Vías en South Australia para grado seleccionado

Hard traverse right to the bolts

So bold that it scared Warwick Baird. Says it all.

An outstanding pitch filled with variety. Start up the steep crack then follow the rightwards trending line through the radical crack, up to a bolt then onto the magical headwall. A 70m rope gets you to the ledge with some faff.

Everyone Dies Alone

The incredible diagonal rib on the steep orange Guru Wall.

Sit Start as for Theo's Warm Up then traverse right around arete and top out.

The steep orange wall with black stripes just around the corner right of PJ. An unfinished Matt Adams project with 2 bolts and finger pocket in between. Not much else.

Start right of T.M.L. on a slopey diagonal. Clip the low bolt and climb through the crux on small holds. Enjoy big moves on big holds trending right to finish at the chains. 6 bolts + chains. Matty Broadbent Closed Project 2016.

An old Meffin project. Start in the rightward leaning crack trending right, then trend back left halfway up. 7 bolts + chains.

Start on the cheat stone and step up into the leaning undercling crack. Trend right past a double crux at the 2nd and 3rd bolts to gain good holds, then follow the sequential horizontal breaks into a 3rd and potent crux. 6 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016

Located on the ledge directly under Pride Rock. Crawl into the small cave and start matched on a good edge. Move out and up the overlapped overhanging corner and mantle it out.

Start as for 'Every Bit of Everything'. Make the first few moves of this problem and at the start of the overlapping corner continue left along the overhanging arete to a deep one finer pocket. Make a big move to a good hold and mantle it out.

Start as for "High On His Own Supply", but bust straight up into the mantle on the right-hand side of the lip. There follows some techy slab climbing quite high off the deck. Again, top out with relief.

Stand (or jump) start to large horizontal right of yakkas, gain a high ledge on the left then top out via the V-crease. Flat landing.

Sit start at the base of the rounded arete on the right hand end of the wall. Shimmy up then left onto the face. Climb the face on small holds to a dynamic crux followed by good jugs to top out on. This line will separate the Men from the Boys and the Women from the Girls. With enough pads (3+) the landing can be made relatively flat.

Sit start as for Chasm Spasm, traverse all the way across left and keep going to finish out through Chicken swing ding

Sit start as for Shanes Traverse then make hard moves right through roof and flop over the lip

Sit start on small side pull and crimp below Gluten Free Doobies. Make hard first move to big jug on gluten free doobies and finish up this

Sit start low on 2 small pocket jugs (right foot out in small crack). Up through good holds to large weakness in lip, pull crux through lip and up committing face. Quality! (may need a lot of brushing after winter or a big swell)

Start as for Shenzi, instead of heading into the crux of Shenzi keep going right through the roof to a monster jug involving 360 moves. From here blast out the constricting weakness at the lip and up very high face. Super good fun! (may need a lot of brushing after winter or a big swell)

Amazing overhanging arete climbing. Sit start on large jug right of Mufasa. Tough opening moves to a great finish! Rocks on the right are out. Another classic from the one and only Mick Wells.

A classic of the area! Sit start on good incut's, move up to the large side pull and prepare to go big. After the all points off dyno, a few nice techy moves lead to the top.

Sit start on left hand side arete. Traverse right into the start hold of the V3. Keep traversing right and one on the good hold on the slab had up and out. Tricky first half leads to a cruisy finish.

Up left hand side of face 2m to the right of Sorry Andrea.

Slightly right of Spastic face. Follows bolts in centre of wall to chains.

Open project. Clip the first bolt of Sandy Ledge then head slightly right to bolt and tackle bulge head on finish at chains. Very bouldery.

Previously the open project. Line starts a metre right of 'Slide Off'. Stand start. Grab two opposing sidepulls and make a hard deadpoint for 'the hold', match, then don't lose it on the slopey top out. In the V6 or 7 category for dyno's. Significantly harder than other 5's in the same area.

