Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Dom 11.º Jun 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
7b Duro | ★★ Defloratsia L1 | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Well apparently the tradition here is to first do the route and then collectively pretend its a 7b - sure, happy to oblige It could have been 7b, maybe when Khan Asparuh founded Bulgaria, but ok, I'm sure I have logged 7bs in the other extreme - lets restore the balance in the universe #karma.
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Dom 11.º Jun 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ O! Maria | 30m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice long and varied. Different styles and pleasant climbing! Good warmup in the cave!
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Jue 8.º Jun 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata dupka Right side | |||||||
7a+ | Boryana — 2 intentos | 7 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Loose rock
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6b+ Duro | On the Road Again | 8 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Easier for tall people.
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6b | ★ Shtuka | 8 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not bad.
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6b/b+ Fácil | Rak | 7 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Don't fall before the 5th bolt.
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Mar 30.º Mayo 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
7b | ★★ No Connection | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Cool line. A few reachy moves make it at least a grade harder for shorties.
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Mar 30.º Mayo 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Nepobedim | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Nepobedim | 28m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Another phenomenal line in the cave.
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Sáb 27.º Mayo 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Aleko | |||||||
7a |
Bay Ganyo
— 2 intentos
1
7a
33m
2
7a
22m
| 55m, 11 | Medio | ||||
Loose rock.
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Sáb 27.º Mayo 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Spartak | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Nai-krasivata zhena v grada | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
So good. Great one.
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Sáb 27.º Mayo 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
6c+ Fácil | ★★★ De da znam | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice route with a funky crux. Some loose rock in the first half.
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7b+ | ★★★ Sever — 2 intentos | 29m, 14 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Amazing route in an amazing sector.
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Lun 22.º Mayo 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Parva nagrada — 3 intentos | 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Cool route. Crimpy.
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Mar 16.º Mayo 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Zabat | |||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★★ Nichia zemya | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Really nice route.
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6b+ Fácil | ★★★ Edna otdelna realnost | 95m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Very nice route. Recommended.
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6a+ | ★★ Jetro | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice one. Deserves more traffic.
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Dom 14.º Mayo 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata Vrattsá | |||||||
7- | ★★ Somnambul variant | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice moves. Old-school bolting.
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Lun 8.º Mayo 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 2 | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | Staranie i vaztorg — 2 intentos | 9 | Medio | ||||
Run-out slab.
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Mié 26.º Abr 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata Vrattsá | |||||||
6+ ~6b | ★★ Dyulfera | 30m, 11 | ★ Buena | ||||
Run-out
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7 ~6b+ | ★★★ Obarnatiyat triagalnik | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
I loved this one. Very cool moves.
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Mié 26.º Abr 2023 - Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero | |||||||
Malyovitsa Severoiztochna stena | |||||||
6c+/7a ~7a | ★ Skalolazka | 200m | ★ Buena | ||||
You'd better love run-outs.
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Dom 23.º Abr 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
6a | ★★ Eko pateka - con Bianca Sbiera | 9m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Colorful route 👌
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Sáb 15.º Abr 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Reality Bites — 2 intentos | 22m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
One of the good routes in the crag
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Mar 11.º Abr 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Kemera | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Via diagonalis | 120m, 9 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Pretty cool
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Dom 9.º Abr 2023 - Smolyan | |||||||
Turluka Zapad | |||||||
7a Fácil | ★ Samotniyat chovek | 25m | Medio | ||||
Nice and easy first half followed by pumpy, endurance climb on choss. Needs cleaning.
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7b+/c Duro | ★★ Sakantiya — 2 intentos | 33m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quite technical and balancy route. Strats with a chossy overhanging part followed by a delicate face climb and then a finger crack that progressively grows to an off-width and even a chimney at the very top. Bring 3-4 60 cm. runners for the first bolts. Bolting is suboptimal. 7b+/c
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7b | ★★ Top rope or die — 2 intentos | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
It's a technical, tricky and very-hard-to-grade one. It's all about beta ... as always. Bring a few 60 cm. runners and consider skipping the last bolt bellow the roof. Bolting sucks. Don't use the arête unless you wanna kill your belayer, it's too loose.
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Lun 3.º Abr 2023 - Smolyan | |||||||
Sredok | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Oscar Wild | 60m, 5 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Such a good route.
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Sáb 1.º Abr 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Lower Right | |||||||
6b | Metalwings | Basura | |||||
Choss.
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6b ~6b+ | ★ I butilka rom | 18m, 9 | Basura | ||||
Crap.
