Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Dom 12.º Mayo 2024 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
7b+ | ★ Carma Coma — 2 intentos | 15m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not that bad actually.
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Lun 29.º Abr 2024 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
7c ~7b+ | ★★★ Darzost i krasota — 2 intentos | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
One of the best routes in the crag. Cool longish moves up there. Hard 7b+ for dudes but definitely harder for ladies and shorties.
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Jue 25.º Abr 2024 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
7c ~7c+ | ★ Cherveniat ploshtad — 3 intentos | ★ Buena | |||||
Interesting route. Unfortunately the crux-hold has lost a lot of texture and friction because of chalk buildup (due to not brushing!).
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Mar 23.º Abr 2024 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata dupka Upper Right | |||||||
7c Duro | ★★ Mokri sanishta | 19m, 7 | Medio | ||||
Tricky problem
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Sáb 20.º Abr 2024 - Vratsa | |||||||
Ivan Vazov | |||||||
7b | ★★ Pleven — 2 intentos | 100m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Climbing-wise, one of the best routes around. Bolting-wise, one of the worst.
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Jue 11.º Abr 2024 - Vratsa | |||||||
Meduza | |||||||
7b+ |
★★ MDMA
— 2 intentos
1
7a
2
7b+
3
7b
| 100m, 16 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
100 meters of run-out slab climbing, how cool is that . 2nd go while hanging the draws. 7a, 7b+, 7b
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Mié 3.º Abr 2024 - Smolyan | |||||||
Kechi Kaya Gabite | |||||||
4b ~4b | Ursus arctos | 60m | Medio | ||||
Not exactly a beginner route due to serious run-outs.
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6c Duro | ★★ Dirty old town | 50m, 17 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice one. Long and sustained 1st pitch followed by short and powerful 2nd pitch.
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Sáb 28.º Oct 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
5c Fácil | ★★★ Dolnata zemya | 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Surprisingly good route.
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7a+ ~7a+ | I T — 2 intentos | 8 | Medio | ||||
Too short. The anchor should've been higher. Way harder for shorties.
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7b Duro | ★★★ Fahrenheit 9/11 — 3 intentos | 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice route. It's a shame it gets overlooked so often. 7b/+
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Mar 24.º Oct 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Dzhunglata | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Minete ottuk | 25m, 10 | ★ Buena | ||||
Apart from being super dusty and the large amount of loose rock, climbing's fun. Having carabiners at the anchor is nice but having an anchor that doesn't twist your rope is 10 times nicer.
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Mar 24.º Oct 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Nad chuchurite | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Danke prebitte — 2 intentos | 27m, 15 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super cool and technical route.
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6b+ Duro | ★ Ne mi prechi | 19m, 11 | ★ Buena | ||||
Damn chossy start. Then it gets better.
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Mar 17.º Oct 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
7a+ Duro | ★★ Kromanyonetsat | ★ Buena | |||||
You need good core, very strong fingers, and high friction for this one. The feet are polished and bad almost the entire route. A consistent V5 boulder problem from bottom to top. 3rd clip felt impossible to get without burning too much energy. Straight up brutal power endurance.
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Mar 17.º Oct 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Podarak | |||||||
6b | ★ Blokada | 20m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice little warmup with awesome slab moves on good edges! The topout reminded me of Reimer’s. I think I found my new favorite warmup
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Mar 17.º Oct 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
6c+ ~6c | ★★★ De da znam | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Had to hang at the crux to find the sequence. Not what I thought it was going to be! I think I made up my own tall-person beta 😂. That being said I can’t really justify 11c for this…11b at most since the entire grade is in that sequence. Sick route that deserves more attention.
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Lun 16.º Oct 2023 - Teteven | |||||||
Sinyoto kolelo | |||||||
7a Fácil | ★ Medenka lyubimka | 28m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Fun 6a climbing to a four move V4 boulder problem with optional kneebars after every hard move. Really difficult to read, which is maybe why it gets 7a instead of 6c+…got pretty lucky choosing the correct beta. Strongly reminiscent of the Obed…
got a little homesick to be honest. Left kneepad useful, right is optional.
