Nodos en Hell's Gate

Excellent trad climbing from short cracks to long multi-pitch routes, just 2 hours drive from Nairobi.

The Main Wall is the biggest and most serious cliff easily accessible from Nairobi. The majority of routes feel their way over loose sections and the finishes generally require care. It is not the place where one can afford to lunge for holds. Walls and slabs are virtually frictionless and most routes tend to follow cracks and grooves. Generally speaking, climbs on the Main Wall fall into a similar pattern. Starts follow steep, sound cracklines, then at about 60 m fade into broken ground which leads to looser exits. The wall comes into shade around lunchtime, and can be uncomfortably hot from 10 until it comes into shade.

Left side of the Main Wall

About 30 m left of 'The Big Corner' there is a prominent roof curving up rightwards from the ground. Further left is a similar feature. Start just right of this point.

1. 30 m Climb up 6 m then traverse right across wall (peg runner) for 9 m and step right into corner and ledge beneath groove. Climb groove (1 aid nut), to crack and ascend blocks to good belay.

2. 43 m Move up 3 m then traverse right for 12 m to projecting ledge. Using this swing rightwards to corner with steep wall above. Climb wall direct to broken rock and belay.

3. 24 m Move up right for a few feet then back left across lip of overhang to corner (peg runner). Move left onto loose wall (1 aid peg), then straight up to finish. Seriousness: 4

About 30 m left of 'Juggernaut' there is an obvious pale-coloured corner which starts about 30 m up the face. Start below here at a small recess.

1. 31 m Move up 3 m then traverse right to blocks. Up these making slightly leftwards to prominent finger of rock pointing at the ground. Move up right of rock-finger (peg runner), and climb to cracks and big ledge on top of block. Traverse left 6 m to a groove. Up this and climb bulge above. Now move up leftwards to a belay on arete beneath big corner. Peg belays.

2. 31 m Move up 5 m to overhang. Climb this and move up slab above to start of groove (peg runner). Traverse left into corner and up this to make a difficult exit left at the top onto a ledge.

3. 38 m Step right off ledge and pass obvious flake. Continue right and up diagonal crack (2 aid nuts). Move into recess at the top. Up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 4

Start about 40' left of 'Future Shock' at a wall with lots of holds.

1. 38 m Ascend wall and bear right to groove which leads to overhang. Up groove and surmount overhang. Climb slab above until good crack appears on left. Move right across steep wall into a groove and up to belay ledge.

2. 24 m Move up left to pointed flake. Up flake then traverse left onto slab and groove. Up groove to bulge. Surmount this, swing left and up to overhang. Traverse left to corner and up broken rock to belay under large overhanging corner.

3. 16 m Traverse right, then up over bulges (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg), to good ledge. Move right then back left to ledge at foot of steep crack.

4. 22 m Up crack moving right at top and continue up crack system to finish Seriousness: 3

Start between 'Future Shock' and 'Juggernaut'.

1. 37 m Rising traverse leftwards leads to a difficult move into a sharp 'V' groove. Up groove 2 m then straight up (3 aid moves), and continue to good stance on right.

2. 24 m Traverse left across steep wall to small ledge. Continue left under overhang. Surmount overhangs leftwards with aid. Move left into groove then up to belay below large overhanging corner.

3. 12 m Straight up overhanging corner on aid to good belay below final pitch.

4. 37 m Move to last pitch of 'Future Shock' and finish by way of this. (The belays on this route are all shared with 'Juggernaut’. The first part of Pitch 2 is reversing the final section of the first pitch of 'Juggernaut') Seriousness: 3

Some 9 m left of 'Exterminator' there is a fairly obvious grey pillar/column with a crack splitting it. The pillar leans up rightwards from the foot of the cliff and is where the route begins. Chipped arrow and 'FS' marks start.

1. 34 m Up crack to ledge at top of pillar. Climb wall a few feet then move left (peg runner), round a corner and mantleshelf up to another ledge. Move up slightly right then left along a ledge beneath an overhang. From left end of this sloping ledge lower 1.5 m off a peg to gain corner and belay.

2. 30 m Up steep slabs to right of wall (2 aid pegs), then swing left to ledge. Step left then straight up to overhanging crack. Climb crack (3 aid pegs), and step right and up to belay.

3. 37 m Move up right to block then up left to broken shell-like rock. Move left over this to foot of steep crack. Climb this and move right and up to belay ledge.

4. 21 m Easily up broken rock to top. (This route joins 'Juggernaut' at the foot of the steep crack on Pitch 3). Seriousness: 3

Start 9 m left of 'Exterminator'.

1. 12 m Move up wall 5 m then traverse left to crack on right side of prominent column. Ascend crack to good ledge right of column.

2. 15 m Move right 3 m to thin crack then follow this to bulge. Climb over bulge (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut) to good belay ledge on right.

3. 18 m Climb thin crack directly above belay on aid nuts and two pegs. The thin crack ends in a groove which is climbed free to belay. (This is the same belay as the one at the end of Pitch 2 of Exterminator).

4. 18 m Follow Pitch 3 of 'Exterminator' to its belay. At this point 'Exterminator' traverses off leftwards. Instead of doing this continue up the steepening corner (1 aid nut), until a move can be made onto a ledge on the right. Move up to good belay ledge.

5. 37 m Straight above belay to obvious finish.

Seriousness: 3

About five metres right of the original start, directly below the belay of Pitch 3 (original) there is an overhang at 4 metres. Up a slight undercut, then step right and back left under overhang which is taken from the left. Up into groove and continue directly to the belay of the original Pitch 3.

At this point the original Pitch 3 and 4 can be linked, thus producing a sustained two pitch adventure.

Start 9 m left of 'Magician' where an obvious Wall leads up leftwards.

