Vías en Australia para grado seleccionado

Good stuff! Starts at the same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly right to first of three black FHs. There is a pronounced crux lunge at 2nd FH. Rap chains at top.

As for ZZ to the first ledge. Hard moves up the left side of the smooth wall passing a single FH.

Start on obvious jug up to crimps. Tricky top out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av5rPtnHiRU

Right hand edge has broken leaving a good side pull and making the problem significantly easier

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave.

Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required.

Right of 'Match Fit' - start on generous undercling, throw for good holds and continue up.

Steep slab and overhang on left side of overhanging bowl on left side of Eldorado.

3 meters to the right of Jimmy's 5. Powerful moves through lower face on good left hand sidepull with bad feet. Balancy move to the Grinning Reaper jug and carefully mantle the top. Tyrone Clements

A challenging start!

This climb is so sustained, and doesn't let up till the last move, with a punchy finish. Absolutely b-b-b-beautiful line, well protected and flows oh so nicely.

A Sassy problem working the nose

Sit start at common spot under left side of the overhang.

Move up to the dominant ledge and then power up the rounded arete directly above you.

Once your hands hit the top, top out via the right side of the arete.

Start: Sit start on small edges on the left hand cave wall.

On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs.

Sit start on the block and seam under the small rooflet. Move left and up the flakeline to top out over the nose. *Note a intermediary hold has broken off just above the block. Completion of the problem is still possible and maintains the V3 grade

Problem is on protruding vertical seam. Sit-start on side-pulls and extend to horizontal crack. Work your way through the large gaston to achieve higher crack hold, ultimately gaining left crimp on the block for the final throw to the big ledge.

Original line (B7 * * *) ends at finish pocket of Benign and Brownies. ~3 more traverse moves -- felt way too dirty and chossy/unsafe. Won't alter the grade but still worth doing! Taken, transcribed and paraphrased from Dazza's Boiling Pot guide.

A big move off the jug to the top. West side of the North Boulder

A nice variant finish to TOTGA, but it simply isn't as good as the others. Climb about half way up TOTGA, then step R (following a seam) to a bolt on the wall. Continue out R and up the arete passing another bolt. Easily to the top.

Start: As for DD. Up and left at roof. Shared chain lower off with DD.

Start as for Orient Express and blast straight up out of the cave. Cleaned with Matt's hands on first ascent...May need a brush still.

Sit start low on the 2 good flat holds. Mantle up.

Sit start from the crimps low down to the incut then straight up.

A fun mix of moves. Start approximately 20m R of the prow at ground level L of the Grey wall. Up and R over small roof past steep pull onto the slab. Up the slab past a few intricate moves.

Start 2m L of route on FHs. Up through small overlaps to DBB

Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof.

Upper Cave.

A V3 that looks like a V5... Sit-start on the rightside of the big hollow scoop and climb up to the big sloper. Topout leftwards via a better hold.

Sit start rail left of Penis Cling side pull. Use sloper with right hand and finish out left.

Deep Wounds leads (in)to Dark Scars. Sit-start on the right side with right hand on jug, traverse left, and mantel.

The first climb that you get to when walking in from the fire trail. Climb up the left arete to some hard moves up a vertical face, eases off to some cool balance moves on the right trending ramp.

Best of these vertical routes. A good pump! Bouldery subtle arete start then easier but still excellent orange wall to finish. Was put up before the next route, graded 22 on first ascent.

The obvious central line up the slab of the Tweedledee boulder following the layback crack weakness. Sit start at the base of the offset crack with a right hand crimp and the lowest left hand small sidepull. Pull on (crux) and then follow the crack/seam all the way to the top to an easy mantle. Established without chalk or a mat but one mat is highly recommended! More than that however and you will significantly lower the grade.

Will get your heart pumping.

First climb up the ramp from beehive tree. Undercut start right of ferny crack- boulder up then traverse left towards cracked arête.

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

On the boulder 3m uphill from the Raptor boulder. Squeeze up the double arete from a sit start.

Jump start to jug then over.

Hard start (stick clip the 2nd bolt if your not solid) that leads into nice wall climbing with a bit of a move at the bulge.

Sit-start under the hanging corner at the left end of the face. Throw right to the jug, then stack a couple of crimps on your way to the right. Top out on some open-handed ledges.

Up for snowman then diagonal up the wall in from arete, then to arete near little roof. From here go right then up to hole and anchors. Makes iceman obsolete as it should.

Start just left of the thin crack 10m down and R of Amen Corner (as for VotD). Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Quote "One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries." If you trust RPs in Blueys rock you need a reboot. Either boulder boldly or use a high runner in Amen Corner. Take care.

Start very low on edges and traverse the obvious weakness, top out to finish.

