A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Stefan Löw
Christoph Stahr
Luca Pareti
Antonio De Grazia
tichacek
Mr.Orange
Christoph Rauch
Lukas
Jirik
Kuraima
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Siracusa
751 in Area
-
1.1.
Cannicattini Bagni 479 routes in Sector
- 1.1.1. Jungle Book 8 routes in Area
- 1.1.2. Fuchsberger 31 routes in Crag
- 1.1.3. Glashaus 8 routes in Sector
- 1.1.4. Schwarzenegger 17 routes in Sector
- 1.1.5. Powerbank 10 routes in Sector
- 1.1.6. The Bridge 12 routes in Area
- 1.1.7. Cafe Med 35 routes in Sector
-
1.1.8.
Solarium 7 routes in Area
- 1.1.8.1. Solarium 0 routes in Area
- 1.1.9. Rammstein 20 routes in Sector
- 1.1.10. Letziland 5 routes in Sector
- 1.1.11. Graceland 21 routes in Area
- 1.1.12. Workaholic 6 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.13. Lost Places 25 routes in Area
- 1.1.14. Terminal I 15 routes in Area
- 1.1.15. Terminal II 11 routes in Area
- 1.1.16. Cavadonna 64 routes in Crag
- 1.1.17. Paradox Wall 8 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.18. Pisciotta 8 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.19. Contralfano 32 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.20. Lucertola 20 routes in Area
- 1.1.21. Nome e Cognome 56 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.22. Antro dell'Eco 31 routes in Crag
- 1.1.23. Arance rosse 0 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.24. Cugno Lupo 29 routes in Cliff
-
1.2.
Bunker 13 routes in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Sector Bunker 7 routes in Sector
- 1.2.2. N' Catalina 6 routes in Sector
- 1.3. Grotta Dei Pipistrelli 22 routes in Area
- 1.4. Brucoli Canyon 12 routes in Crag
- 1.5. Arena 11 routes in Area
-
1.6.
Bellavista 9 routes in Area
- 1.6.1. Belvedere 9 routes in Sector
- 1.7. La Pagoda 17 routes in Area
- 1.8. Servolare 64 routes in Crag
- 1.9. Sant Andrea 42 routes in Area
-
1.10.
Sortino 11 routes in Area
- 1.10.1. Settore Inferiore 4 routes in Sector
- 1.10.2. Settore Superiore 7 routes in Sector
- 1.11. Metamorfosi 11 routes in Area
- 1.12. Gole della Stretta / Gole Stretta 23 routes in Crag
- 1.13. Curvone 37 routes in Crag
-
1.14.
Siracusa 0 routes in Area
- 1.14.1. Tonnara 0 routes in Area
-
1.1.
Cannicattini Bagni 479 routes in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Siracusa
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.092090, 15.068819
Resumen
Hidden gem in the south-east of Sicily, offering hard sport climbing in the many canyons around Siracusa. Canicattini Bagni is the most popular and quickly developing area here.
descripción
Siracusa topo information is best found in the fifth version of La Roccia di Sole which was published in 2022 and covers the whole Sicily including Siracusa.
1.1. Cannicattini Bagni
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.037932, 15.101275
descripción
Most climbers only know about San Vito in Sicily, but the community around Canicattini Bagni is working on changing that. This area is full of canyons with potential, and the bolters are constantly developing new routes and sectors. We are very lucky they are very active on this website too - Stefan Löw and Christoph Stahr.
apart from theCrag, topo information is best found in the fifth version of La Roccia di Sole which was published in 2022 and covers the whole Sicily including Canicattini Bagni.
1.1.1. Jungle Book
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.042167, 15.075264
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mowgli | 7a | 18m | |||
2 | Shere Khan | 7b | 18m | |||
3 | Baloo | 7a+ | 18m | |||
4 | Bagheera | 6c | 18m | |||
5 | Hathi | 6c | 18m | |||
6 | Akela | 6c | 18m | |||
7 | King Lui | 6b+ | 18m | |||
8 | Rikki-Tikki-Tavi | 6b | 18m |
1.1.2. Fuchsberger
- Summary:
-
31 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 37.040069, 15.074747
descripción
DE: Im Trockental noch 200 m weiter gelangt man zum "Dschungelbuch" / "Jungle Book" -- eine schattige Wand mit ca. 8 Routen von 6b-7b.
EN: If you continue for another 200 m in the dry valley, you'll reach "Jungle Book", a shaded wall with around 8 routes of difficulty 6b-7b
Acceso
DE: Wie Sektor "Glashaus". Dann taleinwärts auf Pfadspur in das Trockental. In ihm ca. 300 m talaufwärts zur sichtbaren Ostwand. Über Fixseil zu den Einstiegen.
EN: Like for "Glashaus". Continue up the valley into the dry valley. Go 300 m upwards to the visible east face. Use the fixed rope to gain access to the routes.
1.1.3. Glashaus
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.038300, 15.074396
descripción
DE: Sinter nach Regen nass. Ein schönes Plätzchen für die Abendsonne.
EN: Tufas stay wet after rain. Nice place to enjoy the evening sunshine.
Acceso
DE: Wie "Powerbank". Im Tal weiter und in das rechte Tal ca. 100 m auf Pfad zur sichtbaren Wand. Über Vorbau (5b, 5 Haken) zu Band.
EN: Like for sector "Powerbank". Continue in the valley and enter the valley to the right for approx. 100 m. You can reach the main ledge by climbing the access route (5b, 5 bolts).
Descenso
DE: Abseilen vom Band
EN: Rap from the ledge
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Tanti auguri Giusi
PA: Stefan Löw PAL: Stefan Löw, Mayo 2018 | 6b | 25m | |||
2 |
★★ Unnamed
PAL: Massimo, Mayo 2018 | 6c | 25m | |||
3 |
Street Climber
PAL: C. Leube, Nov 2018 | 7b | ||||
4 |
Turnaround
PAL: C. Leube, Nov 2018 | 7b+ | ||||
5 |
★★★ Out of Control
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mayo 2018 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
6 |
★★★ Total Control
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mayo 2018 | 6c+ | 30m | |||
7 |
★★★ Wonderland
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mayo 2018 | 7a | 30m | |||
8 |
★★ Posto
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mayo 2018 | 6b+ | 30m |
1.1.4. Schwarzenegger
- Summary:
-
17 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.038606, 15.073800
descripción
DE: Sehr griffiges Gelände. Insbesondere die Route "Terminator" könnte mal ein Klassiker werden.
EN: Very grippy rock. "Terminator" especially could be a future classic.
Acceso
DE (English below):
Nicht versuchen, der schmalen Strasse zu folgen, die nahe an den Sektor führt -- sie ist sehr steinig und schlecht fahrbar.
Zustieg wie für "Powerbank". Im Tal gerade weiter und nach 100 m links halten und das von rechts kommende Bachbeet überqueren. Über Steinmänner auf Pfad zuerst gerade dann rechts aufwärts zu Terrasse mit Blechfass und Zisterne. Auf der Terrasse (nördlich) 100 m queren. Links oberhalb zur sichtbaren Wand. Befindet sich direkt gegenüber vom "Glashaus".
EN:
Don't try to follow the small route to park close to the sector, it is very small and full of stones, very hard to drive through even with small car.
Approach like for "Powerbank". Continue straight in the valley, then keep left after 100 m and cross the dry riverbed that comes in from the right. Follow the path marked by cairns, first straight and then to the right, up towards a terrace with a barrel and a cistern. Traverse 100 m to the north once on the terrace. The wall will be visible overhead to the left. This sector is located straight across from "Glashaus".