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Sáb 1.º Abr 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
7c | ★★ Fukushima — 2 intentos | 9 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Pretty cool one ... but also a skin-eater. Easier for tall dudes.
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Lun 27.º Mar 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata Vrattsá | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Otsastvieto na geroya
1
6a+
35m
2
5c+
30m
| 65m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Very nice one
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Lun 27.º Mar 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 2 | |||||||
6c+/7a ~7a | ★★★ Sryazanoto vazhe | 11 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super fun route
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Sáb 25.º Mar 2023 - Musala | |||||||
Trionite | |||||||
M2 | ★★ Travers Trionite - con Andrei Badea, Radu Hera | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Lovely traverse, done on descent from Musala after climbing the ridge from Yastrebets (mostly a walkup, with 1 short M1 section). Regular belay on the chimney, simul otherwise. We avoided the first rock tower after Musala not knowing how the descent looked like, otherwise we mostly kept to the ridge. Descent on the nw ridge of Irechek, which we abandoned maybe 2/3 in when we saw a good glissade line. Lovely day out, out before dawn, sunrise on Aleko, good snow and warm rock. I missed granite.
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Vie 3.º Mar 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Zvyara beybi | 20m, 7 | |||||
Very nice one
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Vie 3.º Mar 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Lower Right | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brick in the Wall | 23m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A good one.
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6c+ ~6c | ★★ Pinokio | 23m, 10 | Medio | ||||
The first part sucks (too chossy) but the second one is worth climbing. It would've been nice if the bolts had followed the logical line.
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Mié 1.º Mar 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Lower Right | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Rolling Stones | 19m, 9 | Basura | ||||
Choss.
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6b | ★ Yo-ho-ho | 16m, 10 | Basura | ||||
Overbolted.
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Dom 8.º En 2023 - Shirokovo | |||||||
Sector 2 | |||||||
7a | The Secret | ||||||
2nd Go
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7a | The Secret | ||||||
2nd Go
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Dom 8.º En 2023 - Shirokovo | |||||||
Sector 1 | |||||||
6c | Smear Campaign | 25m | |||||
2nd Go
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Dom 8.º En 2023 - Shirokovo | |||||||
Sector 3 | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Batman | 25m | |||||
Tricky moves before the top
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Dom 8.º En 2023 - Shirokovo | |||||||
Sector 2 | |||||||
6a | Shadow hunting | ||||||
Nice
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Mar 3.º En 2023 - Lakatnik | |||||||
Vodenitsata Vodenitsata | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★★ Kade sgreshihme | 28m, 15 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Awesome route.
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Dom 9.º Oct 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Lower Right | |||||||
6b+ Fácil | ★★★ Fantastichna svetlina | 23m, 10 | |||||
Beautiful climbing. This line is the proper one to acclimatize to the rock on this crag.
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Sáb 1.º Oct 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
7b | ★★ Death Metal | 5 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Hard! Mega short route if we dont count the first 6 7 meters where bolt 1 is
Took me too many tires... lets blame conditions this time?? Why not.
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Dom 25.º Sep 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
9- 7b+ | ★★★ Sever | 29m, 14 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
wow what a cool line! The entire sector is just fantastic!
This one was very hard for me, total anti style.... you really have to be fresh for the crux at the top and i fell in the last moves like 5(!) times.... In total i have it 9 tries over 3 sessions and sent it desperately on the 4th try of the last one.... loved every try though, such a pleasure!
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Lun 19.º Sep 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
8+ 7b | ★★ No Connection (No Connection - dolna chast) | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Idk why but that route was hard for me. I gave it too many tires last year - maybe 5 and i just couldn't get it done. 2nd try this year but again - not without some little drama here and there. Glad its done
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Dom 18.º Sep 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
8+ 7b | ★★★ Triagalnikat | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
What a great line! Crimps, jugs, blobs, cool sequences! Loved it. Did it 1st try with placing draws after 3 tries 1 year ago. Indeed not more than 7b if ure a bit taller which helps in the triangle
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Dom 18.º Sep 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Nepobedim | |||||||
8 7a+ | ★★★ Nepobedim (Nepobedim - dolna chast) | 28m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Super nice line! Had a huuuge fight at the end and had to give 100% to not miss the OS, which is such an awesome feeling in climbing!! Good rests with very interesting sequences and some endurance at the end. Re the grade - last year i did an os of one hot minute and i found it much easier. Im sure i didnt climb it super efficiently but it felt hard, varied, pumpy and so i agree with 7a+
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Sáb 17.º Sep 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Tangra L1 (Tangra 1-va chast) | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Nice route! 3rd go. Somehow the bottom half felt harder than the upper. 2 good rests but still pumpy.
