Ascensiones en Frankenjura Nord como varios tipos de ascensiones registradas por Tobias Auth

I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.

Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP

Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.

Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself.

Steep, mostly on big holds. Hard anchor clip. I fell trying to dyno to the last pocket which is the worst hold I had to use in the route. RP 2nd go clipping the anchor from an undercling, doing the move to the pocket statically and then "matching" the top pocket competition-style to have a legitimate ascent (8m route, 2m wingspan) #sportRP

Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP

Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP

#sportRP

Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.

Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!

Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move"

Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy!

By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today. #sportRP

Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP

#repeat Still pumpy!

#repeat 2nd warm-up.

Shirt off for the first time in Franken! Had no beta and found a good intuitive solution.

Delicate climbing to a boulder crux at mid height. Easy above.

Crux for me was keeping calm. Every move very doable.

Beautiful climbing to a somewhat awkward crux at the final bulge.

Consistent climbing to the crux just below the anchor. Fun to watch others on their onsight attempt. One of the best routes I know in Franken!

One of my Frankenjura favorites so far! Harder than its right neighbor but more beautiful. Typical Frankenjura bolting style - huge runout s but well placed bolts. Nice and relaxed slab to the bulge, then committing moves to the upper part which offers beautiful, logical and pumpy climbing. I used a 60cm draw below the bulge - you probably don't want to fall into any draw clipped to that bolt. Comitting move over the bulge, pumpy above. Airy bolting as well. Felt nowhere near 6b and a lot harder than other routes of the same grade in Franken.

Nice technical moves and surprisingly a good warm-up.

Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!

Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.

Jugs!

Fun, rather bouldery crux.

Flash in the dark with a headlamp after arriving late for our very first time in Franken! Got into a better flow than on my next day repeat.

Got a little confused and almost fell.

warm-up #repeat

Just great climbing. Onsighting it as the first route of the day felt so good!

Great climb except for 5 metres of chossy looking rock. Great view and probably the longest singlepitch I did so far.

Searching for holds above the overhang got pretty exhausting because there's a lot to choose from.

Polished 5b into good 6a+/b. Nice view.

Fun moves on big holds.

Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.

Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!

6+ in the Schwertner Guide. Felt hard for that grade and was quite polished - just like other routes in this sector.

I didn't find the "sloper crux" everyone was talking about. So for me the crux were the first moves.

Some moves felt a bit awkward.

A techy layback crack crux. Very nice.

#lastrouteoftheday tired

The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.

#repeat warm-up.

Consistent pocket endurance climbing. Good rock quality.

A great climb! Felt 6a/+.

Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.

Gear to first bolt by Chris.

Pumpy on big polished holds. We met Sean Villanueva at the crag. #fanboy

Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.

#repeat warm-up

Good climbing onto an exposed tower. Being on top is an experience on it's own.

My first route in Frankenjura!

Slightly chossy corner. Appropriate name - Probably a small people climb.

A slightly overhanging corner with big holds. A bit of scrambling onto a nice slab.