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Schwarzenegger
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6b | 23m | |||
2 |
★★★ Terminator
PAL: Stefan Löw PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6c | 23m | |||
3 |
★★★ Conan
PAL: Stefan Löw PA: Stefan Löw | 7a+ | 23m | |||
4 |
★★ Superballs
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 7a | 23m | |||
5 |
★★★ Lynx
PA: C. Neudert, Abr 2021 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 | 6c | 23m | |||
6 |
★★ Running Man
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6c | 23m | |||
7 |
★★ Fucking Master of Frankenjura
Equip: Luigi, Jun 2018 | 6b+ | 23m | |||
8 |
★★ Schädelspränger
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6c | 23m | |||
9 |
★★ Bibermobil
PAL: 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6b | 23m | |||
10 |
★★ Brutta sorpresa
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6c+ | 23m | |||
11 |
★★ Hans
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Nov 2018 | 6a | 23m, 6 | |||
12 |
★★★ Frankenjura
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6b+ | 23m | |||
13 |
★★★ Tip Top
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2018 | 6c | 23m | |||
14 |
★★ Brown Sugar
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2019 PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 7a | 23m | |||
15 |
★★★ Janapparat
PA: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 | 7a | 23m, 11 | |||
16 |
★★ Toughes Madl
Extension of Madl PA: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
17 |
★★ Madl
Own belay station, Toughes Madl turns right at the last bold. PA: S. Klimesch, Abr 2021 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 | 5b+ | 15m, 6 |
1.1.5. Powerbank
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.037000, 15.075074
Acceso
Von Canicattini Bagni Richtung Floridia. Über Talbrücke und dann nach 100 rechts bei Zufahrtsstraße (Wertstoffhof,Sportplatz) parken. In westlicher Richtung zur alten Straße über Steinmauer(ca 100 m). Auf dieser in das Tal. In der letzten Kehre im Tal ca 30 gerade aus, dann rechts aufwärts über Stufen zur sichtbaren Wand.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Ab in's Med
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 7b | 30m | |||
2 |
★★ Nero d'Avola
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 6b+ | 30m | |||
3 |
★★ Rosa e Pino
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
4 |
★★ Powerbank
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 7a | 30m | |||
5 |
★★ Bucomania
PA: Stefan Löw, 2017 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2017 | 6c | 30m | |||
6 |
★★ Radio Lukas
PA: Stefan Löw, 2017 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2017 | 6b+ | 30m | |||
7 |
★★★ Radio Virgin
PA: Stefan Löw, 2017 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2017 | 6b | 30m | |||
8 |
★★★ Fontana di Vita
PA: Stefan Löw, 2017 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2017 | 6c+ | 30m | |||
9 |
★★ 3 con Crauti
PA: Stefan Löw, 2017 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2017 | 6a | 30m | |||
10 |
★★ Today Is Paradise
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 6a+ | 30m |
1.1.6. The Bridge
- Summary:
-
12 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.033193, 15.078235
Acceso
Auf der alten Straße in der letzten Kehre an den Felsen zur Brücke hinunter. Durch sie und dann zur sichtberen Wand aufwärts. Leider vermüllter Brückenbereich.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Bologna
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 5c | 28m | |||
2 |
Late but great
PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2024 | 6c | 27m | |||
3 |
Powerbridge
PAL: C.Leube, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 7b | 25m | |||
4 | Lascia mi fare | 7a | 28m | |||
5 |
★★★ Superspreader
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 7a | 28m | |||
6 |
★★★ Under the bridge
Leicht überhändende Wandkletterei PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 7a | 28m | |||
7 |
★★★ Rimanere piu a lungo
Schöne Felsstrukturen PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 7a | 28m | |||
8 | N.NN | 28m | ||||
9 | N.N | 7c+ | 26m | |||
10 | N.N | 7b | 25m | |||
11 | N.N | 7b | 28m | |||
12 |
Submarine
Start : Von Baum am rechten Höhlenrand. PAL: M.Flaccamento, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2021 | 7b | 28m |
1.1.7. Cafe Med
- Summary:
-
35 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.030103, 15.082920
descripción
3 Sektoren mit einigen schönen Routen im 6a/b Bereich. Ca 26 Routen. einige noch ohne Namen und Projektstatus
Acceso
(37.02693, 15.07581)
Park in Via Pietro Pernice in Canicattini Bagni
At the end of the road (corner) take the right road and follow a small path heading down the valley (follow the red points spayed at the walls). After 10 min you will arrive at the sector Cafe Med (37.028758, 15.109879).
Rammstein is just 5 min further down the path you. (37.03054, 15.08347)
Both crags were established 2022 and offers nearly 50 routes between 5c and 7c in best rock quality.
After a good climbing day enjoy a cold beer in the real Cafe Med (Via Vittorio Emanuele III 575) (37.02691, 15.07421)
Historia
Alle Routen von Christian Leube, Christoph Stahr und Stefan Löw
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
La scabbia
PA: C. Leube, 2022 | 7a+ | 18m | |||
2 |
La rogna
PA: C. Leube, Nov 2022 | 7b | 13m | |||
3 |
★★ Gulag
Schöne senkrechte Wandkletterei mit der Crux ziemlich weit oben. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6c | 25m | |||
4 |
★★★ Zeit zu gehn
Gleicher Umlenkhaken wie 'Schönste Zeit' PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6b | 25m | |||
5 |
★★★ Schönste Zeit
Advertencia Roca: Loose rock Gut gesicherter Warm up. Equip: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6a | 25m | |||
6 |
★★★ La famiglia
Interessante Kante mit vielseitiger Crux oben raus. PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
7 |
★★★ Luna piena
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6c+ | 25m | |||
8 |
★★★ Petal to the Metal
PA: Christoph Stahr, Oct 2022 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
9 |
Dire Wolf
Equip: C. Leube, Oct 2022 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
10 |
★★★ Dub it up
PA: C. Leube, Oct 2022 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★★ Sanque, sudore e lacrime
PA: C. Leube, Oct 2022 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
12 |
Frankenfoot
Equip: C. Leube, Oct 2022 | 7a | 25m | |||
13 |
★★★ Waidmanns Heil
Schöne Kannte. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 7a | 27m | |||
14 |
★★ Disco 3er
PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2022 | 5c | 25m | |||
15 |
Cabbage face
PA: C. Leube, 2022 | 6b | 25m | |||
16 |
★★★ Pinos pub
PAL: 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
17 |
Eye of the Tiger
Equip: C. Leube, Nov 2022 | 6b | 23m | |||
18 |
★★ Lawinenspalte
PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2022 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
19 |
★★★ Zick Zack
Harte Einzelstelle vom Band weg PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6c | 25m | |||
20 |
Despacito
PA: C. Leube, 2022 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
21 |
Babylon rule
PA: C.Leube, 2022 Equip: C. Leube, Nov 2022 | 8a | 23m | |||
22 |
Peri peri
Going out left it is 7c, going straight 7a Equip: C. Leube, Oct 2022 | 7a | 23m | |||
23 |
Malocchio
Equip: C. Leube, Nov 2023 | 20m | ||||
24 |
Whole lotta love
PA: C. Leube, 2022 | 20m | ||||
25 |
★★★ Hysteria
PA: C. Leube, 2022 | 7b | 20m | |||
26 |
★★★ Bella Figura
PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2022 | 7a+ | 20m | |||
27 |
★★★ Walk the Talk
PA: C. Leube Equip: Christoph Stahr | 7b+ | 17m | |||
28 | Armagedon | 20m | ||||
29 |
Too Bad to be Good
Equip: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2022 | 20m | ||||
30 |
★★ Halt mal
Equip: Christoph Stahr PA: Christoph Stahr | 6b+ | 20m | |||
31 |
★★★ Zazu
Equip: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2023 PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2023 | 5c | 16m | |||
32 |
Light on fire
PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2023 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2023 | 6b | 17m | |||
33 |
Rock & Roll
PA: Christoph Stahr, Mar 2024 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Mar 2024 | 6b | 18m | |||
34 |
Rolling Stone
PA: Mar 2024 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Mar 2024 | 5a | 14m | |||
35 |
Mellow
PA: Mel Röthlein, Mar 2024 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Mar 2024 | 4b | 16m |
1.1.8. Solarium
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.030728, 15.083136
Resumen
Vorwiegend steile Wandkletterei
Acceso
Vom Sektor Rammstein 5 min talaufwärts zur südseitigen sichtbaren Wand.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Mess it up !
PA: Stefan Löw, 20 Mar | 6a+ | 18m | |||
2 |
★★★ Hot love
PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2023 | 6a | 25m | |||
3 |
★★★ Peace Train
PA: Stefan Löw | 6b | 25m | |||
4 |
Il forno
Equip: Toni Löw, Nov 2023 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
5 |
★★★ BBC
Equip: Toni Löw, Nov 2023 | 6c | 25m | |||
6 |
★★★ Posto al sole
PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2023 | 7b | 23m | |||
7 |
★★★ Why not
PA: Andi Bliestle, Mar 2024 Equip: Andi Bliestle, Mar 2024 | 7b | 18m |
1.1.8.1. Solarium
1.1.9. Rammstein
- Summary:
-
20 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.030434, 15.083619
descripción
Durchwegs gut gesicherter Sektor mit Klebehaken und Spits. Klettereien an meist guten Strukturen mit athletischem Carakter. 70 Meterseil von Vorteil. Wandfuss kinderfreundlich. Ein weiterer absolut ruhig und sehr sonniger Sektor in der Cava Bagni. Die Routen sind von links nach rechts gelistet und teilweise angeschrieben.
Acceso
(37.02693, 15.07581)
Park in Via Pietro Pernice in Canicattini Bagni
At the end of the road (corner) take the right road and follow a small path heading down the valley (follow the red points spayed at the walls). After 10 min you will arrive at the sector Cafe Med (37.028758, 15.109879).
Rammstein is just 5 min further down the path you. (37.03054, 15.08347)
Both crags were established 2022 and offers nearly 50 routes between 5c and 7c in best rock quality.
After a good climbing day enjoy a cold beer in the real Cafe Med (Via Vittorio Emanuele III 575) (37.02691, 15.07421)
Historia
Im Frühjahr und Herbst 2022 komplett durch Stefan Löw und Christian Leube eingerichteter Sektor.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Sprinter
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6b+ | 35m | |||
2 |
★★★ No gelati
Ausdauer mit interessanter Crux. Oben raus deutlich leichter. PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2023 | 7a | 30m | |||
3 |
Bloodshoteyes
PA: C. Leube Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
4 |
Volare
Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
5 |
★★★ Cordula Grün
Stark überhängende Kletterei an großen Griffen. PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6c+ | 28m | |||
6 |
Cui bono?
