Vías en Queensland para grado seleccionado

Could be pretty evil. Rik says "not a classic by any stretch of the imagination". 45m directly below Happy Wanderer. To access, rap down in front of Avalon as for Jack's Beanstalk. Once down, go to LH side of the blank face to grassy crack. Follow crack until it almost intersects a LH diagonal crack. Traverse R and continue up this crack until gear fades. Traverse L, then R across exposed face to good gear, then up, hunting for gear as you go. Take lots of nuts and RP's.

Starting with a dyno 1m L of the R end of the wall then follow small ledges tending left.

The next corner around R from CT.

A nice shady corner defining the deepest part of the re-entrant R of Colorado Wall. The top is located approximately 15m R of the top of Siddhartha, and is marked by an overhanging shelter and a decent tree for belay. The flake near the top appears to be attached only at the bottom, and seems like it should come off when hung on. Thus, it should be approached with caution, particularly after the wet season.

"Deliverance" P5 Variant

5a) 26m 16 Up, then veer L to sickle crack. Crack to the ledge.

30m L of where the ridge joins the main cliff is a shallow R-facing corner below a clean orange face and two roofs. Corner to thin crack, then up this to small ledge up the corner for body length to large ledge and DBB on the right side in terrible and not very obvious position can be hidden by grass. Take lots of RP's!

It had to be climbed! One for those who like to grovel up old school chimneys, you know who you are.. Take great care with the huge precariously balanced orange shield. Cams up to #5. Access via protected scramble L of Barbarian.

An excellent crag warm up and beginner climb, using the fig tree at the start is part of the delight!

Stand start and mantle onto sloppy boulder.

Description and grade may need to be edited as this was mostly created as a place holder for the guide.

This starts on the face of the boulder. Stand start. Sit start would increase difficulty.

Run and Jump start to good lip then mantle.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Stand start and up good scoop features.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Start by sitting on the "Nudie rudie" rock.

Stemming.

Open project. Crack climb.

Stemming and then finishing on "Tang"

The R-hand side of the smooth slab facing the ocean.

The boulder behind you when you're facing Slap Happy has a mono problem and a dyno from bottom jugs to the top.

This climb will leave you with a good feeling afterwards. Nice jugy hold & laybacks up this flake to a slightly technical foot rockover.

Over the bulge and up the easy slab

From the big jug, reach big to good holds and easy mantle.

Huge jug to mantle.

Stand on the small pinnacle to get a head start into short corner

Sit start. Follow the featured crack to the top.

Dangerous, but easy. Prominent offwidth starting out of the ocean on the eastern side.

1.5m right of 'A', up the face on thin holds to the overhanging flake and then big move to the top. May be leadable on gear?

Sit start

Bridge and thrutch up between the two slabs. Actually worth the effort.

Up the crack opposite Slab Sandwich.

Starting under the overhang, climb roof to face. Trend up L on scoops to top out.

As you keep walking past the bouldering wall, you'll encounter the 10m high Pyramid Pinnacle on your L. This climb (that is actually marked with what looks like an upside down "U") starts behind this pinnacle. Up the face to some gear in the diagonal crack and then up from there possibly. 20+m?

Same as Heiroglyphics but move a little further R up arete.

Starts to the right of Swinging Giants at Feast for fools. Up the right seem to Insight patch for anchors.

Start at Googly Eyes and follow the natural seem traversing left and up diagonal. Do not use the rock behind/beside you. Step over bulge to anchors of GE / DP.

Even though it follows the natural seem, the route is a little bit contrived as you could easily scramble next to it near Scramble.

Up diagonal crack to lip and step out left to interesting features. Up ad trend slightly R to tree and DRB.

Start up Coffee and confessions and finish out R.

Links in from Hindsight to Vision pitch 2 anchors.

Climb on some unbelievable scoops followed by a crimpy crux to the midway anchor.

Scramble across the loose, washed-out gully to small piece at base and an awkward belay. Up to FH and up trending R slightly to next FH. Continue up to TCC lookout and belay.

