Vías en South Coast para grado seleccionado

Up the blunt arete. Super sharp.

Apparently done by Pete Lowe with a rock stack to start (the rock stack has since been cleared away). Can be started by stacking pads to gain the slab. Up the high scoop.

Stand start and up the rising twin aretes. A great feature and a good one for the mountaineers.

Sit start and up with slopey holds.

Stand start where you fancy. Up the slab to the obvious juggy pockets. Fun and a bit high.

Up the rough slab. Bit of exposure.

Nice slab climbing up the obvious water runnel. Sit start on the arete with the low left hand jug. Up trending right-ish avoiding the jugs of 'Rock Lobster' on the left.

Climb the crack without using the hidden flake or face holds for a harder variant.

Stand. Climb the rock column avoiding the boulders on either side.

Various easy lines up the tall faces.

Sit start with obvious low hold and right toe on bulge. Weird

Sit start on the right and traverse left on juggy lip to finish as 'Intersection'.

Stand and up the crack. Toe jams galore.

Sit start with good holds and up to jugs. Stand FA by Jim N

Stand start and up the middle of the face avoiding the obvious ledge on the right.

Sit start perched on the rock on the left. Traverse the seam rightward to topout with the vertical crack. Awesome warm up traverse.

On the South facing wall of the most westerly boulder (along access track to left side of the Family Rock Slabs/ Parables of Light). Obvious corner crack with steep finish.

Sit start. Up the tall, but secure, crack system.

Sit.

Left

Right

Sit start with right hand sidepull and left hand edge and low feet. Up with various friction jugs.

Stand start and up edges trending left on the orange slab

Stand start with the jug, straight up. For extra style use only the big jug to topout directly.

Option to traverse right on good holds.

Sit start with jugs. Avoid rocks underneath. A bit awkward. Top out on the slab

Sit Start up and up on vague right arete

Traverse around the large boulder near the track.

Holy Brail (17)6m– Straight up the rounded corner using the small pockets. 2 BR(need hangers). P. Maher 2013. DBB on the top (Need hangers)

One Small Step For Man (17)9m- Start 5m right of water runnel on small ground level flake. Balancing moves straight up the face using small cripms and orange coloured horizontal breaks. 3 BR(need hangers) and DBB as for DIO. D. Reed Oct 2013

Sweet 16 (20) 10 m. The obvious parallel crack in the bolder on the hill above the shooting range. Hand and foot-jam your way up to the top. Several BD #2.5, 3 and 3.5, or equivalent, required. Those with smaller hands and feet may find this route easier than those with big hand and feet! P. Calais, T. Martins, A. Separovic, C. Delides.

Why ‘Sweet 16’? Because the day before at Peak Head we did what I thought was a 16 or 17 or something and it turned out to be a 21. The easier climb was about 5 m to the left. Before we got to MBH, I told the others that the crack is probably a 16 or 17, but then after grunting and swearing my way up it, admitted it was a bit harder and was given a hard time by the others for misleading them.

Was then found to have been climbed before, with the FA probably being a solo on sight in october 1986 by Pete Lowe

Sit start with undercling flake. Up and left. The low supporting rock is out for feet.

Sit start with undercling flake. Up and right with the flake. The low supporting rock is out for feet.

Sit start. Up the corner.

Sit start on jug. Fun moves up the face.

Sit start and up

Left slab. Highball, but easy.

Fun featured slab.

The right side of the arete that forms the boundary between Amityville Area and Surfs Up Wall. Start from 'ground level' (ie wave washed platform only on very calm days and low tide), else from good ledge about 6m up.

Starts in corner approx.10 right of 'Ivory Tower' on hanging belay. Inferno: Up corner for 6m then around arete to right onto small ledge. Purgatorio: Up second corner for 9m to bigger ledge (belay). Paradiso: Up third steep-ish/ left-leaning corner and out.

Up crack 1m right of Melodrama in three acts, then jam and lay-back the flake line/ shallow corner to the top.

Abseil 10m on main face to a small ledge halfway between 'Fear no Evil' on left and the big gully on the right. From ledge traverse right for 8m then around corner and into gully. Bridge up gully a few meters then out on northern wall. (Note: climb is shown incorrectly on topo in 'South Coast Rock')

Starts at the eastern end of Eclipse Rightside, about 15m or so east of “Wetagain” at the obvious large corner system. Abseil down to the base of the chimney. Climb the thin corner crack on the western side of the chimney until at the chicken head on the arête (about halfway up). Sling this then step out left onto the face and climb the bulging hand crack.