Equip: C. Leube Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7a | 25m | |||
7 |
Laibach copy
Equip: Christian Leube | 7b | 22m | |||
8 |
Krautrock
Equip: C. Leube Equip: Christian Leube | 7a+ | 25m | |||
9 |
★★ Links 2 3 4
Vorsicht auf Bienen (Stand H '22) PAL: 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 7a | 25m | |||
10 |
Sig et nom
Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7b | 25m | |||
11 |
★★★ Ring, Gringo
Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 PA: 2023 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
12 |
★★★ Fenomenale
Name ist Programm. Schlüsselstelle = gewusst wie. Danach ist es noch nicht vorbei. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
13 |
★★★ Manu Manedda
PA: C. Leube Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7b | 30m | |||
14 |
★★★ Holy cannoli
Gewltiger Sinter. Thailand lässt grüssen PA: C. Leube Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7b | 30m | |||
15 |
★★ Gravit's Rainbow
No handrest wo es am Steilsten ist. PA: C. Leube, 2022 Equip: Christian Leube, 2022 | 7a | 25m | |||
16 |
★★★ Hitzeschlacht
Schöne athletische Züge über das Dach. PAL: Stefan Löw PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 7a | 25m | |||
17 |
★★ Feuer frei
Gemeinsamer Einstieg wie Bäng Bäng. Am 2ten Haken links weg. PAL: Stefan Löw PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6c | 25m | |||
18 |
★★★ Bäng Bäng
Ziemlich steiles Teil mit guten Griffen. Crux vor Band. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
19 |
★★ Pumello
PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6b | 18m | |||
20 |
★★ Libera come enoi
Gleicher Umlenker wie Pumello. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 6a | 18m |
1.1.10. Letziland
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.029543, 15.086606
descripción
One of a few "almost" shady sectors in Canicattini. Sun comes in around 5 pm. Routes up to 30m. Much more potential!! Bring your drill and garden scissors!!
Acceso
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Kalotzi
PA: Astrid L. | 5c+ | 25m, 12 | |||
2 |
★★ Bosnia
Extension to Kalotzi with 6 extra Bolts. PA: Benedikt L., 12 Abr | 6c+ | 30m, 2, 6 | |||
3 |
★★★ Sabbatical is magical
PA: Benedikt L., 12 Abr | 6b+ | 30m, 15 | |||
4 |
Prince Benny
Open Project around 7c- 8a?? First Ascentionist is requested to keep the name Prince Benny in memory of my beloved Husky Mix Dog Benny. Thanks and rock on!! Equip: Benedikt L., 14 Mayo | 30m, 14 | ||||
5 |
★★★ Dynamo Letzi
PA: Benedikt L., 16 Mayo | 7a+ | 30m, 14 |
1.1.11. Graceland
- Summary:
-
21 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.030384, 15.088767
Resumen
Zustieg Wie Settore 'Rammstein'. Dann 15 Minuten im Bachbett talabwärts bis zur markanten Südwand.Alle Routen angeschrieben. Meist steiler Einstiegsüberhang an sandsteinähnlichen Strukturen.
descripción
Gemütliches schattiges Ambiente. Alle Haken Chemikal-Verbundhaken.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Chri
Plattenkletterei . Name angeschrieben. Gedenkweg an Christoph Schweiger. Died in an accident in Arco. PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2023 | 6a | 18m | |||
2 |
Fettes Brot
Harter Einstieg, oben raus genial überhängend aber gute Griffe und nochmal schwer zur Umlenkung. Exen gut verlängern. PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2023 | 7b | 28m | |||
3 |
Vecchio osso
Stark überhängender Einstieg. Anhaltend schwer bis zur Umlenkung. 15 Quickdraws. PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2023 | 7a | 33m | |||
4 |
★★★ Macello
Stark überhängender Einstieg mit 2 harten Einzelstellen. 15 Quickdraws. PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2023 | 7a | 33m | |||
5 |
Fiasco
Ziemlich harter Einstieg. PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2023 | 7b | 33m | |||
6 |
★★★ Grenzland
PA: Stefan Löw, 10 Abr | 7a+ | 30m | |||
7 |
Time Waits For No One
PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2024 | 7a | 26m | |||
8 |
★★★ Ava Maria
PA: Toni Löw, 9 Abr | 7a+ | ||||
9 |
★★ Dancing in the dark
PA: Abr 2024 Equip: Stefan Löw, 2 Abr | 7a | 14m | |||
10 |
★★★ Campo di Forza
Very steep without restpoints. Equip: Stefan Löw, 2 Abr | 7b | 13m | |||
11 |
★★★ Rockpalast
Very steep. PA: Stefan Löw, 2 Abr | 7a | 12m | |||
12 |
Path to exile
PA: Stefan Löw, Nov 2023 | 7b | 25m | |||
13 |
★★★ Glory days
Crux im oberen Bereich. Längenzug. Für Kleine kann es schwer werden. 15 Exen. Ggf lange Schlingen oder gut verlängern. Interessanter Aufrichter am markanten Loch !! PA: Stefan Löw, Abr 2023 | 7b | 33m | |||
14 |
★★★ Rodeo
Sinterkletterei an markanter Sinterfahne Equip: Stefan Löw, Nov 2023 | 7b | 25m | |||
15 |
★★★ The '59' sound
PA: Stefan Löw | 6c | 25m | |||
16 |
★★★ Evas Burger
Kräftiger Einstieg.Oben raus Crux. PAL: Oct 2023 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2023 | 6c | 25m, 10 | |||
17 |
★★ I'm waiting
PA: Stefan Löw | 6b+ | 25m | |||
18 |
★★ Al mare
PAL: Stefan Löw, Oct 2023 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2023 | 6a | 28m, 10 | |||
19 |
★★ Stay Lucky
Im rechten Wandteil an Fixseil zum Einstieg.Senkrechte Wandkletterei.Name angeschrieben PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2023 | 6c | 30m, 10 | |||
20 |
★★ Bussi Baby
Haken gut verlängern. PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2023 | 6c | 32m, 12 | |||
21 |
★★ Knapper Sieg
Ziemlich unhomogene Crux mit scharfem Einfingerloch. PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2023 | 6c | 25m, 12 |
1.1.12. Workaholic
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 37.029096, 15.104033
descripción
Eine weitere excellente Wand bei Canicattinii Bagni.
Acceso
Ca 2 km vor Canicattinii- von Syracusa kommend- befindet sich rechterhand eine kleine Straße welche wieder nach 100 m auf die Hauptstraße trifft. Hier nach 50 m parken.Rechts über kleine Steinmauer (3 rote Punkte)und ca 500-800 m weglos über die Hochfläche zur 'Cavadonaschlucht'.(100 m vorher links an einer (Steinmauer 3 rote Punkte) mit Weg/Pfad orientieren) Dieser Weg führt direkt bequem in die Schlucht. In der Schlucht links (talaufwärts)- rote Punkte- und nach ca 100 rechts hoch zur sichtbaren Wand. Alle Routen mit Klebehaken.Namen angeschrieben.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Coole Hunde
PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 |
★★ Marlene
PA: Toni Löw, 2019 PAL: Toni Löw, 2019 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
3 |
★★★ Friends
PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 6c | 30m | |||
4 |
★★★ Frankenpower
PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 7b+ | 30m | |||
5 |
★★★ Sternenstaub
PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
6 |
★★★ Hey Older !!!
PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 6c | 40m |
1.1.13. Lost Places
- Summary:
-
25 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.029191, 15.110024
Resumen
Zustieg wie zum Sektor Workaholic.Im Talgrund/Bachbett dann aber ca 800 m talabwärts.Die Südwand ist gut sichtbar. Markierung = 2 rote Punkte.
descripción
Lange Routen an schönen Strukturen. 70 m Seil !!!! Absicherung: geklebte Haken / Expansionshaken
Acceso
Climb over the wall opposite to the "climbing shoe" tree. Follow the path until you reach "The Kiosk" (37.027563, 15.105364).
From here you can already see Workaholic (on the left side) and Lost Places (on the right side).
Walk down to the valley via the old path. Down in the valley walk to the crag. -Please close all gates-
In the beginning stay on the left of the river bed across the meadows and later walk along the river bed until point (37.028758, 15.109879). From here walk up to the crag.