1. 24 m Easily up wall for 9 m then traverse left to ledge below obvious groove. Climb groove to a small stance at 9 m. Nut belay.

2. 24 m Continue up groove to roof then step left onto ledge below steep slab. Move up slab to the right into wide crack. Up crack then back across top of slab to belay. Pegs in place at belay (one ok, one poor).

3. 9 m Climb corner and bulge to ledge above. Peg belay.

4. 12 m Traverse left to arete. Up arete 3 m then take obvious traverse left to broken rock.

5. 35 m Up this to top.

Seriousness: 3

Start 5 m left of 'Magician'. The first belay on this route is shared with 'Magician'.

1. 25 m Easily up broken rock to cracked overhang, with a large block stuck underneath.Up this block to steep thin crack above. Up this to ledge. Move up right (1 aid peg), to stance below tree.

2. 30 m Move up leftwards to traverse line leading left to thin crack. Up crack and round roof above (4 aid nuts), to obvious open groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on left.

3. 30 m Move to large pale corner and ascend 5 m until a traverse line right can be taken. Move down right (peg runner), and round arete into a groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on right.

4. 40 m Climb up steep corner. A peg in a hole on the left wall makes it possible to move leftwards to arete and ledges. Move up leftwards then trend right to top. Seriousness: 4

Start below the prominent grey-rooted tree and slightly right.

1. 22 m Up easily for 9 m (peg runner), then left and up to overhang. Climb overhang by way of a steep square-cut groove (1 aid nut and 1 aid thread). Up groove a few feet to a belay below and to the left of tree.

2. 27 m Up right through tree to slab. Up slab moving right into groove and up to good ledges on right. Step back left and up twin cracks to a belay on sloping ledge on right. Nut belay.

3. 30 m Step down left then traverse round corner into niche. Traverse left round next corner then up broken rock to overhangs, (peg runner). Move left a few feet to foot of large pale corner. Up this 20' to reach first peg. Up to good ledge on left (2 aid moves). Follow this to arete and belay round corner.

4. 43 m Up 6 m then left across steep wall to ledges. Round corner then up to obvious corner. Follow this to top. Seriousness: 3

This section of the Left End has many routes on it and the best way of locating starts is to look for the prominent grey-rooted tree growing some 21 m up 'Magician'. This route starts 6 m right of 'Magician' where an easy buttress leads up to an overhang at 15 m.

1. 38 m Up easy buttress to steep crack. Up this and round roof on aid, (mostly nuts). Free climbing follows up groove above to roof. Round this (1 aid peg), and up to belay on ledge. Peg belay.

2. 18 m Traverse right a few feet to large perched block above. Up this and follow crack to more perched blocks. Step left and up to belays. Peg belay.

3. 31 m Traverse right across groove to a bulge. Up this into groove (peg runner), and up groove to overhang. Move right onto ledge on arete. Up to flake and belay.

4. 18 m Up to peg above. Using this move left with difficulty and climb up to wide crack, (peg runner). Traverse left across slab and up to belay at poor stance. Peg belay

5. 25 m Move up to overhang, move left and up move left then back right to top. Seriousness: 5

The Left End of Main Wall, crossing with Capital Punishment for a section of the white corner.

1. Go up easier ground to where the rock becomes less featured, then traverse on small holds to reach a splitter finger crack going up. Anchor here.

2. Go up the crack to a hanging belay in the corner.

3. Break out left from the belay under a roof to the belay anchors.

Rappel 55 m from here (tie two ropes) or continue up on bad rock to top out.

To the left of the 'Caiaphas' section of the Left End there is a prominent overhanging area with a steep slab beneath it. Splitting the overhang is an obvious white corner with a large flake jutting from it. The route goes up the slab then follows this corner. Start 24 m left of Caiaphas.

1. 37 m Move up left to steep crack. Up this then swing left to ledge. Step left to another ledge. Move up right then back left to groove. Ascend groove to sloping ledge beneath slab, (peg runner on slab). Traverse left a few feet along grassy ledge to the start of thin crack. Climb this (5 aid pegs), to belay below foot of big corner.

2. 24 m Up left to foot of corner. Up this past flakes to overhang. Step right past bolt and round to ledge. Step right to corner. Up this to good ledge and belays. (8 aid nuts, 6 aid pegs and 1 bolt were used on this pitch).

3. Move up right to ledge. Step right around corner and up to thin crack. Climb up (peg runner), then traverse left 3 m to better rock. Up past tree to top. Seriousness: 5

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start 12 m left of 'Caiaphas'. Ascend twin cracks for 3 m then swing left to sloping ledge. Traverse left 3 m to corner with loose flake. Up this then swing left to good ledge. Move up to crack and up this moving left under bulge at top. Up groove to broken rock and belay. 'Caiaphas' can be joined by traversing up rightwards. Seriousness: 3

In the middle of this broken area of the Left End there is a short steep layback crack rising from the ground for 5 m. This is the start of the route. A chipped arrow and 'C1' mark the start.

1. 38 m Up thin crack, step right across wall and pull up onto ledge. Up right then back left to groove and swing round detached block. Up to bulge (peg runner beneath bulge). Strenuously over bulge and up crack to small ledge. Move up 3 m and take traverse line leading left. Move round into corner and pull up onto ledge behind shrub. Climb up to good belay in recess. Peg belay in place.

2. 24 m Climb round left wall and easily up 9 m to obvious steep crack. Up this 30' then move right to belay in chimney.

3. 33 m Traverse left along ledges to cave. Up left wall of cave to top. Seriousness: 3

Between 'Caiaphas' and 'The Amazing Journey' there is a steep groove at 18 m splitting the overhang. This route climbs this feature. Start 6 m left of 'The Amazing Journey' at a groove leading up to a grey column on the right.

