South East Guide

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

Búlder, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -0.255930, 150.868622

Summary:

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -25.278125, 152.327888

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -25.713891, 151.048891

Resumen

Granite boulders chaotically strewn across a giant riverbed, between towering orange and grey cliffs interspersed amongst the forested hillside.

Acceso

About 30 minutes south west of Munduberra towards Dalby. Follow google to the carpark and then the path down to the gorge.

Alojamiento

Auburn River National Park camping offers 5 camp sites. Camping is $6 a night per person. Drop toilet and tank water.

Please consider washing your chalk off the boulders at the end of the day, especially at the areas close to the main tourist trails. Use a little water and a soft brush to help reduce our footprint and ensure we can boulder at Auburn for years to come.

Please remove any rubbish if found and practice leave no trace.

Historia

Bouldering was re-discovered here in 2012 by John Newby and Damo. With over 200+ problems established they put together a PDF guide. In 2021 with permission from John the PDF is being interpreted and put online.

Some historical bouldering photos

https://www.flickr.com/photos/48554635@N07/14621774101

https://www.flickr.com/photos/48554635@N07/14722363456/in/photostream/

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -25.006897, 153.358537

restricciones

This is a popular destination on Fraser Island so respect the area and other tourists there and take care when accessing the crag.

Acceso

Indian Head is located at the northern end of 75 Mile Beach and can be accessed from both 75 Mile Beach and Orchid Beach. A 4x4 car will be essential. Getting to the base of the cliff can be achieved by walking (rock hopping) via the north side of the Head, or a rappel. Take extreme caution with tide times and height as well as weather conditions.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -25.634336, 152.033384

descripción

http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/mount-walsh/about.html

Acceso

From carpark follow the tourist track. A brutal walk in, no sugar coating it.

Alojamiento

There is no formal camping area at Mount Walsh National Park. Bush camping is available in remote areas of Mount Walsh National Park. Bush camping is only accessible by walking and no facilities are provided.

Camping permits are required and fees apply.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -25.255060, 151.510239

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -26.550424, 152.756486

descripción

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi and Jinibara.

The Kabi Kabi people of the Sunshine Coast are the coastal or saltwater people and took their name from the pale honey gathered from the eucalypts of the hinterland. The group was made up of a number of smaller tribes including the Nalbo, Kabi, Dallambara and Undanb, inhabiting the region from Elimbah Creek in the south, to Cooloola National Park in the north.

The Jinibara people of the Sunshine Coast are the inland or mountain people and their names means “people of the lawyer vine” (jinni = lawyer vine; bara = people), thus referring to the mountainous nature of their country where the lawyer vine grows. The Jinibara People’s traditional land embraces the Blackall Ranges and the area west of Old Gympie Road. The Jinibara People consist of four sub-groups or clans, being the Dungidau centred on Kilcoy, Villeneuve and Mt Archer area, the Nalbo of the Blackall Range and much of the Glasshouse Mountains area, the Dala between Woodford and the Blackall Range, and the Garumngar of the rolling country between the Brisbane River and Mt Crosby and what today is the southern edge of Brisbane Forest Park.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.674994, 153.115434

Resumen

Great quality boulders for such a little spot with good easy access.

descripción

Alexandra Headland is a headland with a beach located on the Sunshine Coast in South East Queensland. It is in the town of Mooloolaba.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Acceso

An easy walk or drive from the town of Mooloolaba which it is situated in. Parking above in a beach side carpark (at the lookout). 2 minute walk down to the beach via stairs and the boulders are on your left.

Alojamiento

There are many accommodation options at Mooloolaba including everything from camping to luxury resorts.

Ética

Try not to break all the holds like Leandro....

Historia

The crag is within visual range of the wreck of the Ex-HMAS Brisbane. That's history for ya! (except it's underawater so you wont see it unless you go diving!

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.872069, 152.728834

Resumen

Wonderful Creekside bouldering in Bellthorpe National Park.

descripción

Stones in, and around a creek. Should be heaps of potential.

Acceso

Use your GPS to find 'stoney creek day use area,' in Bellthorpe National Park.

From Woodford. Drive west towards kilcoy and turn right at Stony creek Rd. Turn right on Fletcher Rd and follow the signs to the 'Stoney Creek Day Use Area,' carpark.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -26.146781, 152.537764

descripción

Primarily short steep single pitch sandstone climbing. A lot of the information here is from Lee Cujes qurank guide.

Useful Info: Camping at Glastonbury creek is $6.55/night as of 04/12/18, previously there was a 'pay and display' however this is NO LONGER AVAILABLE and you should book online through the terrible QNPWS online booking system at https://qpws.usedirect.com/qpws/. Gympie has food/alcohol/basic camping supplies but no climbing stores.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Brooyar rock shelter holds cultural value to First Nations people as a seasonal hunting location. Significant cultural features are archaeological sites which included stone artefacts, charcoal and bone fragments.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

Acceso

Brooyar is around 20 minutes northwest of Gympie, which is a regional city around 2.5 hours north of Brisbane. The most straightforward access is to take the main highway north from town, take the well signposted turn-off for the Wide Bay Highway (the next town is Kilkivan) then after about 2.85km turn left onto Petersen Road.

Petersen Road turns to dirt after about 1.6km and then begins a meandering path to the crags and camp site. Follow the main road and you should get there fine, the best map of the region shows that the side roads lead to an area labelled 'here be dragons'.

After (very) roughly 2km, you'll come to crest with another well traveled road turn to the right and continuing uphill, follow this to the crags or alternatively going straight ahead takes you towards the wonderful Glastonbury Creek camping area.

If you go straight ahead to the camp ground after about another 1km you'll come to a roughly triangular intersection, turn left for the camp site, straight ahead is an alternative route back to Gympie if you know the way.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.688278, 153.044489

Resumen

Buderim is located centrally on the Sunshine Coast, and has many beautiful green spaces with lovely views.

Ética

Please consider pad placement when bouldering in Buderim aiming not to put pads on flora or fauna.

Clean up after your session. This includes clearing rubbish and washing and brushing holds free of any chalk you use. If chalk spillage occurs please hoard it back into your chalk depository device like a miserly gremlin.

Keep noise and group numbers to a minimum.

Historia

Frey Yule and a few other people are known to have climbed at Buderim Village Park in the past. Other history has been lost though. If you know of any please let us know.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.533318, 153.093676

Resumen

A cluster of sandstone boulders in a stunning location.

descripción

A few boulders on the beach at Coolum. Best to go around low tide if you don't want wet feet. Please don't climb here if it has been wet or raining as it may wreck problems.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Coolum, pronounced Gulum or Kulum in Kabi language has several meanings including; wanting, without, blunt and place of howling winds.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

restricciones

These boulders are fairly open to the public and are on council land. So please keep noise to a mini-mum, clean up after yourself and be respectful.

Acceso

Park at Coolum Beach. From the surf club walk towards south towards Maroochydore along the beach. The boulders are about a 5 minute walk.

Historia

History is unknown. Old Qurank posts mention some people trying the boulders here a bit ago. If you have any information please add it.

Summary:

Escalada en roca y Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.506525, 153.085695

descripción

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

Acceso

Emu Mountain is a 1.5 hour drive north of Brisbane. Access to the walking tracks is from Havana Rd East, Coolum Beach.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -26.154253, 152.567842

Resumen

Close to Brooyar, with similar sandstone features, offering climbs 7m to 12m in height, and plenty of bouldering potential.

descripción

Fishermans Pocket is only 1.5 kms from Brooyar's Gladstonbury Camp Area as the crow flies, however to get there requires a completely different approach as it's on the other side of the Mary River. The same kind of sandstone as Brooyar, and similarly featured. A good option for Gympie locals or those spending a few days at Brooyar and looking for something a little different.

restricciones

Although located in State Forest, the road in (Fishermans Pocket Rd) takes you past a number of private properties and finishes at a dead-end, so you can assume the residents don't get a lot of traffic driving into that area. Please drive with caution and behave respectfully. Be sure not to block any part of the road when parking.

This is a new crag, so loose rock can be expected. Always wear helmets. Do NOT let children sit beneath the cliff as large rocks can be accidentally pulled off the cliff.

Fauna: Suspected dingo feaces have been observed in this area. It might therefore be a good idea to keep pets at home until this can be confirmed.

Acceso

If travelling from Brisbane, take the Bruce Hwy into Gympie and turn left at Pine St. Follow this for about 500 m, past the Nestle factory and the road soon becomes Widgee Crossing Rd. Follow Widgee Crossing Rd for just over 2 kms, then turn right into Fishermans Pocket Rd. Follow this mostly dirt road for approx. 7.5 kms, until you reach the dead end and turn around point. Park off to the eastern side ensuring you don't block the road.

If Travelling from Brooyar, drive to the Bruce Hwy and head south towards Gympie. Turn right into Meadows Ln, follow this to Fishermans Pocket Rd, turn right and follow Fishermans Pocket Rd till it ends.

From the car parking area, walk east down the hill keeping the private property fence line on your left. The hill is a bit steep and the loose leaf matter makes it a bit slippery in places and you may need to negotiate some boulders on the hill. Follow the gully all the way down until you reach the creek bed. Cross the creek (there is a large mossy log that spans the creek bed that you can use as a landmark) and start walking up the hill on the other side of the creek. You'll soon reach the cliff. The walk in takes about 10-15 mins, but the walk out usually takes longer because you have to slog back up the same hill you walked in on.

Historia

Climbing activity began here in 2019, with the first three routes "Soft Shell Crab", "Rock Lobster" and "Yibida Yabida" developed in October that year. In November 2019 "Nibble" and "Silly Salmon" were added. The crag sat dormant for a couple of years until the Naylor brothers climbed the first trad line, "Bring the Tackle Box", in May 2021. There is potential for more climbing routes as well as bouldering. Watch this space.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -26.952531, 152.936658

Resumen

A major, historical and popular climbing destination for south-east Queensland climbers. Something for everyone, from short hard sport climbs to long easy trad adventures and everything in between.

descripción

Four separate volcanic plugs (mountains) located on the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. The online guide is available at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Jinibara.

The Jinibara people of the Sunshine Coast are the inland or mountain people and their names means “people of the lawyer vine” (jinni = lawyer vine; bara = people), thus referring to the mountainous nature of their country where the lawyer vine grows. The Jinibara People’s traditional land embraces the Blackall Ranges and the area west of Old Gympie Road. The Jinibara People consist of four sub-groups or clans, being the Dungidau centred on Kilcoy, Villeneuve and Mt Archer area, the Nalbo of the Blackall Range and much of the Glasshouse Mountains area, the Dala between Woodford and the Blackall Range, and the Garumngar of the rolling country between the Brisbane River and Mt Crosby and what today is the southern edge of Brisbane Forest Park.

The Glass House Mountains area was a special meeting place where many First Nations Peoples gathered for ceremonies and trading. It is considered spiritually significant with many ceremonial and cultural sites still present and protected today. The Glasshouse Mountains hold significant cultural meaning to First Nations people with Mount Tibrogargan, Coonowrin and Mount Beerwah being central in local Dreamtime Legend.

*The Dreaming: https://visitsunshinecoasthinterland.com.au/things-to-do/glass-house-mountains-aboriginal-legend/

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

restricciones

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Acceso

The Glasshouse Mountains are located 70km north of Brisbane CBD (and are now, due to urban sprawl, considered almost an outer suburb!) Drive via the M1 highway, and take the left turn-off to Steve Irwin Way and follow this to town of Glasshouse Mountains. The mountains themselves are clearly visible and are accessed from various different carparks.

Alojamiento

There are no camping areas within Glass House Mountains National Park. Nearby Beerburrum State Forest has a camping area at Coochin Creek. There are also private camping areas on the Glass House Mountains Rd. Rocky Creek scout camp near Landsborough has been recommended as a good cheap place to camp. A range of other holiday accommodation is available in the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

Ética

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Historia

Historically, one of the most important crags in the country. The birthplace of technical climbing in Australia is right here, pre-dating the area becoming a National Park. Ascents are recorded as early as the late 1800s.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.180067, 152.561098

Resumen

A rather large area full of rock. Potential for heaps of bouldering and some sport. Some of the rock is stand out some is trash and the areas might be spread out. Go have a look and a play.

Acceso

Most areas can be driven to directly by a high clearance 4wd. Its probably best just to input the GPS coords and then follow the tracks. Otherwise you can park 2 wheel drive cars either at a large sandy patch after the first turn off from Briere road (1), or follow Briere's road and take a little fork off to the left about 200m before the farm gate (2). GPS coords for both will be linked below.

As usual please do not block any roads/gates. Or enter through the farm gate.

*-26.183029, 152.577402

**-26.179885, 152.575144

For reccied 4wd specs see Oliver Rickford.

Alojamiento

Please do not freedom camp here! There is loads of camping at brooyar and in the Gympie surrounds and it is easily accessible. Freedom camping could very much lead to climbers losing access to this area.

Historia

Many parties have passed through the area and have played on or developed various parts of Kings over the years. However, for several reasons not much of the history has been written down. If you know of any history please feel free to share or rewrite as you see fit.

Summary:

Mayormente Psicobloc (deep water solo)

Lat / Long: -26.673164, 152.865438

descripción

Lots of boulders, mostly mossy and chossy but some great problems on solid rock and Deep water solo options in the main pool at Kondalilla and in the Narrows of the Obi Obi creek below Baroon dam.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Kondalilla means rushing water.

Kondalilla holds cultural value to First Nations people as it was used as a gathering site during the Bunya Festival.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

Acceso

Walk in from Kondalilla National Park main track to top pool. Narrows routes descend from lower Baroon dam to the creek and rock hop down.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -26.563588, 153.085978

Resumen

Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory

descripción

There are only a small number of crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, Sunshine Coast climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

The local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

First Nations Information***

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Coolum, pronounced Gulum or Kulum in Kabi language has several meanings including; wanting, without, blunt and place of howling winds. It holds significant cultural meaning to First Nations people being central in local Dreamtime Legends* and the caves or hollows were used to store relics. Cultural features nearby include a bora ring site and an ochre quarry.

*The Dreaming: https://heritage.sunshinecoast.qld.gov.au/Places/Town-Histories/Black-Swan-Park/Local-Indigenous-Heritage

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

restricciones

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
No routes up though the area where the falcons are
Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.
The bolting is mostly on Glue in with Epoxy glue. Please consult the locals before you go trigger happy on you new link up project

Acceso

One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Alojamiento

Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony. www.surfairmarcoola.com.au.

Ética

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

Historia

This section is to be part of the Coolum Cave book being produce by the Radest Productions crew.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -26.372011, 152.838090

descripción

Adventurous Trad, Aid and Sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch routes. Fixed hangers and U-bolts lead the way on long routes.