Enjoy your climbing day.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Die Zeit vergeht
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 6c | 35m | |||||
2 |
★★★ La gatta pigra
PA: Christoph Stahr, 2020 Equip: Christoph Stahr, 2020 | 6c | 35m | |||||
3 |
★★★ The show must go on
PA: Carmelo Ferlito, Abr 2021 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Abr 2021 | 7a+ | 35m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Kiss the Bizeps
Crux am letzten Haken PAL: Massimo Flaccamento, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 7a+ | 37m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Next time
Equip: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2020 PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2020 | 7a | 35m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Maja+Nicolas
PAL: 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Viaggio Lungo
Equip: Christoph Stahr, 2020 PA: Christoph Stahr, 2020 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Warm up
PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6a | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★★ O lekomio
Vorsicht Bienennest PA: Stefan Löw PA: 2021 | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
10 |
★★★ sicilianità
PA: C.Leube, 2020 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Arschlecken 350
PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 7a | 35m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Sinnlos
Oben raus deutlich leichter PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
13 |
★★★ No man's land
PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6c | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Die Glatze
Boulderlastige Crux Equip: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 7b | 25m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Desaster
Sehr scharfe Griffe. Nach dem 5. Haken leichter PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6b | 30m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Vampir
Megaroute an Sintern. Crux am letzten Haken. PA: Stefan Löw PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Culla fino alla tomba
Ewig langes Teil mit 2 schweren Passagen. PA: C.Leube, 2020 | 7b+ | 35m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Dauerwelle
21 Runners.Hängt 8 m über. Schwere Crux am 6.Haken. (Lieben oder hassen) PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 7b | 37m | |||||
19 |
★★★ menagerie
Startet links über den Überhang am Höhleneingang. In Wandmitte gerade hinauf. Rechter Ausstieg noch Projekt.Viele lange Exen. PA: C.Leube, 2020 | 7b+ | 40m | |||||
20 |
★★★ pantlegs
Direkt über das Dach am Höhlenausgang PA: C.Leube, 2020 | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Chaos
Steiler Einstieg und schöne Strukturen PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6c | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★ Hohl
Crux eventuell ganz oben in der Platte. PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 7a | 30m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Masterpiece
Sehr steil und anhaltend bis zur Umlenkung. PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 7a | 35m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Ton, Steine, Scherben
Die rechteste Tour. Oben direkt über das Dach. PA: Stefan Löw, 2020 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2020 | 6b+ | 28m | |||||
25 | NN | 7c | ||||||
|
1.1.14. Terminal I
- Summary:
-
15 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.030774, 15.117227
Acceso
Die SP74 von Canicattini Bagni Richtung Floridia. Am höchsten Punkt (ca 3 km nach Ortsende) rechts die 2te asphaltierte Strasse nehmen = SR15 Strada Diego. Auf ihr ca 2 km bis zu einer 90 Grad Kurve. Kurz vorher parken. (37.03492, 15.11775) Direkt in der Kurve rechts bei Leitplanke zu Weg welcher abwärts nach 50 m zu einem alten Gebäude (Wasserresoir = sehenswert) führt. Dort einer Steinmauer in südlicher!! Richtung folgen. Nach ca 20 m links halten (Markanter alter Karubiabaum) Dann links (südöstlich) haltend bis etwa nach 20 weiteren Metern der Zustieg mit roter Farbe markiert wurde. Anhaltspunkt: leichter Hang mit niedrigem Gebüsch. Den 'Weg' in südöstlicher Richtung folgen (Steinmauer links)bis eine Schlucht sichtbar wird.Hier leicht bergab bis zur Abbruchkante. Am östlichen Bereich
zwischen Felsblöcken (Rote Markierungen) absteigen/abklettern.(Kurze Felsstufe dazwischen,mit geländegängigem Hund machbar:-) Am Wandfuss in südwestlicher Richtung zur sichtbaren Wand.
(37.03055, 15.11736)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ RUNWAY
PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2021 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2021 | 6a+ | 24m | |||
2 |
★★ Start Engine
PA: Christoph Stahr, Mar 2022 Equip: Christoph Stahr, Mar 2022 | 6a | 24m | |||
3 |
★★★ Check in
Schöne steile Wandkletterei. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 6b+ | 24m | |||
4 |
★★★ Gate 1
Schöne Ausdauerkletterei PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 6c | 24m | |||
5 |
★★★ Priority Boarding
PA: Christian Leube, Oct 2021 | 7b | 24m | |||
6 |
★★★ STAHR FIGHTER
Equip: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2021 PA: M.Flaccavento, Nov 2021 | 7b+ | 24m | |||
7 |
★★★ A-ha
Nach der Querung Haken mit langer Schlinge verlängern. Gut gesicherte Warmuptour. | 6b | 30m | |||
8 |
★★★ Last Call
PA: Christoph Stahr, Nov 2021 | 7a+ | 24m | |||
9 |
★★★ Black Box
Ausdauer mit griffiger Schuppe und interessantem Finish. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 7a | 24m | |||
10 |
★★★ Fasten your seatbelt
Crux über das Dach. Eigentlich nur ein Zug schwer. Der Rest Genuss an schönen Strukturen. PAL: 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Oct 2021 | 7a | 24m | |||
11 |
★★★ Buisness class
Schöne Strukturen PAL: Stefan Löw, 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, 2021 | 6b | 26m | |||
12 |
★★★ Jetlag
PA: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 | 6b | 24m | |||
13 |
★★★ Sky Walk
PA: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
14 |
★★★ 1st Class
PA: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 | 6b+ | 24m | |||
15 |
★★★ StopOver
PA: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 | 7a+ | 27m |
1.1.15. Terminal II
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.031225, 15.116666
Acceso
Like Terminal I, just behind the big cave.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Lascia la scia
PA: Christian Leube, Nov 2021 Equip: Christian Leube, Nov 2021 | 7b+ | 24m | |||
2 |
★★★ Tornado
PAL: Stefan Löw, 2022 PA: Stefan Löw, 2022 | 7b | 24m | |||
3 |
★★★ Phantom
Equip: Stefan Löw, Nov 2021 PA: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 | 7a | 24m | |||
4 |
★★★ Per Te
PA: Olaf Zeddies, Nov 2021 Equip: Olaf Zeddies, Nov 2021 | 7a | 24m | |||
5 |
★★★ Per Me
Equip: Olaf Zeddies, Nov 2021 PA: Olaf Zeddies, Mar 2022 | 7b | 24m | |||
6 |
★★★ Fuck the System
PA: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 PAL: Stefan Löw, Mar 2022 | 6c+ | 24m | |||
7 |
★★★ Dreamliner
A dream line which requires Power Endurance PA: Christoph Stahr Equip: Christoph Stahr | 7a+ | 18m | |||
8 |
★★★ Abflug
Equip: Uli Stark, 21 Mar 2022 PA: Uli Stark, 24 Mar 2022 | 6b+ | 22m | |||
9 |
★★★ Take Off
PA: Christoph Stahr Equip: Christoph Stahr | 6a | 24m | |||
10 |
★★★ Catch a Flight
Nice line with tricky moves at the last bold to get a 2 finger undercling for the left hand and then dyno with right hand to a jug - if you miss you will Catch a Flight ;o) PA: Christoph Stahr Equip: Christoph Stahr | 7a+ | 24m | |||
11 | ★★★ Route 66 | 7a | 24m |
1.1.16. Cavadonna
- Summary:
-
64 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 37.027845, 15.131087
Resumen
Somewhat older crag, bolted somewhere in 2002 with interesting routes in various styles.
descripción
An interesting crag with varying route styles, but getting there isn't really easy since it doesn't seem like it gets many visitors, despite quite a number of routes, so the path isn't well marked of visible at times.
Most of the crag is south facing with sun the whole day. The cave is mostly west facing (gets the sun at around 11 AM), with a smaller part being east facing (is in the sun until about 1 PM). The cave has a big roof, sheltering from the rain and wind, and offers interesting tufa climbing, but a lot of the fixed quick draws are in (really) bad shape (use your own quick draws instead). Some of the bolts are also quite/really rusty and would need to be replaced.
Acceso
Park the car on the side of the road (37.0350854, 15.1274567) and walk to the gate (5 minutes), or drive to the gate (the gravel road is quiet rough at the start but gets better) (
37.0318035, 15.1289510). Go over the gate and continue down the gravel road and keep left at the fork. A few metres after the first fork turn right and continue on until you reach a 90 degrees left turn. There you can go down to the field (37.0292204, 15.1293721) and cross it until you reach the other side (no dedicated path). Keep right until you find a path that almost immediately turns left and down the gully (37.0281692, 15.1291787). Continue down the gully until you reach the start of the cliff. Continue walking under the cliff (to the east) until you reach the part of the wall you want to climb at. It takes about 5 more minutes to get from the bottom of the gully to the cave part of the crag (37.0278293, 15.1320077). The path is quite overgrown with vegetation.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Road kill | 7a | 25m | |||