1. 25 m Climb groove and step right to ledge. Up wide crack on left of grey column for 6 m then step right beneath bulge. Climb bulge

2. (1 aid peg), then up left, round arete and traverse 2 m to ledge. Move up to foot of steep groove/chute splitting overhangs. Belay on sloping ledge.

3. 15 m Chimney up until it is possible to step right to ledges (1 aid peg). Move right a few feet then up to broken ground. Move up right to belay on grassy ledge.

4. 18 m Up over blocks on right to wide crack at back of pedestal. Climb this and traverse left over broken blocks to main terrace and belay.

5. 15 m Move easily to steep wall with a thin crack on the left and another on the right. Climb right crack straight up to flake on right. Traverse right across this flake and up to belay.

6. 37 m Move up rightwards to final wall. Climb this at obvious break, moving left when possible. Up to short brown wall which is taken direct to top. Seriousness: 3

This route begins approximately 91 m left of the prominent overhanging area. It is easy to find for at this particular section the wall is less steep with a broken area some 46 m up from the ground. The route starts 12 m right of 'Caiaphas' at the base of a series of cracks

1. 30 m Up cracks and trend leftward for approx 10m mounting a series of ledges. Move up towards a bulge and take an obvious traverse line leading off right below it. Continue along traverse for 12 m to an arete. Tension around this (peg in place with a 6foot cordalette), with precarious but exciting moves. Place small gear in a crack to protect your second. Continue onward rightwards for approx 6m with tricky moves up to a good platform and belay. (VS)

2. 18m Move up leftward off the belay, traversing for approx 9m to a large obvious ledge. Gain groove up on right by way of a short steep wall, and climb groove for 9m threading your way among loose chock stones to a broken ledge. Possibly best to belay from the top of groove rather than in the broken corner above.

3. 18 m Climb crack with questionable rock above for 6 m then step carefully right below a large block system along sloping shelf. Descend 3 m onto large ledge with tree.

4. 37 m From ledge head up to follow obvious crack / corner system above. The rock is not great but decent placements can be found with hexes and nuts. At the top of the crack step left and make a couple of steep moves to gain a series of ledges that allow you to gain a ramp that will take you easily to the top

Seriousness: 2-3

This route is a spectacular traverse across the lip of the large grey-streaked overhanging area left of 'Dog-Leg'. Above the overhang there is a prominent steep brown wall. The climb is a right to left traverse under this wall. Walk round to the top of the Left End (allow twenty minutes), and the descent point to the start of the traverse is 15 m left (directions facing cliff) of where the Left End rises to the Central Wall.

1. 25 m Descend a fairly easy gully down the right side of the brown wall to a good belay point at the start of the traverse. Peg belays.

2. 18 m Traverse left along lip to a belay 1 edge at grass patch.

3. 24 m Continue traversing and move round corner to start of ramp system leading downwards. Descend ramp then move onto another ramp which leads to edge of overhang. From lowest point step left onto block and up wall above to good belay in vultures nest.

4. 15 m Traverse left 6 m then up and right to belay below gully.

5. 25 m Finish by way of ramp on left of gully. A selection of pegs (mostly thin blades and small angles) should be carried for protection purposes on Pitch 3. There are few natural runner placements on this pitch.

This route can be joined from the last pitch of ‘Gimme Shelter’. Seriousness: 5

This route starts about 30 m left of 'Dogsbody', to the right of the obvious big grey-streaked overhanging area. A small pedestal marks the start.

1. 24 m From top of pedestal ascend crack for 15 m then step right onto slab. Up 3 m to overhang and move rightwards (peg runners), across slab and around corner to niche. Peg relay.

2. 24 m Move left off ledge and up groove to block. Swing left onto ledge round corner, then traverse leftwards across sloping ledges for 3 m. Up wall to good horizontal crack, and move up leftwards (or rightwards) to belay on sloping ledge.

3. 23 m Up and over bulge (1 aid peg), and up to crack above. Traverse right 20' to wide crack splitting large block. Climb crack and relay above.

4. 30 m Traverse right along obvious line and make move round a corner. Ascend rib and move right into niche. Up wall to good ledge. Peg belay.

5. 37 m Up finishing gully moving rightwards at top. Seriousness: 3

Start a few feet to the left of 'Dog-Leg' to the left of a tree growing at the foot of the wall. Above is a short corner with a slab at the top.

1. 21 m Climb the corner and the slab to a crack above. Up this to a ledge below the crack steepening.

2. 15 m Continue up the crack to a ledge below an overhang.

3. 15 m Move left from the belay to gain twin cracks. Climb these and the continuation of the left crack, which bends round to the left; this leads to a series of ledges.

4. 22 m Move easily left along ledges for about 70 until they end in vegetation. Belay.

5. 25 m Up 30' (peg runner), move right to gain an earthy ledge. Swing left to a nest at the foot of the left groove. Climb this,(peg runner), then move right to finish pitch on ledge beneath gully.

6. 37 m Up gully to top. This route joins and finishes up 'Gimme Shelter' half way up Pitch 5. Seriousness: 3

Approximately 91 metres left of the Gold Rush Buttress there is a large grassy dog-leg formation, which leads up rightwards for about 15 m then back leftwards to the top. This particular area does not lend itself to easy route descriptions as the ground is so broken. There are ways of ascending the Dog-Leg where the standard rarely lies above Very Difficult, but few parties ever take the same way. It is unnecessary to describe a route in detail. Care should be taken as the rock is dubious in places and it should not be considered as a fast way down from the top of the Main Wall. Seriousness: 2

Start left of the Gold Rush Buttress below the right-hand point of 'Dog-Leg'. There is an obvious large terrace some 80' up the cliff at this point and the first pitch rises to this terrace from the right.

1. 25 m Move easily up past blocks then trend left and up to a place where a slab on the left can be reached. Up slab to terrace. Peg belay.