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7b Fácil | ★★★ Nema Power - dolna chast | 30m, 15 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
A 2nd go wonder. Once you find your beta for the top it feels significantly easier. 1st try hanging draws a few days ago I fell just before the final moves, using bad beta pulling into the RH undercling off the double kneebar. Absolutely smashed it today first go. Double kneepads very helpful. Classic V3 tufa boulder! Felt 7a+ with beta, but the onsight go was definitely 7b.
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6b Fácil | ★★★ Naturalno izvisen L0 | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
This was probably the most fun I’ve had on a warmup in Bulgaria. Stellar line on drastically better rock than the line to the left. Pretty committing near the top, with some spicy runout but good holds. Epic finish! Felt pretty soft, maybe 5.10a/b at most.
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Lun 16.º Oct 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Plochata | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Krachmata ni zove (The Pub is Calling Us) | 30m, 16 | ★ Buena | ||||
Dusty.
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Lun 16.º Oct 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Nad chuchurite | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Dzhagara dzhugara — 2 intentos | 23m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Cool moves
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6c+ Fácil | ★★★ Brodyagi — 2 intentos | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice one.
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7b+ Duro | ★★★ Hari Belafonte — 2 intentos | 26m, 14 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Great route! One of the best in the crag.
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Lun 16.º Oct 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
7c | ★ Plus 1 — 3 intentos | 34m, 16 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not a bad climb but some loose rock needs to be cleaned. I broke 3 footholds and 2 handholds. Harder for shorties. Chipped.
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Sáb 14.º Oct 2023 - Teteven | |||||||
Sinyoto kolelo | |||||||
7a ~6c+ | ★ Sinyoto kolelo - dolna chast | 25m, 11 | ★ Buena | ||||
Really nice quality moves on consistently poor, chossy rock. An interesting mix. The final moves are the only pumpy bit, and it really isn’t that bad if you read the sequence well and nab the pocket. Hanging anchors from underneath isn’t really an option, you have to go up and left to the final edge. Soft.
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Chetprom - dolna chast | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Crap start leads to some of the most fun climbing ever. Honestly the first 3 bolts were the hardest for me trying to read the choss. The tufa is all jugs and good right kneebars which you don’t even need.
Feels only about 6b+/c unless you do the final move to the black tufa above the anchors to clip the higher one…which felt 6c+ on the onsight. |
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6b | ★★ Ludo Mlado - dolna chast | 25m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Jug edges all the way until the final few bolts where it changes to sick tufa-pulling. Amazing finish moves.
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Jue 12.º Oct 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
7a | ★★ Kamerton | 26m | ★ Buena | ||||
Did not really enjoy it at all. Stupid crux on polished nothing holds and bad feet, to a massive rest on a hollow flake full of bats. Last move is really hard just like 2 routes to the left, and the anchor clip is a major pain in the ass. Not consistent at all grade-wise. No interest in losing any more skin on this one.
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7b+ Fácil | ★★★ Varna | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Soooo psyched! Thanks to the two lady-crushers from Sofia who gave me a crucial sequence change at the crux. This sure as hell felt 7b+ and it was significantly harder than Triagalnikat for me which I did on my 2nd try. Everyone on 8a.nu gives this 7b which hurts my feelings
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Jue 12.º Oct 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Dvoyka Bate | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
If I bolted this route I would’ve named it Morning Sex because it’s THAT good…
On the easier side of 5.11a if you have good technique. |
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Mar 10.º Oct 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
7b+ Fácil | ★★★ Varna | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Hung draws and gave one burn after, high point was falling on the last RH pinch at the crux, when moving right foot high. Unlocked crucial beta for the 1st half to reduce pump
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Vie 29.º Sep 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Stegite Stegite 1 | |||||||
7c | ★★ Sir Elton John — 2 intentos | 18m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice climb. Bolting is suboptimal. Maybe a hold broke but now clipping the anchor feels like a crux of its own.
