Vías en West Cape Howe para grado seleccionado

One of the best climbs for its grade in Australia! Climb the center hand/off-width crack that divides The Old Man pillar. Take big cams for top section.(can be done without big cams there are horizontal cracks that take smaller gear but bigger cams might make finding placements easier)

Hangers required.

Abseil to the large ledge and start 5 metres to the right of the second pitch of Little Divil between the two shallow cracks. Direct line straight up the steepening face. Crux near the top. Belay on large ledge at top and scramble up the rocks left to finish. 6 bolts (need hangers) and natural gear. FA D.Reed and P.Maher Great little addition to this area. Note: due to the friable nature of the existing flakes and poor natural protection, it was decided to install the bolts to make this route more usable for future climbers.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-west-cape-howe/

Abseil off bolts to the most northerly abseil gully (marked by large cairn) to a large ledge halfway down cliff line at the end of the gully. Climb up right of arete and go left over roof and up continue up arete to finish.

From base of abseil gully climb cracks on left up face to overlap before moving right. Layback the flake then head straight up.

(i) (18) Start as for A Shot At Redemption, move delicately up and over the arête (crux), then step left onto the face. Follow the aesthetic meandering crack up the face to belay ledge. (ii) (15) Continue up large blocks to finish.

Follow left trending weaknesses ad cracks to obvious large horizontal crack and construct belay. Climb up vertical cracks to cave and skirt out rightwards.

Start as for plumb Jamb then go right and through roof rather than escaping left. continue up seam until about 2m lower than the plumb Jamb belay ledge. Place extended pro then traverse back and finish as for Plumb Jamb.

Abseil off bolts on top of Supergroove. 60m rope will get you down groove a fairway where it is possible to scramble down 10m to large ledge. Otherwise, do a double abseil. Fist pitch: Climb up vertical weaknesses on right side of arete to a small roof. Climb left of roof, then out left to double bolt belay (needs hangers) on a small triangular ledge. Second pitch: Keep right of arete.

As for Orion but start directly below blunt arete in front of headwall at the base of climb on platform. Take direct line straight up the wall and continue on as for Orion to 1st belay

Takes the line up the west facing wall on the buttress to the left of Needles Aye. Start just left of the large flake and trend up and slightly left past three ring bolts. Through the overlap and up the middle of the slab passing some more bolts and various natural protection to finish at eyebolts. J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley. Feb. 11

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Nice climbing and great rock on the north facing wall with the obvious diagonal crack, (below Body Builder). You can get to the start by abseiling from the top of WOB (north side of gully) then trending south to a directional bolt (american hanger) and down to the chains on the spacious ledge. Step across the crevasse onto the middle of the wall and a bolt. Head up and slightly left past another two bolts toward the diagonal crack, along this then straight through the overlap past two more bolts to finish at the DBB (Hangers required). Take small to medium cams. J. O Herlihy, K Hartley. Feb 12.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Located on the south facing wall of the huge block at the top of First Route Gully. Approach by abseil from the two bolts at the top (hangers required). Belay in the gully at the base of the short wide crack. Up this, then climb the superb clean slab and arête passing 3 bolts (hangers required) with small to medium cams in the horizontal breaks.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/ K. Hartley, M. Rosser. Feb. 11

The right trending hand crack opposite Fishbone Arete finishing at a lower-off. K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy Feb 12.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/

Rap 60m or so from the two glue in staples just over the edge (you can scramble to them safely). You will rap 'into space' over the roofs. Make a semi-hanging belay at the start of the steeper climbing. L1 (18, 25m(?)): head up the steep hand and fist cracks on excellent rock, strait through the roofs (easier than it looks), with a step right at the crux. Belay when it eases off. L2 (14 35m(?)): an easy pitch on poorer rock.

?FA Rob Wall / Konstanze Stuebner, Dec '19. Its hard to believe noone has climbed this, as the first pitch is really three star - the jamming feels more like USA than WA !. Anyone out there know?

Thank God I’m An Atheist 68m 18 Pitch 1, 33m 18. A variation avoiding the thin crack on ‘Epitaph’. From the thin crack continue left to another vertical crack leading to the ‘Tombstone’ ledge. Jonas Hollingworth – 01 Jun 14

Pitch 2. Same as pitch 2 of Tombstone.

Chimney/Groove/Head-Wall

On the cross 50m 17 i. 20m: start at the blocky corner which leads to a right trending wide flake, the obvious line located in between Identified Flying Stitch Plate and Three’s a Crowd at the Styx Gully South Side. Good climbing but flaky crust makes the first 20m interesting until the large stepped ledge is reached. Big cams up to #5 recommended. Extend this pitch another 15m if rock is not sound enough… ii. 30m: Up the chossy corner to the top being careful not to break and drop anything down. FA: 26/01/2014 Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/west-cape-howe-3-new-routes/

A short hidden gem perfect for a warm up lead, top rope run or when the rest of the Throne Room cracks are wet.

A few moves of face climbing to gain a fist crack. Punch it as it starts to get steep, following the crack up then slightly right to gain the upper hand size crack to top. Stellar climb, just wish it was longer!

Follow cracks to lower-offs of Gatling.

Abseil 50m down the south side of the huge flake (yellow peril) from the top of Beggars wall. There is a rap station on the edge of the boulder with the small cave (bolt plates required). The route starts about 15m or so up from the base of the cliff at a DBB. Step left onto the flake at the fixed hanger and climb the edge of the flake up the slab following the thin cracks. At the top of the flake step right and follow the fixed hangers through the steepening headwall with a couple of mid-sized cams along the way. Up through under-clings to the horizontal break then traverse left a couple of metres to a vertical crack. Follow the crack for a few metres then climb the slab past another bolt. Very small wires and micro cams required. Take plenty of draws.

A great long pitch up the face to the right of the yellow peril flake. Starts at the same belay as showpony following br's up the steepening slab (bolt plates required). Take gear for the horizontal cracks and after it gets steep, trend-right to a trad belay on the ledge below the huge roof.

The following routes are reached by abseiling from the two hex bolts accessed from the large vegetated ledge system. The climb starts from the lower ledge on the main face at a natural belay. Climb up and leftwards along hand crack until at the thin crack/seam. Up past a ringbolt to the steepening headwall. Balance up through the horizontal cracks to a thin section and another bolt. Up the short flared groove to finish at a trad belay on the ledge below the large roof.

The first route on Theives Wall. Access is via a short abseil from the fixed hangers at the top of the crag down to the large vegetated ledge system, then walk east for 30m or so. Climb the hand crack which starts off a tad wide, through a bulge then continue up and leftward along the curving crack to a lower-off. Steeper than it looks.

Classic line up the slab following the thin cracks. Clip the bolt after the horizontal break and trend right to the arete. Up the short slab to finish at a lower-off. Take small/medium gear and bolt plates.

Set up an anchor at the base of Theives Wall and abseil down over the huge chockstone to the large ledge below. The route starts at the obvious curving crack at the base of the south facing wall. Climb the handcrack up and through a slight bulge. Traverse left at the roof to a natural belay on med/large cams and either walk off left or continue up Fear Effect (recommended).

Starts 5m left of “Io” on the belay ledge. Up and left to first B.R. then up past another 4 and into corner and gully above. 5 B.R.’s and natural pro.

Thirty first of December (gr 18). Rob Kettels, Aparna Ramesh and Larissa Losch

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/torbay-head-wch-np/

Sit start with right hand sidepull knob thing and left hand shallow crystally pocket. One mover, fun.