Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mar 28.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Les Maitres du Monde | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Bibendum | 35m | |||||
Yeah buddeh
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Mar 28.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Mawoi P1
1
6b+
| 50m | |||||
P1 only. A little insecure
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Mar 28.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Main Morte Polytechnique | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Bismillah | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Nice route, mostly good pockets through the steep bulge. With a final boulder at the end. Explosive final move
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7b+ | ★ Dans ta Gueule | ★ Buena | |||||
The grade is due to a hard crimpy boulder at the end of the overhang, too hard for me.
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6b+ | ★★ Réglette du Graal | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Nice, steep, pumpy.
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6a | L'Echauf | 20m | |||||
Not sure if there was a new route bolted but very nice, good holds, steep, short
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Mar 28.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Fenrir | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Rêve de Fer | 120m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice route in amazing grey rock. Climbing is rather steep therefore you have a lot of air underneath.
The whole route has new bolts and the anchors are positioned a bit differently than in our guide book. For the approach you have to rappel (or scramble) about 10/15m straight down. There are a few different anchors you can choose from, at the correct anchor the name is written next to it.
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Mar 28.º Mayo 2024 - Monte Canarincu | |||||||
4c | ★★ 17 - con Catharina Zahn | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Top Platte.
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5a | 13 - con Catharina Zahn | 14m | Ni te molestes | ||||
Nicht alles fest.
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Mar 28.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Malesherbes Buthiers Piscine Off circuit boulders | |||||||
6C Fácil | ★★ La P'tite Arche | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Very aesthetic line and probably the coolest feature I have climbed. Double toe hook starts are fun, but I don't rate it classic personally.
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6C+ | Le Roi d'Été — 12 intentos | ||||||
Note to self, brush off all moss before trying to climb unpopular slab.
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Natilik | |||||||
6b |
★★★ Chérubin
- con
Matt King
1
6a+
Felt harder than the crux pitch
2
6b
What a feature, shit the fucken bed!
3
5b
| ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Nice to top out the mount and explore the top on a sunny afternoon.
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Les Alpilles | |||||||
Fontvieille Grand yeux noirs | |||||||
5a ~5a+ | ★★★ Tableau noir | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Voie incroyable! Cotation 5a (topo pré 2022) juste sur l'ensemble de la voie sauf pour le dernier pas qui mérite son 5c
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Lac d'Annecy | |||||||
Les Dents de Lanfon | |||||||
3b | ★★★ Traversée classique des arêtes - con Felix | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Mostly free without rope.
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Natilik | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Chérubin | ||||||
Lead P1 & 3. P2 is absolutely stellar
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Cuvier Bas Cuvier Circuit 6 Rouge TD+ | |||||||
6A | ★★★ La Marie Rose — 3 intentos | 5m | |||||
Blew that flash
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Baume les Dames | |||||||
Sous Buen Le coude | |||||||
6c | ★★★ variante | 27m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Schon der Anfang ist richtig toll und knifflig, sobald man in die Variante abzweigt dann schönste Balance an kleinen Griffen.
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6a+ | ★★ du vent dans les cordes | 27m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Sehr schöne, technische Verschneidung.
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6c | ★★ infortune | 27m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Super Tour. Nicht leicht den einfachsten Weg zu finden!
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West Roche aux Sabots Circuit 1 Bleu D | |||||||
3C | ★ Ligne Sécante | 3m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Font slabs are just different 😄
|
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6a | ★★ Les sucettes à l'anis | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
My favourite of the bunch
|
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6a+ | ★★ Papyrus | 25m | |||||
The RH line from the shared bolt
|
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6b+ Duro | ★★ Chant de cristal — 2 intentos | 25m | |||||
Thought it was papyrus, they share the same bolt
|
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Imbut Imbut | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Liberte Surveillee | 130m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice route! Well bolte, some bigger cracks which are fun to climb, mostly juggy hardest pitch is rather steep and crimpy
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Free Tibet | |||||||
6b | ★ Redressement Discal | 130m, 14 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Very nice route, well bolted. I think you need 14 draws between plus dummy runner
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
Main Morte Lycée | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ La Foire aux Escargots | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Very nice route! A bit pumpy, a bit bouldery, nice nix
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie - con Matt King, Cartland, Elaine | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Some jumning
|
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6a | ★ A Patrick - con Matt King, Cartland, Elaine | 20m | |||||
Crikey
|
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6a+ | ★ Ceuse les souliers - con Matt King, Cartland, Elaine | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Big wet undercling
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5c | ★ Tête d'ampoule - con Matt King, Cartland, Elaine | 20m | |||||
5c+ to first anchors as top was wet
|
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7a | ★★★ La Javanaise - con Matt King, Cartland, Elaine | 25m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Awesome route, but far too busy to squeeze a second lap in today.