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Lun 25.º Sep 2023 - Lakatnik | |||||||
Yavorets Golemiyat tavan | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Buda harka | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Loose rock at the start but then it gets better.
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Lun 25.º Sep 2023 - Lakatnik | |||||||
Yavorets Fosili | |||||||
5c ~5c+ | Pepel | 20m, 10 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Choss
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6b+ Fácil | ★★ Samo za alpinisti | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice one but needs cleaning.
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6b+ | Trilobite | 19m, 7 | Medio | ||||
Very nice moves but ... suboptimal bolting + chossy sections.
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7b Fácil | ★★ Zagryavka za shampioni | 23m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
You gotta love slopers Started right below the 1st bolt (center), seemed logical and felt OK. Starting right of the bolts looks more logical and easier but it's a bit far from the 1st bolt. Starting left of the bolts is definitely possible but super illogical to me. The route is easier for tall fellas.
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7b+ | ★★★ Na sever ot Grinioich — 2 intentos | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super good route.
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Lun 18.º Sep 2023 - Slaveevi skali | |||||||
6b+ | Tlasti teleta | 51m, 13 | Medio | ||||
Loose rock.
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7a+ | ★ Krutsio | 20m, 8 | ★ Buena | ||||
Not easy to clip the anchor. Harder for shorties.
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Vie 15.º Sep 2023 - Veliko Tarnovo | |||||||
Dryanovski manastir Stalbata | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Be Water | 25m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Love and Thunder baby! Waited out a massive lightning storm for 2 hours underneath the route in hopes for a safe 20-minute sending window. Manky as hell from the rain AND it was getting dark, but somehow managed to pull the send out of my ass. 1st try after hanging draws yesterday.
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6b ~6c | ★★ Ita | 30m, 14 | |||||
Had to hang at the crux to figure it out. I can’t tell if the giant flake ripped off before, or after it was FA’d. If it broke after then it makes sense why the crux is harder than 6b.
Once my partner and I both pulled the moves we agreed the crux felt 6c+ but the rest of the climb was quite a bit easier, apart from the final move that demands some power and commitment. 6c/+ but kind of short-lived difficulty compared to the left route. |
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6c/c+ ~6c+ | ★★ Bacho Kiro | 30m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
This thing looks like ass so I TR’d for a secondary warmup but man what a cool line. There’s no move on it as hard as Ita’s crux imho but it’s way more consistently on you with multiple cruxes and reachy sections. Don’t pass on this one! Very well-bolted.
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Jue 14.º Sep 2023 - Veliko Tarnovo | |||||||
Dryanovski manastir Stalbata | |||||||
5a ~5a+ | ★ Sanovidenie | 15m, 8 | ★ Buena | ||||
Felt about 5.8. Cruisey technical warmup that makes you use your feet. Not bad at all!
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6b | ★★★ Andaman | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing and really fun climbing with great holds the entire way. At the start use a cheater stack to get the first hold in the crack. Otherwise it’s quite a bit harder.
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6c ~6c+ | ★ Aman zaman | 28m, 11 | ★ Buena | ||||
Very hard compared to the left variation. The crux where the route splits feels more 7a. Then another pumpy bit up higher. TR’d this as a secondary warmup. Glad I didn’t lead it, the runout after the main crux is a little ridiculous.
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Mar 12.º Sep 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
7b+ Fácil | ★★★ Varna | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
If this route were any sicker you’d need to call an ambulance. Holy tits what a cool line. Relentlessly pumpy, core-intensive moves and no true rest besides a few shit kneebars if you’re lucky. Stoked to come back for this one and lose some more skin. Consistently more difficult moves than Triagalnikat and without any of the good rests
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Mar 12.º Sep 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
6c+ ~6c+ | ★★ Nezheneni s detsa | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Yeesh, what a humility sandwich. Definitely felt 7a last session and also today until I found my VERY specific beta that I kept forgetting, especially the feet. Hard and polished. Maybe used to be 6c before it got ran through so many times but this is solid 6c+ now. It’s over quick but it ain’t over till it’s over.
