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The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

A very popular route, and one that seems to be a good introduction to the grade - probably due to the plethora of bolts at the crux. Start as for GJ, stick clip recommended, then take the righthand line of bolts off this log.

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

Start from the big belay ledge down hill from Saxicoline. Stick clip the first bolt, climbing upwards to a good rest. The wall gets “off vertical”, as you make your way across the “shield” feature. Classic moves all the way, punching upwards to the high anchor.

Stick clip. Up to 2nd bolt of Tsunami then head left and up past 2 more. Good bouldery moves the whole way.

Awesomely popular kneebar fest, a “must do” crag classic! Usually always draws on it, but take a long draw for the 6th bolt if not. Then commit to the second half and enjoy the air below you. 2nd pitch is not completely established.

1. 20m (27) - 9 bolts

2. 17m 'Open Project' left and up from the anchor. All the way up to the high anchor. Bolting not finished

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed.

Rebolted 2004. A great climb! There is a slight right hand variant that avoids the crux and the best moves which is referred to as Dirty Linen, 26. Roman

Climb The Green Room to the ledge and instead of going right, climb directly up without deviating past 4 UB's to another anchor.

Traverse right to left as for Cruel Sea into the heuco, but then cut out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out.

Kiu Hei Chu | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso (No cut beta)

Sustained and thin technical climbing, one of the best 26's at bell. This route is the full package and should be on your todo list.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

Batman start. Long and varied with a sting in the tail. Popular!

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

One of the classic test piece 26's in the mountains that keeps you working from start to finish.

Start up Onions to 3rd bolt then head left into Veteran's Affair. Rebolted 28-03-19

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Start as for previous but once off the ground, step right to first bolt in R-leaning black corner. Up this til possible to lean left and clip UB on steep wall. Punchy moves up this (2 UB's) then easier headwall.

A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. Probably the most popular route on Taipan - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel! Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake. Clip some cams as the start is easy but delicate and unprotected.

1. Carefully up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.

2. (15m, 34, 8 bolts) The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".

Short flake to start. Finishes up left above small roof. Partially rebolted.

Possibly the best rock and route in 'Centennial Glen'. A perennial favourite. Start at the vague arete on the left side of the terrace (5m left of 'Junket' Pumper) by mantelling on a ledge.

Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25.

Climb the fun first 3/4 of "the boob" and then traverse merrily left on more unlikely pockets. A tricky sequence gains you access into the end crux of “Cosmic Caveman”. Classy movements on holds that are never too poor or spikey. *9/05/17 moved anchors slightly, couldn't remove one of the old anchors as it was stripped, don't use captive ring - will remove.

Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs.

About V4 - old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted.

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems.

Start: Sit

Marcus Lim

Two excellent and very different boulder problems. Soft if you can crimp. Start about 5m L of the wet chimney.

Start from the small boulder. Powerful over horizontal moves through the ceiling then up the hard steep wall above.

Jumpfest. Dyno your way to glory. Was 26, maybe still is. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh. Head right and then up through a couple of big moves.

Gabriele G

Start 5m R of WO. Another excellent long route, with a confounding crux. Originally 24 but confirmed 26 these days and even so it's not soft. And once you do link past the crux, keep your wits about you on the technical finish!

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds.

CMCC

This route is an absolute blast and a NSW classic. It climbs the longest line through the massive roof. Excellent. Start up the corner and slab on the left hand side of the Grease Cave.

Sit start, out the middle of the roof finishing left over the rounded lip.

Jack Folkes

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in The Lower Main Cliff just past Owl Pillar.

Stickclip the rightmost RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here at grade 22, but now continues leftwards with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor. Keep left at the second last bolt and stay on the line-of-most-resistance—breaking right through the corner feature is LSD.

Start left of the arête. Past tricky slab, then continue up right to arete, good holds take you up the steepness and a pump crux towards the top. Anchors are guarded by a tricky throw on pumped arms. Resistance climbing at its best!

Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat.