2. 22 m Walk to the right end of terrace to foot of steep crack. Ascend crack, making a move right at 5 m, then back into crack and up (peg runner), to poor stance on sloping ledge. Peg belays.

3. 18 m Move up slightly right then traverse right 3 m. Now move up leftwards to wall with good holds which leads to large ledge. Peg belays.

4. 21 m Move to right end of ledge then climb up behind pillar to its top. Ascend thin crack above pillar over a small overhang (3 aid pegs), then step left to hanging stance.

5. 43 m Move up rightwards to foot of fault which rises diagonally leftwards. Enter fault by way of steep wall on left, then follow to top. Seriousness: 5

Begin in the recess immediately left of the Gold Rush Buttress.

1. 34 m Mount the blocks with an awkward step to the left. Gain good ledge. Ascend poor rock to small ledge. Peg belays.

2. 18 m The broken groove is climbed with difficulty, then move left (1 aid move), to poor holds. Up these to start of good crack and small ledge belay.

3. 15 m Climb the twin cracks to below roofs (2 aid moves), to a hanging belay in right crack.

4. 15 m Move up to roof then work horizontally left (mainly aid), around corner and down slightly to small eyrie and belay.

5. 16 m Move up (1 aid nut) with difficulty and slightly left to groove. Up groove to belay on right.

6. 46 m Work left (1 aid move), over awkward step then left to corner. Up this with difficulty and join the final section of 'Time Slip'. Seriousness: 5

The Gold Rush Buttress has several fine offerings on its front. These routes all finish on top of the buttress, and descent is made with relative ease down the right-hand gully. Care should be exercised here as parts of this gully are loose. At the time of writing of this guide book there is only one finish up the steep headwall and that is taken by the route 'After the Gold Rush'. It goes without saying that the headwall section of this route could be added to any of the routes on the buttress frontal.

To the left of Gold Rush Buttress there is a smaller buttress. Directly above this, a grey wall is split by a plumb crack ending under a roof. The climb surmounts the smaller buttress from the left, ascends the crack then breaks through the roof and finishes above. Carry two or three BD #3 and same for #1, more is better since the crack can be slippery even when its dry (a scientific marvel).

1. Left of the smaller buttress, some large left-facing blocks can be seen. The larger of the blocks form an overhanging fist crack. Start below this. Avoid the crack by climbing to its left and up to the top. Belay directly below the plumb crack.

2. Climb the crack to the roof. It may be possible to break through the roof and belay above if gear and energy permit.

3. Climb the roof directly through the main crack. Exit to its right. Then meander right, then left towards a point on the left side of the prominent point jetting out on the skyline. Do not look for difficulties or placements for your gear. Note: After the Gold Rush exits to the right of the point mentioned above.

On the left of buttress there is a bush some 3 m up cliff with a good crack on right. The cliff is undercut beneath this crack.

1. 28 m Enter crack from left and follow to edge. Continue up overcoming some easy bulges and move right to belay ledge below wide crack.

2. 12 m Ascend wide prominent crack splitting wall on left. Belay on top of this pedestal.

3. 25 m Move up corner for 3 m then step left, up, and back rightwards and up to easy ground.

4. 18 m Easily to top of buttress. Seriousness: 2

This route takes the twin tramline cracks immediately left of the main wide crack of 'The Squeeker'. Start about 12 m right of 'After the Gold Rush' at a green tree growing some feet up the cliff.

1. 28 m Up groove then left to tree. Above tree then left along slab. Climb up to good belay below wide crack.

2. 30 m Ignore wide crack but step left to foot of twin cracks. Ascend these until blocks are reached on left. Move into left crack and continue to easier groove and belay above.

3. 19 m Move easily to top of buttress. Seriousness: 2

This route takes the obvious wide chimney crack in the middle of the buttress. The grade of the route varies greatly and is almost totally dependent on the width of the person. Start just left of 'After the Gold Rush' at a narrow undercut jam crack in a slight recess.

1. 25 m Up crack then right up ramp to groove/ corner. Climb this, step right at its top and up to belay below main feature.

2. 25 m Ascend wide crack and chockstone above. Finish up gully of 'Executioner'. Seriousness: 3

Start between 'After the Gold Rush' and 'Border Lord'. This route follows the handsome single crack to the left of the 'After the Gold Rush' tramline cracks.

1. 31 m Rising easy traverse leftwards to ledge system and belay below wide crack.

2. 37 m Step right across small gap (as for 'After the Gold Rush'), and move straight up to thin crack. Up this then right to the continuation of this crack. Up steeply to the 'guillotine', where a rest can be had off an in situ bong (rotten). Over this large flake till a move left can be made to a ledge.

3. Take the easy line up the gully to top of buttress. Seriousness: 3

Start below the right-hand green tree some 24 m right of 'After the Gold Rush'.

1. 31 m Up to tree. Climb slab above then step left onto arete. Up this to small triangular ledge and belays.

2. 25 m Ascend crack above for 12 m then move round left and swing into crack below grassy ledge. Up onto this and belay.

3. 12 m Climb right-hand crack over chocks to top. Seriousness: 2

Central section of the main wall.

Start below the Gold Rush Buttress. This route ascends the buttress and the steep headwall above. Start in the centre of buttress where there is a recess with white streaks at 9 m.

1. 24 m Up middle of recess then step right at 3 m. Straight up then move left around corner. Move up chimney to sloping ledges which are climbed until a traverse right can be made to good belays by block.

2. 44 m Wide step right from belay then round corner to foot of crack. Up crack then further right to tramline cracks. Up these to broken groove and continue to ridge.

3. 18 m Move easily to top of buttress.

4. 18 m Up wide crack behind and at 15 m move right to ledge and belay.