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Dom 10.º Sep 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata Vrattsá | |||||||
7a+ |
★★ Vazhe nazaem
— 2 intentos
1
6c
28
2
7a+
35
| 63m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice one. Pretty cool boulder on the 2nd pitch. L2 is at least 2 grades harder for shorties. I used only small cams up to #0.75 green.
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Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Plochata | |||||||
6b+ Duro | ★★ Krachmata ni zove (The Pub is Calling Us) | 30m, 16 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A little bit of choss down low but pretty solid climbing after the first bolt
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Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Lakatnik | |||||||
Vrazhite dupki Veseliat gringo | |||||||
7a ~7b+ | ★★★ Tantsat na prilepa | 20m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really psyched on this route until I got to the upper crux moves and it’s so fucking hard and stupid. Like 4-star climbing turns into 1-star climbing. Best beta I found was 12c, followed by a massive runout that felt a bit unnecessary since there’s a ton of good rock for an extra bolt. Lost all my psych since it’s probably a dangerous close-to-ground fall if you happen to slip or lose balance on the ledge going to the next bolt.
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6a+ ~6b+ | ★★★ Dzhek | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
What an amazing route. Crux felt 11a to me, and I’m pretty tall. Pumpy! Bring a few long draws for the cave and the last bolt.
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Mié 6.º Sep 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Plochata | |||||||
6c+ ~7a | ★★★ Cranberries | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Technical beef. Super glad I got this 2nd try. Bring your finger crack skills and slab-ready footwork
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Mié 6.º Sep 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Breze Nad chuchurite | |||||||
7a+ Duro | Golemiat | 23m, 13 | ★ Buena | ||||
Spicy V4 compression boulder. Took me a second to figure out the and and foot sequence. Biceps!!!
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6a Duro | ★★★ Malkiat | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Hard technical start to a beautiful rest of the climb on perfect edges and fun stemming.
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Mar 5.º Sep 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Na drugia bryag | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Super-easy face climbing, maybe 6a until you get to the underclings and tufa. The hardest moves are right away getting established with bad feet then you cruise on jugs to the top! Amazing finish with a little runout for added spice.
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Dom 3.º Sep 2023 - Smolyan | |||||||
Kechi Kaya Bratyata | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Rudimenta — 4 intentos | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Cool moves on a pretty cool wall
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Jue 31.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
7b Duro | ★★★ Triagalnikat | 25m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Got my ass kicked first try. Sent clean second go but did a TR because I thought I would be too tired. Oh well, pretty happy with it. 5.12b/c
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Mié 30.º Ag 2023 - Teteven | |||||||
Sinyoto kolelo | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★ Byal kotarak - dolna chast | 26m, 12 | ★ Buena | ||||
Really chill entry section followed by a balls-hard final crux move on thin and greasy slopers and weird edges. Once I found the foot beta it went and it was over but man that was quite a puzzle. Not worth doing again since the entire grade is just that one move.
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7a+ Duro | ★★ K-to do R-to do I-to do S-to | 45m, 22 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Had to bail before the final section; ran out of light. Really epic climbing. Undercling blobs to techy vertical section with a few sparse and hard to read moves.
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5c | ★★★ Lunen pateshestvenik - dolna chast | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing, flowy warmup on some of the coolest limestone holds I’ve ever touched. Probably my favorite 5.9 I’ve climbed in Europe thus far. From the midpoint to the top anchor is the same grade, but a little more runout with smaller holds. Still worth doing especially since you can set draws on the left one on the way down.
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5c+ | ★★ Marsianski hroniki | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9+. Less-classic than the one to the right but still worth doing, albeit a lot dirtier. If this route gets a good cleaning with a blower and ivy-pulling it would be really awesome. I did what I could wit bc the time I had.
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Mié 30.º Ag 2023 - Smolyan | |||||||
Kechi Kaya Bratyata | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Shtastliv geroi | 40m, 14 | ★ Buena | ||||
A lot of rope-drag.