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and locking carabiners. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring insect repellent and sunscreen.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

The area holds high importance to First Nations people with many sites of cultural importance across the region including artefact scatters, scarred trees and burial sites.

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

Acceso

The drive (2 hours from Brisbane)

Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park (-26.367974, 152.844845), the same parking as for the popular track to the summit.

The Walk (30minutes)

• Cross the road, and walk down the fire road to the left of the "hikers track". Go over the gate on the fire road to a junction, then go left.

• At the next track junction, follow the signs to Tuchekoi Circuit. Then turn right at the next junction (-26.372496, 152.844309).

• Walk on the fire road until you reach a large rocky run-off area on right, avoid going into private property by veering right and uphill following the barbed wire fence.

• The narrow and steep track will lead to Adventure time wall, and eventually Main Wall.

Historia

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.551848, 152.993856

Resumen

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls.

descripción

Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are sportroutes while some are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Ninderry is derived from two words in Kabi language - nyindur/durree, meaning place of scrub leeches. It holds significant cultural meaning to First Nations people being central in local Dreamtime* and through local song lines networks. Cultural features include a bora ring site.

*The Dreaming: https://heritage.sunshinecoast.qld.gov.au/Places/Town-Histories/Black-Swan-Park/Local-Indigenous-Heritage

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

restricciones

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Acceso

Approach is from the Ocean Vista Drive cul-de-sac. Please car pool (lots of parking at the highway turnoff) and avoid parking at the end of the street. There’s a few spaces back uphill adjacent the steep embankment which avoids parking directly in front of a residence. Locate the track with the locked gate (locked for vehicles - foot traffic O.K) at the end of the cul-de-sac. Follow this for roughly 15mins gently uphill through some long grass and under the canopy of the trees. 30m beyond the big boulder veer L over log. Stay on the main, worn walking track until you reach the cliffs, you should be at the Enter the Ninja arete.

Ética

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -26.389602, 152.974871

descripción

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is a 265m high volcanic plug just inland from Noosa on Queensland's Sunshine Coast. The climbs on offer here are fun, well-protected sport routes of moderate grade, with the odd trad or aid route. The cliff varies in height dramatically along its length so climbs vary from short single pitch to multipitches up to 5 pitches long.

Almost all bolts at Mt Tinbeerwah are carrot bolts (BRs in the descriptions) so bring plenty of bolt plates. A few climbs have fixed hangers (FHs) or u-bolts. There are large numbered rings along the top of the 'Main Wall' as well as double bolt belays (DBBs) for rapping and belaying.

There are two areas to climb at 'Mt Tinbeerwah': the 'Main Wall' and the much smaller 'Lower Wall'. Both walls face west, meaning it's too hot to climb here on summer afternoons. Helmets are advisable, as much for the things people throw off the lookout as for loose rocks.

J.J. O'Brien's Mt Tinbeerwah Climbing Guide contains some interesting history and can be found at https://web.archive.org/web/20170729073809/http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_Tinbeerwah.pdf

restricciones

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is within the Tewantin National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Acceso

'Tinbeerwah' is about 140 km, or one hour forty-five minutes drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Cooroy turnoff 120km from Brisbane. Drive through Cooroy, following signs to Noosa Heads to end up on the Cooroy-Noosa Rd. Follow this for about 8km before turning left into Tinbeerwah Rd, well marked with signs for the scenic lookout. Follow this road, which is dirt at times, for about 3km to the carpark at the top of 'Mt Tinbeerwah'.

View driving map

Alojamiento

There are no camping areas within the Tewantin National Park. There is camping in a number of nearby parks and forests including Great Sandy National Park. A range of private camping and other holiday accommodation is available in Noosa and the rest of the Sunshine Coast.

For more information see these tourist information links.

Summary:

Búlder, Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -26.388861, 153.107816

descripción

Climbing in Noosa started in late 88 with the discovery of Cook's County and the Devils 'Cauldron'. Trad climbing is done in these two areas as bolts are not needed. The Boiling Pot is a great place for bouldering with easy to difficult problems. No routes have been climbed here. 'Granite Bay' has some nice looking boulders just waiting to be climbed with problems from V0 to V6+.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.124390, 152.329109

Resumen

Big ol field with some rock

descripción

Big ol field with some rock. There might be some more rock following the creek up, but is yet to be explored.

The rock is believed to be serpentine, and has some interesting texture and formations for the South East Queensland area.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.540610, 153.099059

descripción

Potential for some easy bouldering around the yaroomba Headland.

Acceso

From the Sunshine Motorway take the turn off at the round about to enter Coolum beach. When you hit the lights at the t-intersection turn right and follow the road along to Pt. Arkwright.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.679786, 153.138457

descripción

Bouldering on the headland by the ocean. Bellissimo!

Still a lot of potential. If you have an addition please add it.

Tide dependent. Best to go at low tide.

Please be aware that people have been injured when rock has come loose while they have been climbing on the headlands before. Try to stay within a comfortable fall zone on solid rock if you are climbing here. We care about you, so try not to get hurt.

Crag is listed left to right looking at the wall. If adding climbs please order it in this fashion.

restricciones

Point Cartwright is a very popular walking track so be mindful of those around you, and how your actions may affect the perceptions of the climbing community as a whole. Please limit your use of chalk, clean up after yourselves, be mindful of your noise levels and whatever you do don't fall on someone else's dog.

Acceso

Park at the Point Cartwright carpark, and walk down the stairs to the headland.

Alojamiento

The Sunshine Coast is a tourist hot spot. Use some google-fu and you'll find some form of accommodation.

Historia

No known history. If anybody has any info please let us know.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: -26.499602, 152.894076

descripción

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer, as well as a small number of nice climbs on good rock.

restricciones

Located in Mapleton National Park. Climbing and abseiling are allowed here and anchor rings have been provided at various points along the top to facilitate this.

Acceso

'Point Glorious' is in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. To get there, drive through the township of Yandina. Follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes before taking Buckby Rd to the right, then follow the "Point Glorious" signs. About 15 minutes is on dirt road with the last section signed as "high clearance 4WD recommended". Ignore this, the road is fine for 2WDs.

The climbs are under the lookout. Most are accessed via a signposted track heading off the road to the left just as you're arriving at the carpark.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -26.575566, 152.784766

descripción

Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

Acceso

Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt) and follow this for 1.8km until you approach the park gate/entrance.

To park for climbing, stop at the large red gum just outside the park gate/entrance. Park in the small clearing on your right.

The walk should take around 25-30 minutes if you’re on the right track. Just inside the park entrance turn right and follow the track which crosses the stony creek-bed and leads to a fork at a hiker sign. Turn right along the 4WD road (despite the arrow pointing left) and continue adjacent the creek then veer up and around to the left. After 400-500 metres a faint trail breaks off to the right at a cut log (and possibly a cairn), follow this uphill.

This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track to the right (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.

Alojamiento

The Gheerulla camping area is about 500m through the entrance/gate, accessed via Sam Kelly Road (dirt).

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.801064, 153.150420

Resumen

Sandstone features at the beach.

Acceso

Park at Shelly Beach carpark and walk along the beach till you reach the cave.

Historia

Unknown

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -26.548141, 152.452281

descripción

Baiyambora gorge, 1hr west of Imbil on a 4x4 track or 30 minutes from Jimna, is about 1.2 Km in lenght over a 180m difference from the bottom pools to the top plunge waterfall and sits between a Scenic Reserve and Wratten National Park.

The bottom part can be accesses by either:

A trail (-26.543443, 152.470464). Park the car on Bella Creek Rd and descent via this trail to the creek (1.4 Km). Hike upstream for further 1 Km until the gorge is reached.
Park the car in a small car park (-26.544529, 152.445033) and find the beginning of a faint track nearby heading south-easterly to a steep valley. Descend this for 200 m or so until the creek bed is reached. Walk right for few hundred metres until you arrive at the canyon's entrance. Once on the top a short walk in a north easterly direction through tick scrub and lantana (keep out and right of private property) will lead back to the car (1.3Km).

The top above Yabba Falls can be accesses by:

Heading from Kingham Rd, follow Bella Creek Rd until you enter state forest. Park just after the state forest gate entrance. Follow the fence on the state forest side until you get to Annette Cascades. Following the Annette cascades down stream will place you at the top of Yabba falls. Thick lantana should be expected.

restricciones

Do not enter the Old Yabba Farm just before Annette cascades. Access to the Annette Cascades should be done on the state forest side of the fence.

Alojamiento

Camping: Peach Tree Camping area near Jimna (30Km from gorge) or Borumba Dam Camping Grounds (23Km away on a 4x4 track) near Imbil.

Ética

Please ensure you leave no trace of your visit and keep your climbing or canyoning activity low key. This is a pristine place that had a very little visiting from humans and should be meticulously kept in its state.

Remember to take all rubbish with you and avoid markings such taping the trees or graffiti on the rock, in our modern days, GPS and maps will give you the proper informations about navigation without creating visual pollution.

The area should be kept strictly as trad and care should be taken when using natural features as belays or rapping point. A couple of steel rapping sets exist for abseiling purpose at the top of the upper plunge and just before the bottom waterfall: they are useless for climbing.

Summary:

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.570185, 152.924767

Resumen

A little Yandina local swimming hole with quick and convenient access with potential for new boulders and a few deep water solos.

restricciones

Warning signs are present regarding water with submerged obstacles and strong currents. Please respect that people have passed swimming at this spot in the past and to always check landing and water before climbing, and NEVER swimming or climbing new water after large rain events.

Up the river is the back of Wappa Dam, please respect the wall and not try climbing it.

Further down the river exists private property. Haven't talked to land owners yet to discover if their land extends to the water, or ends before it. Either way please respect them if you are exploring, as you represent the whole climbing community when out and about.

Acceso

Carpark is located at the end of Pump Station Road off Wappa Falls Road. Please be mindful of the small carpark and the potential of small children and kids on bikes on the road.

From the carpark you can see the main swimming hole.

Alojamiento

Your preferred search engine will recommend many hinterland and Sunshine Coast accommodation options.

Ética

A lot of potential for new boulders up and down the creek and water holes. Please respect private properties down the river and the dam wall further up river.

Remember your actions reflect on the whole climbing community so please limit chalk, be mindful of noise and language (many small kids and families do swim here) and ensuring we leave the places tidier than we often find them.

Historia

No known history, however locals and kids have been scrabbling over the rocks around the water hole for years. If any history is known, please share.

descripción

http://www.adventureempire.com.au

2/2 Park Place, Caloundra, Queensland,

Resumen

Sunshine Coast's bouldest indoor bouldering facility.

descripción

More info here: https://bouldmove.com.au/

Summary:

Todo Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: -26.727623, 153.120675

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.547684, 152.451114

Resumen

Yabba creek is a collection of freestanding boulders scattered in a relatively remote creek cut deep between steep sided ridges.

descripción

Yabba Creek is a developing bouldering area consisting of scattered boulders in a large creek bed. The scope of development leans towards steep bouldering on mostly bullet hard rock.

The quality of the problems seem to congregate in the red. A couple double digits classics to be done.

Acceso

Parking is at 26°32'39.7"S 152°26'43.0"E on a bend on the gravel Bella Creek road just after a cattle grid (driving east). Access is dependent on your approach.

From Brisbane 2wd access is possible by getting to Kilcoy. Drive 1hour north from Kilcoy on the Kilcoy-Murgon road to Kingaham rd. The road is sealed as far as Peach Trees camping area (30min), then wide gravel road for 15min with a final 15min on a narrow but good track to the parking. Be careful along here as there will often be touring bikes or 4wd's coming the other way.
From Sunshine coast. 4wd access is via a 45min drive over Mt buggery from Imbil. There is a couple of small creek crossings and a couple of steep climbs but is considered an easy 4wd road. Otherwise, Sunshine coast climbers will need to head south via Kilcoy.

Alojamiento

There is excellent camping at Peach Trees camping area, although this is still about 30min from the parking spot. Book online on the QPWS website.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Resumen

Sandstone boulders

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -26.592757, 152.887941

Resumen

Beautiful spot. Lots of potential. Come and play.

Acceso

Park at the end of Kureelpa Falls Rd (gravel road). Follow the fire trail until you reach the stream. Cross it on the stepping stones, then head downstream on the obvious track until you join a larger opening. Now, with the gorge ahead of you, turn left down the steep hill - Although there is no official track down the hill, you can see where people have been walking. At the bottom of the hill go right, towards the water, and you'll arrive at your destination.

Summary:

Búlder, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -27.397993, 153.132716

descripción

'Brisbane' is the third largest city in 'Australia' and capital of the state of 'Queensland'. It's situated in the state's subtropical southeast. Climbing in the city essentially means one thing: 'Kangaroo Point'. An ex-quarry in a riverside park right in the city centre, it's some of the most easily accessible rockclimbing in the world.

Aside from 'KP', Brisbane has some reasonable bouldering at 'Toohey Forest' and 'White Rock', as well as a number of climbing gyms, such as 'Urban Climb'. Heading out of the city, there are plenty of crags within an hour or two's drive, including classics like 'Frog Buttress' and the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.442759, 152.964944

descripción

A patch of non-scenic bushland with scattered boulders of fine Brisbane granite

Acceso

Park at Bennett Rd near the bike track (Royal Pde). 10th Hole Boulders are about 50m along the bike track on right. Access main reserve by turning left past start of bike track, past bar gate, and following fire trail left and up. On right there will be several tracks leading up; take the obvious one behind a big log and follow MTB tracks or bush bash uphill until boulders are encountered. The lower boulders aren't located yet; but may be found as you proceed up the hill. Further up the hill, another fire trail leads E-W across the reserve. The upper boulders Lil Cap and Hobotown are the biggest and densest areas. Lil Cap is found perched above the upper fire trail, and Hobotown a bit further up from there. Basic map can be found in photos. Park in red area. Blue is approximate route up to Lil Cap. The Military land is well fenced so don't worry about wandering onto this.

Historia

Home to hobos, local kids, mountain bikers, and paintballers, for some time this reserve contains blocs that got their first apparent climbing in 2014. The army built a road through in late 2015.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.310212, 152.715267

Resumen

A small collection of creek rock gems, in one of many scenic locations in D'Aguilar national park. Current routes generally trend towards the more difficult side with a fun variety of styles.

descripción

A scenic creek in the heart of mount glorious with many waterholes and unique cave formations. Unfortunately water rests under many seemingly quality caves/walls.

Acceso

Northbrook Gorges is 50km or about an hour drive from Brisbane CBD. Travelling from Brisbane stay straight through the roundabout at Samford and follow the valley until you reach the T junction. Turn right to continue upwards on Mount Glorious until arrival at carpark (coordinates below)

Park in the centre of the hairpin turn at -27.3075939, 152.7138632, from the car park cross the road and go behind the guard rail, follow it around until you see an obvious trail splitting off left. Follow trail down until you reach the creek, from here turn left and walk a couple minutes until you reach the main wall.