2 | Cadavere | 6b+ | 20m | |||
3 | Rigormortis | 7a | 25m | |||
4 | Carogna | 7a | 15m | |||
5 | Grateful dead | 7c | 28m | |||
6 | Loculo | 6b+ | 28m | |||
7 | ★ Fianco a Fianco | 7b | 25m | |||
8 | Catapultati | 6b+ | 28m | |||
9 | ★★ 110 E Lode | 6a | 30m | |||
10 | Veneto Di passione | 6a | 30m | |||
11 | ★★ Vento Di Passione | 6a+ | 20m | |||
12 | Spavento E Timore | 6c+ | 20m | |||
13 | ★ Risvegli | 6b | 20m | |||
14 | Chiedimi Scusa | 6c | 22m | |||
15 | Caveman | 25m | ||||
16 | Hermit | 25m | ||||
17 | Troglodyte | 7c | 22m | |||
18 | Nostalgia Canaglia | 6b+ | 33m | |||
19 | Breve E Noioso Viaggio | 6b | 30m | |||
20 | Esplode Il Divertimento | 6a+ | 25m | |||
21 | Explode il divertimento | 6a+ | 25m | |||
22 | Terapia | 6b+ | 25m | |||
23 | Giardiniere In Trance | 6b | 35m | |||
24 | Cessate Il Fuoco | 6c | 25m | |||
25 | Shakira | 7b | 28m | |||
26 | Le Storie Di Zamorana | 28m | ||||
27 | Santo racus | 7c+ | 22m | |||
28 | ★★★ Johnni l'astronauta | 7a+ | 30m | |||
29 | Jacky | 28m | ||||
30 | ★★ Jimmi | 6b+ | 30m | |||
31 | Cremeria | 6b+ | 20m | |||
32 |
★ Chocolate city
Second pitch of Cremeria | 7a | 10m | |||
33 |
★★ Mentalia disturbata
Very nice classical route with progressing difficulty. | 7b+ | 25m | |||
34 |
★★★ Perversi e delusi
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Very old fixed gear Full of mostly very bad fixed quickdraws and some very rusty bolts. Avoid or use your own quickdraws. Otherwise an excellent route. | 7c+ | 24m | |||
35 | ... e finalmente contenti | 20m | ||||
36 | Leprechaun | 7c+ | 30m | |||
37 | Killer Bee | 8a | 30m | |||
38 | Lochness Nessie | 8a+ | 32m | |||
39 | La spada di Damocle | 25m | ||||
40 | Shemale'n Da Hood | 30m | ||||
41 | Cruisin | 7c+ | 28m | |||
42 |
Traverso rubbino
From the Cruisin anchor to Bella senza anima anchor | 8a | 10m | |||
43 | ★★ Bella senza anima | 7c | 28m | |||
44 | Cigarettes & powerballs | 7c+ | 18m | |||
45 | Copperhead & Copperfield | 7c+ | 20m | |||
46 | Tirami giu | 7b+ | 28m | |||
47 | Ballo erotico | 7b+ | 30m | |||
48 | Non Solo Intimo | 7c+ | 28m | |||
49 |
Pinco Pallino
Bouldery start a bit higher up and then easy climbing to the top. | 7b | 28m | |||
50 | ★★ Frank Il Tabaccaio | 6c+ | 27m | |||
51 |
★★ Cliff new age
Boulder at the beginning then some endurance and easy finish. | 7a | 25m | |||
52 | Nelle Fauci Del Mostro | 6c | 6m | |||
53 | ★★ Bivio Jazzotto | 6a+ | 28m | |||
54 | ★ Il Natale Dei Dinosauri | 6a | 16m | |||
55 | ★★ Via Di Fuga | 6a+ | 27m | |||
56 | ★★ Mike L'apprendista | 6a | 25m | |||
57 |
Thanks for the good time
Use long wires or remove the first three bolts. PAL: Stefan Löw, 2019 PA: Stefan Löw, 2019 | 7a | 35m | |||
58 |
★★★ Long way home
Ganz links.Name angeschrieben. PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 6c/c+ | 35m | |||
59 |
★★ Pain
PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 6a | 35m | |||
60 |
★★★ Muskeltier
Lange Ausdauerroute. Oben raus excellente headwall. Vorsicht beim Ablassen! PA: Stefan Löw, 2018 PAL: Stefan Löw, 2018 | 7a+ | 35m | |||
61 | Ladri Di Movimenti | |||||
62 | Senza Nome | 7c+ | ||||
63 | Senza Nome 2 | 8a | ||||
64 | Space to e timore | 6c+ | 20m |
1.1.17. Paradox Wall
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 37.058405, 15.082503
Acceso
As per Controalfano. Paradox wall is the first overhanging cave you’ll encounter on the way.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Paradox wall | 7c | ||||
2 | Two incomes, but more divorces | 8a+ | ||||
3 | More politicians, more corruption | |||||
4 | Bigger houses, smaller families | 7c | ||||
5 | Degrees, but less sense | 6b+ | ||||
6 | Fast food, but slow digestion | 6c | ||||
7 | Steep profit, but shallow relationships | 6c+ | ||||
8 | More experts, but more problems | 7a |
1.1.18. Pisciotta
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 37.058206, 15.080821
Acceso
As per Controalfano. Pisciotta is the second cliff on the way.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Genesi | 5a | ||||
2 | Lingua | 6b | ||||
3 | Infinito | 7a | ||||
4 | Il guardiano | 7a+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Starman | 6b+ | ||||
6 | Cristalleria | 6c | ||||
7 | Livia the cat | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Mandrake | 7a+ |
1.1.19. Contralfano
- Summary:
-
32 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 37.058993, 15.078017
Acceso
From the carpark walk downhill following the dirt road passing a locked metal gate situated after a right turn. Keep walking following the road on a gentle downhill for 200m to coordinates (37.0601379, 15.0853064). Exit thee dirt road to the right crossing the stonewall and follow the track keeping the gorge to your left after 200m Paradox Wall sector is visible to the right, then Pisciotta sector and lastly Controalfano.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tutu | 5c | 20m | |||
2 |
★ Pisellino
Good climb on sharp rock. | 5c | ||||
3 |
★★ Fagiolino
A strenuous boulder at the start gives the grade then easier to the top. | 6a+ | ||||
4 |
★★★ Baby Godzilla
The perfect warm up at the grade. | 6b | ||||
5 |
Indecisione Fatale
Boulder at the start then easier. | 6c | ||||
6 |
Raptus
Overhanging-hard at the lip | 8a+ | 20m | |||
7 |
★★ Bolts from hell
Spectacular, exposed climb that follows for most of its difficulty a prominent crack. Starts with juggy bulge then easier till you get at the start of the evident thin crack. Follow it to the lip of the roof then right on a beautifully exposed corner that leads to the anchor. | 6c+ | ||||
8 |
★★★ Thunder Dome
Slick boulder at the start leads to overhang and rest in a hole, then crux moves on grey arete lead to chain(bit runout at the top but always safe). | 7b+ | ||||
9 |
★★★ Miss K Lorina
Very technical on the first half then juggy on overhangs the second half. A benchmark for the grade. | 6b+ | ||||
10 |
★★ Dribbling
Nice slabby climb on excellent rock. | 6c | ||||
11 |
★★ Ragusani D.O.P.
Nice climb that flows really well and host a variety of different moves. It requires some jamming technique at the top otherwise harder. | 6c+ | 20m | |||
12 |
★★ A volte è meglio non sapere
Excellent climb! One of the classic of the sector! boulder midway up, then endurance on technical bulges. | 7a | ||||
13 |
★ Save the wild cat
Slick and bouldery | 7b+ | ||||
14 |
★★ Il cannoniere
It’s the one with the big tufa! Nice and flowy. | 7b | ||||
15 |
★★ Carpe Diem
Boulder at the start and at the end. | 7a+ | ||||
16 |
Talento puro
Bouldery | 7c+ | ||||
17 |
★★ Con...fusione di mani
Very good climb leads to a heartbreaking final boulder. | 8a | ||||
18 |
Impact Factor
Overhanging on good holds then final crux. | 7c | ||||
19 |
Reggae Sound
Overhanging climb leads to a rest straddling the big tufa, chalk up and enjoy the end. | 7b+ | ||||
20 |
★★ Bella Monella
Starts a bit chossy but it gets better soon. As soon as the wall becomes blank the business starts! Pumpy. | 7b | ||||
21 |
Il povero idealista
Hard sequence on the first 7m on rotten rock then it gives way to a very nice 6c. | 7c | ||||
22 |
Travel Room
Short and powerful on a roof. | 7b | ||||
23 | Once was Naica | 7c | 10m | |||
24 |
Variante 4
Starts in common with Smooth Criminal the veers right after the fist steep part toward a final roof. | 7c | ||||
25 |
★★ Smooth criminal
Starts on overhanging terrain on good tufas then follows a couple of holes makes you believe it’s over..it isn’t. | 7a | ||||
26 |
★★★ Ghost rider
Similar to the previous one but with a technical boulder midway up then endurance till the anchor. | 7c | ||||
27 | ★★★ Addio pizzo | 6b+ | ||||
28 | ★ Far away so close | 6a | 20m | |||
29 |
Out of Mind
Crux on the bulge then slabby to the anchor. | 7b | ||||
30 |
Bestman
Thin is in! Two cruxes on small sharp holds. | 7c | 28m | |||
31 |
★ Amaro Mundi
Good climb on sharp rock. Keeps you thinking all the way. | 7a+ | ||||
32 |
Bricolage
A bit runout at the end | 6c+ |
1.1.20. Lucertola
- Summary:
-
20 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.066494, 15.084628
Acceso
Follow the road 200m and enter the olive grove on the left side. Follow the path until you reach "The Outlook" (37.06543, 15.08475).
From here you can already see the crag.
Walk down to the valley via the old path. Down in the valley walk to the crag. -Please close all gates-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Non Sottovalutatemi | 6b | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Route 666 | 7a+ | 35m | |||
3 | ★★★ Joint Venture | 7b+ | 35m | |||
4 | Space Cowboy | 7b+ | 35m | |||
5 | Aracnica | 7b | 35m | |||
6 | Kattivik | 6b+ | 35m | |||
7 | No Name | 5c | 20m | |||
8 | La Capa Gira | 7b+ | 25m | |||
9 | Amici Indecisi | 7b | 20m | |||
10 | Mi Piaccion Le Sbarbine | 7b+ | 25m | |||
11 | Slap Happy | 30m | ||||
12 | Project | 30m | ||||
13 | Project | 30m | ||||
14 | La Bella Ballerina | 7a | 25m | |||
15 | La Bella Ballerina EXT. | 7c | 35m | |||
16 | Mr. Mean | 8b+ | 30m | |||
17 | Finocchi Compiaciuti | 8a+ | 30m | |||
18 | No Name | 6c | 10m | |||
19 | Allippati | 7c+ | 25m | |||
20 | Panoramix | 7b+ | 25m |
1.1.21. Nome e Cognome
- Summary:
-
56 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 37.060179, 15.075623
descripción
This crag consists mostly of overhanging and athletic routes. Bolting is excellent on beefy glue-ins.
There are some easier routes (5th and 6th French grade) on the walls outside the caves.
The routes in the main cave are safe from rain.