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Lac d'Annecy | |||||||
Angon | |||||||
5b | ★ Axterix - con Sonnendeck, K., A. | 8m | |||||
Keine 5b wenn man den rechten Riß benutzt
|
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5b | L'aigle - con Sonnendeck, K., A. | 8m | Medio | ||||
Abgespeckt, aber solide Griffe
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Mami e Ctuluh | |||||||
7b |
★★★ Les Rideaux de Gwendal
- con
pili
1
6c
2
6b+
3
7b
4
6c
5
6b+
| ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Un poco pulida
Después del 5 largo Combinación con +”Pichenibule + ctuluh”
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Lac d'Annecy | |||||||
Mont Veyrier | |||||||
5c II ~6a | ★ Zig Zag - con Felix | 180m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Very crowded but astonishing view. Good an comfortable belays.
|
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Annot | |||||||
La Vire intermédiaire | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Dedicata alla val di mello | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Jusque du n•6 !!
|
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
7a+ |
★★★ Beau mouvement sur fond bleu P1
1
7a+
20m
| 20m, 13 | |||||
Warm up inspect. Great moves, will try another day
|
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche — 2 intentos | 20m | |||||
Bigger links. Next goals will be from the deck to the 4th and from above the crux to the top
|
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6b+ | ★★ Chant de cristal | 25m | |||||
Hanging draws
|
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Trois Pignons West Roche aux Sabots Off circuit boulders | |||||||
7A | ★ Jus d'Orange | ★ Buena | |||||
Urgh, split tip. This thing bites.
|
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Le Croisic | |||||||
La cathédrale | |||||||
5+ | La dame blanche - con Ifig | ||||||
Réalisé en moulinette assuré d'en haut. Je pense que j'étais un peu trop sur la droite, rendant la 2e moitié plus simple.
|
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4+ | ★ Le bedeau - con ifig | ★ Buena | |||||
Réalisé en moulinette assuré d'en haut.
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Annot | |||||||
La cave | |||||||
5b ~6a+ | ★★ L’illumination | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Recotée 6a+ dans le nouveau topo.
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Le Moulin de Bertrand | |||||||
Barrage | |||||||
7a | ★★★ majorité absolue - con Etienne | 25m | |||||
Go up the corner to easily reach the second bolt in the wall. Rope routing is important, best is to enlengthen the second bolts' quickdraw (in the sloped wall).
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie — 3 intentos - con Matt King, Catlandia, Elaine | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Fell on the jump twice. Think I have it sorted for tomorrow. I reckon the short wall before the overhang is the crux
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6a+ | ★★ Babylone - con Matt King, Catlandia, Elaine | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
The worst climb I've done here, and that's not saying much. Tough to read the start
|
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8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche | 20m | |||||
All the moves now. The pogo to throw for a pocket in the last hard section is rad
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Sept Nains | |||||||
6a | Cintas puestas ★★ Blanche neige - con Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Gear on makes a huge difference on the slabby middle section. Respect Felix for placing the draws. You get rewarded with a juggy slight overhanging finish if you manage the slab.
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Renards | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Baileys baleze - con Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | ||||||
Simply done
|
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6c+ | Picon Bière - con Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | ||||||
Way to hard the overhang.
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Pignu | |||||||
Les Antennes | |||||||
6c+ ~6c | Spiderman - con Catharina Zahn | 12m | |||||
Definierter Einstiegsboulder.
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Renards | |||||||
6b | ★★ Arc en ciel - con Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 24m, 11 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Tear down
|
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Vie 24.º Mayo 2024 - Vesancy | |||||||
5a | Objectif bac | Medio | |||||
Roche un peu mouillée mais ça le fait !