5. 31 m Move along ledge to tramline cracks which are climbed to roof. Over this (2 aid pegs), then free climb slab above. Move left to arete and belay 5 m left of this. Peg belays.

6. 18 m Move left then up broken rock to crack. Belay on top of this.

7. 31 m Move left up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 5

To the right of Gold Rush Buttress there is a large grassy terrace. At the right end there is a black recess. Start left of recess.

1. 23 m The left edge of the recess gives access to a traverse right to a detached flake. Belay at balanced blocks on right end of flake.

2. 23 m A smooth wall leads up for 5 m then a delicate traverse (peg runner) leads to a groove on right which gives access to a long grassy Ledge. Traverse right along this to a belay below an overhanging crack in white rock.

3. 18 m Up crack (1 aid peg) to a good ledge. At the far end of ledge a right-angled corner leads to a larger ledge.

4. 12 m Along ledge then climb 3 m to next ledge, then walk back along it until it ceases to become a walk.

5. 34 m Traverse left along some bottomless corners to a honeycombed wall at 11 m. Up this with difficulty to a sentry-box. Up more easily to overhanging corner. Climb this to top. Seriousness: 4

To the left of 'Centaur' and about 30 m up there is an obvious roof with a white streaked wall beneath it. The first pitch of 'Poseidon' reaches this wall from the left. Start about 15 m left of 'Centaur' at an obvious corner to the right of an obsidian capped pedestal.

1. 27 m Move up broken rock then climb groove to reach obvious small tree. Step right and climb another groove to slab. Traverse 20' right to belay on white wall beneath roof. Peg belay.

2. 15 m Move right to corner. Step down and cross steep wall, then up rightwards to broken ground. Up this to belay below steepening. Peg belay in place.

3. 25 m Move right to corner. Climb narrow edge 10' left of corner and up to flake. Step left off flake to slab. Move left a few feet then up crack and traverse left across another slab to gain ledge. Cross wide gap and pull up to higher ledge beneath chimney crack. Peg belay in place.

4. 12 m Climb chimney to belay ledge. Peg belay.

5. 21 m Step down right to sloping ledge 1 aid peg). Now move up to square ledges on right edge (1 aid peg). Up easily to start of thin crack. Climb this (all aid) for 50' to ledge on right. Peg belay.

6. 25 m Up right crack (3 aid nuts), then step left to ledge. Climb up easily to big ledges beneath the headwall. Peg belay.

7. 37 m The way through the headwall is up a break to the left where there are perched blocks covered in bird dirt. Move left to gain blocks (peg runner). Up onto these then move up rightwards past two unstable blocks to gain slab. Up slab making rightwards, then back left to easier ground. Belay in cave. Finish by walking off to the right. (The last part of Pitch 7 joins 'Centaur' at the end of the final traverse of 'Centaur'.) Seriousness: 4

To the left of 'The Zebra Wall' there is a grey buttress which is only obvious when viewed directly below. At its foot is a prominent rock pedestal with a cave behind. This route ascends the buttress. Start left of cave.

1. 34 m Move up 2 m to a ledge on the right. Now climb up leftwards (1 aid peg) to ledge. Traverse right along grassy ledge for about 12 m and climb a crack just right of large detached block. Continue up to belay.

2. 18 m Move right onto arete and climb easily over blocks and wide cracks to good ledge beneath vertical crack.

3. 24 m Up crack and move through overhang into widening chimney (peg runner). Chimney up then swing right into crack. Ascend steepening crack until a step right can be made onto ledge. Now move up leftwards to good ledge. Peg belays.

4. 15 m Climb crack behind ledge then move left underneath overhang (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg) into groove. Hand-traverse right to a ledge. Nut belay.

5. 43 m Traverse right 6 m then ascend to chimney. Climb up this and follow vegetated gully to huge belay stance.

6. 46 m Move right onto block and climb up rightwards to gain groove. Move up until a traverse left can be made (peg runner). Traverse for 9 m then up rightwards (peg runner), and finish off left. (The belay at the top of Pitch 5 and the first 9 m of Pitch 6 are shared with 'The Zebra Wall'). Seriousness: 4

About 30 m left of 'Olympian' there is an obvious large grassy terrace about 30 m up the cliff. Start slightly right of this.

1. 37 m Climb wall bearing diagonally left to a grassy terrace and belay below prominent crack which is capped by a roof at 12 m.

2. 37 m Climb crack with aid then up behind roof to exit above chimney and belay on sloping ledge. Used No 4 & 5 BD cams

3. 27 m Climb slab on left to foot of crack. Up crack with aid. Poor gear and loose rock.

4. 15 mClimb crack then left to ledge. Up left to belay. Loose rock

5. 46 m Descend to big ledge on left to terrace. Along this to vegetated gully and up to large chockstone belay on top of pillar.

6. 18 m Climb up right by crack to belay in niche.

7. 34 m Climb thin crack up on right with aid. Seriousness: 4

To the left of the highest overhanging section of the Main Wall is an obvious large flake. It is probably one of the most prominent features on the cliff and is located some 30 m below the top, with the shadow of a wide chimney on its right side and a green tree growing from its lip. The route starts directly below this flake at the foot of an obvious corner crack with a bulge at 15 m.

Often done with aid on the crux pitch, then HVS A1.

1. 31 m Climb wall on right then cross left to a crack at 9 m. Move up crack and surmount bulge to ledge. Climb tramline cracks to belay ledge .

2. 31 m Move up easily to steep wall. Climb wall then move left to crack. Up this and over protruding flake into chimney which is climbed to ledge.

3. 18 m Easily up rising traverse left to a large cave.

4. 25 m Now a long traverse right begins across ledges to crack. Climb crack to big ledge.

5. 21 m Along ledge to steep left crack which is climbed free for 12 m to ledge.

