Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 17.º Jun 2023 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Muttental Hintere Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Knackpunkt - con Ivan, Sebastián | 12m, 3 | ||||
TR "send" 2nd go.
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Mar 24.º Ag 2021 - Albbruck | ||||||
Wasserschloßfluh | ||||||
7- | ★★ Magic Mushrooms - con Katrin Bauer | 30m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Interesting and challenging on edges and blocky slopers. Not too hard as long as the bodyposition is right. Maybe even 3 star worthy.
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5+ | ★ Alprausch - con Katrin Bauer | 27m | Medio | |||
Awkward, shallow chimney then alpine touch headwall. Why not.
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7- 7 | ★★ Hammerhart - con Katrin Bauer | 32m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
A pleasant first pitch. The short, second one not so obvious, partly awkward. Supposedly harder than the route to the right.
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5+ | ★ Steinbeisser - con Katrin Bauer | 27m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
5 | ★ Goldfinger - con Katrin Bauer | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Interesting, rather exposed top part.
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Lun 12.º Abr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Schaumschläger - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 37m, 12 | ★★★ Clásico | |||
warm-up #repeat
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Sáb 10.º Abr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand | ||||||
7+ 7 | ★★ Zwiespalt - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 15m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.
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6- | ★ Sonnenkönig - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.
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7+ | ★★ Ansbacher Weg - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke Scheumann | 14m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP
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Vie 9.º Abr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Wilde 13 - con Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 14m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP
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7- | ★★ Kaminpfeiler - con Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 15m, 4 | ||||
#lastrouteoftheday tired
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6- | ★ This is the end - con Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 15m, 4 | ||||
warm-up.
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7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - con Frauke Scheumann, Sebastian Wolf | 14m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
#repeat 2nd warm-up.
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Jue 8.º Abr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ R9 - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
#repeat warm-up.
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6 | ★★ Mon Marie - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 15m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
#repeat warm-up
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7 | ★★ Erste Affäre - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 14m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Fun, rather bouldery crux.
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7+ | ★★ Panische Zeiten - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 14m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP
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Mar 30.º Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Lehmriss | ||||||
7 | ★★ Weg der letzten Helden - con Sebastian Wolf | 35m, 13 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
#Repeat.
Less heady this time but still a tough 6b.
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6- |
★★ Jungbrunnen MSL
- con
Sebastian Wolf
| 40m, 11 | ★ Buena | |||
First multi-pitch of the year as a little bit of practice! 2nd and 3rd pitch on good rock, compared to other routes here. Technically possible as one single pitch but the rope drag would probably be crippling.
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6- | ★★ Scherbenhaufen - con Sebastian Wolf | 22m, 8 | Medio | |||
7- 7 | ★★ Elefant im Porzellanladen - con Sebastian Wolf | 22m, 9 | Ni te molestes | |||
A slab/ arête but the apparent line is not the route unfortunately. The guide does not clarify either. I traversed right at 5th bolt instead of going onto the slab on the left of the arête but that's more like 6c+/ 7a and you end up climbing on horrible brown rock. After watching Basti, the easiest line seemed to be to escape onto the slab between bolt 4 and 5.
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Mar 23.º Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Lehmriss | ||||||
7+ 7- | ★★ Rutschbahn - con Katrin Bauer | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Really tricky sloper-arête. Footholds are mostly smears. Some crimps to save you. Worth 6b+ in todays shape, I think. Definitely harder than "Weg der letzten Helden".
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7 | ★★ Weg der letzten Helden - con Katrin Bauer | 35m, 13 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
100 times better than it looks with nice, techy moves! The topo-description is accurate – adventurous and airy. The rock is still quite fresh. Good friction compared to other climbs here! I linked the two pitches. (Revolver draw for 1st anchor, 2nd pitch: unclipped 1st bolt and alpine draw for 2nd. Still some rope drag from the intermediate anchor.) Passing the final bulge, my first idea was to break out to the right but there's some vegetation/ small tree stumps blocking the holds. Managed to climb almost straight over the bulge in the end after downclimbing two moves. Grading this is a little difficult. The moves are not so hard but the climbing is sometimes awkward, in parts not so obvious and requires some confidence. I'd say solid 7, alpine touch.