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Dom 27.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Sianie v mraka | 21m, 8 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Awesome varied climbing requiring a balance of technique and endurance. Felt on-par for grade with Buona Serra. Easier moves than Nezheneni but just as pumpy. Definitely a tad easier than the route to the left. The difficulty here is spread throughout the climb while the route to the left builds with a final crux harder than any individual move on this route.
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Dom 27.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
5b ~5b | ★★ Nachinaesht | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Really pleasant warmup. 5.7 jugs on the low angle to a 5.8 juggy overhang tufa finish. Bring more draws than you think you need
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Dom 27.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
6c+ Duro | ★★ Svetlina v Tunela — 2 intentos | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Last draw to the anchors is easily 7a/7a+ with how many holds have broken. Significantly more difficult crux than Buona Serra but overall less pumpy. I could not find a 6c+ beta. The rest of the climb is incredibly enjoyable, maybe 6a to the big flake then 6c to the last draw, 7a/7a+ finishing moves. 2nd try.
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Mié 23.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
7a | ★★★ O! Wow | 29m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Incredible. I think people consider this soft because of how many good holds there are, but with 2 definitely hard sections (and not easy to onsight) I feel that 7a is appropriate. The pump is real on this one. I was yoked by the time I got to the chains.
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6c+ ~6c | ★★ Pchelichkata Maya | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Amazing climbing. Juggy first half with a great couple of tests, then it turns on for the 2nd half with bomber edged and a few sequencey moves that build towards the top. Easier than O Maria in my opinion. There were only a few bees today and they were very docile. Benchmark 5.11a.
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Mié 23.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Kak shte gi stignem | |||||||
5a ~5a+ | ★ Payatsi | ★ Buena | |||||
Some of the most retarded bolting I’ve ever seen. Dangerously runout in the hardest section then you have 3 bolts less than a foot from each other right below the chains. Wtf? Around 5.8
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Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ O! Maria | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Bottom crux right off the deck and into the small cave is no joke. It’s so polished it feels a grade harder. Once you’re past this it eases up significantly but stays engaging with a bomber finish on technical flakes. Reminiscent of Tieranny wall at the Obed.
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Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
6a+ ~6a+ | ★★ Sivite plochi | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Hard. Lower moves feel a little dirty. Committing dead points on slab. Upper runout on last technical section is puckering with the big move but feels great if you stick it. The finish is badass on perfectly-textured tufas.
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6a ~6a | ★ Baraban | 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Polished and a bit runout. Decent moves but didn’t feel like a good warmup. Some of the holds are hard to find immediately. Felt about 10a/b.
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Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Veliko Tarnovo | |||||||
Dryanovski manastir Nishata | |||||||
6b+/c ~6b | Promises | 11m, 4 | |||||
Only one bolt at the anchor. Nice moves but very short.
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6c ~6c | ★★★ Vertikalna klasika | 21m, 8 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice one. A grade harder for shorties.
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Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Veliko Tarnovo | |||||||
Dryanovski manastir Nad vira | |||||||
6c | Krachunka | 25m, 14 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Choss.
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Mar 22.º Ag 2023 - Veliko Tarnovo | |||||||
Dryanovski manastir Stalbata | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Kolyo Ficheto — 2 intentos | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super good route.
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7a+ Duro | ★★ Be Water — 2 intentos | 25m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
That was fun
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Lun 21.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Kak shte gi stignem | |||||||
6a | ★ Obich za dvama | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Start is hard going to a very polished crimp. Past this it’s way more chill but you have to stay left on the flake and clip way to the right. The feet get tricky but the hands are great. Doing the direct beta is maybe 7b. Bolting is safe but a bit spacey, I wouldn’t want to fall on this route on a few sections.
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Lun 21.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
6a+ ~6a+ | ★ Team Building | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
This route is definitely harder, and way more polished than Eko Pateka. There are several cool mantle moves requiring good footwork and balance.
The direct finish to the top is significantly harder now with how polished the feet are. I was a little more gripped than I would’ve liked to be for a cool-down. |
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6a Duro | ★★ Eko pateka | 9m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
The crux feels a little spicy until you find the correct feet. Really chill after that. Fun route! The top gets sun in the morning. Upgraded a little from polish.