Alojamiento

There are some camping locations spread around D'Aguilar National Park

Ética

Northbrook Gorges is a very popular destination in D’Aguilar for hikers explorers etc. The area around the main wall is the only feasible way through this section of river on foot. Turning parts of the main path into a landing zone is riskier to access, physically to boulderer & hiker. Just be mindful and respectful of others passing through as we want to avoid conflict and keep this area open well into the future

Summary:

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.320799, 152.784055

Resumen

A popular collection of rainforest boulders and waterholes found on the outskirts of Brisbane. Climbs cover beginner to expert grades and offer a fun variety of features.

descripción

'Cedar Creek' winds its way through the rainforest on the flanks of Mt Glorious, about half an hour north west of 'Brisbane'. Quite often the small rocks forming the creek bed are big enough to boulder, with other larger formations being accessible for most of the year. The real attraction though is the creek itself which is one of few natural swimming spots in Brisbane, making this a favourite summer spot among climbers and non-climbers alike. The main waterfall and the large pool below it are particularly popular.

restricciones

Rainfall/Flooding/Raised Water Levels

'Cedar Creek' is prone to flash flooding after heavy rainfall and general flooding or regular high water levels during/after rainfall which significantly impacts access to boulders and areas.

Check local community pages if unsure.

Private Property

Toward the end of Cedar Creek Rd are several private properties inaccessible to the public. Ensure no gates are passed (even if open).

Acceso

'Cedar Creek' is about 35km or 30-40 minutes drive northwest of Brisbane. From the city, drive along Kelvin Grove Rd, then Enoggera Rd, then Samford Rd. About 20km from the city you'll arrive in Samford Village. Turn right at the roundabout and continue north along Mount Samson Rd. After about 6km, turn left onto Cedar Creek Rd. Drive about 9km to where the road ends and park.

View driving map on Google Maps

From the carpark, the route least-likely-to-piss-off-the-local-landowners is following the creek upstream. After 10 minutes or so you'll start to see a few boulders tall & steep enough to be bouldered. These scattered boulders form the 'Below the Waterfall' area. The waterfall itself is about 15 minutes from the carpark. Just above the waterfall is the 'Graffiti Cave'. Just upstream of the cave is the confluence with the 'Side creek' on the left, or continue up the main creek for about 5 minutes to the 'Titanic Area' whose boulders are found on the left bank (facing upstream).

Alojamiento

There's camping in the D'Aguilar National Park but not at 'Cedar Creek'. The Cedar Creek Falls Retreat offers accommodation nearby, but it is a very comfortable day trip, or even half day trip, from Brisbane.

Ética

'Cedar Creek' has been in the news due to its popularity with the public; namely rubbish and conflicts with landowners. As climbers we must set an example for ourselves:

Respect the landowners
Take your rubbish (as always)
Bring containers for removing public rubbish if you can
Do not contribute to the graffiti
Bring poo-bags for your crag pup

Historia

Unfortunately the history of this cool little place is very undocumented, and the reality is that this is more of a swimming hole for teenagers than boulderers. Info has been gleaned from an old PDF on Qurank and the forums there, and general Googling. If you know something not here, please add it.

If you think you did an FA, you probably didn't. Please add the climb here and tick it but leave the FA empty unless you're really sure you were the first (eg you pulled 2m of lantana off the rock first)
Problem names - As the FA for most problems is lost in time, many names are lost. Where names are know they are entered, but where they are unknown a descriptive name is given like 'Left arete' or very evocative of the problem like 'The Cauldron'.

Please, if you know data that is missing please fill it in!

Resumen

The best roof cracks Brisbane has to offer

Acceso

Park along Addison street, follow the bike path south until it passes underneath an overpass.

Historia

Established early 2022 after a worldwide interest in roof cracks spurred by the Wide Boys. Earlier history unknown.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: -27.436782, 153.030375

Resumen

Convenient if you live nearby and need to lay hand to rock

descripción

A tuff retaining wall behind Freedom furniture off Newmarket/Bowen Bridge roads. There are some poorly bolted (one with an aluminium hanger!) small routes and a few ok looking natural lines. While the climbing is actually pretty good in places, the location is a big drawback and any bolts are not to be trusted.

restricciones

Behind a shopping centre, above a driveway. Owners/security staff (if any) may not be psyched to see climbers. Watch out for cars and trucks. Only bother if it's after hours to avoid problems.

Acceso

Drive to Freedom furniture, catch a train to Windsor station, or rock up anyway you can

Ética

Chipping seemed to be the norm here back in the day. No longer is that acceptable anywhere. It may be that stabilisation works will one day cover most of the rock here; some areas have already been sprayed with shotcrete recently

Historia

Someone desperate for FA's long ago bolted and chipped a bit of rock. Some information was available online years ago, so if anyone still has any info, do share.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -27.506805, 152.973620

Resumen

Buildering on a stone masonry bridge abutment

descripción

Old bolts, old scary looking hangers, chossy top out to a sloping ledge encrusted in pigeon droppings and train brake pad soot. Most of the ground has been concreted below the climbs making falls just that little bit extra daunting. Make sure when topping out you lay flat under the tracks on the sandstone ledge and wait for a train to rocket past about 1m from your head for the full experience.

restricciones

The bridge is presumedly owned by the Brisbane City Council and is listed on the Queensland Heritage Register.

Acceso

These climbs are on the southern abutment of the Albert Bridge, one of four bridges crossing the Brisbane River between the suburbs of Indooroopilly and Chelmer. About 10 minutes southwest of Brisbane's city centre and accessed via Wharf St, Chelmer. For public transport information see TransLink.

Ética

Please don't bolt it, leave chalk marks on the wall or attract any attention to yourself. Give way to pedestrians and cyclists, obey all directions from authorities. If asked to leave, politely oblige and leave immediately. Climbing at this crag can lead to being charged with 'Unauthorised High Risk Activity', which involves a court appearance, hefty fines and an unrecorded conviction. Play it smart!

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -27.478170, 153.034115

Resumen

Urban crag par excellence!

descripción

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya!

Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy.

The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right.

Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers.

The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun.

It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

restricciones

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Acceso

The cliffs are located right beside the Brisbane River, just below River Terrace in the inner city suburb of Kangaroo Point.

The riverside bikepath runs right past the base of the cliffs and there's a CityCycle station too.

The nearest train station is South Bank, about 10 minutes walk south. The nearest bus stop is over on Main St near the River Terrace intersection. The nearest CityCat ferry stops are South Bank 1 & 2 and QUT, both about 15 minutes walk south along the river. The free CityHopper ferry stops at the Maritime Museum (5-10 minutes walk south) and Thornton St (5-10 minutes north). For further public transport information see TransLink.

When it's not busy (during business hours) you can easily park at the base of the cliff. Failing that you can usually find a park up top on River Terrace.

Alojamiento

While it's tempting to park a campervan in the bottom carpark and live the ultimate urban dirtbag life, the BCC and the police are strict about no overnight camping here. There's plenty of accommodation options around Brisbane, including backpackers for those on a budget.

Ética

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
Don't ever chip holds.
Don't paint on any new initials.
Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.630689, 153.075936

descripción

Nice sandstone playground in a bushland setting. Stone is generally rough, can be quite dirty in places so clean well. Plenty to explore. Some parts great for kids

Acceso

From Brisbane city drive south to Woodridge or Stratton. Once in Compton road, turn down Acacia Road. About 1km down on the right is a forestry estate with gates named Karawatha Forest. Drive in and park- walk in past the “Discovery Centre” and across to the main entrance to follow Rocks Track. Can't miss em!

Historia

Much of the decent easier stuff done in 2014-15. Prior history unknown.

Summary:

Búlder, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -27.423814, 152.940038

Resumen

The most driven-past and least known crag in Brisbane. Stacks of granite above Settlement Rd. Fun to play around here, but it's unknown how solid anything is. Check every block!

descripción

Stacks of granite boulders. Many climbs here are height dependant; you can either reach the next feature or you're smearing on blank granite. Feel free to suggest what the grade felt like for you. The stone is some of the finest granite you'll climb on, but area is disjointed with lots of loose blocks and steep ground. Take extreme care here! Several loose looking blocks represent potential hazards to climbers and drivers below.

restricciones

Stay off the road past the gate. The bush on the right side is public land still, stick to it.

Acceso

Park at the gate on Cobalt st. Follow the fire trail left and up, slog uphill about 20 minutes. When you meet a junction, head left and up again, for another few minutes. At the gate, head right into the bush along faint track. Lizard Lane is downhill from here. Kindy Wall is about 200m along The ridge past the gate. The dirt road behind the gate is private land as signed. Stick to the bush on the right side of the road to stay on public land. The entrance on Levitt Rd leads to a sealed track, so may represent and easier if longer walk in. Maybe someday there will be a way up from Settlement Rd, which would be much quicker...

Ética

There are many lithopyhtic (rock clinging) losenge orchids growing here. Climb around them, and don't damage or remove.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.515233, 152.856366

descripción

Quartzite boulders and cliffbands

restricciones

As this is a bushy area, be mindful of snakes and lace monitors that call the bush there home. Use caution while moving off the tracks and into the bush.

Acceso

Parking on Mill Rd entrance to Moggill conservation area. Start down track for 2 minuets until the track forks. Trend right and cross a small creek. Slug it up the hill for 30ish minuets. At this point there is a prominent fork in the track. Head right all the way to the top of the hill for Power Block boulders or head left for 5 min and bush bash up the hill to get to High Voltage block. Ether way you go can access the other area by crossing under the power lines and bush bashing for a bit. See guide: https://drive.google.com/file/d/16fz94WQdipYxlCIh5bF-TD-o_1GuWzrG/view?usp=drivesdk

Ética

Avoid the tongue orchards that grow on the boulders.

Historia

First recorded climbing done here by Matt Pelekanos in 2014

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.030449, 153.460595

descripción

Moreton Island is an inhabited island located in Moreton Bay in the Pacific Ocean.

Acceso

Access is by private boat or ferry.

Alojamiento

There are many accommodation options on the island, from camping to luxury resorts.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.814558, 153.142810

descripción

PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES BEFORE BOULDERING HERE!!

Loads of rocks and boulders in the whole conservation park, most rocks in the area are fairly poor quality as far as bouldering goes, until you dig a little deeper and discover some of the excellent bouldering this area has to offer. Plenty more boulders to come as there is still a huge amount of un-sent boulders and potentially undiscovered areas.

restricciones

As popularity seems to be growing for the area, it should be noted that there is private property right in the middle of the conservation park. Before stumbling around the bush into private property, please look at a map with the property lines. If you can't find/Navigate a map, ask someone who knows. DO NOT, under any circumstances, go into the private property unless you have permission from the landowners. Unfortunately, the fence lines have seen better days and have fallen over in many places, so if you stick to the established areas, you will be fine.

UPDATE 20/8/2023

It’s now no secret that there is some incredible looking boulders in the private land, Corey Batten has been in touch with the landowners to request access to their property, and they have as kindly as possible denied the request, even if it’s just a meter over their property lines. Their reasons for the denial of access are:

Liability Concerns: Granting permission for access could expose the landowners to potential lawsuits if anyone gets injured while on their land.

Safety and Privacy: The Yarrabilba estate development has extended into the conservation parks, leading to an increase in people coming close to their homes. This situation has become unsettling for them, and they believe that allowing climbers might encourage others to think they have a right to access the land as well.

Personal Protection: The area contains wild pigs and dogs, prompting the landowners to have the right to bear arms on their property for protection. Allowing random access to their land could potentially interfere with their licensing for this protection.

the landowners fully recognise that the fences need urgent repair due to the sudden popularity of the area, they are working with park rangers to address this issue.

The land owners are kind people who deserve to live their life in peace, If you want any further information please contact Corey Batten.

Acceso

Park on Quinzeh Creek Rd at the wickham peak walking track entrance. Alternatively park roughly 300m further downhill along Quinzeh Creek Rd (-27.807339, 153.146973) for quicker access for most boulders/sectors

Historia

The first known discovery of this area was by Nate Foster in the early 2000's and he spent some time climbing undocumented around the area with Simon Moses, Vikki Moses and Co. The original Logan pine forest cave was the only documented area for many years and little information was known of the area, perhaps people have been climbing here for years without documenting, who knows? In late 2018 a tip off from Benji Bartholomew about potential boulders in this area hit the right ears. A small crew consisting mostly of Corey Batten, Sam Bowman and Benji Bartholomew with scouting help from Zac Supertramp set off to establish the area. Although there was a lot of trash boulders found at first, they discovered some diamonds in the rough.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.086044, 152.829487

Resumen

Bouldering in development in the heart of Caboolture.

Boulder locations might not be 100% accurate as gps photo pins were playing up due to lack of reception. Please add or correct any inaccuracies if they are found

descripción

Park at Rocksberg Heritage Park in the dedicated parking. Walk down to the creek ald follow it upstream rock hopping from side to side following the path of least Resistance. The first signs of small to medium boulders is about 30 mins walk in.

Very little to no reception the further upstream you venture. Take a first aid kit and let other know where you are going.

All projects are open unless stated otherwise. Please update the details if you send one, history is important and we don't want it lost.

This is a special place, please give it the respect it deserves. Keep group numbers to a minimum and clean up after each session.

restricciones

Creeek be public land. Private property to the left, please stick to the creek.

Acceso

An hour and a half walk in to the largest blocs.

Ética

Stick to the creek as its public land. Brush and clean chalk off boulders when finished climbing to minimise environmental impact.

Historia

On a fine winters day in August 2021, Tsev and Oli ventured out on a bloc hunt. The scouting mission lead us upstream rock hoppin for an hour or so with endless blocs everywhere. We were in heaven. Mission successful.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.543661, 152.960621

Resumen

A few worthwhile boulders at the top of the hill overlooking Rocks Riverside Park

descripción

Sandstone boulders at the Seventeen Mile Rocks Regional Riverside Park overlooking the Brisbane River and Rocks Riverside Park.

restricciones

Some areas have been closed for revegetation for a few months now, please keep in mind and try not to create new highways.

Acceso

Best access is parking at Jennifer St dead end and walking up one of the thin trails hugging the hill's edge. It's much more discrete than walking through Rocks Riverside Park with a boulder matt.

Alojamiento

Don't stay here overnight unless you're a destitute itinerant. Toilets are at the base of the hill by the kids playground.

Ética

It's probably best not to climb here immediately after heavy rain in order to avoid tearing the holds that are decent. Even when it is dry these boulders can be chossy. Try not to pick boulders that contain a layer of loose sedimentary gravel and check that the Sandstone flakes are not going to tear off before committing. Please note sandstone that is bomber when dry can fail if it is wet. Choose your timings to avoid damaging the rock.

