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Valle Pora Guide

  • Contexto de grado: FR
  • Ascensiones: 462

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Fre Michal Bryxí Daniel Lars Moritz Kraus Jannik Jantzen

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Valle Pora 47 routes in Area

Summary:
E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 44.175346, 8.323345

1.1. Rocce dell'Orera 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.172652, 8.318751

descripción

Limestone with many holes and few crystals. View onto Finalborgo, east side of Valle Aquila, and Rocca di Petri.

After climbing, you may walk 10-15min to south-west to "Bar Osteria La Rosa dei Venti" (directly next to "Chiesa di San Martino") and enjoy a drink on the sunny terrace with wide view across the bay housing Pietra Ligure, Loano, Albenga etc.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Not yet located

If you know where these routes are located, please resequence accordingly and ultimately remove this annotation.

2 Bosco

Same chain as Cielo

4b Deportiva 13m
3 Fuoco

It is better to avoid linkup due to problems of attrition of the rope

6a Deportiva 32m, 2

Settore destro

As of 2008, several bolts were not fixed but slightly moving. As of 2022, many old bolts have been cut and new, solid/fixed bolts placed.

5 L'Apprendista

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

3c Deportiva 7m, 5
6 Moro

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

3c Deportiva 7m, 7
7 Traunaelaltra 4a Deportiva 7
8 Luna diretta

The first 2 bolts are loose and the plates have been removed, hence only 3 (same as in 'Luna').

6a Deportiva 15m, 3
9 Luna

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

5a Deportiva 15m, 7
10 Cobrecesi

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

5a Deportiva 17m, 8
11 Pedro

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

5c Deportiva 25m, 2
12 Chiacchia

SL 1 has 3 bolts, SL 2 8. Better abseil in 2 steps due to strong rope friction.

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

4c Deportiva 30m, 2, 11
13 Sono Gino

SL 1 has 7 bolts, 4/2022 no second SL visible (no hooks but vegetation) and also not in guide book "Finale Climbing" by Marco Tomassini of 5/2017 while it is mentioned in "Finale 007" by Andrea Gallo of 3/2008 — was 2nd SL discontinued?

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

4a Deportiva 40m, 2
14 Camalli

PA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001

4a Deportiva 20m, 6
15 Nonna manin

SL1 6a 20m, SL2 5c 20m, SL3 6a 15m

6a Deportiva 55m, 3
16 Maddalena

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Old and dangerous hooks!

5c Deportiva
17 Stringile forte

PAL: R. Minuto & M. Rebagliati, 1992

6b Deportiva 15m
18 Stringile piano

PAL: R. Minuto & M. Rebagliati, 1992

6a Deportiva 15m
19 Fuorivia

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Old bolts

PA: 1990

6a Deportiva 15m
20 Diedro Delle Situazioni Differenti

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Old and dangerous bolts! Don't climb!

PAL: F. Boetto, G. Grappiolo & N. Ivaldo

5c Deportiva 70m
21 I diedri obliqui

PAL: G. Calcagno & L. Calcagno, 1974

5b Deportiva 70m
22 Via degli urlatori

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Old and dangerous hooks!

PAL: G. Fornaro, G. Gregoretti & G. Hualinetti, 1982

6a Deportiva 10m

Settore sinistro

24 Diedro del bandito 5a Deportiva 17m
25 Diedro di rocco 4b Deportiva 13m
26 Silvano 6a Deportiva 13m
27 Il carbonaio 5c Deportiva 19m
28 Nuvole 4a Deportiva 9m
29 Unknown 2

According to "Finale 007" by Andrea Gallo of 3/2008, lower off right of & at same height as the lower end of 'Cicino'.

5c Deportiva 10m
30 Cicino

PAL: G. Calcagno & L. Calcagno, 1974

6a Deportiva 35m, 2
31 Variante Cicino

Leads to the second pitch of Cicino.

4a Deportiva 8m
32 Cielo 5a Deportiva 17m
33 L'angolo nel cielo 6a Deportiva 33m, 12
34 Saluti da Ausserberg

The grade is given by the roof at the beginning. A couple bolts after the roof, the root merges with the 6a next to it, 'L'angolo nel cielo'.

