★★ Via Fehrmann {UIAA} 4+

The original route starts further to the left and climbs diagonally to the right (III+). (40m, III+)

Diagonally to the left, then up to the dihedral/gully that you follow until an overhang forces you to move slightly to the right. Follow the short dihedral that ends on a ledge with the belay (2 bolts, chain & ring). (30m, IV-)

Reach the dihedral to the left of the belay and follow it. At its end, a gully leads to a ledge with a small cave. Move a little to the right to the belay (2 bolts). (25m, IV+)

Watch out for rope drag! Go to the right of the overhang formed by the cave, up the easy crack to the wide ledge, then traverse to the left to reach the dihedral, which you follow briefly to the belay (2 pitons). (30m, IV-)

Follow the dihedral gully up to the saddle. Along the ridgeline you reach the top of Torre Stabeler with the anchor (cemented piton). (40m, IV)