Historia

This area was owned by Queensland Cement and Limestone Company in the early to mid 1900's. The site was a good source of sand, fresh water and gravel. The company imported coral from Morton Bay to be refined as lime.

In 2000-ish the area was repourposed as a park including the construction of the Rocks Riverside Park which has notable features such as walking trails, gazebos, a children's playground (equipt with a sweet octhedral climbing thingy that's prolly better bouldering than any of the natural boulders in the area), a community garden and historical reminants.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.411020, 152.999468

Resumen

A few climbable outcrops of quartzite. Not much, but if you're in the area go for it.

descripción

A small boulder area. An easy cliff and near Longland St, Stafford, and an outcrop on the South end of the reserve with a bit more interesting climbing.

Acceso

Park at Longland St near the fence. Through the gate and down from the street about 50m you'll find the easy walls. To find the other bloc follow the track down and head left for about five minutes. It's on the hill above the walking track, with a faint track heading up past it

Historia

No apparent climbing before 2014.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.724118, 152.886481

Resumen

Lots of potential for development and FAs on sandstone boulders

descripción

There are many isolated fields of sandstone boulders scattered throughout the forest, similar to White Rock and Toohey's.

There is is probably more potential here than White Rock and Toohey's put together but the long walk-ins have made development slow and sporadic.

The rock quality varies from crumbly sand castles to font-like. The best rock tends to be on top of the ridges deep in the forest. The bad rock is generally down in the valleys.

restricciones

The forest is Ipswich and Logan council reserve and has free access.

The areas deep in the forest are remote and have limited mobile reception. There is a maze of fire and logging trails throughout the forest and it is very easy to get lost. Always carry a GPS.

If you get hurt, lost or bitten by a snake rescue will be difficult and help will take a long time to arrive.

Similarly to White Rock, a rare plant, the Ruffled Plectranthus (Plectranthus habrophyllus), can be found growing on top of rocks here. Please don't disturb these. Check it out here: http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Acceso

Parking locations vary depending on the area being visited. Refer to the page for the area you wish to visit for specific information regarding the approach. However in general:

Sandcastle Ridge and The Pillars are best approached from The Paperbark Flats picnic area in White Rock
The Dragon Spine, Serpents Head and Balancing Rock are best approached from Springfield
The Eastern areas are best approached from the Eastern edge of the park.

Ética

As for any bouldering area - don't chip. As this a new area, lots of cleaning will be required and loose flakes are inevitable - take care!

Please don't climb after heavy rain, the sandstone will be brittle and break.

Historia

This full history of climbing in Spring Mountain is uncertain at this point.

The following is a selection of what is currently known.

According the Glen Eaton, he and others explored and established climbs in the northern areas such as Balancing Rock, The Pillars and Sandcastle Ridge circa 2007/08. They knew the areas by different names such as "Bouderland" (balancing rock) and "The Elephants Graveyard" (Sandcastle Ridge).

Benji Bartholomew began developing the eastern areas such as the Voltage boulders in 2015 (although it is noted that the area would have been known to walkers and probably other climbers for many years before that). Matt Pelekanos also established climbs in the eastern areas around this time.

In 2021 first Aidan John, Jack Mullaly and other made separate visits to the northern areas and began establishing climbs.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.624402, 153.142509

Resumen

Not as sharp as Tooheys, but same rock type (I think, but I'm no geologist!) 3-4m high. Plenty of routes to be developed still and some boulders not yet on record still in the park to be sussed out.

descripción

Only two areas have been documented here but there is lots of rock that when cleaned, provided some great problems at lower grades.

restricciones

None, This park is an old reclaimed quarry site and has been excellently re-claimed by Logan council

Acceso

well maintained paths throughout the park that provide no more than a minute bush walking off the path to access the boulders.

Alojamiento

N/A

Ética

Be aware this is a multi-purpose community recreation area like Toohey Forest. Be respectful of other park users and try to minimise chalk left behind on boulders after session (TAKE A BRUSH). Ideally use a boars hair or similar brush on this rock, nylon or steel brushes will accelerate erosion here.

Historia

This park used to be a quarry and has been re-claimed by the Logan city council and made into a beautiful green space amongst the residential areas of this region. As far as I am aware, bouldering here is a fairly new addition to the park so lets keep it respectful and prevent any community backlash they could occur to prevent climbing in this residential park.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.447585, 152.975459

Resumen

Bit of climbable hornfels near the scout den at St John's Wood.

restricciones

The park is scout land - the boulder is the boundary of council land. Keep a low profile and don't use the land when the scouts are around - they aren't against climbing but its best to be low profile.

Acceso

Follow the bike track in from Waterworks rd corner with Gresham st. It's across the park

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.154044, 152.823818

descripción

Terror's Creek has a large and fairly confused history. It seems as though many of QLD's strong climbers of the past have been through this area over the years. A combination of broken holds and blurry memories however have rendered a lot of the past descriptions pretty inaccurate. This is an attempt to get this crag up to date for future crushers.

The rock consists of 'Greenstone', (metamorphosed basalt), and is very resistant to rain damage.

Acceso

There is parking for one to four (maybe 5small) cars behind the guard rail. Bear in mind however first in will be stuck until second in moves their vehicle and so on down the line of parked cars).

Parking is 5.5km from the Mt Mee Rd turn off from Dayboro. Turn in behind the "Terrors Creek - George Juffs Bridge" sign. Be careful pulling back onto Mt Mee Road as both corners are quite blind and vehicles are traveling at speed up and down this road.

From the parking, follow the vague track down to the boulders in the creek. Walk along the boulders for a couple of minutes until you reach a steepish section. Go down this, there will be a large boulder on your right. This is the back of the Main Boulder. Walk around the end of this boulder and you will see the Main Area.

If you scramble down the creek from the main boulder you will find the "easy" slabs of the lower tier.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.387787, 152.786343

Resumen

Boulders in a beautiful and steep creek adjacent to a national park.

descripción

A collection of boulders situated in a beautiful and steep creek. Beware of slippery rock. About 200m downstream of the parking at the Goat Track the area concludes in an all but impassable Waterfall. Take care and watch for snakes.

restricciones

The creek itself is public land but the adjacent land is private. Don't go off the creek to bypass any obstacles!

Inaccessible in pretty much any amount of rain, flash floods happen here often.

Acceso

Park in one of the few carparks near the junction of Mt Nebo Road and the goat track (goat track is a one way ascent suitable for 2wd). From here you have two options. Option 1 is to enter the creek just downstream of the Goat Track crossing and make your way down the creek. Beware that in the first 100m of creek (without tree cover) the slab seeps water even in dry conditions (and is covered in hard to see lichen). Falls are common. Alternatively walk a short distance down the Goat Track before scrambling down the very steep dirt embankment. Again falls are likely. Take care in either option.

Ética

While this area does not appear to be national park, the adjacent land on the Northern side of the Goat Track is and this creek has high amenity and ecological values akin to national park. Treat it with the utmost of care. All the usual ethics apply. Leave as little trace as possible.

Historia

The history of the area is unclear at this stage. Here is what is known as of 19 August 2021.

There is some indication that the area was found (but not climbed) by trad climbers Anthony Dignan and David Kahler as early as February 1990.

Jack Mullaly was first shown the site by Joel Nelson (both biketrials riders) circa 2011 to 2014. Both rode in the area several times in these years. At this time Jack was in the habit of scouring climbing websites to find rocks for potential riding locations and remembers seeing the Goat Track area listed on an unknown (and presumably long gone) website at around this time. His memory is that there were climbs listed on what is now known as "The Slipperiest of Slabs" but little or nothing listed further down the creek. This suggests but doesn't prove that the site had encountered little development at this time.

Albert Tate located the site on 31 December 2020 and in January 2021 he established several routes, including those on the boulders currently known as "Previously climbed 1" "Previously climbed 2" and 'Previously climbed 3'. He also explored the creek in some detail. At this stage however the area remained unlisted on The Crag.

On 13 August 2021 Jack Mullaly (now bouldering regularly) revisited the site to scope it's climbing potential heading downstream as far as the first waterfall. He added the area to The Crag, including 16 problems and various topos.

On 19 August 2021 Albert Tate contacted Jack Mullaly to provide additional history about the area. Albert added several problems to the area.

This is where this history stands at present, being an amalgam of Albert and Jack's knowledge of the site.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.540780, 153.047958

Resumen

Hidden boulders in one of the largest remnants of bush in Brisbane

descripción

'Toohey Forest' is a large area of bushland in the southern suburbs of Brisbane. Scattered throughout the forest are innumerable small sandstone boulders. There's heaps of problems and it's nice & shady, so many summer afternoons and many many layers of fingertip skin have been lost here!

restricciones

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Acceso

'Toohey Forest' is about 10 km south of Brisbane city. The best access for most of the boulders is from the car park just off Toohey Road, Tarragindi. Be aware the car park gate is locked from 7pm until 6am.

View car park on Google Maps

To get there by public transport, take the bus to Griffith University's Nathan campus which adjoins the forest. For public transport information see TransLink.

Alojamiento

Camping isn't allowed at 'Toohey Forest'.

Historia

Back in the mists of time a rough typed guide call the "Prawn guide" by Rob Appleby with additions by Lee Cujes.

In 2012 Bruce Taylor made a good effort to make a new guide, which was then merged all together into theCrag to try and make sense of it all.

Various tidbits of route names have been gleaned from Qurank and elsewhere. This guide is very much a work in progress, if you see issues please fix them or start a discussion.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.690308, 152.855754

Resumen

Varied bouldering on rough sandy sandstone. *DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE!! (It breaks holds and destroys problems).

descripción

This isn’t the super high quality, compact Grampians sandstone people know Australia for, but White Rock is high quality for Queensland standards most definitely. The rock is very slopered and hueco’d- with a lot of people saying it is most similar to Font in style as well as stone. Many classics litter the areas with a lot of them having mantel cruxes on sweet nothingness. First recorded ascents of climbers bouldering (mainly on the way through to Frog as abit of exploration) at White Rock Conservation Park, date back to the 1980’s. The park covers a huge area with a multitude of sectors scattered throughout. Lots of the areas can be accessed by a mountain bike. On a bike the half-hour walk to White Rock is reduced to about 10 minutes!

Development, so far, has mostly been concentrated on the areas before White Rock. This park still has a huge amount of potential and undiscovered areas. So get out there brushing! A brush is also a compulsory kit item to bring. Instead of complaining about a boulder being sandy or dirty, please help the community by brushing the problem down.

Photos:

http://www.pbase.com/simon_vos/redbank_plains&page=all

http://www.jottie.com.au/bouldering/Redbank300705/index.html

restricciones

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Acceso

'White Rock Conservation Area' is in the suburb of Redbank Plains, half an hour or so southwest of 'Brisbane'. Driving west along the Ipswich Motorway from 'Brisbane', take the Brisbane Rd exit. Follow the signs to Redbank Plains, driving along Brisbane Rd, Queen St and then Redbank Plains Rd. Keep following Redbank Plains Rd through a couple of intersections before turning left into School Rd. Follow School road to its end, then take Norton Sands Drive onto White Rock Dr under the overpass and park in the Paperbark Flats picnic area carpark at the northern end of the conservation area. Note that even though the Centenary Highway goes right past the conservation area, there isn't an exit onto School Rd.

Ética

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.455063, 153.040657

Resumen

For the absolute beginner to the advanced climber, bouldering is the new extreme sport craze around the world. This ropeless form of climbing will challenge you physically and mentally while you tone muscle and build strength.

descripción

If you climb at Urban Climb, use the generic routes below to update your logbook.

5 Morse St, Newstead QLD 4006

https://www.urbanclimb.com.au/

descripción

Gregory Terrace, Brisbane, Queensland 4000

descripción

https://www.crankclimbing.com.au/

2/537 Kessels Road, MacGregor, QLD 4109

Summary:

Escalada en tope rope y Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.457764, 153.031085

Resumen

Located in Fortitude Valley, at Rocksports, climbing is fun, healthy, and social. Come see us today!

descripción

Rocksports was the first indoor climbing gym in Brisbane. Since throwing open the doors in 1996, countless climbers have enjoyed the unique climbing experience we offer.

Our routes are for you, the Rocksports climber. Our routes are designed to serve a purpose. Through our routes, we want to…

Help you improve your climbing
Expose you to the variety of movement climbing offers
Make climbing fun
Help you get fit
Allow you to train for your climbing goals

Acceso

A 2 minute walk from Fortitude Valley train stations, or a 10 mintue walk from the Brisbane CBD.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.472997, 153.000217

Resumen

For the absolute beginner to the advanced climber, bouldering is the new extreme sport craze around the world. This ropeless form of climbing will challenge you physically and mentally while you tone muscle and build strength

descripción

If you climb at Urban Climb, use the generic routes below to update your log book.

17 Roy St, Milton QLD 4064

https://www.urbanclimb.com.au/

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.476972, 153.008468

Resumen

From absolute beginner to advanced, indoor climbing is a great way to help improve your cardio health, tone muscle and build strength in a challenging and fun environment.

descripción

If you climb at Urban Climb you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

2/220 Montague Rd, West End QLD 4101

https://www.urbanclimb.com.au/

Acceso

2/220 Montague Rd, West End QLD 4101

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.467720, 152.974190

Resumen

The smaller concrete retaining wall, near 25 Stuartholme Road, Toowong. (up the hill from the house with 119 out front). The concrete has a texture somewhat like a natural slab.

descripción

A type of concrete retaining wall, that was built to have low visual impact.

Acceso

Best during road closures. Otherwise... just be a homie and climb it

Historia

Unknown.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.261655, 153.107433

Resumen

A new concrete retaining wall next to HMQS Gayundah.

descripción

No bolts please. There are 20mm holes at the top for removeable bolt anchors.. Such as ClimbTech RAF075N. Use these to make a top rope for the kids. The concrete is of excellent quality. Crux moves are all at about 2.5m high. It's easy climbing to the top, but it's HIGH. Please downclimb via 'Rust Off'. Dogs on leash only. Pub is 300m away. Shade available most of the day. A beautiful place, so let's keep it clean. This concrete dries super fast, even after heavy rain.

Acceso

Easy. Next to the lookout at the HMQS Gayundah wreck.

Historia

HMQS Gayundah was a flat-iron gunboat operated by the Queensland Maritime Defence Force and later the Royal Australian Navy (as HMAS Gayundah). She entered service in 1884, and was decommissioned and then beached on 2 June 1958. 'Gayundah' is said to be an Aboriginal word for lightning.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.514675, 153.203157

Resumen

Wall Walkers Bouldering is a new indoor bouldering gym in Central Capalaba.

descripción

Our first and foremost goal is to create a fun and safe climbing experience For Everyone. This means a higher quantity of routes on the wall and more frequent route setting!