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Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Le Thaurac | |||||||
La Face Sud Benje Romane | |||||||
6a | ★ Tomber la chemise - con Boris | 20m | |||||
Before the cliff the route turns right to another bolt. After climbing straight I hardly recommend to go this way, otherwise going straight will make this Route harder
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Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Tamié | |||||||
★★ ?8 - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
The left variant of the next route left to 'Le Caprice'
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5c+ | ?1 - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 15m | |||||
#warmup in the ramp with alternative exit whoich is harder than 4c.
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6b+ | Cintas puestas Casanova Solo - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck, Felix | 10m, 4 | |||||
First 2 bolts pre-clipped for the sake of safety.
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Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Roche-Ballue | |||||||
Adrénaline | |||||||
5b+ | ★★ Neurotransmetteur - con Stephane de Rez’in&Roc | 21m, 10 | ★ Buena | ||||
Voie très sympa mais roche friable et encore humide donc attention
|
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6c | ★★ 6C possible ligne 1 | 10m, 5 | |||||
Désherbage et purge au niveau du relais
Plein de repos et utilisation du dièdre à droite au départ
|
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Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
North Fontainebleau Rocher Canon Yellow circuit PD+ (nº 2) | |||||||
3B ~3A+ | ★★ Yellow 22 | ||||||
only drove to roche cannon for this
|
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Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie — 5 intentos | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
What a ripper! I haven't done a dyno quite like that on rock ever, let alone as the last move of the route! Super fun. Boy is is good here in Ceuse
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Chant de cristal - con Matt King, Caitlind, Elaine | 25m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Went the wrong way at the crux. Chalky pockets everywhere.
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6c+ | ★★★ El Daü — 2 intentos - con Matt King, Caitlind, Elaine | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Felt much better today, sequences dialled then fired it off. Not sure about this converting to a ewbank 22...
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
7a | ★★ Livingstone - con Matt King, Caitlind, Elaine | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Got the 6b done comfortably enough. The second pitch was a truly transcendental experience. I haven't been scared like that in a while.
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6b+ | ★★★ Le Vol du Pilatus | 35m | |||||
Fun
|
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
8a | ★★★ Carte Blanche | 20m | |||||
Couldn't figure out the boulder at the 4th bolt. Will come back after discussing some beta
|
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Massif de la Sainte-Baume | |||||||
La cour des miracles Gauche | |||||||
9a Fácil | ★★★ Lune de miel | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Nice route with 2 boulder sections and a rest between.
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Falaise Mandrin | |||||||
Face Sud | |||||||
4c | Les bottes à Mandrin - con Kai, Sonnendeck | 10m, 6 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Speckige Rampe
|
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5b |
Droit dans mes bottes P1
- con
Kai, Sonnendeck
1
5b
| Medio | |||||
Nicht zu weit links einsteigen.
|
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Carrière du Fier | |||||||
5b | No. 3 - con Kai, Sonnendeck | 17m, 9 | Ni te molestes | ||||
Mentales Plattentraining. Lose Griffe und Tritte erhöhen die Anspannung.
|
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Falaise Mandrin | |||||||
Face Sud | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Ca me botte - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 10m, 3 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good, but very short. Probably avoided the crux because one can't see the crucial hole from below.
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
North Fontainebleau Mont Ussy Red circuit TD+ (nº 4) | |||||||
5C | ★★ Bille Hard | ||||||
Like usually s* topout
|
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Gorges du Blavet | |||||||
Face sud L'origine du monde | |||||||
4b | ★ Mamy on sight | 17m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
The local topo says 5b+, grade wise. The first few moves up the step are hard for smaller climbers, since the good crimp is out of reach for them. Grade is in the 5a-5c+ range, depending on your size...
Nice slab/ridge after the second bolt.
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6b | ★★ Marylou - con Matt King, Catland, Elaine | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Tough crux, nice pumpy coral otherwise as per other routes on this wall.
|
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Berlin | |||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Opération houblon P1
- con
Matt King, Catland, Elaine
1
7b+
| 18m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Really awesome first half into a confounding and tough conclusion. Had to stick clip before I could commit to the move into the undercling.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos - con Matt King, Catland, Elaine | 25m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Astounding line to behold. Very tough for me at the moment, and also wet at the anchor. Was quite gripped at times and took some massive wingers
|
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7a | ★★★ La Javanaise | 25m | |||||
Proper hard and a bit run out. Loved it
|
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Berlin | |||||||
7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos | 25m | |||||
Wet at the top so didn't have another go
|
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6b+ | ★★ Super Mario — 2 intentos | 20m, 7 | |||||
Punted off the last move on the onsight. Slippery and tricky
|
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur Pirouette | |||||||
5c | ? | ||||||
I think I lead this climb. Had a "7" scratched into the rock. Last section before the main path. A great route. Slabby and easier than it looks. Worth a go.