6. 25 m Move right and up chimney to groove. Climb this to ledge below flake.

7. 24 m Moving down right turn the flake and enter chimney which is climbed to top.

8. 15 m Rising traverse left to finish.

Seriousness: 3

Start as for 'Olympian'.

1. 20 m Up 'Olympian' for 5 meters then right 3 meters to crack. up this which has a protuding triangular flake to belay on square ledge.

2. 46 m Right to beneath large block. Climb up to it then up 37 meters (all aid) until it is possible to move left to a large ledge.

3. 12 m Move up slightly right to gain 'Olympian' at Pitch 5.

Seriousness grade: 3

The big crack system some 30 m right of 'Olympian' on the left side of a large bottomless buttress. The climb enters the obvious crack on the fourth pitch. Before this the route takes a less obvious crack system slightly left. Start about 30 m right of 'Olympian', below the left end of a line of overhangs at 8 m. A small pillar leads up to a slab below the overhang.

1. 18 m Up pillar to slab. Move left and up to overhang. Over this (1 aid nut), and up to good ledge.

2. 9 m Ignore the crack above. Move right to next crack, which is climbed to top of pillar (3 aid nuts) ,

3. 25 m Step right and up, then back left into shallow groove. Ascend the crack on the right side of chute which goes completely free, to a small but good belay.

4. 30 m Attain the flake on right, then descend its right edge until the wide crack system on the pillar can be reached. Climb this (1 aid nut), until the rock deteriorates. Continue up the crack then step right and up to belay on top of pillar.

5. 23 m The corner crack above is ignored. Traverse right instead on poor rock to a ledge. Hove further right to good corner crack. Up this to ledge. Hove left and up two steps to a ledge with a twin crack system above it.

6. 23 m Up the twin cracks to a resting place on right. Up left then traverse left across top of groove to ledge. Follow ramp leading left (3 aid pegs), to small ledge and belay.

7. 40 m Up 5 m (1 aid peg) to big blocks then traverse right and up to sling. Using sling descend a few feet and traverse right to groove. Up this (aid pegs) to exit right. 10 pegs were used for aid on this pitch. Seriousness: 6

Some excellent climbing leads to just below the final pitch of Andromeda, followed by a rather disappointing traverse to base of the final Olympian chimney which is taken to the top. Start just left of centre of the rockfall, where a pillar leads up to the only break in the roof line at 20 m. Thin blades may be useful. Climb left-facing flake crack for 5 m, then move right and down to climb short left-facing corner on right of the pillar, to ledge (18 m, VI+). Go up crack, hard, to move right at 3 m to great left-facing (Moac) corner. Take this to ledge, move left and low to jam up a crack to slight niche and rest before a vicious bulge with semi-hanging stance above (25 m). Now left and down to base of rotten gully; climb this to ledge and belay at top of Andromeda chimney (15 m, IV). Follow Andromeda over poor rock for 5 m to a ledge; make a long step left to a steep crack - the continuation of gully below. At top of this go left to ledge (10 m, VI+). Bridge and chimney up left side of huge detached pillar (14 m, VI) then follow Andromeda for 4 m to stance and belay on left (VII-). Traverse left with occasional tension from pegs to fine stance and belay (15 m, V+, A0). Move up with peg for aid to gain a smooth slab, then left to a wall leading to the Olympian chimney where it becomes a scramble (10 m, V+, A0). Now follow Olympian.

Above the fig tree the rockfall has created an area of grey rock capped at 25 m by a band of roofs. The right-most roof has a crack to its right. Start 4 m left of a point directly below crack line, just right of rockfall centre. Climb dirty rock to a groove and follow this for 5 m. Step right across an arete to base of another groove; take this to a roof and move right to a vast semi-detached flake, obvious from below. Follow the fine crack above (VI+) to right end of the roofs (25 m). Continue up crack (VI+) for some 7 m, make a thin traverse right to the base of another corner/groove system and climb this to ledges on left. An easy chimney leads to a big ledge (25 m). Take the wall immediately above (V) to gain a slab, traverse left past a dirty crack and round a rotten arete to a comfortable ledge (15 m). Step back right to left side of a great tapering pillar (Shark's Tooth). Climb this then a crack. Above a steep bulge, move left across a steep wall (VI) and mantelshelf onto an excellent ledge (15 m). From left end of ledge move up awkwardly to base of a corner. Climb this (use ledge on right with hidden layaway above, VI) to easier ground and a fine semi-hanging belay 3 m directly above corner (10 m.) Traverse right below overhangs using tension from 2 pegs in place and one bolt. Climb white ledges with bulges in between to easier rock and a fine belay on right (VI-, 20 m). Go up to a ledge below a roof; traverse left below a steep wall (various runners including thread) to reach highest ledge used by roosting birds (peg in place). Reverse down and move left to another ledge system. From a peg in place move left across a dark red wall to an arete; climb this on better rock to a ramp trending right, hence the top (25 m).

Approximately 30 m left of 'Stiletto' and about 30 m up, there is a prominent wide crack splitting a brown wall beneath a belt of overhangs. This wide crack is entered by a rising traverse in from the right. Start beneath the crack and slightly right at a recess.

1. 28 m Move up 3 m then traverse left across grooves to a series of blocks. Climb up these making for an obvious groove directly above, which is capped by a vertical narrow crack. Climb groove, (peg runner), and 6 m up crack (3 aid nuts) to a hanging belay 3 m below where crack finishes.

2. 28 m Move a few feet up crack, then tension leftwards off a high nut to gain foot of wide crack. Climb crack (1 aid nut at 30'), to top and belay on sloping ledge on left. Chain anchor in place.

3. 27 m This pitch is entirely aid. Surmount large overhang by groove up on right. Numerous thin pegs and four bolts lead to the lip of overhang, then move leftwards up wall on bad pegs to belay ledge. Bolt belay and dubious pegs.