Start as for Darth Vader then at the 1st bolt of that route head left into the roof to a break, then bouldery moves direct through this past an edge lead to a jug, then into Darth Vader Extension at its last bolt.

Link episode 1 & 2

Sit-starts on the good edge left of the marked Olympus start (just right of 'Gladiator' Direct). Big move to the square jug at the start of Olympus, then reach right for underclings on the left edge of the small cave (feet on pillar only). Grab a positive edge on the lip, then dyno right to the large flared pinch. Swing feet onto the right-side of the cave and drop down to the finger jug at the start of 'The 'Warm Up' Traverse'. Has been linked into The 'Warm Up Traverse' & onwards up 'Japetus' Direct - which is worth 27 for effort!

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

Originally mistaken for Simon Wilson's 'LAT', which itself was given the alternative name by Matt Adams back in the day. This name was retained for historical purposes. This has now been modified slightly (2020) to cause offense to muffins, as opposed to hand warmers (you can't please everyone). It had been TR'd by Stu Williams back in the '90s,but was followed by a lead ascent by Steve in November 2014. Start as for Barad Dur to ledge. Tip toe left to directly below the first bolt on Pizazz. Trend up a line right of the Pizazz bolts to a horizontal level with the 3rd. A powerful undercling move leads to crimps and an increasingly run out crux section with gear (0.75 cam) awaiting near the top. Employ a good belayer.

Start up Muesli (trad gear) then reverse the traverse of Extra G Connection straight into the crux of Geronimo's Cadillac, then finish as for Geronimo's Corvette. Longest route on the wall.

Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move.

From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G.

Takes a direct line after the 2nd bolt (basically eliminating the jug rest to the right). Contrived, but if you want the 26 label, this is the way to do it. Has over the years been muddled with the RHV (25 - and the obvious line using the jug).

Take Geronimo's Cadillac (direct version) to the half height rest, then launch past 2 more bolts through a final boulder problem right of the original finish. Slightly harder than GC.

Not particularly popular and somewhat contrived. Still worth it, particularly if you have route fitness (crux at the top). Follows Crossroads to the roof, then breaks right past underclings to gain the thin letterbox slot in the hanging headwall. Choose a sequence (dynamic or static option) then finish as for North Terrace Stroll. Extended draws for both headwall bolts are mandatory.

Climb Crossroads to the roof (where it joins Pivoting Head) then traverse right above the lip of the roof to the draw above the North Terrace Stroll roof, and keep going right to the KPDM chains. Unsure on the grade - but felt harder than Tim and easier than Crossroads Direct.

Once considered to be 'the 29 project' - that was until Mick waltzed up it during his Summit love affair - grading it 7b+ (26) - at a time when he was doing 28's in two or three tries. Takes The Stroll to the roof, then traverses left into large underclings to gain the Crossroads RHV crux, and finishes as for that. Previously unrecorded. Could be 28.

Start up Crossroads, go into The Stroll at its rest point, then prior to main (top) roof - traverse right into KPDM. Finish as for this.

KPDM with the Crossroads start. Crossroads for first 2/3 bolts, then traverse right into The Stroll gaining the big jugs up and left of the fixed 'biner, then finish up the remainder of KPDM.

Takes the right-hand major roof weakness. Start as for NTS and follow it to the blue 'biner. Keep on track heading left but then kick back right through the overlap to the lip jug. Make a hard slab move to reach the break, then blast straight through the main roof via the obvious line (fixed 'biner). Back jump from the last bolt to clean.

Climb KPDM to the top roof, then traverse with trepidation leftwards to the finish of 'North Terrace Stroll'. Could do with another bolt!

To screwgate on Stroll then up and right to Peregrine belay

KPDM Direct, slightly harder than KP, but easier than IP! Takes North Terrace Stroll to the fixed biner (2nd bolt) then fires directly up through the post-crux moves of Intellectual Property and rejoins KPDM at it's 3rd bolt. Consistent!