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7 6b+ | ★★ Zvyara beybi | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Hard crux!
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Lun 12.º Sep 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
6c Duro | Rocks | Basura | |||||
Lots of loose rock and it's not worth it. Consider helmets.
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Mar 23.º Ag 2022 - Varna | |||||||
Kamen bryag Tyulenovo Funky jump | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Funky Jump - Direct | 6m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Also pretty cool
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6c+ | ★★★ Funky Jump | 7m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Such a cool route.
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5c+ 5c | ★★★ Kolizeum | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Nice one.
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Mar 23.º Ag 2022 - Varna | |||||||
Kamen bryag Tyulenovo Rezervata na talasamite | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Reality | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Great route, terrible approach.
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Mié 17.º Ag 2022 - Bansko | |||||||
Peshterite | |||||||
4b+ | ★ Po-trudno - con Marcela | 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
2nd go
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6a | ★★ Vinkela - con Marcela | 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
I tried again on top rope but ran out of steam to make the crux clean.
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Dom 14.º Ag 2022 - Sofia | |||||||
Vitosha Kominite Dolen komin Yuzhno krilo | |||||||
5b | ★★ Malkiat vinkel - con Marcela | 80m | ★ Buena | ||||
First pitch
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5a | ★ Kombiniraniat - con Marcela | 60m | ★ Buena | ||||
First pitch
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Jue 11.º Ag 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Left | |||||||
5+ 5b | ★ Azimut 1 - con marcela | 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
I need to work on my mantel technique since I needed to practice before the send.
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6- 5c | ★ Azimut 2 - con marcela | 4 | |||||
Again, I was scared of committing to the mantel move. Just needed to practice before the send
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Mié 10.º Ag 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
6- 6a+ | ★★ Sivite plochi - con Marcela | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Quite hard for the grade. I still could not get it clean on top rope.
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5+ 5b | ★ Pop folk L1 (Pop folk - dolna chast) - con Marcela | Medio | |||||
Bailed from the clip before the run out mantel move.
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Mar 9.º Ag 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata Vrattsá | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Tsepkata ( The Crack) - con Marcela | 25m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Top rope after dogging up on first attempt.
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Sáb 23.º Jul 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Left | |||||||
7 6b | ★ Ombre - con Tom | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Nice roof with stalactites to reach the top
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Sáb 23.º Jul 2022 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
8- 6c+ | ★★★ Sianie v mraka | 21m, 8 | |||||
On my 1st attempt I reached the top but fell off before clipping
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Jue 21.º Jul 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata dupka Right side | |||||||
6c | ★★ Hakalberi Fin - con Tom | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
The boulder problem right at the start could be hard without a good sequence but there's a very good hold for left hand that unlocks the problem.
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Interesante - con Tom | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Hard start, hard end
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Jue 30.º Jun 2022 - Varna | |||||||
Kamen bryag Yaylata Plazha | |||||||
6a | Merak | ||||||
DWS. Really sharp rock. Did it bear foot but some shoes would be nice
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Mié 29.º Jun 2022 - Varna | |||||||
Kamen bryag Tyulenovo Rezervata na talasamite | |||||||
6a+ | Eskimo | ||||||
DWS. Right most route, use a right oblique edge for the crux moves
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Lun 20.º Jun 2022 - Sofia | |||||||
Vitosha Kominite Divite skali | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Golemia vinkel | 55m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Uff! Amazing climb just not brave enough to do it on lead. Definitely with more trad experience the experience is wonderful.
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Mar 12.º Abr 2022 - Tabachka | |||||||
Predi seloto sreshtu mosta | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Dupkata na gushtera | 24m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Holds easily broken due to the nature of the rock. Great route otherwise!
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Lun 11.º Abr 2022 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata dupka Right side | |||||||
6c | ★★ Hakalberi Fin | Ni te molestes | |||||
chossy and very bad for warmup. Cool moves in the middle and knees at the top. Harder than 6b+!