Acceso
Park at the side of the road. Path starts at (37.0603, 15.0757) where you can walk direction of the last houses and then to the left down the cliff (37.060447, 15.07529).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Vecchio guerriero
PA: 2008 | 7c | 12m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Il cigno e il porco alato
PA: 2006 | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Iron man
PA: 2008 | 6c | 12m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Viva la vida
PA: 2008 | 7b | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Nome e cognome (L1)
PA: 2006 | 5a | 10m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Nome e cognome (L2)
PA: 2008 | 7c | 12m | |||||
7 | Il poeta | 8a | 12m | |||||
8 |
★★ I'm your Papy
PA: 2005 | 6b | 10m | |||||
9 |
★★ 10 e lode
PA: 2005 | 6b | 14m | |||||
10 |
Fase di stallo
PA: 2006 | 6c | 16m | |||||
11 |
In ogni atomo
PA: 2005 | 7a+ | 16m | |||||
12 |
★ Erademaggio
PA: 2008 | 8a | 18m | |||||
13 |
★★ Impronte
PA: 2008 | 7a+ | 16m | |||||
14 |
I miei sogni e i miei perché
PA: 2008 | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
15 |
Cuor di pirata
PA: 2008 | 7c+ | 28m | |||||
16 | ★★★ Nessun dolore | 6b | 14m | |||||
17 |
Quinto piano torre A
PA: 2008 | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
18 | ★ Il sale della vita | 7a | ||||||
19 | ★★ Per voi vorrei essere migliore | 7b+ | ||||||
20 |
Piccolo grande eroe
PA: 2007 | 7c | 25m | |||||
21 |
Buon compleanno Thai
PA: 2007 | 7b | 25m | |||||
22 |
Hurien
PA: 2007 | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
23 | ★★★ Minu | 7a | ||||||
24 |
★★ Quasi 30
PA: 2008 | 6a+ | 24m | |||||
25 |
★ Piccoli per sempre
PA: 2006 | 6b | 25m | |||||
26 |
★★★ La banda del calzino
PA: 2021 | 5b | 25m | |||||
27 |
★★ Panorama da urlo
PA: 2009 | 4c | 30m | |||||
28 |
Splendida giornata
PA: 2009 | 5a | 30m | |||||
29 |
★★ Per un pugno di magnesio
PA: 2009 | 4b | 14m | |||||
30 |
★★ Allucinazione e panico
PA: 2009 | 4b | 30m | |||||
31 |
Detto fatto
PA: 2009 | 6a+ | 22m | |||||
32 |
Aurelio Junior
PA: 2009 | 6c | 10m | |||||
33 |
Noi no
PA: 2009 | 6c | 12m | |||||
34 |
C'è chi dice no
PA: 2009 | 6c | 12m | |||||
35 |
L'architetto e L'ingegnere
PA: 2009 | 7c | 13m | |||||
36 |
Per niente stanco
PA: 2010 | 7a+ | 13m | |||||
37 |
Rollito Thai
PA: 2010 | 6b+ | 13m | |||||
38 |
Io no!
PA: 2021 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
39 |
Dena è grande
PA: 2009 | 6a+/b | 20m | |||||
40 |
★★ Saluto l'Inverno
PA: 2009 | 6a | 20m | |||||
41 |
★ L'allievo
PA: 2009 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
42 |
★★★ Leggero
PA: 2009 | 5a | 14m | |||||
43 |
★★ Per Tato
PA: 2009 | 5a | 12m | |||||
44 |
Leggenda
PA: 2010 | 7a | 22m | |||||
45 |
Fratelli per sempre
PA: 2010 | 6c | 12m | |||||
46 |
Sopra il mondo
PA: 2010 | 8m | ||||||
47 |
La rinascita del Thai
PA: 2010 | 10m | ||||||
48 |
Felice per sempre
PA: 2010 | 5c+ | 10m | |||||
49 |
La classe non è acqua
PA: 2010 | 10m | ||||||
50 |
Ogni lacrima è un segreto
PA: 2010 | 8m | ||||||
51 |
Un mercoledì da leoni
PA: 2010 | 6a+/b | 10m | |||||
52 |
★ Sentimento nuevo
PA: 2010 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
53 |
★★ Tommy
PA: 2009 | 6a | 20m | |||||
54 |
Avevamo un sogno
PA: 2010 | 6c | 20m | |||||
55 |
L'infinito in un passo
PA: 2010 | 8a | 18m | |||||
56 |
Signori si nasce
PA: 2010 | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
|
1.1.22. Antro dell'Eco
- Summary:
-
31 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 37.064016, 15.072346
Resumen
One of the newer crags in the Siracusa area
descripción
The crag is on the side of a canyon and is easily accessed following the approach recommendations. The bolts all seem to be in great shape some even fairly new looking. There are two alcoves to take cover in if you get caught out in the rain. One alcove has routes but unsure of the state of the straps quick linked in. Lastly, the crag has a great view.
Acceso
on the side of the road before the farm
(37.0616731, 15.0719403)
Go towards the farm and then turn North, following the wall of stones until you reach this point: (37.0640803, 15.0737786). Here you follow the walked path downhill and follow it by the rock until you reach the crag - (37.0641331, 15.0723472)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Istigazione alla follia | 6a | 30m | |||
2 |
★ Critiche dall'inutile
Var. to Istigazione; same first bolt the the right line | 5c+ | 30m | |||
3 | A giulia | 6a | 30m | |||
4 | Panza fobia | 6a+ | 24m | |||
5 | Moltobellamenta | 6a | 24m | |||
6 | L'Egrimio delirio | 5c | 26m | |||
7 | Glio egrimlins | 6b+ | 14m | |||
8 | Kira e Toto | 6b+ | 14m | |||
9 | ★★ The princess rock | 5c | 26m, 9 | |||
10 | ★★ The love is capper juice | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||
11 | ★★★ L'Egregio Bastaso | 6a+ | 25m | |||
12 | ★★ La roccia immacolata | 5b | 16m | |||
13 |
★ Flint
Fun route. Recommend extra gear at top if there are multiple climbers single chain connected to two bolts. | 5a | 16m, 6 | |||
14 | Likantropia | 6c | 22m | |||
15 | La vita non è un film | 6c | 26m | |||
16 |
NoName
PA: 2021 | 7a | 24m | |||
17 | La rossa ruggente | 6c+ | 24m | |||
18 | Tina | 6c | 16m | |||
19 | ★★ Qui non è Hollywood | 7a | 16m | |||
20 | ★★ Congiunzioni astrali | 6c | 18m | |||
21 | ★★★ L'infausto idillio | 6b | 18m | |||
22 |
Fratelli Karamazov
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Top crux dangerously bolted | 6a | 22m | |||
23 | ★★ Standing ovation | 7a+ | 22m | |||
24 | Baloo forever | 7b+ | 18m | |||
25 | ★★ Generazioni senza nome | 8a | 16m | |||
26 | La forza tranquilla | 7c | 18m | |||
27 | Munnu persu | 7c | 20m | |||
28 | Bella ciao | 7b | 18m | |||
29 | La luce dell'est | 6c | 20m | |||
30 | Gandalf il bianco | 7c | 18m | |||
31 | Fantasia al potere | 7c+ | 22m |
1.1.23. Arance rosse
1.1.24. Cugno Lupo
- Summary:
-
29 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 37.009866, 15.102902
descripción
One of the most attractive cliff around Canicattini Bagni if you climb between 7a and 8a. Fantastic solid Rock, long sustained routes, quite canyon. The perfect winter crag.
Acceso
when you reach the parking spot (37.01396, 15.10426) make sure you leave the car out of the way for heavy vehicles to pass through.
walk down the road to the river bed then up again following the sealed road till it intersect with a dirt road on the right.
Enter the dirt road (disclaimer: this is a private property and the farmer tolerates climber passing by as long as you are respectful) and pass through the property where livestock is kept.
An improvised gate separates the cattle lad from the area after it where an old skeleton of a car lies on the grass. Next to it on the right another improvised gate.
Go through the gate or cross the short "dry-stone" walls to its sides (remember to always close the gate behind you and avoid knocking down rocks when you cross over "dry-stone" walls) then follow the path till you start seing cairns(stone pyramids).
At some stage as you approch the edge of the canyon you'll see the cliff on the left.