Start up 'Peregrine' RHV until through its crux. Clip the bolt of 'Brotherhood' and traverse left into Itchy Fingered. Continue and finish as for 'North Terrace Stroll'.

Climb Eddie or Tim to the chain then against your better judgement, launch up and left through a runout extension to finish on the KPDM anchor.

Link 'TITG" into 2nd pitch of peregrine.

Has had more laps run on it than the 'Adelaide' Oval... Start as for Eddie, then trend rightwards to the big roof. Clip the lip bolt, dyno, and finish directly at the chain. A tad harder than Eddie.

A worth while traverse which will test your shoulders and has enough independent moves to be worth while. Start as for Eddie and climb to it’s second bolt. Now climb directly right to the second bolt of Dudley via a big span move. Then move up and right via another span move through the second bolt of Don’t Rain on the Parade, climb Parade to its the mantle, then traverse right to the chains of Natives are Restless. (Or finish up Rain on the Parade for the full package - Eddie and Dudleys Excellent Adventure)

The full package! Climb Hutt Street Homies to the Mantle of Don’t Rain on the Parade and finish as for that route (@ Kill Like a Madam / Peregrine p3 chains)

A varied and sensationally exposed single pitch climbing the entire height of the top cave.Start as for endive,but instead of heading to the corner (and belay ledge) stay in the crack, a couple of committing moves above gear lead to the traverse on endive's second pitch, follow this traverse to the line of bolts in the middle of the cave and follow the bolts to the small ledge a couple of metres above the last bolt. Best to lower from the top bolt to avoid trashing the area above the cave.

Come Out Fighting past the small two-finger pocket to the pinch then to the hold just under the main roof.

As per name. Clutch into Boing is the Word.

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

Takes the furthest righthand line up via good pockets to the roof - then strenuous moves left to the chain.

Start up Fat neck then traverse righ to the sloper then right to the small undercling in the roof and up via the big LH sidepull and crimps.

Start as for Chocolate Aftertaste High but drop down to low level traverse from jugs using LH pocket/sidepull. Motor rightwards via a good open pocket and a ‘fin’ pinch, then into the original line at the 'drop down' pocket. Finish as for Chocolate Aftertaste High.

(Weaker than Hot Chocolate). A higher sitstart than Hot Chocolate. A decent sequence in its own right. Sit start with LH on Hot Chocolate sidepull and RH on its good undercling ie two moves into Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and punch out to the good LH sidepull pocket and top out right as for Chocolate (aka the Pinch). The wads will probably think this is a V5. FA Klem Loskot (from the true sit).

The V6 stand start variant to Kid Indestructible. Start as for Benelli's stand start.

Starts back of cave with feet on rock platform. Through ‘bunny ears’ undercling, out to large sloper hold, then out to obvious ‘shark fin’ hold on lip and up. Finish on large sloper/jug out and left past niche.

4-move extension to Stalker - finishing on Tao.

the extension to Toe to Toe finishing as for Tao/Butchers.

Cocktoe into Stalker then back into Cocktoe via the LH pocket (missing the breadloaf pinch). Strangely never recordered on this site.

Direct start to Decadent Frogs. Super technical wall climb, only about 15 moves, but it packs it in.

Start in jug under the overhang. Move left along the bottom of the boulder then up and out via the crack.

Start as for original but once at the roof head directly over the centre and up left hand side of the slab. Keep out of the right hand corner. A powerful sequence over the roof!

The thin seam in the centre of the wall (3 bolts to chains)

A hidden gem, well worth the trip! Jump start off the boulder to jug on the right, then a series of acrobatic moves gain the right side of the arete. The original line toproped by the Meffin brothers follows the right side of the arete to the top. A subsequent solo by Steve Kelly (with no mats!) ducked around to the left. This has now also seen a ground up solo by Trent Searcy. Bouldering the original would be committing.

A 6 foot dyno. One of the best at its grade.

Start: Obvious starting jug (generally well chalked) in middle of wall - starting matched, then jump for the top.