Starts approximately 10m R of UWF on far R of detached block, just L of the chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Possibly no pro and look like it fully blanks out on the top section.

As you look at the RH face of Castle Hill you'll notice a big traversing bite shaped crack across the lower section. Start on the LHS of The Big Bite.

1. 40m 8. Up face slab on minimal gear, avoiding the tree & widow maker in crack, till you reach a fig tree root with an old sling on it.

2. 40m 14. Across tricky section on choss (fun) to easier but run-out section which leads to some great rock, then a long ledge. (Remember to protect 2nd.) Belay at end of ledge.

3. 30m 6. At last, heaps of gear & absolutely no stress. DBB on ledge.

4. 40m 16. Down-climb crack & slab back-clipping all the way so the 2nd, who will effectively be on lead, will be protected. If this doesn't appeal, then rap off DBB.

The Overhang provides shade all day.

Starts 4m R of Fembot. Faintly marked but extremely hard to see the paint. Slab route up nice-looking crystally rock. May have some gear a few metres off the deck, but then nothing until right up the top. Uncertain finish & descent (Maybe a walk off L and then a tree rap).

On the far R, there is a detached pillar that forms an offwidth corner with the main buttress.

1. Up off-width crack and avoid large loose chockstone. Continue to follow degrading crack to natural anchor belay.

2. Up grass and loos rocks. To next off-width section near the top. Up slab or crack to fig tree belay.

Sit start move up on small ledges the top out with toe hook.

Walk up ramp R then traverse across L to top out.

Same boulder as Stegosaurus and Morning Routine, opposite UFO. Sit start. Up the arête with side pull to top out.

Easy climb on a very featured slab, middle of the wall starting next to flake on the ground. Good landing.

Stand start for Veinous

Follows narrow vein up the slab with a few small but obvious pockets along it

Flake crack left side of the slab

Stick clip first bolt. A thoughtful start to establish yourself on the arete shared with Sliced.

Follow up crack full of vines and green ant nests on the back side of Dream Catcher

Fun short climb located directly behind/west of the main lazy wall anchor bolts. Can attach a top rope anchor around the large boulder at the top. Start from the prominent jug just before the diagonal crack then work a heel hook up into the crack, there is a pinch in the small “cave” but it’s quiet a squeeze as there is a lack of good holds (very crimpy but sharp). Also the crux. From here it’s a easy climb to the top.

Stand start.

Starting on crimps, throw for jug and mantle.

A small wall with an easy warm up climb.

Sit start. Up and slightly left with a mantle.

On the more 'white' rock left of "Fig Jam", likewise making a direct ascent. With similar technical moves, great for beginners.

Stand start, follow fracture lines up, top out

Up the left side aerate then top out.

Standing start in dihedral; move up using the obvious holds. When you have reached the horizontal crack, follow it left to finish.

As you might have guessed, originally climbed barefoot. Stars at "Mud Wasp" move straight up with obvious holds until top-out.

Nice and obvious with a standing start and slopers throughout. Located 1m left of "Frogger".

Found on top of the second set of boulders. A super easy problem with a nice view at the top. Be careful of drop-off.

Traverse across the wall (L to R) in frog squat keeping feet above the lower fracture. Climb up and top out on the far right side above cave.

Hang above cave and slap up to right side jug (RH), top out

Layback start. Lunge optional (RH).

Up arete

Up the slab to bludge (crux) and finish up slab to option DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse) or natural boulder belay.

Requires 6 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm (plus two for DBB).

Enjoyable slabbing on Quality rock. Start of small boulder, stick clip the first FH and follow the rest to the top.

Trending left of the line of bolts on edges to enter and climb through the crescent feature, then follow the thin seam until it ends. Finishing up with well featured slab. Bolting is a little closer than most other boobook routes to help less confident leaders transition to the crags style.

Climb through nice positive features then balance through the small bulge crux and up the slab above. Closer bolting than the boobook standard, though can still feel spicy at the crux.

A bold lead! The first 8m is unprotected until you get established in the groove/crack follow the groove/crack until it slabs out and traverse left a few meters to Blood Donations Bolt Belay.

Obvious crackline