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Mar 23.º Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Muppetshow I | ||||||
5 6- | ★ Fozzie Bear (direkt über die Haken) (Fozzie Bear) - con Katrin Bauer | 20m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
A slab with a rather thin crux and an odd diagonal dihedral.
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4+ 4 | ★ The Monsters - con Katrin Bauer | 15m, 7 | Medio | |||
Destroyed by traffic.
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Lun 1.º Mar 2021 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
6 6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - con Frauke | 18m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Left variant. #repeat
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8- | ★★ M.f.G. M.A. - con Tillmann | 18m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Quite tough today with some slightly greasy/ muddy holds. Also lacking endurance after the long "max power only" phase.
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5 5- | ★ Phönix - con Tillmann | 18m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Okay warmup. Didn't really trust the footholds on the left side of the corner.
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Jue 25.º Feb 2021 - Sauerland | ||||||
Ebbe- und Lennegebirge Unterer Elberskamp Südwand | ||||||
2 | ★ Slapstick | ★ Buena | ||||
Seems like a good first outdoor-route. A lot more friction than on the vertical main wall!
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7 | ★★ Dr. Eisenbart - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | Medio | ||||
Awkward moves on okayish rock. Still worth doing. Quite a fight for the grade! Dihedral (cruxes) are easy by definition, it seems.
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6 5+ | ★ No. 40 - End of Exploring? - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | 26m, 6 | Medio | |||
8- | ★ Blutgemetzel - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | ★ Buena | ||||
A boulderproblem at the 2nd bolt and some awkward and balancy parts.
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7- | ★ Nadelkissen - con Sebastian Wolf, Frauke | ★ Buena | ||||
Vie 4.º Dic 2020 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
8- | ★★ Laokoon - con David | 18m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
7 | ★★ Tunnel Blick | 18m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
6 6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - con Sebastian Wolf | 18m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
7+ | ★★ Kiss or Kill - con David | 18m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
5 | ★★ Clara - con Sebastian Wolf | 19m, 9 | Medio | |||
Very incut, slippery jugs that are a little bit too good to be true. No obvious line.
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Mar 24.º Nov 2020 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
6 | ★★ Tanzende Spinne - con Sebastian W. | 16m, 8 | Medio | |||
Good, technical climbing at the very top. Bottom half quite awkward and slick. Not that easy with freezing fingers! 5c at least.
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8- | ★★ Laokoon - con Tillmann | 18m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Far better than expected! If this wasn't chipped, I'd give it three stars. Nice moves! Flash after Basti and Tillmann tried it.
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8- | ★★ M.f.G. M.A. - con Sebastian W. | 18m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
redpoint 2nd go overall. Surprisingly good climbing! #VVV
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Mié 11.º Nov 2020 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Kiss or Kill - con Sebastian W. | 18m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A really nice route! Quite pumpy with few rests and open holds. Nice moves.
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7 | ★★ Tunnel Blick - con Sebastian W. | 18m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Quite good! Laybacking!
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6 6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - con Sebastian W. | 18m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Didn't expect such good climbing here. A really cool, easy going crack system. Mostly hand-sized but also fingers and fist. Lots of holds on both sides of it.
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Mié 28.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Vorblöcke Kapuzenkuppe | ||||||
5A | ★★ Dammriss | 2m | ★ Buena | |||
#barefoot while others were projecting "Bahnverbindung".
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Lun 26.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Atoll | ||||||
5C+ | ★★ First Blood - con Jannis Z, Hanka | 2m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Cool gaston finger lock!
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Studentenklippengruppe Tränketal Kapuzenkuppe | ||||||
5A | ★★ How High - con Micha Rausch | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice line! Traverse finish and not all the way up.
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic | ||||||
6B | ★★★ Gallionsfigur | 3m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Warm-up. More exciting than last time because it already got dark.
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Atoll | ||||||
5C | ★★ Sex hoch vier - con Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★ Buena | |||
Very short and juggy but an interesting mantle.
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5B | ★ Blutzoll - con Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★ Buena | |||
Weird that it starts on the block.
