Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Mar 8.º Ag 2023 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.7 Duro | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | |||||
5.7 Duro | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | |||||
Felt like glued (not always solidly) kitty litter.
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5.7 PG13 | ★ Arms Race | 20m | |||||
5.6 ~5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | |||||
Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.
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5.9 | ★★ Creationism | 23m, 7 | |||||
Failed to read the downward right traverse.
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Sáb 15.º Jul 2023 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | |||||
5.7 PG13 | ★ Arms Race | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 22.º Oct 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Fine Line Between Fear and Flying - con Madison Bailey, Ellen Gleadow | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
SEND!!!
Started from the first quickdraw.
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5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata - con Madison Bailey, Ellen Gleadow | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Mié 19.º Oct 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Fine Line Between Fear and Flying - con Madison Bailey | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Toproped clean pulling from the first draw to achieve the route
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5.11c | ★★★ Fine Line Between Fear and Flying - con Madison Bailey | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 15.º Oct 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Arms Race | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Boogie Wonderland | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A good flash, placing the gear
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5.10+ | ★★ Blackout | 9m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Still working on figuring out this sequence again!
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5.9 | ★★ Five Fingers | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 11.º Oct 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
new personal toprope speed record: 2:03
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5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
new toprope personal speed record: 4:45
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Lun 10.º Oct 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Seascape Direct | 27m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Dom 9.º Oct 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Seascape Direct | 27m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Seascape Direct | 27m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Homer Erectus | 12m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Flaccid | 12m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Vie 30.º Sep 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Blackout | 9m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Tried this on TR with a trad rack after bailing to those anchors. No memory of the sequence it's very hard LOL.
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5.9 | ★★ Five Fingers | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Stick-clipped the first bolt, climbed to it. Tried again and climbed a bit past it then bailed to Blackout.
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5.10b 5.10b/c | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Mié 21.º Sep 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11 | ★★ Good Country Lovin' | 24m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Toproped this as a project again - whew crimps! Nice route.
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5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Finally redpointed this after years o working up to it. Pre-placed the nut for the send.
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5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
toproped again to place gear
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5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
learned to place gear on toprope
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Mié 31.º Ag 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Dom 21.º Ag 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Easy Company | 21m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lun 15.º Ag 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11 | ★★ Good Country Lovin' | 24m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A narrow toprope send with lots of pump on this long and exciting route.
We couldn't get the rope to pull through from the bottom so we had to scramble down to pull it from the top. Options are to lead/follow, scramble to the top of yellow fever with the rope to rappel down, or scramble down to pull the rope. Could use some lower-off chains. |
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5.11 | ★★ Good Country Lovin' | 24m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Toproped this to see the moves. Ended up traversing a bit late under the overhang for the finish moves of Gabe...
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5.10a | ★★ Flaccid | 12m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.8 | ★★ It'll Be Fine | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 7.º Ag 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
it was dry!
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5.10b | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.10b 5.10b/c | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Iron Hand | 20m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Iron Hand | 20m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Creationism | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Jue 28.º Jul 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Ivan's Corner | 20m | |||||
Jue 14.º Jul 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | |||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | |||||
Dom 26.º Jun 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Size Matters Not | 12m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Lead this and used a black tricam between bolts 2 and 3 as well as a 0.75 cam up top to protect the runout before the anchor.
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5.9 | ★★ Homer Erectus | 12m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Flaccid | 12m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 18.º Jun 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Size Matters Not | 12m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Toproped this to get the moves. Somehow remembered parts of it!
Now working up to leading it, and leading it with the lead-in from the 'rap-practice' bolts. |
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5.10a | ★★ Flaccid | 12m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Aha, finally redpointed this and placed my own gear. Had a solid pink tricam in the lower ledge.
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5.10d | ★ Rap Practice | 7m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Toproped this with a draw re-direct lowering off from "Size Matter's Not". Start beneath the boulder for full value. Also don't use the boulder behind you. Finishes on the ledge above the bolts.
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5.9 | ★★ Creationism | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lun 13.º Jun 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.10b 5.10b/c | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Dom 12.º Jun 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Pucker Up | 18m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
5.10d | ★ Pucker Up | 18m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
5.10d | ★ Pucker Up | 18m, 4 | ★ Buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Candy | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sáb 21.º Mayo 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Creationism | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Jue 19.º Mayo 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
it was quite wet
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5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
cleaned it
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5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Seascape | 27m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Whew, what a wandering ramble. Fell on the Yellow Fever part at the beginning and then traversing past fifth element/pothead. Nice line!
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5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.10b 5.10b/c | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Easy Company | 21m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sáb 7.º Mayo 2022 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Spray Down | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Maggie | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Went up to lead this for the first time this season. Fell before the crux, rested and finished it.
Placed a # 2, 1, 0.75, and a 0.5 |
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5.10b 5.10b/c | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Five Fingers | 20m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
5.8 | ★★ It'll Be Fine | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lun 30.º Ag 2021 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Toproped to the 'left,' to start and to the 'right,' to the end, going 'direct,' over the roof instead of out left. Really just messing around on the toprope before cleaning it because it was too wet to climb another route due to rain.
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Sáb 28.º Ag 2021 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.
Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts. |
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5.9 | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 18m, 4 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.
Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts. |
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5.10b 5.10b/c | ★★★ Hysteria | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Fell off in the middle part of the crux, wasn't paying much attention. Finished it and set up the anchor and draws on it. A great route.
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5.8 | ★ Wet Chalk | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
Well I redpointed/onsighted it years ago. Friend set up the draws for practice, I cleaned it. Good stuff.
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Vie 6.º Ag 2021 - Flatrock | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Yellow Fever | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Okay, so I tried to second it clean to learn the gear on this route, and I learned some things about the gear, but I also almost got a 0.4 X4 BD cam stuck in the horizontal placement near the top. Taking and pulling on the trigger with 2 hands seemed to dislodge it. A classic line, still lots to offer me.
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