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur Lascaux | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★★ Le dièdre des mulots | ||||||
You will know when you meet the crux...or just below it.....big jugs.... Terribly polished by many hands.... Most of which, I reckon, went back down. This is a hard route for 5b.....and the crux moves are polished. Not really a nice route.
|
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4c ~4b+ | ★★ L'escalier de main | ||||||
Bridging involved. Three routes very close together. Not a bad route. Not sure where the 6a neighbour goes
|
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Mar 21.º Mayo 2024 - Grande Jeanne | |||||||
Secteur des Daims | |||||||
5c | Rage de daim | ||||||
Starting moves are the hardest (trying to figure the correct start is also hard).
|
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5b ~5b+ | Adaim et Eve | ||||||
Not sure of start. The LHS is not the way I reckon......came onto the rope trying to figure out the moves. Easyish after that.
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Lun 20.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
Cuvier Cuvier Rempart Off circuit boulders | |||||||
6A | ★★★ L'Angle Allain — 3 intentos | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
It’s great, buts it’s over before it earns a third star I think.
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Lun 20.º Mayo 2024 - Les Gorges du Verdon | |||||||
L'Escalès Belvedère de la Carelle Dingo | |||||||
6a | ★★ Passion d'Amour | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Really enjoyed! Jugs the whole way. A 80m rope will get you from the rap to the anchors
|
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Lun 20.º Mayo 2024 - Rochefort-du-Gard | |||||||
Saveur du soir | |||||||
6a+ | Messala | Ni te molestes | |||||
Sharp
|
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4c | ★ Rêve de gosse | Ni te molestes | |||||
Sharp
|
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Lun 20.º Mayo 2024 - Les Pérouses | |||||||
Falaise | |||||||
5c | ★★★ Sous l'Oeil des Papaces (L1) - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Wow what a route. Jugs up to the crux. Then extraordinary laybacks with good feet. I'm loving it.
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for. |
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5c | ★★★ Amazone (L1) - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for.
|
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5c |
La Centrale P1
- con
Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck
1
| 35m, 15 | Medio | ||||
The crux move was quite hard for me. Pulling right on a small side-pull-crimp, getting the left foot into a small crimp (swapping with the hand), standing up, supported by a mono pocket and finally a dyno somehow to the big waterhole jug. Great relief to stick that move. Would have been quite a whiper I guess.
Did not continue into the second pitch because I was not motivated enough. |
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5c ~5b+ | ★★★ Super Lunule - con Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 35m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Wow. Worth the approach.
|
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Vercors | |||||||
Coulmes Presles Fond du cirque | |||||||
6b |
★★ Absolue
- con
Malcolm Urie, keren
1
6a
2
6a
3
6a
4
6b
5
6b
6
6a
Omg
7
4
| 200m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Beautiful climb in an unusual crack climbing style for Presles. Good luck for pitch6 in an awkward chimney. A real adventure even if you feel strong for the grade
|
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
6c | ★★ Bonnye And Clyde — 2 intentos - con Matt King, Caitland, Elaine | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Techy start boulder with a cool thumb hold, into mostly mindless jugging
|
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6a+ | ★★ Papyrus - con Matt King, Caitland, Elaine | 25m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Awesome climbing to finish the day
|
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Un Pont Sur L'infini | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Aller en Chine | 35m | |||||
Sans méthode, paires déjà posées.
|
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Le Caroux | |||||||
Tour Carrée | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Grand Livre | 70m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Super beautiful crack!!
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Céüse | |||||||
Demi Lune | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie — 2 intentos | 20m | |||||
Fun dyno finish
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Mont Dol | |||||||
Hangar | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★ Balafre — 3 intentos | 30m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Plus difficile que ça voisine de gauche qui est 7a également
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Dom 19.º Mayo 2024 - Fontainebleau | |||||||
North Fontainebleau Mont Ussy Yellow circuit PD- (n°2) | |||||||
2 | ★ L'Arrivée Bof | ★ Buena | |||||
Last ascent, will be back!:)
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