We are proud to have Brisbanes & Capalaba's first and only 25° Moonboard (2019 Holdset). Connect your phone via Bluetooth and choose from thousands of routes that light up on the wall. The 25° Moonboard is best for beginner to intermediate climbers and provides a more reasonable challenge for new climbers just getting into the sport. Test yourself against climbing heroes or set your own routes for fun!

Come say hi on our social media channels below and stay up to date with everything Wall Walkers, we are most active on Instagram.

Summary:

Escalada en tope rope, Escalada artificial y Escalada clásica

Resumen

Documented for historical purposes. This crag is on private land and is CLOSED. DO NOT attempt to climb here.

descripción

The following description has been transcribed from a photocopy of a photocopy of a guidelet that was circulating around the late 90s to early 2000s. The source of this guidelet is unknown, but appears to be a small part (pages 29, 31-33) of a larger guidelet. Pages 30 & 32 appear to be missing, but may have contained the photos referred to in the guidelet. Transcription as follows:

"The Keperra Cliff is on the southern side of Samford Road, about 0.7 km east of the intersection with Settlement Road. Access is via a dirt track off Samford Road.

The cliff rises out of a large pool of water occupying an old quarry floor. It consists of two sections, a steep slab which contains most of the climbs, and a broken area to the right. The maximum height is about 28 meters.

The rock is pink adamellite of the Middle Triassic Enoggera Granite, made up of large feldspar crystals in a light brown fine-grained groundmass. It displays typical granitic weathering characteristics, forming large, smoothly rounded outcrops with roughened surfaces giving excellent friction.

The outstanding climbs are the three to the right of the central crack (Granita, Crimson Dynamo (Photos 7, 8), and Aldeberon). On the first two the main interest is in getting above the ripple, and all three provide excellent friction climbing.

The climbing techniques on the slab involve skilful use of small undulations as footholds or mantle-shelfs. Balance rather than strength is the key.

The Climbs

The climbs are described in order, left to right facing the cliff. All routes are as close as possible straight up the slab in parallel lines from their starting points. Diagonal traverses across the face are possible but almost all the holds are contained in the vertical routes. Above half height the rock deteriorates and all routes become easier."

restricciones

NO ACCESS. This crag is on private land (Keperra Sanctuary retirement village). DO NOT climb here.

Acceso

All previous approach points have now been cut off due to the surrounding land being developed for private housing. Any attempt to access the cliff would involve trespass.

Ética

Don't climb here.

Historia

In the 80s and 90s, local children used the abandoned quarry as a swimming hole, and would jump off the surrounding cliffs into the murky water. Rumours abounded that no one had ever been able to reach the seemingly bottomless depths. Children told chilling tales of a car wreck on the bottom that supposedly contained a human skeleton.

Not known as a climbing venue of choice, this crag saw little climbing over the years. Some climbers local to the area would use it as an introductory crag for novices, or to teach abseiling skills.

Eventually, the Keperra Sanctuary retirement village was constructed and the waterhole was fenced off. The cliffs could still be accessed for a few years by rapping in from the top, but eventually climbers were confronted by the retirement village security guard, who, while intrigued by the climbing activities, nonetheless laid down the law that this is private land and no further access for climbing would be allowed.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.543518, 153.465086

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.424892, 152.949360

descripción

Large boulder located near the entrance to Rockworx quarry. Good quality rock hides beneath a thick layer of road dust; a brush is a must.

Acceso

There is enough space in at the quarry entrance to park beside the boulder, just be sure not to block access for the owners or workers - especially during working hours.

Historia

No evidence of development prior to 2023. Efforts have been made to find and contact people who may have developed this boulder.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -28.060957, 152.620254

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -27.984251, 152.620145

Resumen

Crack climbing par excellence. While the cracks aren't pure splitters, they are very, very excellent!

descripción

First aid

Should an accident occur, you will note a sign at the base of the descent gully stating "Left" and "Right" sides. This is in the event that you have to ring the SES or other emergency services, and need to indicate the correct side of the crag for the emergency services to attend. As you are walking down, the side to your Right/East is the "Right" side, and the Left/West is the "Left". Mobile phone reception at the cliff is good, but reception in the campground and car park is dodgy to say the least.

In an emergency call: 000 and ask for the relevant emergency service (112 for mobiles).: Alternatively, the Boonah Hospital is open 24 hours, and can be found on Leonard St (just off the main street). The phone number is: (07) 5463 3300.

Rock and Rack

The rhyolite at Frog makes for excellent vertical, parallel-sided crack systems. The rock is usually bombproof, although the occasional small flake does tend to peel off. As such, between 1 - 2 racks of cams would be handy. Crack size varies as much as can be imagined. However, a standard rack of cams from fingers up to fist size will cover most routes.

Most of the routes below grade 26 have been led before cams, the protection found from hexes and nuts is nothing short of excellent. You also get beard stroking points for climbing on hexes only. Bolts can be found on the unprotected faces and arêtes, and some are the older style carrot bolts. As such 3 - 5 bolt brackets will definitely come in handy. Dodgy pitons from eons ago can also be found, clip at your own risk! 4 to 5 screw gates, 8 - 16 draws and a helmet (lots of loose stuff at the top) will complete your rack. A 60m rope comes in handy, but is not a necessity. Two ropes are required to get off the longer routes.

Weather and comfort

The best time to climb at Frog is between April and September. Perfect winter climbing can be enjoyed with long mild days, cool nights and perfect friction. Climbing during summer is possible for the sadomasochistic. However, it is usually restricted to a 5am start, finishing at around 10-11am. Mozzies and rain are also far more prevalent during summer.

Credit for crag description above and most route descriptions: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

restricciones

Access to Frog has been restricted previously due to phytophthora outbreaks.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

2020 note: As of 2020, all wood fires are banned at Frog. The use of gas or other camp stoves is not affected.

Acceso

Mt French can be found 100km South West of Brisbane, situated on the outskirts of the small country town of Boonah.

From Brisbane

The quickest way is to go towards Ipswich on the Ipswich motorway. Just before Ipswich there are two left exits. UPDATE: Don't take either exit. Instead continue straight ahead following signs for Warwick and the Cunningham Hwy. Drive along this for 13km to take the "Boonah" exit. Take this turn and follow the signs.

From the Gold Coast

The quickest way is to go through the townships of Nerang, Canungra, and then Beaudesert.

From the West

The quickest way is to turn East at Warwick onto the Cunningham Highway. Turn off right about 5km past Aratula at a prominent Intersection towards Boonah.

After arriving in Boonah, proceed South through the main street past the famous Flavours Café, until you arrive at the equally famous Dugandan Hotel. Turn right here, and follow the signs to Mount French National Park.

From the carpark

From the car park, walk towards the toilets. Take the path that branches left (marked North Lookout) and follow this for about 100m. Take the obvious dirt track that branches off left, and follow the steep track down to the cliff. The obvious chimney on the left is Clockwork Orange Corner.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Alojamiento

The campsites can be found about 150m East of the car park. Go past the toilet block for about 15m, and the path to the campsite will be found to your left. This area has a very limited number of sites available, and it is therefore essential to pre-book if you want to be assured of a campsite. Permits are not valid until full payment has been made, so it is advisable to pay in advance. Bookings can be made by visiting the Qld Parks web site: http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/moogerah-peaks/

UPDATE: There are no options for payment at the campground. Fees are $5.60 per person per night, with family discounts available.

Camp fires are strictly prohibited outside of the camping area, and fires may only be lit within the designated fire places that are provided. Firewood collection within the National Park is also strictly prohibited. The use of generators within the campsite is not encouraged. Toilets and running water are located in the toilet blocks adjacent to the campsite.

Alternative more expensive accommodation can be found in Boonah at the hotels (approx $50/night), AirBnB such as the funky 100 old church, or in the caravan park which has no cabins.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Ética

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Use the toilets at the car park and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Historia

In the beginning...

According to the Joe Lynch Guide Book, the history of Frog was as follows:

> Then God commanded, "Let there be Frog Buttress, to separate pro-weighters from climbers". When the Lord created Frog, there were no climbers. Then the Lord God said, "It is not good for rock to live alone. I will make a suitable companion to help him". While the rock lay asleep, God took a piece of rhyolite. He formed a climber from this piece and brought it unto the cliff. "Here at last is one of a rare quantity - rock from my cliff". That is why a man leaves his father and mother and is united with the rock, and they become one. The climber and the rock were naked, but they were not embarrassed. So be it.

> — The Gospel according to Dave Moss

Most historians, however, would agree that on 9 November 1968, Rick White and Chris Meadows decided to go and check out the cliff that looked like "no more than an insignificant scar on the North-Western flanks of the unassuming but picturesque Mt French". (Camps)

What they discovered, however, was the premier climbing location in South-East Queensland and some would argue, in all of Queensland. On that day, White and Meadows put up the Corner of Eden. Rick initially named the cliff "Paradise Lost", "but the presence of several abandoned contraceptive aids (or 'French Letters') in the locally frequented car park at the top of the cliff prompted Chris to suggest the name "Frog Buttress"- and it stuck." (Meadows, M. (2015), Living Rock, p231). This route was but a small indicator of the potential that the cliff had to offer, and this was made further apparent by the face that, by 1970, a further 50+ routes had been added, and 2 mini-guide books had already been published

The 1970's

The 70's saw a massive influx of climbing talent, and a commensurate jump in both the number and the difficulty of the routes that Frog had to offer. In the early 70's, major routes such as the mighty Odin, Conquistador, Venom and Juggernaut had all appeared, and, even by 1971, the guide by Rick White and Ron Collett had over 100 routes listed!

Over the next 5 years, climbers such as Ted Cais, Rick White and Henry Barber all had enormous impact upon the cliff, with the establishment of routes such as Black Light, Child in Time, Insomnia (the first 23 in Australia), Devil's Dihedral, Deliverance etc. Barber in particular almost single handedly raised the standard of climbing a Frog (and indeed in Australia) with his whirlwind tour of the country. Henry climbed 25 first ascents in 3 days all in impeccable style, including soloing Magical Mystery Tour in the boots that he had walked off the plane in, as a way to get back up to the top camp after a hard day climbing! It took years for the locals to catch up.

By the end of 1978, routes such as Wild One, Paranoia, Old Guard and Impulse were all freed, and the prime movers behind these achievements were that mighty climbing duo of Greg Child and Kim Carrigan. Decade was also climbed on the tenth anniversary of the discovery of Frog Buttress.

1979 was clearly the year of the hard man, with a veritable plethora of quality hard routes going up during that time. Tobin Sorenson and Jon Allen popped over to free the classic routes of Tantrum, Barbed Wire Canoe and Green Plastic Comb. They also made a fine addition to the cliff during that trip in the form of The Guns of Navaronne. Rob Staszewski put up a pile of routes. However the standouts were Lonely Teardrops, No Return and the crack test piece of Carrion Comfort. Kim Carrigan was also back at it, repeating all of Sorenson and Allen's routes, as well as establishing the classic thin face crack of Voices in the Sky. At the end of 1979, the fourth guide to Frog, containing of 200, routes was published by Rick White.

The 1980's

1980 was the year of the controversy. It started with Rob Staszewski patiently cleaning the corner of the aid line Crystal Blue Persuasion in preparation for an attempt at a free ascent, only to have Marty Beare steal it out from under his nose, and re-name it Quietly Superior. Rob is still very touchy about that one!

In 1982 Kim Carrigan came back from Europe, bringing with him a change in ethics at Frog. He used the first piton to be placed in a free climb for many years on his first ascent of the run out and sustained Stand in Line. Things snowballed more when Joe Lynch placed the first bolt at Frog on his route Yodel up the Valley. Rick White was so disgusted by this that he immediately arranged for Carrigan to do the route, and eliminate the bolt. The bolt, however, was not chopped!

1982 saw Chris Shephard claim the excellent line of Life at the Top, as well as freeing the super classic Gone and Forgotten, which had, until then, remained an aid line! There was much controversy when Kim Carrigan came back to the cliff, with his mission being to free the super hard Brown Corduroy Trousers. He succeeded on the third day, however, the controversy centred around the fact that a hold had mysteriously appeared up on the right in the middle of the crux section, and the fact that the hold had certainly not been there the previous year when Warwick Baird was sieging it! The New Zealanders completed their domination of 1982 by putting up the super bold face and arête route of Ockerphillia as a statement against bolting.

1983 saw an increase in bolting, which itself was seen by some as the next logical progression in allowing the crag to reach its full potential. Stuart Camps put up the magnificent arête of Oppenheimer's Monster, Paul Hoskins established the brilliant Plate Tectonics and Mark Moorhead bagged the often attempted arêtes of Hard Nose and Nosey Business. It wasn't all bolting though, with Kevin Lindorff producing one of the most bold and difficult routes on the Trousers Wall; Flange Desire. 1983 also saw Joe lynch put out his thoroughly entertaining sixth guide to Frog Buttress, containing over 300 routes.

1984 was a hectic year in the life of Frog. However, the key event was the first death at the cliff: Jeff lamb. His death had a profound and sobering effect on the climbing community. The same year, however, Kim Carrigan managed to free the immensely challenging The Lord's Prayer, which had understandably remained as an aid route. In the same trip, he also managed to add Self Expression and The Anti-From Direct to the cliff, both of these routes being very bold and technical.

There was a distinct lull in the pace of new routes over the following years. However, in April of 1987 Steve Mayers managed to free the stunning, hard face of Time for Tea!

Over the next few years there was still a smattering of development. The main focus was in the repeating of routes. The big achievement of 1988 was the development of the hardest line at the cliff, Whistling Kite, by Englishman Paul Smith. There was a lot of controversy over the tactics and bolting of the ascent, but it is still the hardest route on the cliff today. Mike Law managed to put up the excellent fridge-hugging arête of Debrilla.

The 2nd ascent of Brown Corduroy Trousers by visiting Japanese hot shot Kishio Takamori also occurred that year. Scott Camps published the seventh guide to Frog Buttress, featuring just over 400 routes, (some that are total rubbish traverses have not been included in this guide). There was also considerable controversy around the alleged plagiarising of large portions of the previous guide, although in his defence, there are only so many ways that you can describe a crack, and I think it is not in Scotts' character to have done this!

The 1990's

The next major action at the cliff occurred in 1992, with visiting super climber Sebastian Schwertner putting up the 2nd and 3rd hardest climbs at the cliff; the much considered line of Pokamoko and the Valley Girls, as well as How Are Your Calluses Today. John Pearson also chipped in with his excellent arête, Inhibition, during this period.

Only a very small amount of new routing activity has occurred over the last 10 years. Matt Hutton lead the charge with his excellent additions to the cliff of Dangerously Sane in 1997, The Elven King in 2001, as well as Hallowed Ground and Boris and Natasha Direct in 2003. Matt has since moved back to NSW.