4. 43 m Move left up ramp to wall with crack. Up this (2 aid pegs), then up slightly right to niche (peg runners). Move left to broken rock and ascend until an awkward move leads right into a groove. Up groove (5 aid pegs), to a hanging belay 6 m below top of groove.

5. 27 m Up to top of groove (3 aid pegs and 1 aid nut), then swing out left onto steep broken rock above. Finish rightwards. Seriousness: 6

Just right of Zeus the overhanging walls have been climbed by a serious route: Rocky Horror Show (VI+, A2). 30m right of Zeus the Central Wail is broken by an obvious line of weakness finishing in a vegetated gully and climbed by Stilleto; this starts directly below in a steep groove left of a grey column. Andrew Wielochowski said: "Detailed description is in MCK climbing log book 1986 ish? Also general blurb about it in the MCK bulletin no 80. I never wrote it up more as I did not think anyone would be keen to repeat it."

Some 18 m left of Stiletto and about 20 m up the cliff, there is a big obvious down-pointing grey flake wedged between two columns. The climb makes for this flake from the right. Start about 24 m left of Stiletto, to the left of a bush-filled groove where a thin crack splits the wall.

1. 28 m Climb thin crack for 6 m to where it bulges. Move up bulge (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg), to where its possible to make a wide step right to small ledges. Up slightly then move left (1 aid peg)[freed], to good ledge by grass clump. Ascend corner (peg runner), then step left to small ledge. Now climb over bulge above to foot of good crack. Climb crack for 5 m then hand-traverse left and descend to big ledge on top of flake.

2. 28 m Move up cracks above right side of ledge for a few feet then climb wall on left to good ledge. Move left along this ledge to small groove and climb this (peg runner), to bulges. Make obvious traverse right across wall to big groove. Climb this, avoiding prominent pointed flake [this was stood on when freed], to overhang. Surmount overhang (3 aid pegs), to slab above. Up slab until steep wall is reached (peg runner), then traverse right across slabs for 6 m and descend into groove. Peg belays set up high. [All freed]

3. 30 m Traverse right to left corner of big wall. Climb corner for 9 m (2 peg runners), then ascend rightwards (4 aid pegs), to obvious vegetated ledges on top of wall. Peg belays around corner on Stiletto. [Freed, no pegs removed. About AUS 20-21 grade of difficulty on the traverse. At the start of traverse move high on the block(left side) then stem across (a full split maybe required on this pitch)]

4. 9 m Move up final section of Pitch 3 of Stiletto to final stance of that route.

5. 37 m Climb last pitch of Stiletto. Seriousness: 3

The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.

1. 30 m Climb crack until a move right can be made onto a ledge. Move along this and belay in niche up on right.

2. 30 m Up slightly then step right on buttress and up to ledge. Move up left then back right to steep black wall which is climbed to belay at triangular flake.

3. 25 m Up ramp and ridge to belay below overhangs.

4. 37 m (THIS PITCH HAS CHANGED) From in situ belay peg, traverse 2 m left to break leading up through overhangs. Now traverse right across slabs to finishing gully. Seriousness: 3

Right end section of the Main Wall.

Start about 12 m right of Stiletto at thin crack.

1. 40 m Up crack for 9 m. Over blocks to continuation of crack. Up this and move slightly right to ledge. Climb wide crack above then left around corner to another thin crack. Up this and left to ledge.

2. 40 m Traverse right 6 m then up groove to easier rock and broken terrace. Move right around corner and up thin crack to a steep shattered wall. Up this to recess and belay. Peg belays.

3. 40 m Up and left then straight up to obvious line leading to shattered cave. Traverse left for 9 m from cave then up wall to top. Seriousness: 3

Start about 15 m left of 'Isis' where a prominent bulging narrow grey column rises some 12 m. The first pitch ascends the obvious groove immediately right of this column.

1. 25 m Move up easily for 9 m to small roof. Step left around roof (1 aid nut), and up groove to top of column.

2. 40 m Move to ledge on right. Straight up to overhang. Climb overhang (peg runner low down and 1 aid nut on lip), into steep corner. Up corner 5 m (peg runner), then move left and up to ledge. Move right and swing around good edge and pull up to easier ground.

3. 30 m Move right round corner and onto big vegetated ledges. Traverse right 15 m along this until good cracks can be seen above. Up this to good belay ledge on left. (Same as last belay on 'Isis').

4. 30 m Move left 9 m to large broken corner. Finish up this. Seriousness: 3

Start 25 m left of Vertigo there is an area with a band of overhangs at 40 m. Below the overhangs there is a prominent white streaked wall. This route starts up the steep left crack of this wall.

1. 39 m. Move up leftwards to join crack above a bush at 6 m. Climb crack completely free to a hanging belay 2 m beneath roof.

2. 9 m. To the right is a steep slab. The problem is to reach the small ledge on the other side of the slab. Gain peg up on the right then tension or pendulum across to ledge.

3. 15 m. This is mostly aid spaced out by difficult free moves. Step right to corner then up to roof. Work right to groove then up to second roof. Move right to slab and belay 3m further right.

4. 24 m. Move up through vegetated area and slightly leftwards to large sloping ledge.

5. 36 m. Climb up steep wall behind ledge (peg runner), then move right to easier ground. Traverse left 6m then up and back right to steeper ground with prominent cracks. Move up right crack then left to ledge and belay.

6. 30 m. Climb up and move right underneath large block to gain finishing crack. Up this to top. This final pitch is the same as the last pitch of Vertigo.

Variation: An alternative to Pitch 3 has been climbed which involves less aid than the original pitch. 3. 25 m. Move up with aid from a peg to arftte above left, and climb shattered crack above to roof. Move left and up to second roof. Move right round this (2 aid pegs) and (1 aid nut), move left and climb vegetated wall above (2 aid nuts). Move right to belay. Pitch 4 of the original route is omitted after this.