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Teufelskanzel (Bouldering) Buddha | ||||||
5C 6A | ★★ Bandha - con Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Very short but two nice moves on cool holds. Felt more like 5B/C to me.
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5A | ★ Mikado - con Hanka, Jannis | 2m | ★ Buena | |||
Started in the overhang but with feet on another small block. Fun!
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Flash Ziegenrückenturm | ||||||
6B | ★★ Exodus - con Michael Rausch, Marko Rausch | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Cool problem on the right side of an arête. Feels impossible at first. Granite smearing, balance and slopers.
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Sáb 24.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Flash Flash | ||||||
6B 6A | ★★ Anfang - con Marko Rausch, Micha Rausch | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Hard! Juggy on sharp slots and a very specific "smear, stand up and reach" problem at the very top. I saw 7a/b boulderers not sending.
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Jue 22.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Treppensteingruppe Treppenstein - Bouldering Titanic | ||||||
5B | ★ Linker Mantle - con Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | |||||
5B | Der Gaucho - con Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | |||||
4 | ★ Rechter Mantle - con Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | |||||
6B | ★★★ Gallionsfigur - con Marco Rausch, Micha Rausch | 3m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Great variety of moves. Sloper, edges, pinch, kneebar, mantle. Awesome. 2nd go.
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Lun 5.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Ziegenrückengruppe Schlösschen | ||||||
4 | ★ Pompe - con Katrin Bauer | 5m | ★ Buena | |||
Katrin's erster draußen-boulder. Ziemlich hoch dafür!
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4 | Abstiegsmantle - con Katrin Bauer | 2m | ||||
5B | ★ Sehhilfe - con Katrin Bauer | 4m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Dom 4.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Adlerklippe | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Ganz großes Kino - con Katrin Bauer | 35m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Wow, so much friction! Not sure if I bypassed the 2nd crux by climbing the big flake 5 meters right of the last bolt (Last big ledge). Would've been the most awkward, reachy sloper move ever if I didn't. Nevertheless: The steep part is amazing! Didn't place any gear (no obvious placements in the spots where you'd want them, I think). Run-out that way in the first half but it was easy enough to still feel comfortable.
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Dom 4.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Schlafender Löwe | ||||||
7 | ★★ Rechte Pfingstkante - con Katrin Bauer | 24m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Rad moves at the top where the wall feels 2° overhanging. Definitely the hardest climbing I did in Okertal so far. After some playing around while lowering from the neighboring route, I figured I wanted to do it. Put some nuts in at the top beforehand. One of them I could not get out anymore. 1st bolt looks good. 2nd one on the "head wall" not so much. (used additional gear).
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6 6- | ★★ Einfache Variante - con Katrin Bauer | 25m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Good route! I see the point in british grades now. Not too hard but heady!! Good placements for big wires half way to the first bolt but then not much above. Used a 2nd bolt though.
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Sáb 3.º Oct 2020 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Adlerklippengruppe Schlafender Löwe | ||||||
5+ 4+ | ★★★ Ostwand-Verschneidung direkt - con Katrin Bauer | 30m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Great! According to my topo I did "Ostwand-Verschneidung Direkt 4+". The second half is really adventurous, immersive and not too easy! First try, it felt like oldschool, french 5c. The placements there are bomber though! Big wires and a red tourque-nut in my case. Dragon #3 and/ or 4 useful for the initial slab.
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4 | ★★ Kamera-Pfeiler - con Katrin Bauer | 21m | ★ Buena | |||
When I did this, I wasn't aware that I was doing it all trad because the dragon #3 that was still in, from doing the route next to this, seemed like such a good placement. That was also where the climbing was the hardest.
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7- | ★★★ Hühnerstallkante Direkter Einstieg (Direkte Hühnerstallkante) - con Katrin Bauer | 20m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Linked both direct variants, using all 5 bolts. Too exciting as a warm up but great! Nice and technical with an awkward crux above the 2nd bolt and a slab crux higher up. The top part is easy but run-out. Dragon #3 and red torque nut to mitigate. My first route in this area.
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6+ | Hui Buh - con Katrin Bauer | 21m, 2 | ★ Buena | |||
Technical but easy below the first bolt. The rooflet itself is a little hard to read but fun.