Whilst there is still the occasional new route, even as recently as 2006, it would be fair to say that the scope for additions to the cliff would be limited to the very highest of grade brackets, or to totally contrived mank. This is not to say, however, that the cliff is in any way climbed out, because every time a hold falls off, it's like a brand new climb!

Frog is more popular now than ever before, and, as we wait with baited breath to watch what the genetically enhanced climbing freaks of tomorrow produce, we must also remember to staunchly pay homage to the efforts and ethics of the founding forefathers of our magnificent cliff. It is our solemn duty to make sure that our cliff remains as undamaged, unmolested and as ethically strong as possible. We should aspire to display the same respect and love for the cliff as was displayed 30 years ago, so that the next generation can enjoy the magnificent moments that Frog has to offer equally as much as we have.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -27.804189, 152.810463

descripción

Flinders Peak is a prominent landmark to the south of Ipswich.

The cave is open, but please be aware access is sensitive and if we aren't careful we could lose the privilege again. Please respect the local roads and residents, keep gates closed at all times and do not leave any gear or rubbish in the cave.

restricciones

Please respect the local roads and residents, leave gates as you find them and do not leave any gear or rubbish in the cave. Tread lightly and stick to the trail on the way to and from the crag.

Acceso

Drive: From Brisbane head out on the Centenary Highway, turn south at Ripley Rd. After about 10km this turns into Undullah Rd. After a further 7km turn right onto Mount Elliott Rd. On Mount Elliott Rd you eventually come to 2 sets of gates. Go through the gate and close them behind you. At the second set of gates, the right one is clearly someone's house, take the left gate. Drive to the end (bumpy dirt road) and park somewhere without blocking the final locked gate or the road.

Secret Cave Walk in: Follow the fire trail for 5 mins, to an intersection with a yellow SFT marker. Turn left (uphill). Soon you arrive at another yellow SFT marker. Go left again onto the faint trail. Follow through the trees to a clearing and Head left. You should be able to follow this trail all the way to the crag without much trouble. At the small cave, scramble up the rock just left where the log leans against the wall.

Eastern Walls walk in: TBC

Summary:

Escalada alpina, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -28.285709, 152.723768

descripción

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -28.077252, 152.504148

descripción

Mt. Greville is one of several mountains around Boonah which is protected by the Moogerah Peaks National Park. The rock is tightly fused trachyte in various stages of erosion, cliff faces up to about 300m in height.

Useful Info: The nearest towns by distance are: Aratula, Mt Alford and Boonah.

There is no camping, water, BBQ's or facilities of any kind.

Various rare and endangered flora and fauna can be found around the peak including:

Westringia Sericea

Hibbertia Hexandra

Plectranthus Alloplectus

Acacia brunioides subsp. brunioides

Arundinella Grevillensis

Leionema Gracile

Grevillea Linsmithii

Comesperma Breviflorum

Melaleuca Groveana

Arundinella Montana

Black-Breasted Buttonquail

Powerful Owl

Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby

Important

Don't urinate or crap in the gorges, they are creeks!

Be discreet and respect the environment when you are here.

There is a general agreement not to climb in Palm Gorge or Waterfall Gorge. These are very unique micro-environments, leave them for future generations. Don't ruin access for others by climbing in these 2 amazing places....

The rock quality of Greville, generally speaking, isn't great and the walls are covered in vegetation.

restricciones

NO CLIMBING IN PALM GORGE! This is a very unique micro-climate area with very limited, very unique flora.

Acceso

From the round-about at Boonah, head west on the Boonah-Fassifern Road towards the Cunningham Hwy. Turn left on the Cunningham Hwy & head SW towards Cunningham's Gap, passing thru the township of Aratula. Drive about 5kms South from Aratula & turn left at the Spicer's Gap Sign (google maps say Lake Moogerah Rd). Follow this road for 8+ kms as it wraps around a glorious view of Mt. Greville on your right (road turns to dirt at some point, but not a 4WD road.) Do not turn down the signed Spicer's Gap Road, and keep going past the reservoir/lake on your left. Then turn right into Mt. Greville Rd and find small the NP parking lot ahead. Approach the Wizard and Grey sectors through Waterfall gorge.

One could probably approach this from the east as well.

No toilets or running water at car park.

Ética

Keep a low profile. If you need to go, do not toilet in a gorge as these are water courses. Bury your faecal matter, or better yet, carry it out with you. Do not litter - carry it in = pack it out.

Summary:

Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -28.344399, 152.718773

descripción

Mount Lindesay is an 1167 metre high mountain in the McPherson Range in Mount Barney National Park in the Scenic Rim Region of Queensland.

Acceso

Located in Mount Barney National Park.

Alojamiento

There are many accommodation options in Mount Barney National Park, ranging from camping to luxury lodges.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.208047, 152.727039

Resumen

Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are very seldom visited = many crags are in a pristine state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days.

descripción

Great views of the Fassifern Valley, the Moogerah Valley, Knapps Peak to the North & Mt. Lindsay + Mt. Barney to the South.

restricciones

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

East Face - Sluice gate

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

East Face - Maroon National Park boundary

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

Acceso

Roughly 100kms South of Brisbane:

Maggie's Farm - Mt. Maroon - locality map-2.JPG

Access is via 2 roads - Cotswold for all crags bar Maggie's Farm & Paddy's Plain & the southern areas which are accessed via Seidenspinner Rd:

Maggie's Farm - Mt. Maroon - locality-1.jpg

The approach to most of the climbing areas is severe. Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs. 2hrs to the Tiger Face. 2hrs to the N.W. Columns. Maggie's Farm is a 5km walk in & is, as of 2019, mostly out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.

Alojamiento

Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen": https://www.bigriggen.com.au/

If you're after a bit more luxury than camping, Bilyana Cottages are 10km North of Maroon, just North of the Maroon Dam turn-off: http://www.bilyanacottages.com/

Ética

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

Historia

Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble

Summary:

Búlder, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -28.214157, 152.675131

descripción

A number of smaller bouldering areas. More information to come.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.216306, 152.529912

Resumen

So close to the road you can get beta from Google Street View.

descripción

A small roadside crag with trad lines and a scattering of bolts, beside a picturesque creek.

Old-school style crack lines - graded accordingly - with a couple of bolted face climbs. Quite good quality climbing and rock, that would get more attention if it wasn't around the corner from Frog.

Some climbs have white, painted initials at their base.

Acceso

'The Mushroom' is about 30 km southwest of Boonah on Head Rd. It's unmissable to the left just after going over a cattle grid.

Park on the side of the road, 50m or so north of the crag.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada en roca y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.078136, 152.551218

restricciones

Private land! Closed at this point

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.204712, 152.429256

descripción

The Steamers is a series of rocky outcrops located in Main Range National Park in South East Queensland. The Main Range is a rugged mountainous area with steep dropoffs and spectacular views. The lack of traffic over the years is justifiable as the rock is falling apart, with loose rocks the size of small cars just hanging around.

restricciones

Located in Main Range National Park.

Acceso

Main Range National Park is accessible by car from the Cunningham Highway. If you have a 2WD you'll have to park further down the road before the first creek crossing and walk the extra 5km or so in.

Alojamiento

There are many remote bush campsites located within the park, including one on top of The Stern.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.096502, 152.725146

Resumen

A long single pitch cliff, N.W. facing.

descripción

Situated behind the farmer's house, on private land. It has 2 sub-crags. Mostly slabs, there are some overhanging sections of rock.

restricciones

Closed to climbing by the farmer.

Acceso

Drive South of Boonah, turn left onto Bunburra Rd., drive along this for several kms, until you come over a hill & see the crag and property before you.

Historia

First developed by Fred From & Kevin Pearl on some forays in the early 70s, the crag slumbered for many years, with development being centred on Frog Buttress & other areas, and the climbing community was still quite small and exclusive at this time. It was "rediscovered" in 1983 by a small troop of Frog climbers and over 30 routes were established there by the following year.

In late 1984, Stuart Camps published a mimeoed guide, which contained 60-70 routes and boosted interest in the crag. The crag was initially closed by the farmer to climbers in late 1986, following abuses of hospitality and access rights across his property. A small group of concerned climbers was able to renegotiate access in the Spring of 1987 (with a checklist of access guidelines published), but abuses of hospitality continued, and access to the crag was permanently shut-down by the landowner in 1987.

Summary:

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -28.196621, 152.540095

Resumen

A group of small rocky knolls or outcrops

descripción

Small individual rocky outcrops, all single pitch, horseshoe shaped outcrop that runs North, then around West & South.

restricciones

Private land; farmer is not in favour of climbers on his property and closed access.

Acceso

Drive South from Boonah, turn right onto Carney's Creek Rd., follow this for roughly 14kms, turn right onto Head Rd. (after crossing the ford), the outcrops and cliffs start, above right, about 2kms along this road.

Ética

Farmer's hospitality was abused by climbers in the 80s = climbers now shut out.

Historia

Initially discovered & developed by Peter Lehman in 1984 and subsequent development by: Gordon & Evan Bieske, Stuart & Scott Camps, Andrew Barry, Mike Groom, Hugh Penning, Russell Chudliegh, Shane Chemello, Phillip Waters Allen Hansen, Phil Bigg, Paul Grey & others.

Stuart Camps published a mimeoed guide in 1985. The rumour was that a horse was shot on the farmer's property and climbers were blamed. Closed around 1985/86 by the farmer.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -28.223767, 152.635003

Resumen

Harmarney features bullet hard rhyolite with a wall for shade or sun.

descripción

Climbing at Hamarney is mostly steep to vertical sport climbing and a standard sport rack of gear should suffice. Unique to the crag are the Sneaky Hamarney Awesome Sinker Bucket Jugs or SHASBJ's for short (if you can pronounce that can you please let me know). Despite those SHABJ's, at times you may find yourself squealing on some rather thin and crimpy holds. Climbs range from 19-25m on high quality dense Rhyolite. Astute awareness of your climbing ability is required when deciding whether or not to stick-clip the first bolt i.e. stick-clip the steep stuff you or BYO spotting crew ya clown!

restricciones

This crag is on private property. Access to Harmarney has changed since its discovery and initial development. Permission from surrounding land owners must be granted to access the crag.

Ética

Sport crags have their impacts, just as humans on this planet do. Our footprints are heavy and the toll on the cliff and the surrounds is evident.

We have kept our impact as minimal as possible by adhering to the following:

Bury your business in a hole (and your clean up tools), under a rock cairn, at least 200m away from the cliff, off the track and not near the creek bed.
Do not pull off rock that does not need it (only removed in the interest of safety), and try to be considerate to the surrounds were the rock is dropped.
Take all rubbish out with you.
Stay on the tracks to reduce trampling.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.106694, 152.725232

Resumen

A long cliff with several caves, upwards of 50m high cliffs.

descripción

The many sub-crags offered quite varied climbing, from slab, to overhung with large roofs. Predominantly West facing, some crags are East facing.

restricciones

The crag is on private land and is closed to climbers by the landowner.

Acceso

On the Eastern side of Cannon Creek Rd Boonah. From Boonah, Follow the Bunburra rd to the end and turn right into Cannon Creek Rd. Alternatively, coming from the Boonah-Rathdowney rd, turn North onto Cannon Creek rd. (about 1km past the bustling township of Maroon).

Historia

Access hospitality by the farmer/landowner was granted in the mid 70s, and Fred From & Kevin Pearl established "Adonis", followed soon after by Robert Staszewski's "Red Hot 24". The crag slumbered along as most attention was focused on Frog and other crags and the climbing community was still rather small.

Popularity was peaked by Stuart Camps' 1985 guide, which was motivated by the explosion in development at the crag over the early months of 1985. Prior to this, there had been only one sub-crag developed there ("Adonis Wall"). In 1988, Richard Henderson & Darren Holloway published a printed guide to the area and the greater influx of newer climbers, resulting from this official guide book, saw larger numbers of climbers visiting and abuses of hospitality by same over a period of several years. Climbers camped there (albeit with the landowners permission) & lit fires on his property, indulged in out-of-control parties (wild behaviour), left gates open so his live stock wandered out onto public roads, and even brought pets (dogs) which then proceeded to chase the livestock.

The farmer shut-down access initially, and was then approached by a body of concerned climbers (the equivalent of today's ACAQ), who managed to renegotiate access, only for further abuses to continue, after which, access was permanently closed.

Summary:

Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -28.124542, 152.582829

Resumen

Small crag on private land. Access closed.

restricciones

Closed by the land owner.

Historia

Developed in the late 80s by Michael Woodrow (Wonderdog). A handfull of trad routes went up before the landowner showed up, shotgun under arm.

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -28.225537, 152.752691

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -28.115343, 152.603099

restricciones

This Land is now under the control of the Dhagun Yumba Aboriginal Corporation.

Traditional Owners have asked that climbers respect their wishes and refrain from entering the land and or climbing any part of the crag.

On 18th March 2023 this land was handed back to Traditional Custodians as inalienable freehold land held in perpetuity for the benefit of the Aboriginal people connected to the land. https://statements.qld.gov.au/statements/97402

Unauthorised access to this land is trespass and will be dealt with by local law enforcement.

Under the Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Act, fines of up to $133,450 for an individual and $1,334,500 for a corporation may apply for causing unlawful harm to Aboriginal cultural heritage or for breaching the duty of care. Activities considered harmful to the cultural heritage assets of this place include climbing, traversing the site, installation of infrastructure, etc.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.014962, 152.544735

Resumen

Adventurous climbing with a few hidden gems. Similar to surrounding rock such as Maroon and Frog

descripción

Most routes have been climbed but no guides have been made. Find your own line and enjoy!

restricciones

The caves to the north west of the summit are an indigenous site. Probably why no climbs have been logged. Please stay away from this area.

Acceso

Park at lake Moogerah Picnic Area. Hike across the dam and up the Mt Edwards track. Near top of track bush bash to the top of the cliffs and rap down.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada en roca y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -28.006059, 153.355407

Summary:

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: -28.195681, 153.192254

descripción

Binna Burra is a private piece of land and a lodge located in Lamington National Park in the Gold Coast Hinterland.

restricciones

It is a private property in a national park.

Acceso

An easy drive along a mountain road from Surfers Paradise and the Gold Coast.

Alojamiento

Binna Burra lodge has luxury (albeit expensive) accommodation on the mountain.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -28.091953, 153.458998

Resumen

Don't get too excited! This is a diminutive, cracked basalt wall in Burleigh Heads National Park. It has a couple of good hand cracks, chimneys, off-widths, and a few arêtes. Not bad for an afternoon of mini-climbing or off-width training. Also a good option for getting beginners ready for a weekend at Frog.

descripción

There are DBBs to accommodate the climbs spanning from Anaconda to "Narrow is the Way". If topping out above the the DBBS, two finishes are possible: The L one (roof/chimney) is 21 and very funky, the R one (chimney/crack) is 14. All other climbs require topout.

restricciones

Note that as at January 2006, climbing has been officially banned by the area's ranger. They are permitted to issue spot fines of $225 each. You have been warned!