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

A low bolt then try not to die above that.

Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.

The thin crack to a dodgy looking block, then two bolts up the face above.

Arete above septic penguins.Funky and bouldery.

Lovely climbing with excellent protection.

Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes:

Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends).

The first bolt has been chopped on this route. Start at wide left-facing flake 10m left of Obscure Pedicure.. Up flake roof, then hand traverse left along break and finish with rising traverse to anchors on Jack Spaniel. Clean on second.

5m left of DF

Classic and varied. Same start as Pocks and straight up thin crack and wall above. Claudette Colvin was actually the person who wouldn't give up her seat - see drunk history .

Sit start on the jug of You're Too Old To Be A Jedi. Traverse left onto slopers then up one level to the shelf above. Continuing traversing left until you join Horned Banthas half way up. Finish on final hold of Horned Banthas.

Starting just below the chossy approach slab is an overhanging crack. A superb climb with great hand jams, fingerlocks, laybacks, fist jams and a spot of off-widthing. Rap off the back.

Climb between Drunk and Disorderly and Feeding Frenzy, tuff move at 3rd bolt then make your way up to double rings. Last 6 meters is an open project. Enjoy:)

As for Luv Handles, then step out across the void and continue 7m along the lip of the cave to finish at the lonely chain. Guaranteed to give you a whole body pump.

Run up straight into the middle and jump up direct for the lip. Don't slip!

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

Start on the thin crimps.

Sit start on the left arete holds then slightly right.

Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge.

Climb Direct Start to Double Entendre to anchors, have quick breather before stepping left and up over bulge for an exciting finish to anchors.

Thin face between Miniaturization and The Count's arete. Clip bolts on The Count?

Elimination traverse route. Start low at Jacked and move right to good L undercling at ceiling base. Route trends under ceiling to reach hold directly above painted 9. Finally, stay on overhang to Climb 10 arête top-out. L shelf ledges used in the traverse routes are out to keep low feet/hands as V3; R boulder out like Climb 10.

Slap for'letterbox', go right to pockets then long reach to top.

Start: Sit

Short, sharp pump, almost always in the shade.

Continue up track beyond 'Spellbinder' to a steep wall right on the track with a couple of fixed hangers. Steep wall past 2 BR leads to an easier finish (medium cam, red Camalot or similar) and lower-off.

Sit start matched on crimp, then head for the pocket above the lip via the big hold. Head right along the lip using good pinches before heading straight up the slab using good holds on the horizontal break. Arete and right hand side of bloc are out!

Layback the arete to the left

Start at the back of the cave and climb out to finish Moon Walker.

Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate.

Start: Right of F on main face Up past balancy flake following orange streak. Jugs above anchors.

Start: 2m right of BE. Straight up wall under flake. 4 bolts to shared anchors with BE. Rebolted 2021

S0. Link from the crack into Cave Left. Follow the crack up (not eliminate) then dyno out right, joining in to Cave Left.

Start at the big, big undercling. Climb to the break, then up the arete to the top. Easy but high, and oh, so good.

Climb the little face veering right

Start: Standing

Start with LH on slope RH in crack. Up and over the top without using wall to right.

For more of a challenge start with RH in crack on underside.

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

Up the flake on big holds, with some steep moves at the top to a DBB

Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish.

Editor's, but after big 1st move traverse left to the split finger hold and dyno lefthand to the 'nose' jug. Match up and it's done, or topout.

Sit start on shared start with 'Mystique', left hand to non in cut sidepull directly above and slap to the right after adjusting body position. continue up the V0 slab to the right.

Note on FA: its so damn contrived, I am convinced I am the one who would do it.

Same start as Cosmic Thing, at the 3rd bolt, launch right straight into the crux going around bulge, take a grade off if you keep going up Cosmic Thing and traverse around the crux (give it a go as its well protected).

Scramble R along the ledge from the block at the start of Pritchard's Neuralgia. Starts up the easy corner, can be done as a sport route but worth taking a medium cam for before the first bolt. Wild overbolting mitigates the dubious jug.

Easy first half into thin moves up the second half

Start: 2m left of FARC on pocketed wall. Up the overhanging pocketed wall past 3 new FH to DBB.

Up left of Jester. This can give climbers with knee troubles the chance to go to hospital.

Obvious bear hug arête, like holding refrigerator block.

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

Initially climbed as a bold ground up trad lead, this line is now a popular sport adventure! The tall line to the right of the Recollection cave. Begin at a small finger crack below the big telephone thread. Follow the orange runnels, through the roof then charge up the headwall. Brilliant.

Sit start next to tree and go straight up

Right hand sloper, up on small holds. Sidepull to the left is off.

Start on ramp.

Start as for CoD but head left.