Following beatyful rock-carved stairs you'll arrived down the wall.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Una notte con Woody | 6b | ||||||
2 | Dimenticata | 7a | ||||||
3 | Tsunami | 7c | ||||||
4 | La signora Miss Coppola | 7b+/c | ||||||
5 | Hell of the upside-down sinners | 8a | ||||||
6 | White cougar | 8a | ||||||
7 | Lo vedrai | 7c | ||||||
8 | Black dynamit | 7c+ | ||||||
9 | Hell in a bucket | 8a+ | ||||||
10 | L'urlo | 7b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | ★ The mack | 7a+ | ||||||
12 |
★★★ Falcon Street
Anchor shared with The mack. | 7a | ||||||
13 | Mancano solo 100 metri | 8a+ | ||||||
14 | $1k suits, $10k cars, $100k ladies | 8a | ||||||
15 | Wild & free | |||||||
16 | Anchor punch | 8b | ||||||
17 | Godzilla | 7c+ | ||||||
18 | Dog of eternal stench | 7c/c+ | ||||||
19 | Gamgnam style | 8a+ | ||||||
20 | Move on up | 7c | ||||||
21 | Crack hammer | 7c+/8a | ||||||
22 | Superfly | 8b+ | ||||||
23 | Sugar | |||||||
24 | Speedline | 8a+ | ||||||
25 | Pimp steak | 7b | ||||||
26 | Bobo's extreme | 7a+ | ||||||
27 |
Sucati un pruno
Anchor shared with Bobo's extreme | 7c | ||||||
28 | Cats we dig | 7b+ | ||||||
29 | Blast | 8a |
1.2. Bunker
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.116009, 15.177116
descripción
South-east corner of Monti Climiti, not far from the exit Floridia of the highway Catania - Siracusa
1.2.1. Sector Bunker
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 37.115479, 15.176971
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Cinque volte su e giu | 5a | 20m | |||
2 | ★ Piccolonza | 5a | 20m | |||
3 | Coca in pezzi | 5b | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Siamo fragili | 6a | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ Lu bugie dell'amore | 6a | 20m | |||
6 | Salto finale | 5c | 20m | |||
7 | Sulla placca | 5c | 20m |
1.2.2. N' Catalina
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Spaccata | 5c | 18m | |||
2 | ★★ Paffutella | 6b | 18m | |||
3 | Agamennone | 6b+ | 18m | |||
4 | Coefore | 6b+ | 18m | |||
5 | Eumenidi | 6b | 18m | |||
6 | ★ N'Catalina | 5c | 18m |
1.3. Grotta Dei Pipistrelli
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.141700, 15.030100
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mister Lampo | 7a+ | 10m | |||
2 | Nikita | 7c | 18m | |||
3 | La Bella Sconosciuta | 7c | 20m | |||
4 | Variante Ramon | 7c | 10m | |||
5 | Via Dei Pipistrelli | 7b+ | 20m | |||
6 | Sexy Zombye | 14m | ||||
7 | Segreti Perduti | 7b | 16m | |||
8 | Don Nicola | 6b | 22m | |||
9 | Tomas Figaro | 7b | 20m | |||
10 | Mortisia | 7a | 22m | |||
11 | Camarillo Brillo | 25m | ||||
12 | Crisi Di Vocazione | 6b+ | 24m | |||
13 | Ravioli Alla Piero | 7a+ | 28m | |||
14 | La Straniera | 6c+/7a | 28m | |||
15 | Grazie Pierino | 6a | 30m | |||
16 | La Sporca | 5c+ | 30m | |||
17 | Mastrociliegia | 6a | 30m | |||
18 | Omero | 6a | 20m | |||
19 | Viziami E Seviziami | 6b - c | 40m | |||
20 | Mamboloa | 6c | 22m | |||
21 | Delirium | 7b | 22m | |||
22 | Allasamata | 6a | 20m |
1.4. Brucoli Canyon
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.276675, 15.185872
descripción
This area has 10+ routes that range from 4c/5.6 to 7b/5.12b. The main wall is a vertical slab about 70ft of straight vertical crimper climbing. There are other routes scattered thought the canyon that are short and slightly over hanging and easy 5.6 climbing. All the climbing in this location is bolted sport - the whole sector was re-bolted in 2021
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crisi Di Nervi | 5c | ||||
2 | Garden | 4c | ||||
3 | ★★ Falsa Riga | 6a+ | ||||
4 | Calamaro Volante | 6c | ||||
5 | ★★ Bastardo Tu | 6c | ||||
6 | Chalk Factory | 6c | ||||
7 | Buchi Diversi | 6b+ | ||||
8 | Zecche Volanti | 6c | ||||
9 | Attenti Al Ramo | 6c | ||||
10 | Il Fresco D'estate | 6c+ | ||||
11 | Buco Di Miele | 7b+ | ||||
12 | Salviamo Le Volpi | 7b |
1.5. Arena
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.027700, 15.142600
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Geysir | 7a | ||||
2 | Rachitic | 6b | ||||
3 | Spartacuss | 7a+ | ||||
4 | Aphrodita | 7a+ | ||||
5 | Pogo | 7c+ | ||||
6 | Zion | 7c+ | ||||
7 | Rachot | 7a | ||||
8 | Sincrux | 6c | ||||
9 | Crux | 8a | ||||
10 | Etna | 7b+ | ||||
11 | Gladiator | 7c+ |
1.6. Bellavista
- Summary:
-
9 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.136700, 15.130700
1.6.1. Belvedere
- Summary:
-
9 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Consigli Di Un Amico | 6b+ | ||||
2 | Non Torno Più | 6c | ||||
3 | Pornotentazioni | 7a | ||||
4 | Tentazioni | 7a | ||||
5 | Carogna | 6c | ||||
6 | Como Feti | 6b | ||||
7 | Cip | 6a | ||||
8 | Ciop | 6a | ||||
9 | Non Ci Penso | 5c |
1.7. La Pagoda
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.281231, 15.212980
Acceso
(37.28271569, 15.212074756) Turn right at the end of Via Favignana and follow the path
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Grazie A
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Most bolts are rusted in the whole crag | 6a | ||||
2 | Graziella | 5c | ||||
3 | Grazie Al Caso | 5b | ||||
4 | C'ero Già | 5a | ||||
5 | Boulder Room | 7a+ | ||||
6 | Orizzonte | 7b | ||||
7 | Occhio | 7a | ||||
8 | Malocchio | 6c | ||||
9 | Prezzemolo | 6b+ | ||||
10 | Finocchio | 6b+ | ||||
11 | La Grondaia | 6a+ | ||||
12 | Stocc'a Destra | 6a+ | ||||
13 | A Te Mario | 6a | ||||
14 | Baby Squid | 6a | ||||
15 | Spigola | 5c | ||||
16 | Idrocele | 6c | ||||
17 | Placca Della Pagoda | 6b |
1.8. Servolare
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.164818, 14.910549
descripción
Lovely climbing sector with more than 60 routes. Wooden plates show the names of almost all the routes.
Acceso
Parking for around 5 cars right next to the main road.
Short walk along the road until a cairn marks the approach to the sector.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Roccia e spine | 5b | 12m | |||||
2 | Cambia Mano | 5c | 12m | |||||
3 | Allunga a sinistra | 6b+ | 12m | |||||
4 | Chi circa Trova | 6c | 12m | |||||
5 | Demolition man | 5c+ | 12m | |||||
6 | Per ettore | 6b | 12m | |||||
7 | Tieni duro | 6c | 12m | |||||
8 | Devia a destra | 6b | 12m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Per estella | 4b | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Piccoli passi | 4b | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | Junior | 4b | 15m | |||||
12 | ★ Rocky | 4c | 15m | |||||
13 | Le fatiche di ettore | 5a | 15m | |||||
14 | ★★ The Boss | 5a | 15m | |||||
15 | ★ Profumo di cipolla | 5a+ | 15m | |||||
16 | ★★ Regalo di natale | 5b | 15m | |||||
17 | ★★ Il calzolaio | 5a | 15m | |||||
18 | ★★ Boy Scout | 5c | 15m | |||||
19 | Potatura | 5c | 18m | |||||
20 | I Migliori Anni | 5c | 18m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Servolare
Powerful bouldery starting sequence. | 5c | 18m | |||||
22 | Voglio Ballare | 5a | 18m | |||||
23 | Largo dei Vespri | 5a | 18m | |||||
24 | Mandorlo in fiore | 5a | 18m | |||||
25 | Ottimismo | 5b | 18m | |||||
26 | ★★ Love Sicily | 5c+ | 15m | |||||
27 |
★★ Staff
Wooden plate "Over the top". | 6a | 15m | |||||
28 | L'unione fa sempre la forza | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
29 | ★★ Jeep | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
30 |
★★ Diciasette
Painful holds at starting sequence | 6b | 15m | |||||
31 |
★★★ Sagitter
Overhang with good holds, then easy climbing. | 6c | 15m | |||||
32 | La principessa e il ... | 6a | 15m | |||||
33 | A Testa alta | 5c | 12m | |||||
34 | Nocciola e pistacchio | 6b | 12m | |||||
35 | ★ Per fortuna | 5c+ | 12m | |||||
36 | ★★★ Serenita | 6b | 12m | |||||
37 | ★★ La Mia dottoressa | 5c+ | 12m | |||||
38 | ★★★ Trilli | 5a | 12m | |||||
39 | I Minions | 4a | 12m | |||||
40 | Cacamola | 4a | 12m | |||||
41 | Maui | 4a | 12m | |||||
42 | Vaiana | |||||||
43 | ★★ Paperino | 6a | 12m | |||||
44 | Qui Quo Qua | 6a | 12m | |||||
45 | Masha e Orso | 6a+ | 12m | |||||
46 | Uovo Uovo | 6a | 12m | |||||
47 | La Grotta | 6a+ | 12m | |||||
48 | ★★ Mi dai un Bacio | 5c+ | 12m | |||||
49 | Troppo Lavoro | 6b | 12m | |||||
50 | Lo vuoi lo vuoi | 6a+ | 12m | |||||
51 | ★★★ L'Etna imbiancata | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
52 | Anche le Mucche | 5a+ | 20m | |||||
53 | Se fosse sempre Natale | 5b+ | 15m | |||||
54 | Luna Rossa | 6a+ | 10m | |||||
55 | La Vela | 6a+ | ||||||
56 | Robin Hood | 4c | 15m | |||||
57 | ★ Week End | 4b | 15m | |||||
58 | T.I.N. E.T.I.P. | 4a | 15m | |||||
59 | ★★★ Lo Spigolo | 4b | 15m | |||||
60 | Sogni di Rock&Roll | 4c | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
61 | Tra Palco e realtà | 5a | 15m | |||||
62 | ★ Gran Canyon | 4c | 15m | |||||
63 | Troppi Asparagi | 5b | 15m | |||||
64 | La Mia Sorellina | 6a | 15m |
1.9. Sant Andrea
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.162861, 14.909917
descripción
Plenty of routen in different Grades, well bolted, all between 10 and 18 m.