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Lun 13.º Sep 2021 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata dupka Right side | |||||||
7b Duro | ★★ Arm the Homeless | ★ Buena | |||||
Polished. 7b/+
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Sáb 31.º Jul 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
★★★ Na drugia bryag (On the other side) | |||||||
Amazingly fun tufa on the top. Should have led it
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Sáb 31.º Jul 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Nepobedim | |||||||
★★★ Nepobedim - dolna chast | 28m | ||||||
A small cheat of the onsight in the upperpart
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Lun 19.º Jul 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
8+ 7a+ | ★★★ Opera Verticale | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Another star line in Sever! 2nd go for the day but i tried it (and failed) a few years back so maybe ~4 tires I didnt remember anything though... probably on the softer side of the grade but since endurance inst my thing it didn't feel like a warmup at all
2nd Go |
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Lun 12.º Jul 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
8+ 7a+ | ★★★ Severozapad | 32m, 13 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
High quality route! Amazing journey. Very recommended:) Finally im happy with my flow on a route. Almost no hesitation 2nd go.
2nd Go |
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8 7a | ★★★ O! Wow | 29m, 12 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super super nice line! Great climbing from start to finish. Not ashamed to say i disagree with how amazingly soft it is. It didn't feel soft to me at all. I underestimated it quite a bit 2 times before sending today with qds.
Endurance |
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Dom 11.º Jul 2021 - Teteven | |||||||
Sinyoto kolelo | |||||||
7a | ★ Medenka lyubimka (Medenka Liubimka L1) | 28m, 14 | Medio | ||||
A good intro to the sector 5b to a 6A+/6B boulder. Kneebar clip at the top. If Putsai Kume is a 7a+ then this is softer BUT i dont think kume is a 7a+
2nd Go |
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Jue 24.º Jun 2021 - Smolyan | |||||||
Sokolov Kamak | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Needle In A Haystack | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
A damn good one.
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Vie 18.º Jun 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Podarak | |||||||
6b | ★ Blokada | 20m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Meh nice moves before the upper half. Then bring your gardening tools
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Vie 18.º Jun 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Nepobedim | |||||||
8 7a | ★★★ One hot minute (One hot minute - dolna chast) | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
With draws. Felt soft all the way to the overhang so i expected some boulder and was very nervous but instead i found like 3 4 knees with almost no hand rest and was quite ok. No crux really.
Soft |
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Mié 16.º Jun 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
7+ 6b+ | ★★★ Dvoyka Bate | 25m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Nice route. Some pigeon scared the crap out of me at the chains I hated my own flow on the route however
Technical |
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Dom 13.º Jun 2021 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
8+ 7a+ | ★★ Kromanyonetsat | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
3rd go. Should have been 2nd... close on the flash too!
Crimpy |
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Jue 10.º Jun 2021 - Smolyan | |||||||
Turluka Turluka | |||||||
7a+ | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Pillar of Madness | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
FFA.
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7a | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Plochata | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
FFA.
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7a | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Ya Kaminata, Ya Kamilarya | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
FFA.
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6a+ | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Novo 20 | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
FFA.
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7a | Pr.Asc. ★★★ DNK | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
FFA.
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Dom 16.º Mayo 2021 - Bryanovshtitsa | |||||||
Tsepkite | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Tra-la-la | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Trad
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6a 6a/a+ | ★★★ Petmez | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Trad
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Mar 11.º Mayo 2021 - Bryanovshtitsa | |||||||
lyavo | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Bashtina grizha (Mekata kamila) | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Trad
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Lun 10.º Mayo 2021 - Vratsa | |||||||
Tsentralna stena Hergiani | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Sero Tore (Cerro Torre) | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Trad Demanding route. Long pitches with few rests. Bring at least 13 cams up to #4 (grey). 3rd pitch is on quite loose rock. The last two belay stances aren't bolted, the others are but the bolts were placed in 2003 and (I believe) are not stainless steel so their condition is unknown. Grades: 6b, 6b, 6b (feels like 6c+), 6b (feels like 6c), 6a+, 5b. Rappels: after the last pitch you need to downclimb 10-15 m. a chossy but easy couloir (right) to get to a bolt with a quick link.
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Lun 10.º Mayo 2021 - Vratsa | |||||||
Tsentralna stena Zapadna chast | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Skalni risunki | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Trad
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Lun 3.º Mayo 2021 - Vratsa | |||||||
Tsentralna stena Hergiani | |||||||
7a | Terminator | Ni te molestes | |||||
Trad Not Recommended. Dangerous, chossy, poorly bolted and run-out. Unless you like free soloing on choss, use a clipstick for the 1st bolt. P2 is total choss!!! Follow the corner for 5m, then a bit to the right and back to the corner. DON'T go left as the guidebook suggests!
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Lun 26.º Abr 2021 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Kamata | 8 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Interesting.
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