Acceso

The car park can be accessed from Goodwin Terrace.

descripción

Small escarpment,

Rock quality not fantastic. A few areas on the southern side has potential and is of better quality rock. Don't get your hopes up.

DO NOT ACCESS THIS CRAG THROUGH PRIVATE PROPERTY.

Proper agreed access needs to be sorted. DON'T SPOIL IT FOR THE REST OF THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY just to satisfy yourself.

Acceso

Access is through private property, do not access as owner will contact council creating issues for potential climbing of this area.

Descenso

Best rock quality on southern side. Access the top of the bluff via nrth-eastern side, walk along top knife edge to find ravine. Rap down on perfect gumtree. 70m no less to get to the bottom. walk out from southern side.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -28.071894, 153.446457

Resumen

Sharp but solid and quality Quartz rock. Some problems can be heavily affected by sand build up. If it felt easy, the chances are it used to start much lower! take that into account, and have fun!

descripción

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There are many great steep problems, traverses, high balls, the lot. Some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads! Watch out for broken glass over lips and in cracks, make sure you check out your holds before you climb and clean out any glass.

restricciones

Check the low tide time and if possible, climb at these time as some climbs become inaccessible or wet at high tide.

Acceso

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland in front of Shark Bar.

Ética

Take all your rubbish with you and don't go to the toilet near the boulders! Also unfortunately this area suffers from a lot of public littering, don't be shy to take extra trash out with you for a net +ve on the area

Historia

Info on this area is hard to come by, but the earliest known climbing was done in the early 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -28.107051, 153.265538

Resumen

Several sectors around the Pinnacle facing both east and west for shade options all day long. Sectors vary in style, difficulty and quality. Pocketed slabs, steep jug hauls and full mountain multi’s. Walk-in is approximately 50min with two single trail access points circuiting the Pinnacles base. WEAR A HELMET - there have been instances of people throwing rocks down from the lookout above the crag.

descripción

http://www.goldcoaststories.com.au/pages-pinnacle/

restricciones

This cliff is inside SEQ Water property, and no access agreements have been made. The fire trail and bushland is publicly accessible and the trails are well used by bushwalkers and fitness nuts. It is best to keep all climbing gear inside our packs to not attract undue attention.

Acceso

The carpark and trail head is on Pine Creek Road, at a bend 1.4 km uphill after turning off from the Nerang Murwillumbah Road. Park parallel and orderly to maximise parking. Do Not block access to the two locked gates.

On foot take the gate signed for hiking trails, head downhill and turn right at the first junction. This will lead down and across a creek bed (often flowing) before starting back up hill. Keep right the next junction. At the following junction 60 metres further keep left. Slog it out along the fire trail up several steep inclines.

Please do not mark the trees or any other trail feature. Follow the info provided here to make your way to the cliff. If you see other user groups doing anything of the sort please educate them of their mistake.

Two single trail access points create a circuit around the Pinnacle base. Both trails split left off the main fire trail. The first (lower access), landmarked by a ‘Danger’ sign provides direct access to The Western Wall, ironically on the western side of the mountain. It can be continued left for all other sectors along the circuit. The second (upper access), 620m further along the fire trail, provides direct access to Entry Wall on the eastern side of the mountain and can be continued right for all other sectors. This trail is landmarked by a large white gum tree and used by most ridge hikers. Split right before straddling the fallen tree trunk and continue downhill to the base of the cliff.

Ética

This is a sport climbing crag. However, helmets are mandatory for walls like Sun Bowl, Ice Cream Wall & the Summit Wall where there hasn't been a lot of traffic, and extra care should be taken. Please take all litter with you and do your business away from the crag! Stay safe and have a good time.

Summary:

Todo Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: -28.174460, 153.195710

restricciones

Poondahra is in Lamington National Park. It has been closed to climbing since August 2000 due to safety and conservation concerns, after a geotechnical assessment recommended public access to the area be restricted due to "potential high to very high risk of rock fall" and a number of threatened species were found in the area.

For further information see the Lamington National Park Management Plan and this post on qurank.com.

Summary:

Mayormente Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.165699, 153.199893

Resumen

Varied trad climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21. Routes are listed left to right.

descripción

"The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occasional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes." The track down is very steep and route finding would be difficult in 2023, but well worth the trip.

"Westringia rupicola" is listed as vulnerable under the Nature Conservation (Wildlife) Regulation 2006 (Qld). It is known to grow nearby at the closed Poondahra cliffs on the orange rhyolite rock however Dr Olsen (botanist) has now confirmed that it is not present at either WW or WS. None the less there may be several other rare and vulnerable species as well so please keep to the established bush track and avoid disturbing the flora.

Note:: Ticks can be quite prevalent at WW so be prepared.

restricciones

This land is National Park, "Leave no trace" ethics must be applied.

This is NOT a restricted access area and rock climbing IS permitted as stated by A43 (page 17) of the QPWS Management Plan. Strategically placed RAA signs have been installed in the area including the start of the WW approach however this only applies to the nearby Poondahra area which is closed and all climbers must respect that closure. Do not venture further south of WW as this is restricted. Pictogram signs suggesting no access and no abseiling have also been installed however these have no legal standing in court. The Nature Conservation Act does apply and does have legal standing. If you're approached at WW by any QPWS employee please take their name, video the interaction on your phone and report it to ACAQ (president@climb.org.au), or if they are harassing you then call the police. Remind them that they are only land managers and are accountable to their own management plan and operational policy and that climbers are a valid user group and you do have the right to access and use this National Park. Decline all invitations or requests to leave or go with them as you have a right to be there. Remind them QPWS has a legislative obligation to support recreational climbing in this area as per s17(1)(d) of the NCA. They will suggest that you need a permit to climb however this is not true and is stated in their own management plan that climbing is permitted. Remember to be nice and respectful as your words/actions represent the entire community.

Acceso

Approach update 2023:: Use the Wildside approach, it is longer but much easier and safer.
Old Approach:: Park your car at the dirt patch on the nature strip next to Cedarview B&B (-28.165248, 153.197235). Access starts directly on the opposite side of the road (looking towards the valley) although the first cairn has since been removed so just walk through the long grass down the gentle slope. There is no visible track but keep an eye out for a few small cairns along the way down that might still be there (or not) and then trend left at the end of the slope following the obvious very steep gully which meanders down through large boulders to the bottom of the crag. Extreme care should be taken after the first gentle slope as it becomes extremely steep and is very hard!
Be aware: that locals have been asked to call QPWS rangers when cars are parked (even though perfectly legal) at the dirt patch nature strip, so expect a visit.

Whitinbah Wafers - Approach Map.jpg

An alternative and safer access can be achieved via the Wildside approach.

Alojamiento

Binna Burra has accommodation as well as many Airbnb options on Beechmont mountain.

Ética

Whitinbah Wafers is an historic crag and must remain trad only. Sport climbing is located at the nearby Wildside crag. Do not remove or damage any flora here, as this may be endemic to the area. As little impact as possible when climbing or walking here: pack it in, and pack it out. Leave nothing but your footprints.

Historia

Discovered by Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther whilst in the vicinity of the prison farm in the Numinbah Valley in November 1973.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.162956, 153.200552

Resumen

500m of rhyolite cliffs, diverse and 3D in nature combining both pillars and flat walls. Stunning views, beautiful forest and intriguing rock features make this area ideal to connect with nature.

descripción

Route lengths range from 12m-46m and are listed from right to left. Stick clip is highly recommended.

This land is National Park, the Nature Conservation Act applies here. Always stay on the trail. "Leave no trace" ethics must be applied.

Rock climbing is permitted as stated by A43 (page 17) of the QPWS Management Plan.

Acceso

Park your car on the nature strip (away from property gates) here: (-28.160739, 153.195541)

Walk 150m further up the road towards Binna Burra till you reach a yellow road sign (the approach starts here).

At the yellow (windy road) sign turn and walk into the bush here: (-28.161578, 153.196972)

Wildside - Turn at the Yellow Road Sign

Wildside - Approach Through Burnt Stump

Approach Video: https://youtu.be/EElCeIjeCDk

Follow the ridge down the steep hill for approx 300m to the start of the crag (takes approx 15-20mins). Follow the base of the cliffs south for 200m till you reach "The Bridge" sector where the first climbing routes begin.

Wildside continues for another 300m along the base of the cliffs until you turn a very pronounced corner into the start of Whitinbah Wafers (you'll see the obvious columns of the Orange Box Corner). The approach through Wildside is much easier and safer for accessing Whitinbah Wafers (and is preferred).

Note: If you are venturing further then care must be taken to not pass Whitinbah Wafers into the restricted access area of Poondahra.

Historia

Rock climbing on this land in the early 1970's pre-dates the QPWS acquisition.

descripción

38 Hutchinson Street, Burleigh Heads, Burleigh Heads, Queensland 4220

Resumen

A favourite costal destination. Rock aplenty, with a long and undocumented climbing history

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -28.163548, 153.550526

descripción

Volcanic Rock Next to Snapper

Acceso

Park at Apex Park or parking at Point Danger.

Summary:

Mayormente Búlder

Lat / Long: -0.196843, 151.887021

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -28.559102, 151.882862

Resumen

Fantastic quality boulders all within 200 meters of one another. Densely packed blocs of great quality climbing and excellent BBQ, picnic bench and toilet facilities at the carpark.

descripción

Donnelley's has had pre-crag guides created for it with hard lines on the images. Many of these images are still in use on the topo guides here. Please be aware this is what the small yellow and orange numbers relate too on the topos. These have deliberately been left visible despite it being possibly confusing as it allows you to use the overhead map topo on the main page to locate certain blocs that have lost their numeric order due to newer ascents disrupting the number sequence on that old map.

Quality sharp, classic, granite boulders. Some of the classic hard problems: https://vimeo.com/32137016

restricciones

Donnelly’s is a special bouldering area, though before that it was a special escape for locals, and before that it has long been a unique area for flora and fauna. Its place as a local spot, and its environmental health take priority. These are more important than our climbing there. If bouldering out there is found to be damaging to the environment at Donnelly’s, or not compatible with the special relationship with the area that locals have with the area, then bouldering at Donnelly’s will cease to exist in the future. This is why it is important for us to be responsible when we’re out there.

Overall, we need to keep a low profile at the beautiful Donnelly's Castle and be responsible and aware climbing stewards. Some important points are listed below – not as rules, but guidelines for responsible bouldering.

Remember, our first priority is environmental care, second is the locals' relationship with the area, and only after that comes our climbing.

RESPONSIBLE BOULDERING GUIDELINES

NOISE: – Respectful Silence. No speakers. Silent power-shouts.

There are houses nearby, and many other park users so be quiet! This is a beautiful peaceful spot so let’s keep it this way. There is somewhat of a culture of playing music at the boulders. Whilst music is great, please don’t use loud-speakers or play music from your phone. If you need tunes to get you psyched for the send, use earphones. Climb quietly and try not to power-shout – it may help us climb and might feel cool – but it’s not a good look and is hard on the ears – especially to non-climbers. Many elderly locals have been wandering Donnelly's, as a meditative, special place to them for 40+ years! Please don't disrupt them with noise. Save the peace!

DOGS: – Keep them at home, or always on a leash if they can behave quietly.

Donnelly’s is known for being a dog-friendly park– being not a National Park – and many of us have brought our dogs here. Whilst it is fun to have your crag dog running around off-leash enjoying the area, Donnelly’s isn’t the place for this. It’s close to a couple properties and is an area popular with the public, not to mention is somewhat of a haven for flora and fauna amongst the surrounding agricultural land.

Dogs are allowed in the area, but it’s best that they are on a leash. Other park users may have their dogs off-leash, but we know better and furthermore - we’re often there for at least 3 or 4 hours, and an off-leash exploring dog is both a risk to and a deterrent for wildlife. A barking dog is also a deterrent for other locals of the park. If you do bring a dog, have them on a lead at all times. If your dog is a barker and you can’t control this – then, please leave them at home (sorry pup).

FLORA & VEGETATION: – Be one with nature, and don’t remove any vegetation. None.

Vegetation and the environment are more important than a boulder problem. Don't remove plants for landings, and don't remove plants off boulders. If a shrub is in front of a potential 3-star classic - so be it. The shrub takes priority over our climbing! Keep the brushing of lichen and moss to an absolute minimum, and only on necessary holds.

LEAVE NO TRACE: – Brush off ticks & chalk, pack out all rubbish, and pick up any litter you encounter.

Like a ninja that comes and goes in the dead of the night, act as if you don’t want anyone to know you’ve been there. Leave no rubbish – this means climbing tape, rubbish, and food scraps (this area isn’t your compost bin. Bring a rubbish bag). Bring brushes to remove as much chalk as possible at the end of your session – tick marks, hold chalk and all! It will not only make the boulders nicer to climb for the next person but will result in a cleaner boulder to look at for everyone.

STAYING IN THE PARK: - Don't stray too far.

The reserve is surrounded by private land, so don't wander off into private land in the search for more boulders.

KEEP EACHOTHER ACCOUNTABLE: – Encourage one another to be responsible, and don't let others cause your morals to slip.

It's easy to be influenced into doing the wrong thing. Stay strong and keep one another accountable, and don't be afraid to inform others at the crag - respectfully - on how they can be more responsible. Nothing's worth a fight of course, but there's nothing wrong with sharing a word or two to give each other something to ponder.

The Responsible Climber: - The only way to climb

If we truly care for access, we must truly care for the environment and other people. It’s in our hands. Responsible climbing is the only way to ensure that we can enjoy great climbing for years to come.

Acceso

Type in “Castle Lane, Pozieres” and follow the road to the car park. Turn right off the highway onto Amiens Rd at the Big Apple if coming from Warwick. After about 8km turn left onto Donnelly's Castle Rd. Follow the small signs to 'the castle'.

Historia

Donnelly's Castle is a local public reserve donated to the area by the Zanatta family, now passionately managed by the local Lions Club.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -28.549755, 151.884215

Resumen

High quality, highly textured, small/medium/tall sized granite belt blocs.

descripción

Easy access granite bouldering

restricciones

State Forest

Acceso

Located right beside Donnelly's Castle. 2km along Donnelly's Castle Rd turn left onto forestry roads. There's a space for a car to park off the road at the crossroads at the northern edge of the sector. All tracks are regularly used by farm vehicles. PLEASE DON'T PARK ON THE ROAD.

Summary:

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -28.851536, 151.964662

Resumen

Coarse granite slab and face climbing.