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Lun 21.º Ag 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Black Metal | |||||||
6c | ★★ Dama pika - Buona Serra | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
This route’s grade is all in the crux move. The tufa section below the crux is maybe 6a+ at the most. The crux itself is quite reachy at at 193cm I didn’t have a problem with it. Shorter people will need high feet but the hole you are going for is actually a big jug flake so commit and you will be rewarded. Potential kneebar is you want just before it but not a great one. The traverse at the top was safe on jugs and you can even clip the last bolt of the route to the left if you need to. Final move is big but great rests before.
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6c+ | ★★★ Buona Serra | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Really nice tufa line that hasn’t been polished into oblivion yet. Kneebars are crucial for pump…
Huge runout just before the last bolt but it looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is. As soon as you move off the tufas you are on massive jugs and unless you are totally redlining you should be able to make it to the next bolt. Looking down the whip looked totally safe and not as big as from the ground. Go for it! |
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Lun 14.º Ag 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Malkata Vrattsá | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Raba | 30m, 11 | Basura | ||||
Bolts missing
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7- | ★★★ Samotniat katerach | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Runouts are very long, unnecessarily
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Sáb 12.º Ag 2023 - Slaveevi skali | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Darvenia | 28m, 15 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
great balance challenger
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Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Sedemte ezera | |||||||
bouldŭring | |||||||
6A+ | ★★ Haramiyata - con Dany Chanda | 6m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Terrifying without pads
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Mié 19.º Jul 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Spartak | |||||||
5a | ★★ Bilbo Baggins - con Nikki | 26m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Also a third route here - Tom Bombadil 5C
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Sáb 15.º Jul 2023 - Slaveevi skali | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kasmeta na nachinaeshtia | 28m, 15 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
strong and massive crag
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Jue 6.º Jul 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Vitosha Kominite Goren komin Iztochno krilo | |||||||
4b | ★★★ Roshavoto - con Art Vandelay | 45m, 15 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Led first pitch
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Mié 5.º Jul 2023 - Sofia | |||||||
Vitosha Kominite Goren komin Iztochno krilo | |||||||
4b | ★★★ Roshavoto - con jim bean | 45m, 15 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
2 pitches led the second
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Mar 4.º Jul 2023 - Kostenets | |||||||
Nad patya | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ WiFi | 16m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Saw some locals trying it anf gave a flash try. Sometimes is better to trust your initial thoughts cause i saw them trying to do the crux from the right side that is a very hard beta and definitely not 6b+. Instead my thoughts where to stay on the direct to left side.
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6a | ★★★ Gushter v kosata | 17m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very very beautiful especially in thr arete
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5c+ | ★★ Defitsitna radost za naroda | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Long and enjoyable
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6a+ | ★★★ Hotel Kalifornia | 30m, 14 | ★ Buena | ||||
Very average and slimy first part but amazing laybacking second.
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Mié 14.º Jun 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
5b | ★ Pop folk L1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Great route, super easy up to th eoverhanging part right before the anchor. The crux is cruxy
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Lun 12.º Jun 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Sever | |||||||
7b+ Fácil | ★★★ Mlechen pat — 3 intentos | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
It's anything but boring Felt just as hard as the adjacent routes 7b/+
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Dom 11.º Jun 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
Pop folk | |||||||
7b Duro | ★★ Defloratsia L1 | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Well apparently the tradition here is to first do the route and then collectively pretend its a 7b - sure, happy to oblige It could have been 7b, maybe when Khan Asparuh founded Bulgaria, but ok, I'm sure I have logged 7bs in the other extreme - lets restore the balance in the universe #karma.
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Dom 11.º Jun 2023 - Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | |||||||
El Choro | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ O! Maria | 30m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice long and varied. Different styles and pleasant climbing! Good warmup in the cave!
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Jue 8.º Jun 2023 - Vratsa | |||||||
Golyamata dupka Right side | |||||||
7a+ | Boryana — 2 intentos | 7 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Loose rock
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