7a Deportiva 35m
35 I segni del tempo 6a+ Deportiva 35m
36 Razza Bastarda 4c Deportiva 46m, 3
37 Donne, crave oche 6a Deportiva 20m
38 Fanni e Desva 5b Deportiva 30m, 2
39 Zanzibar

It is possible to linkup the 2 pitches

5b Deportiva 34m, 2
40 Trocadero 5b Deportiva 15m
41 Durbega 6a Deportiva 16m

1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.177181, 8.323771

Resumen

Ein schönes Felsmassiv mit besonders kompaktem Fels, welches sich deutlich von den anderen Felsen bei Finale unterscheidet. In den Wintermonaten liegt die Wand zwischen 9 und 14 Uhr in der Sonne.

descripción

Die Ausrichtung der Wand ist nach Südwesten.

Acceso

Parkplatz bei Finalborgo. (44.1757397, 8.3255054) Durch das Stadttor hindurch und links hoch zum Forte San Giovanni gehen. Fast oben, bei der dritt letzten Kurve, über die kleine Mauer steigen und dem Weg bis zum Sektor nach unten folgen.

Historia

Im Jahr 2010 wurden der Sektor saniert und mit drei neuen Routen ergänzt. Die Gemeinde Finale Ligure finazierte das gesamte Material. M. Tomassini und D. Canale kümmerten sich massgeblich um die Sanierung.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ich habe einen Bandwurm

Leichter Einstiegssockel, dann senkrechte und technisch schwierige Ausdauerkletterei. In der mitte eine knifflige Passage.

6a Deportiva 20m
2 Tira dritto furbacchione

Leichter Einstiegssockel, dann trotz guter Griffe viel Ausdauerkraft und Technik nötig.

6b Deportiva 20m
3 Cessulè stu Casinu

Schräges Felsband, heikle und leicht geneigte Platte, senkrechte Wandkletterei mit guten Griffen.

6a Deportiva 20m
4 Il mago di word

Schräges Felsband, dann technisch schwierige Platte mit viel Balance-und Bewegungsgefühl.

6a+ Deportiva 20m
5 Il ragazzo con l'orecchino da pirla 6a+ Deportiva 21m
6 Il labirinto 6a Deportiva 21m
7 Sgrillettami 6a+ Deportiva 20m
8 Decimino 5b Deportiva 12m
9 Medcamalia 6b+ Deportiva 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3c L'Apprendista Deportiva 7m, 5 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Moro Deportiva 7m, 7 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
4a Camalli Deportiva 20m, 6 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Nuvole Deportiva 9m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Sono Gino Deportiva 40m, 2 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Traunaelaltra Deportiva 7 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Variante Cicino Deportiva 8m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
4b Bosco Deportiva 13m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Diedro di rocco Deportiva 13m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
4c Chiacchia Deportiva 30m, 2, 11 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Razza Bastarda Deportiva 46m, 3 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
5a Cielo Deportiva 17m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Cobrecesi Deportiva 17m, 8 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Diedro del bandito Deportiva 17m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Luna Deportiva 15m, 7 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
5b Fanni e Desva Deportiva 30m, 2 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
I diedri obliqui Deportiva 70m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Trocadero Deportiva 15m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Zanzibar Deportiva 34m, 2 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Decimino Deportiva 12m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
5c Diedro Delle Situazioni Differenti Deportiva 70m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Il carbonaio Deportiva 19m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Maddalena Deportiva 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Pedro Deportiva 25m, 2 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Unknown 2 Deportiva 10m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
6a Cicino Deportiva 35m, 2 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Donne, crave oche Deportiva 20m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Durbega Deportiva 16m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Fuoco Deportiva 32m, 2 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Fuorivia Deportiva 15m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
L'angolo nel cielo Deportiva 33m, 12 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Luna diretta Deportiva 15m, 3 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Nonna manin Deportiva 55m, 3 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Silvano Deportiva 13m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Stringile piano Deportiva 15m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Via degli urlatori Deportiva 10m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Cessulè stu Casinu Deportiva 20m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
Ich habe einen Bandwurm Deportiva 20m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
Il labirinto Deportiva 21m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
6a+ I segni del tempo Deportiva 35m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Il mago di word Deportiva 20m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
Il ragazzo con l'orecchino da pirla Deportiva 21m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
Sgrillettami Deportiva 20m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
6b Stringile forte Deportiva 15m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
Tira dritto furbacchione Deportiva 20m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
6b+ Medcamalia Deportiva 20m 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo
7a Saluti da Ausserberg Deportiva 35m 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera
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