Note almost all the sport climbing is on Carrot Bolts. Bring bolt plates.

descripción

Girraween National Park is a large area containing many fine examples of granite slab and face climbing. Most would agree that this is the finest granite climbing S.E. Qld has to offer. With little natural protection and some big run-outs, many of it's routes require an almost free solo approach. Don't be discouraged though, there are plenty of good routes with ample protection squeezed in between the blank walls.

A basic rack and a handful of hangers will suffice on most routes (and maybe some Dettol to clean that nasty granite gravel rash!). Remember - being allowed to climb at Girraween is a privilege. QPWS are aware of climbers and climbing activity in the park over the last 40 years, so be mindful & respectful of other Park users & the Park itself; keep a low profile, don't, f.ex., go strutting around with a harness & gear on. Do not climb above tourist or hiker tracks, do not establish routes above same. The routes established on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock have been taken down for this reason.

The abundance of granite bouldering potential in this region is almost unparalleled. Bear in mind you are in a QPWS park and be ethical with your cleaning of any rock, as well as your use of chalk (the rock is pretty grippy already!).

The best months for climbing are between the months of March to May and September to November as the other months are either extremely hot or can be very cold and windy. Winter is however a good time to climb with fantastic friction on the rock and the wind, if manageable, adds an excellent element of boldness to the routes. Be warned - it has snowed in the past, be ready for very cold weather if visiting mid-Winter.

restricciones

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Be mindful of bushwalkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times. Ref 2010 Management Plan

Acceso

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) S.W. of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters. There are seven separate areas within the park where climbing is possible and well established. To find the easiest ways to these areas get a map from the Rangers office. All these areas have well maintained walking tracks to them.

Alojamiento

Two campsites exist each with amenities; toilets, hot showers, laundry tub and running water. The Park Service suggests that campers book in beforehand especially if it is a long weekend or school holidays. The information centre is open 2-4pm week days and earlier on weekends. http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/girraween/camping.html

Ética

Note almost all the sport climbing is on Carrot Bolts. Bring bolt hangers.

DO NOT PLACE ANY NEW BOLTS anywhere in the Park Boundary. As per the 2010 Park Management Plan. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and Sphinx Rock. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -28.216953, 151.920404

Resumen

Lots of granite boulders scattered through forested hilltops around Leslie Dam, and around the shores of the dam itself.

descripción

Original guide and topo here:

https://qrank.luenwarneke.com/Guide_LakeLeslie.pdf The granite here is beautifully compact, but coarser grained than Donnellys or Passchendaele. Some holds are smooth and water worn, others are really quite coarse. As such, bring lots of skin, and good technique!

Acceso

Leave Warwick on the Cunningham Highway for Goondiwindi and Inglewood. About 7.5kms from Warwick, turn left onto Leslie Dam Rd at the well signposted turning.

Alojamiento

There's a campsite on the dam shore not far from the bouldering

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -0.008429, 151.816039

Resumen

Densely packed granite bouldering at all grades in the shade of the state forest. Many established lines, and opportunity for development of many more!

restricciones

Please refer to https://www.hqplantations.com.au/our-plantations/plantation-closures for any relevant temp-closures in the future of the area. "HQ Plantations" corporation act as a land manager for all the bouldering locations listed below. They operate as "Plantation Licensee" under the terms of the "Forestry Act 1959", and are thus obliged to permit, but not necessarily promote, recreational access. However, climbers should understand that the primary purpose of a State Forest is timber extraction rather than recreation, and HQ Plantations have legislative authority to restrict recreational access from time to time where timber harvesting operations presents a hazard to the public. Furthermore, HQ Plantations are required to recognize all roads within the licence area as public roads. However, they have authority to temporarily restrict access for the reasons already given. Please recognize the authority of any signage that restricts access. Please obey the instructions of the Plantation Officers who patrol the area. Should you feel that any restriction is unjust or unwarranted, contact ACAQ, president@climb.org.au, and we will take up the matter for you.

Acceso

From Brisbane, head south to Stanthorpe on the New England Highway. 15 minutes before reaching Stanthorpe, turn right onto Amiens Rd. After 15km, turn right to stay on Amiens Rd. At the T intersection turn right onto Goldfields Rd. After 750m turn left onto Pine Forest Rd. To reach the Middle sector car park, turn left onto Boatfields Rd, then immediately right onto a forestry road. The middle sector car park will be on the right after 450m.

Alojamiento

There is a private campground with facilities (toilets, showers, BBQs) at Foxbar Falls, 5 minutes drive from the main bouldering sectors. There is also some bouldering (Sow & Pigs Rock) and climbing on this property, the owners are friendly and encouraging of this. https://www.foxbarfalls.com.au/

Camping is not permitted within the state forest.

Historia

Although the granite boulders of Passchendaele have existed for many millenia, the area has seen limited exploration and development until relatively recently. Land clearing efforts in 2013 brought Passchendaele to the attention of a number of climbers including Peter Crane and Madeleine Eppensteiner who established a number of initial problems. Peter's bouldering guides, which have been available free online (www.peter-crane.com) since late 2015 remain the best source of information on the area. The inaugural Passchendaele V1 bouldering festival held in October 2016 has brought the area to the attention of the broader climbing community.

Acceso

Located Jardine Street, Stanthorpe.

Summary:

Todo Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: -28.847055, 151.712635

descripción

Perhaps as many as a couple dozen routes have been here.

These lines were to the right of the obvious corner. The corner is named 'Brown eye' as it is the most obvious thing in the middle, goes around 17 and is longer than a 60 rope, so a short pitch up to the base of the steepness and 2nd pitch from there.

There is a line just to the right of the waterfall that gets wet when the flow is high, goes around 21 from memory.

There is around five more lines between there and the corner in the low to mid 20's bolted in 80's only where required style.

there is also a couple of new lines squeezed in between with 3 times as many bolts. Sort of spoiled the crags minimal bolting ethics that have kept access in the good books so far.

These may or may not have been removed. There is a nice 23 further along from the central wall next to the central corner that goes up another rarely flowing waterfall.

A few more kicking around and it is really just a case of give it a go and have an adventure.

restricciones

Part of Sundown National Park, climbing has been low profile and has been tolerated based on good relations so far.

http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/sundown/about.html

Alojamiento

Camping is at the crag, see the National Parks website.

Ética

Avoid unnecessary bolts, they will probably be chopped.

Historia

There has been climbing here since the 80's, and it's probably fair to say that most things have already been climbed even if they aren't document here.

There has been a little bit of controversy surrounding some new routes that were put up that have quite obvious chains 3/4 of the way up the wall.

These lines had been played on for years but never bolted as nobody could get them to go to the top. An unnamed person who should know better came along and put some obvious chains that are quite visible from the lookout and put the wind up the ranger.

Summary:

Mayormente Búlder

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -28.583217, 151.770581

restricciones

This is private land so you must let the owners know you are coming. Go through the Foxbar Falls camping website. This is also an active farm so give way to any workers or work vehicles in the area. And be nice. The owners are friendly and happy for people to explore and enjoy their land. Copied from Sow & Pigs Rock.

Summary:

Escalada en roca y Búlder

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -27.080069, 151.844028

Summary:

Escalada en roca y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -27.254656, 151.815313

descripción

Toowoomba locals will be the only ones interested in this small sandstone outcropping.

restricciones

Last I heard (2009), the landowner did not want climbers on his land.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -26.850017, 151.814959

Resumen

Trad and bouldering short routes on granite surrounding a waterhole. A beginner to intermediate crag and popular swimming location.

descripción

Maidenwell is a great little place to climb and boulder. It is characterised by short routes on granite around a popular swimming hole. If you’re a beginner, Maidenwell will satisfy, and dedicated climbers of higher ability will find a suitable challenge within its confines. Most of the information here has been sourced from the 2004 3rd ed. of Luke Hyam's guidelet.

Acceso

The crag is at Coomba waterhole, 2Km from Maidenwell Town. The climbing routes are a 70m walk from carpark.

Alojamiento

Maidenwell township rest area. Free camping, public toilet and BBQ.

Ética

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

Summary:

Escalada clásica, Escalada en roca y otros estilos

Lat / Long: -27.461885, 152.099609

descripción

A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com

restricciones

It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty!

Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along.

For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this.

Acceso

30mins from Toowoomba / 90mins from Brisbane + 15min hike-in.

Head to the outskirts of Murphy's creek and find Paradise Creek road. It's a dirt road managable in a 2wd - head down here for ~3k ignoring any 'keep-out' signs along the way. Look for rocks or sticks along the road, and mind the dust past the houses. Park on the side of the road just before it turns and descends at a sharp left turn. Here's a map pin: https://goo.gl/maps/ZPnqmFW1yg9bqjSf9

The cliff is clearly visible to the South.

From the corner in the road, walk directly towards the cliffs to pick up an obvious small dirt path that follows along the ridge line, descending down into the creek bed. Continue along the creek bed walking directly towards the cliffs (stay on right side of creek)

Once you're at the base of the cliffs, there is a track that heads up each side (east and west). Depending on where you want to climb, either cross creek and find goats track up eastern side (for orange overhand, sharks fin, mythologica) or walk around creek further to other end of crag to a small steep feeder creek and follow disguised goats trail up western side. (for send in the clowns, alcove and trad bumblies)

Alojamiento

Visit the Murphys Creek Store for a cold drink on your way past and let them know you're off for a climb.

Ética

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

Summary:

Todo Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: -27.727480, 152.092902

Resumen

Some great bouldering and some fun short cliffs

restricciones

Private land but the owner, Sue, is excited about setting up the property for climbers. Just give her a call first on +61 (0)7 5462 6707.

Acceso

Directions to Fordsdale Farmstay

Fordsdale From Brisbane

Head west along the WARREGO HIGHWAY towards Toowoomba At GATTON go into the town, do not take the by-pass At 2nd set of traffic lights, (KFC) turn LEFT After approximately 5km towards the CLIFTON turn off, turn LEFT Drive 22km to WAGNERS Rd, turn RIGHT (we have a sign on the left) Follow arrows to Horse Riding or Guest House at the end (1.7km) At the end of the road, go through the gate and up the driveway Fordsdale From Toowoomba

Head down the range heading towards BRISBANE At HELIDON take the exit to GRANTHAM & GATTON (NOT the by-pass) Go approximately 8km to GRANTHAM, continue straight ahead for 3 kms Turn right at GATTON-CLIFTON RD Drive 22km to WAGNERS Rd, turn RIGHT (we have a sign on the left) Follow arrows to Horse Riding or Guest House at the end (1.7km) At the end of the road, go through the gate and up the driveway

Alojamiento

You can camp on the property for $10 a night with hot showers or pay extra for a house.

Ética

It's a new area and the owner is relatively inexperienced with climbing so do everyone else a favour and run everything like bolting by her first.

Summary:

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: -27.263346, 152.063043

Resumen

A beginner friendly crag with some intermediate stuff Nice little watering hole, if you don't mind swimming in some pretty gross looking water.

descripción

Decent juggy sandstone walls, with some very easy high balls and some decent intermediate climbing.

restricciones

It's a public access watering hole, that is very close to the town centre. The locals and tourists are often stopping by. Be respectful.

Acceso

Park at Chasely Park and walk about 200-300 metres to the watering hole.

Summary:

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: -27.244795, 152.434524

Resumen

2 minute walk in with all day winter shade. Some summer shade between 9am to 1pm

descripción

Little Crag with some short punchy lines

Acceso

On brisbane valley highway Heading into Esk from Fervale turn right into the first driveway leading onto the dirt road and do U turn immediately parking will be 27°14'48.5"S 152°26'03.1"E https://goo.gl/maps/oHVX6z1nVNvFF7Bm6

Ética

!!!!!!PLEASE READ BEFORE CLIMBING HERE!!!!!!!!

Keep noise at the crag to a minimum, take all rubbish with you from the crag and stick to the established walking track. Its a privilege not an entitlement to climb here so please do so with respect! If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, variant starts/finishes. If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

Climbers wishing to do a weekend at the crag are encouraged not to stay in the carpark overnight as sleeping/camping outside of a designated rest area or public camp site is illegal in Queensland. Access could be shut down if complaints are made from locals about climbers living/camping in the bush here, and it could only take one complaint from a local to shut down this area for everyone.  The best camping options are Esk caravan park: https://www.eskcaravanpark.com.au/ 

Wivenhoe dam: https://www.seqwater.com.au/things-to-do/camping/camping-lumley-hill-lake-wivenhoe

Somerset dam: https://www.experiencesomerset.com.au/somerset-park-campground/

South East Guide

Table of contents

1. South East 8,235 routes in Region

1.1. Wide Bay Burnett 301 routes in Region

1.1.1. Auburn River National Park 254 routes in Area

1.1.2. The Burnett River 2 routes in Crag

1.1.3. Indian Head 8 routes in Crag

1.1.4. Mt Walsh National Park 33 routes in Crag

1.1.5. Mungy 4 routes in Area

1.2. Sunshine Coast 2,423 routes in Region

1.2.1. Alexandra Headland 14 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Bellthorpe National Park 45 routes in Area

1.2.3. Brooyar 427 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Buderim 136 routes in Area

1.2.5. Coolum Beach 22 routes in Area

1.2.6. Emu Mountain 5 routes in Crag

1.2.7. Fishermans Pocket 8 routes in Area

Roca: New area - loose rock

1.2.8. Glasshouse Mountains 839 routes in Region

1.2.9. Kings State Forest 35 routes in Area

1.2.10. Kondalilla 13 routes in Crag

1.2.11. Mt Coolum 134 routes in Crag

1.2.12. Mt Cooroora 60 routes in Crag

1.2.13. Mt Ninderry 162 routes in Crag

1.2.14. Mt Tinbeerwah 51 routes in Crag

1.2.15. Noosa National Park 203 routes in Crag

1.2.16. Oakview State Forest 1 route in Area

1.2.17. Point Arkwright Headland 6 routes in Field

1.2.18. Point Cartwright 17 routes in Area

1.2.19. Point Glorious 12 routes in Crag

1.2.20. Serpent 47 routes in Crag

1.2.21. Shelly Beach 10 routes in Area

1.2.22. Undisided 4 routes in Crag

1.2.23. Baiyambora Gorge / Yabba Falls 2 routes in Area

1.2.24. Wappa Falls 17 routes in Area

1.2.25. Adventure Empire 0 routes in Gym

1.2.26. Bould Move 0 routes in Gym

1.2.27. Flow Bouldering Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.2.28. Rockit Climbing Gym 78 routes in Gym

1.2.29. Boulder-Heads 0 routes in Gym

1.2.30. Yabba Creek 48 routes in Crag

1.2.31. Constellation Quarry 13 routes in Area

1.2.32. Dropzone 6 routes in Crag