Acceso
Downhill
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mirto
Dreckig und verwachsen | 6b+ | ||||
2 |
★★★ Nana
Siehe Mirto | 6a | ||||
3 | ★★ Il Primo | 5b - c | ||||
4 | ★ Milicucco | 6b | ||||
5 | HDL | 6a+ | ||||
6 | Kleine Giftnatter | 6b | ||||
7 | Salvia | 5c+ | ||||
8 | ★★★ Timo | 5c+ | ||||
9 | ★★★ Rosmarino | 5c+ | ||||
10 | ★★ Occhio | 5b | ||||
11 | ★★ Cappero | 5b | ||||
12 |
★★★ Nasenloch
Kannte die wie eine Nase aussieht. | 6a+ | 18m, 6 | |||
13 | Nasino | |||||
14 | ★★ Buco | 6b+ | ||||
15 | ★★ Baby Bauch | 6a+ | ||||
16 | ★★★ Olivastro | 5c+ | ||||
17 | ★★★ Saponaria | 5b | ||||
18 | ★★ Artemisa | 5b | ||||
19 | ★★★ Origano | 5b | ||||
20 | ★★★ Katcus | 5c+ | 20m, 7 | |||
21 | Naso | 6b | ||||
22 | ★★★ Il Diedro | 6a | ||||
23 | Ramo Destro | 5c | ||||
24 | ★★ Come Volete | 6b | ||||
25 | ★★ Ortica Dolens | 6a+ | ||||
26 | ★★ Senza Nome | 6a+ | ||||
27 | Senza Nome 1 | 6b/b+ | ||||
28 | ★★ Vecchi Tempi | 6b+ | ||||
29 | 22 Luglio | 6b | ||||
30 | 20 Giugno | 6b | ||||
31 | Vai A Destra | 6c | ||||
32 | Carogna | 6b | ||||
33 | ★★★ Toro | 6c | ||||
34 | Oggi Pago Io | 7a | ||||
35 | ★★★ Senza Nome 2 | 7a | 15m, 7 | |||
36 | Senza Nome 3 | 6a | ||||
37 | Senza Nome 4 | 6a | ||||
38 | ★ Senza Nome 5 | 5c - 6a | ||||
39 | ★ Esspressione Colorata | 6b | ||||
40 | ★★ Oissa | 6a+ | ||||
41 | Spanick | 6a+ | ||||
42 |
Fanciulla
Erste Route des rechten/ersten Sektors | 5c |
1.10. Sortino
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.157100, 15.086600
1.10.1. Settore Inferiore
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Coloscolo | 6a | ||||
2 | Mad Max | 6b | ||||
3 | Falsodiedro | 6c+ | ||||
4 | Tetto Giallo | 6c+ |
1.10.2. Settore Superiore
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rosmarino | 6a+ | ||||
2 | Salvia E Timo | 6a+ | ||||
3 | Cannelle | 6b | ||||
4 | Api E Primavera | 6c+ | ||||
5 | L'effimero Ritorno | 7a+ | ||||
6 | Sale E Pepe | 6c+ | ||||
7 | Cayenna | 7a+ |
1.11. Metamorfosi
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 37.140200, 15.028900
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Il Gobbo | 12m | ||||
2 | Max Il Pioniere | 14m | ||||
3 | Ultimo Grido | 12m | ||||
4 | Leggende Necropolitane | 30m | ||||
5 | Guttalax | 6c+ | 20m | |||
6 | Relazioni Private | 6c+ | 22m | |||
7 | Ombre Nella Polvere | 7a+ | 20m | |||
8 | Merceria Del Viale | 7b+ | 20m | |||
9 | Torello Siciliano | 7b+ | 22m | |||
10 | Fuga Dall'abisso | 7b | 24m | |||
11 | Saluti E Caci | 7c+ | 22m |
1.12. Gole della Stretta
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.158051, 14.880509
Resumen
Narrow canyon with a couple of vertical routes and a lot of harder, overhanging tufa routes. Approached from above.
descripción
Bolt quality here is a bit all over the place. Most bolts are mechanical anchors with hangers, the belay anchors are typically one bolt and one eyebolt, connected with a chain and maillon.
While most bolts look fine, some are very rusty and should be replaced. Some routes seem to have been rebolted recently (as of Jan 2024), others have very old material.
Acceso
Park at (37.1588000, 14.8817900). The road there is not the best, so careful with low or very wide vehicles. The last portion up to the parking spots is better paved again. If above parking is full, you can park just a bit earlier at
(37.1568798, 14.8826357) or here
(37.1563854, 14.8831577).
From the first-mentioned parking above there is a trail going left, down into the canyon. It‘s marked by cairns. After the section that descends rock stairs, try to stay on the path that traverses slightly left rather than down. It‘s easy to miss as there are many wrong tracks.
Alojamiento
The closest village is Buccheri. Otherwise, the Lo Zafferaneto hotel is located just next to the climbing sector.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Galleria del Vento | 5b | 10m | |||
2 | Ciccio | 5c | 10m | |||
3 | Luna di Fiele | 4c | 22m | |||
4 | ★★ Prima Via | 6a | 22m | |||
5 | Il Falco | 6a | 22m | |||
6 |
Il Pericolo
Boulder start, first bolt clippable from the ground. | 6c | 22m | |||
7 | ★★★ Comanda e vacci tu | 7a+ | 25m | |||
8 | Dogs in Love | 6b+ | 12m | |||
9 | Matalufu / Tre In Una | 6a | 28m | |||
10 |
★★ Tinnirumi
Shares the start with "Sinapu", left line after the mini-roof. | 5c | 28m | |||
11 |
★ Sinapu
Shares the start with "Tinnirumi", then goes right after the mini-roof. | 5c | 28m | |||
12 | ★ Muscoli di Gomma | 6b | 28m | |||
13 | ★★ Sotto La Pioggia | 6b | 24m | |||
14 |
★ Fatti un Selfie
Starts very easy on blocky, easy terrain, then gets hard after the mini-roof. | 6a | 25m | |||
15 | Minimizzi | 4c | 25m | |||
16 | Regalo di Natale | 4b | 18m | |||
17 |
Autunno Sardo
Follows the left corner of the overhang. | 6b | 16m | |||
18 |
Prigioniero per Scelta
Horizontal roof climb | 7b+/c | 18m | |||
19 | ★★★ Deficient Wall | 6c+ | 22m | |||
20 | The Corner | 6b+ | ||||
21 | La Siretta / La Stretta | 5c | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Lega Leggera | 7b | 18m | |||
23 | ★★ Gioia | 7a | 17m |
1.13. Curvone
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.107694, 15.173703
Resumen
A crag near abandoned query and the road. Routes are mostly vertical to somewhat slabby and sometimes overhanging.
descripción
Quick access is nice, but the closeness to the quite busy and noisy road can be a bit bothersome.
The upper sector gets sun at around noon, and the lower sector after around 1 PM.
Acceso
Park on the side of the road (just before the road fence or even earlier). A few metres after the start of the fence there's a path leading right to the crag (less than 1 minute total).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pino | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | Pinuccia | 5c+ | 15m | |||
3 | Anestetica | 7a | 16m | |||
4 | Duiler | 6c | 16m | |||
5 | ★ Li Belli Gladoli | 6a+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ Via Dellalbero | 6b+ | 15m | |||
7 | ★★ Streaming | 6b+ | 15m | |||
8 | Le Viosioner | 6b | ||||
9 | ★★★ L Ultima Lametta | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 | Hidde Hole | 6c+ | 15m | |||
11 | Curvone cris | 7a | 14m | |||
12 | In Viaggio Controano | 7c+ | 18m | |||
13 | Tsunami | 6c+ | 22m | |||
14 | ★★★ Esami Di Pirarazioni | 6a+ | 22m | |||
15 | ★★★ Latino E Greco | 6b+ | 22m | |||
16 | ★★★ Andate a Scuola | 6a | 22m | |||
17 | Lanera | 6a+ | 25m | |||
18 | Delikatessen | 6a+ | 22m | |||
19 | ★★ Conchette | 6b+ | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Mollicone | 6b | 25m | |||
21 | Striscia | 6b | 25m | |||
22 | Boggie Boggie | 6a+ | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Tempi Andati | 6a | 23m | |||
24 | El Cappero | 7a | 25m | |||
25 | Claudia E Maria | 6c+ | 25m | |||
26 | Hisiti | 7c+ | 25m | |||
27 | Navata Centrale | 7b+ | 25m | |||
28 | New Friend | 7c+ | 25m | |||
29 | ★★★ Alfiere Volante | 7a+ | 25m | |||
30 | ★★ Ultimo Esame | 6c+ | 22m | |||
31 | Umberto | 6c | 25m | |||
32 | A Destra Del Re | 6b+ | 22m | |||
33 | Aspettando La Luna | 7a | 24m | |||
34 | Il Rosso Che Incanta | 7a | 20m | |||
35 | Il Rosso Che Rapisce | 7a+ | 20m | |||
36 | Milano Andata E Ritorno | 6c+ | 20m | |||
37 | Tenente Colombo | 7b | 25m |