Straight up from the LH belay past 6 FH on nice orange rock to the break below the steep wall. The business starts here (permadraw). Very nice climbing on interesting features give classic moves all the way to the chains. 60m rope required for the top lower off or 70m to get back to the ground.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

Bang out the steep start, break right and keep pumping.

Recently re-bolted.

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face.

Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level. Has been led as one giant 70m pitch from the ground!

1. 27m (26) Very sustained face climbing. The red and black face with shallow pockets and flakes. Considered hard for 26.

2. 20m (22) This pitch is best done by moving the belay 10m left to Microdermabrasia, or doing a runout climb up to join the pitch at the third bolt. Out right, up a bit then back left to belay on comfy ledge. Contrived in the middle.

3. 25m (23) Right most route off the high ledge. A bit of a pumper with big exposure! Fantastic big move to finish.

An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers!

If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!).

Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun!

The original route up the right side of the wall, to anchors beneath final bulge. This used to be 26.

Beautiful face, roof, and rightward traverse. Staple and bolt anchor. Back clean the traverse until the 2 rings at start of roof. Rethread left to right to clean face normally.

A bit of monkeying around. The glue is cracked all the way around the first bolt.

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

Takes a direct line after the 2nd bolt (basically eliminating the jug rest to the right). Contrived, but if you want the 26 label, this is the way to do it. Has over the years been muddled with the RHV (25 - and the obvious line using the jug).

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

Sit-start at the back of the cave on obvious holds and follow the nice line out of the cave. Mantle to top-out.

Start at base tot he left and use good holds to first bolt, then ape your way to the break for a rest. Traverse with poor feet to crux then powerful moves to the top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMIDRboCFb4

Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side.

Awesome pumper. Face, roof, then however you like up the headwall, all the options have been done so use the holds, or don’t, whatever.

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake to top out on the far right side of the wall.

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

Start up the rungs about 7 metres right from arete. Sweet Mountains climbing.

From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards.

Jump from one break to the next and traverse left as far as you like. The grade is the number of inches you are under 6'7' times by 2/3.

Phillip Booth Dylan Hill

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

Sit-start on low pockets. Powering straight up and veering right, leads you to an easy mantle out. An exceedingly popular face-climb!

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

Thin start and up to long moves into the first crux of 97% Fat Free, then trend up and left to jugs below roof. Follow jug rail out left, turning lip and finishing up final headwall. Has a recent addition of a redirect biner before the roof for when cleaning.

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?)

Start under the cave, traverse right, crux is move through hanging block then right onto face and up.

Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall.

One bolt extension of Jaqueline Hyde.

Classic at the grade. Great funky moves on good rock up the slab to awesome conclusion on fairly unique scoops. Rebolted 2004.

Short, steep and good. In addition to power you will need loads of body tension to thug your way up this little baby. The first half is one of the better warmups for Mr Wall.

Uber classic steep pumper. Think 'Way of All Flesh' but longer, steeper and likely a touch harder. Start towards right side of main ledge below bolt on slab and corner feature above. Best to belay off first rung on ledge.

A powerful, overhanging line.

Place high nut with a stick and boulder into line from either side. Up the line which veers right at rooflet. Move left for final few moves to rings.

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

Ross pulled himself out of a slump and sent this in 26 shots, about 4 every weekend for many weekends! Stick clip first bolt. This beautiful right sweeping, ever hardening line is worth singing and dancing about!

Eliminate for 'Battle of the Shirts'.

Sit start then up the two beautiful pockets to the slot and mantle over. All other holds on the face are off.

Phillip Booth

Start with a big throw around the lip heading left past rings. Gather your thoughts, bust through the crux and keep trucking to the end.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.

Another route that is unfairly overshadowed by its 'three star' neighbours. Up the log and first two bolts as for The Eviscerator then traverse 5m L to the lefthand line of bolts.

A pocket boulder gem. Tricky and funky start getting easier leading up to the sand pit. Get a good rest then knuckle down through and couple big moves and a wicked stretchy pocket boulder top.

Off break through crimps and pinch then jump to sidepull up right and delicately to top. Sit start has been done but it's not worth it.

Sean Morris

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

The tricky off angle arete, used to be 25.

Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?