Ascensiones en Rolandfels teniendo Beta

I really loved working the moves on this route, it can climb very flowy or be a real battle if you don't find a way that works for you. I hope I get to try it again sometime (:

Also pretty cool pocket climbing, never too easy. Pumpy. Had to rest once.

This one was a lot easier and relaxing than JoJo (7+). Smooth homogenous pocket climbing.

Single hard section at the bulge, from small crimps into a huge jug. Saw some guys climbing it and they left the draws. Lucky flash go, boulder moves are usually not my favorite.

Severe power endurance section after 2/3rd of the route. There are actually enough handholds, but the non existing footholds make the moves super challenging. Could only climb the hardest section once with a number of high risk moves, didn't try a second time.

Cleaned the route in toprope, never too hard. The start actually is the hardest. Nice line, sometimes pretty distanced bolting and people climb not too close to the bolts.

Sehr harte Boulderstelle, bis dahin schöne Bewegungen!

Nicht geschenkt

Schmerzhaft...

Alle Züge geklettert.

2nd Go

A little uninspired on the left. Over the bulge on sharp holds, then diagonally up along with the other routes through partly chossy, partly vegetated rock.

A little better than the route on the left, already a good deal of polish on the holds.

Messed up the lower crux over the first overhang, barely made it to the cave again. Rested, once again, for ages, pulled up into the overhang, reached the final crimps, but couldn't find the right body position to reach up to the final jug … bummer.

I tried really hard onsighting this, because two beers were wagered by my friends in case I managed it. So I desperately clung to the wall, taking at least a few minutes to find a solution for the crux, arrived in the big cave below the final overhang totally drained. Luckily, you can sit there and relax for ages … and promptly sent my glasses down the wall when I took off my helmet. After that rest, I felt a confident that I would be able to finish it, but once you climb into that overhang, there's no turning back. I reached the two sharp crimps just before the anchor, but had no strength left whatsoever to do another move …

Angeguckt, schwer

SuperSuper

angeguckt

Super schöne und abwechslungsreiche Route!

am Kilpphenkel UH rausgerutscht.

One of the longer routes here and its run out for sure, tricky and fun sequences on pockets and a good rest before that final thuggy top.

Pumpy

Hard for 6a like everything here is

finger kaputt bei crux 2 weiterdoppeln aus mittelfingermono zu klippgriff

#1stGo

Fühlt sich einfach subjektiv viel schwerer als alle anderen 7a an.

an letzter expresse rausgekippt

Started via "DFVKMM" because of general confusion about the lines. It also seems like there is an extension of "DFVKMM" which crosses over this route here and goes up the narrow pillar to the left of "DIMGH". Anyway, to the route: There's a nasty long fixed sling in one of the bolts, which is ugly, but more or less necessary because the runout might be grounder potential (it's relatively juggy there, but not too easy …). The holds are relatively sharp and most of them seem to point in the wrong direction. Quite burly, less elegant than its right neighbour.

Interesting route, relatively elegant opposed to its appearance. Small holds up to the big sidepull flake after the third bolt, then a small runout on deep jugs to the next one. The top section was wet but manageable due to big holds.

Os

mit Hänger

Os

RP

Continuing mixing the routes because of wet stone.

I think we used the first three bolts of Lea's Projekt and then traversed into the 4th bolt of this one. 4th and 5th quickdraw were extended and I was really happy about that, otherwise it would have been too scary for me, quite some distance. Basically dogged from quickdraw to quickdraw then

The last part is not steep anymore, but was quite wet, so it was a bit more tricky today, but manageable.

Schöne Route aber die wegfindung war nicht ganz offensichtlich

Die Verendung? Ne, im 2. Go dann doch nicht so wild.

Schöne züge über den bauch

Wahnsinns-Ausdauer-Tour: 30m lang, luftige Hakenabstände, knifflige Crux auf der Platte & am Ende nochmal ein Rausschmeißer im Überhang. Fordert Kopf, Technik & Unterarme zugleich. Im letzten Versuch des Tages mit fränkischer Unterstützung & Publikum war es dann endlich so weit

Not enough left in the tank at the end of the day!

trickreiche Lochkletterei

Struggles on all the pockets. Think this climb was the start of sore fingers