K. Hartley, J. Herlihy, J. Nevin. Jun 2012

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/zig-zag-the-gap-albany/

Jug then straight up.

Left of Unnamed #2

Left of Unnamed #3

This route/crack is 3M to the r of the corner. Crux at the top.

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand on the arete. Tricky move to establish.

The crack on the south facing wall just left of the detached block.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/zig-zag-the-gap-albany/

On the east facing wall in the gully, up from Pinnacle Wall. Step across to the start of the right trending crack/flake line.

R. Master. Jan 2004

Direct start to Latchbone

Stand start with left hand pocket and right hand low flake.

Lost and found 10m (17)- Start in the corner chimney as for YTT then step left onto the face below the large overhanging flake (crux). Swing out then up the left hand side and follow the flake to the top. Fun moves. P. Maher and M. Taylor 05-01-2014.

Yielding to Temptation 10m (17)-The off width crack/ Chimney on the right hand side of the slab. Medium to large cams in the back of the crack for protection. M. Taylor and P. Maher 05-01-2014

Starts 2m right of One Move Away/Blue Tipple. Up easy angled crack, aiming for the wide corner. Bomber butterfly’s and some apprehension will take you to the final wide corner. Offwidth or layback as you see fit and flop onto the ledge. Don’t forget your big green #6 camalot. Great fun. Standard rack plus at least one BIG cam.

Shares anchor/belay with One Move Away / Blue Tipple.

See 'South Coast Rock'

A route with a rich history! First soloed (!) by Scott Camps, then accidentally partly retro-bolted (See also The Runnel of Love)

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/five-new-pitches-at-gibraltar-rock/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-at-peak-head/

• DIAGONAL CRACK (65m, 18) This climbs follows the left-trending diagonal crack from its very beginning at the start of “White Witches on a Cross” to its end, then finishes straight up “Skysurfer”. Mostly good fun, with some slight awkwardness. (i) 25m, 16 Up the ramp/crack to belay on the bolt of “Layers of Grooviness” located 2m above the ramp (fixed hanger). (ii) 40m, 18 Continue up the ramp to its left end (gr.16), #1 Camalot is essential here, then up past 2 bolts of “Skysurfer” to belay on the 3rd bolt you come across. (iii) Scramble for 20m to top and sling rope around boulder for belay. No new bolts were placed. Bring single set of cams up to #4 Camalot. FA: Ross Weiter, Pete Thomas, 18 April 2014.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/the-most-obvious-line-at-west-face-of-peak-head-falls-to-perth-raiders/

Regarded as one of the best crack pitches in WA, good value at the grade.

Pitch 1 (18) 33m: Up short crack to horizontal break. Enter finger crack and enjoy the climb to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 (16) 23m: Up short corner to easy ramp to block and belay on right below the summit dome.

Pitch 3 (15) 40m: Committing slab climbing protected by small wires up to summit

Between Baylec Direct and Albatross, there is a chimney area with two ugly looking corner cracks. Climb the right crack up to some nice jams, and continue to where it gets narrow and crosses left to first belay anchors of Baylec Direct. Gobbles up medium cams.

From 2RBB on left edge of ledge, abseil slightly rightwards, heading into the obvious wide crack.

(1) 33m 18: Climb crack up to the left leading bongo flake. Straight up face from here past a FH to ledge and 2RBB.

(2) 27m 15: Head left up slabs as for Long Time Coming.

Pitch 1 (16) 30m: Up the crack to awkward ramp, over bulge to belay in groove.

Pitch 2 (15) 40m: Up groove into crack on right whaere flared chimney begins. Belay on bushy ledge

Pitch 3 (17) 40m: Head straight up wall climbing thin cracks. At ledge, step right to avoid blank groove. Clip bolt and continue up rounded holds and back left into groove to good cams. Continue to climb and exit left to long runout to tree belay.

Stand start matched on lowest part of the undercling. Up the juggy flake and topout.

Offwidth

Needs a big cam for the belay down low. Up to the jug, delicately left to the flake then up. Bolts and gear to DBB.

Nice sustained gingerbread. I mean fingercrack. Better than it looks! Further right is a cool wall with some potential.

Crack and face climbing. Gear and a couple of bolts. Take hangers.