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Vie 7.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Lindenstein | ||||||
4 | ★ Ostkante - con Katrin Bauer | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Nice view. The sling was removed. One possible sling placement looked worn out so maybe thats why. I put a sling of my own somewhere else.
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5+ | ★ Holger Danske - con Katrin Bauer | 16m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Funky start. I'm sure I didn't take the easiest way. Nice pebble slab to the top of the tower.
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6+ 6+/7- | ★★ Boxdorfer Weg - con Katrin Bauer | 15m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.
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Mié 5.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
5 | ★ Cafe Caspary - con Katrin Bauer | 9m, 4 | Medio | |||
7+ | ★★ Kaputtbohrer - con Katrin Bauer | 10m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.
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7- | ★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten - con Katrin Bauer | 9m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!
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5 | ★★ Frankenplaisir - con Katrin Bauer | 9m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Fun and easy climbing if you can find the sequence and the holds.
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Mar 4.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Treunitzer Klettergarten | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Vertikale (R4) - con Katrin Bauer | 22m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
5+ 4/4+ | ★ R5 - con Katrin Bauer | 15m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
6+ | ★★ Pfeilerweg. (R7) - con Katrin Bauer | 18m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
6 6- | ★ Streck Dich! (R 11) - con Katrin Bauer | 13m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Lun 3.º Ag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Hinterer Teil | ||||||
8- | ★★ Alte und Jungnasen - con Katrin Bauer | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP
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3 | ★ Steile Rinne | 11m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
5- 4+ | ★ Adams Rippe | 12m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
5- | ★★ Spirale | 14m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
7- 6+ | ★★ Schweizer Käse | 10m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.
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Sáb 18.º Jul 2020 - Sauerland | ||||||
Ebbe- und Lennegebirge Borghauser Wand Sintersektor | ||||||
7+ | ★ Der Grosse Bär - con Stef fel, valldryzen, Patrick Becker | ★ Buena | ||||
A fun and very delicate climb. Feels like almost falling off for the most part.
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Sáb 18.º Jul 2020 - Sauerland | ||||||
Ebbe- und Lennegebirge Borghauser Wand Überhangsektor | ||||||
7 | ★★ Kaminweg - con Tabea, Stef fel, valldryzen | ★ Buena | ||||
Tricky corner and awkward moves to exit the rooflet.
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7- | ★ Captain Morgan - con Stef fel, Patrick Becker, valldryzen | ★ Buena | ||||
Quite good!
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Jue 18.º Jun 2020 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Isenberg Links | ||||||
3- 2+ | ★ Gemüseverschneidung | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Nice and easy and one of the few routes with an actual belay.
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4 4+ | ★★ Ostend | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
Apparently did a finish variant. Didn't feel as easy as the grade suggests. I'd give it 5b.
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7 | ★★ Essener Weg direkt | 17m | ★ Buena | |||
Fun and mostly juggy. Some odd moves in between.
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Jue 18.º Jun 2020 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Isenberg Rechts | ||||||
3 | ★ Treppe | 12m | ★ Buena | |||
Not bad! Not even that slabby!
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Jue 18.º Jun 2020 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Isenberg Links | ||||||
5 5+ | ★ Schmetterling | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Not sure if I did the direct finish variant.
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7- | ★★ Gisbert-Hecker-Weg | 17m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Interesting and not so obvious. Bolts a little too spaced to fall early, I thought.
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Dom 24.º Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Weiße Wand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Hier geblieben! - con KP, Biggi | 22m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.
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8 | ★★★ Bilderbuch - con KP, Biggi | 25m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP
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7- | ★★ Weiße Wand - con KP | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.
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Sáb 23.º Nov 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
7 | ★★ Für Dich - con Christoph Rauch | 28m | ★★★ Clásico | |||
Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!
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6+ | ★★ Ratte - con Christoph Rauch | 30m, 8 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A great climb! Felt 6a/+.
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5+ | ★★ Kleiner Bär - con Christoph Rauch | 30m | ★ Buena | |||
Probably did a "combi" of this and R4a plus the bulge (wrong indication in topo) plus traversing to the anchor to the left.
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