Seriousness: 3

Start some 15 m left of Vertigo where broken rock leads up to an obvious finger of rock at 10 m.

1. 27 m. The finger is reached by a rising line from the right. From the top of finger step up left then move right to niche. A steep narrow crack above leads to a good jug, from which two hard moves are made up to groove. Climb groove (2 aid pegs, 2 peg runners), then free to belay on sloping ledge below overhang.

2. 25 m. Move up left to obvious ledges then up right over grass bulge to niche. Climb overhang (2 aid pegs), then move right along sloping ledge 2 m to slab. Move up slab (peg runner), then move up left to belay on grassy ledges.

3. 38 m. Traverse right 6 m into vegetated groove. Up this to obvious corner. Swing right onto arete and move up rightwards making for prominent tree. Belay here.

4. 30 m. Directly behind the tree there is a small cave. Take the headwall above this. Good holds lead up rightwards for 6m. Move up left 6 m and surmount bulge. Now up lichen rock and traverse right to obvious pointed flake. Step right, then back left and up to top. Seriousness: 3

This is the bulging crackline left of 'Vertigo'. Start about 12 m left of 'Vertigo' at short corner beneath prominent tree which grows some 18 m up cliff. Climb corner to ledge on right. Move up good cracks which lead to widening. Ascend this (3 aid nuts), then move left to ledge. Up and left again to obvious tree. Abseil off tree. Seriousness: 3

Start about 12 m left of 'Quo Vadis' where there is a steep buttress with fine cracks splitting it.

1. 40 m. Climb up left side of semi-detached column until it is possible to stand on top of it. Move rightwards over wall to foot of crack which is climbed direct to belay.

2. 42 m. Move up corner to overhang. Over this to flake then move up leftwards to grassy terrace.

3. 40 m. Move left to obvious corner crack, which is entered with difficulty and followed to top. (On the first ascent of this route Pitch 1 was done with aid. The first free ascent of this pitch was done on 2/1/77 by Iain Allan and Dave MacMullan ) Seriousness: 3

This is the crack/groove some 6m right of the first pitch of 'Vertigo'. Move to foot of groove from the right. Climb the main crack which becomes easier with height. Move left at top to join 'Vertigo' at ledge at the top of first pitch. Seriousness: 2

Start just left of Quo Vadis where an obvious white barked tree grows approximately 6m up. Scramble up and belay here.

1. 18 m. Move up columns and cracks on right to a good ledge.

2. 18 m. Move up left to steep wall. Gain wall (2 aid pegs). Step left from pegs and continue to groove. Ascend groove for 8 m to belay on narrow ledges beneath bulge.

3. 30 m. Ascend steep crack which leads to bulging overhang. Move over this (2 aid pegs, 1 aid nut), onto steep ground. Straight up for 6m until it is possible to make right for a ledge. Peg belay.

4. The climb now moves rightwards to join Pitch 4 of Quo Vadis, which is followed to the top. Seriousness: 3

First climb done on the main wall (excluding Dog Leg). The climb starts from the highest point of the base of the grey cliffs. At 30 m above and to the left is a prominent green tree. Two old rusty pegs mark the start.

1. 25 m. Move diagonally right to a crack which is followed until a short traverse left leads to a good stance and belay.

2. 25 m. Step left and up a steep corner to bulge. Over this (aid peg), then step right and up to sloping ledge beneath overhangs. Peg belay.

3. 15 m. More left to good hold on the edge of slab, then further across to the steep rib which is climbed to easier ground. Up right to belays.

4. 30 m. Climb broken rock bearing rightwards and up to the big grassy terrace.

5. 30 m. Up leftwards to a little shelf and a leftward sloping slab. Climb slab and a short wall to ledges and flakes. Move left to recess.

6. 6 m. Move up rightwards and finish above. Seriousness: 3

Between Beelzebub and Quo Vadis there is a prominent big corner. The route climbs up this keeping on the wall to the left.

1. 37 m. Start up the corner and work left when forced to. A high peg is used to pendulum further left into a crack below a flake. Up this and onto flake (two aid pegs). Move right with difficulty to a crack which is ascended past a block. Up the corner and move left to belay. Peg belay.

2. 25 m. Move up directly behind belay (1 aid peg) and gain the corner crack. Move left into niche, then left to slab. Descend this and move round corner on left and into slot. Up this to a grassy ledge. Step right and up to stance and belay on right.

3. 30 m. Move left slightly and up steep rock. Move right and gain ledge from where one can move right (peg runner), round a corner and up slabs to grassy terrace.

4. 42 m. Move left and finish up the last pitch of Quo Vadis. Seriousness: 3

About 15 m left of Stage Fright there is a roof some 10 m off the ground. Start here. Scrambling from the right brings one to a good ledge and belay 5 m below the roof.

1. 37 m. Move left to crack below left side of roof. Up this and over bulge to holds. Traverse left along block ledges to recess. Move left across wall on small holds to buttress with a good wide crack in it. Up this to good ledge beneath the overhangs. Peg belay.

2. 24 m. Descend right from ledge and traverse far right across slab. Back left and up groove to overhang. Up this (1 aid peg), then wide step left and around flake to ledge. Up a few feet then left to crack which is followed to grassy terrace.

3. 30 m. Traverse left 6m to break. Up this 3 m then move right on good holds and up to ledge system. Move right to blocks below wall. Up this to niche. Peg belay. 4) 12 m. Move up left to ledge (peg runner), then step right and finish above. Seriousness: 3

This route ascends the obvious tramline cracks about 30 m left of The Devil Drives. The left crack is wider and is capped by a triangular block.

1. 27 m. Move up to the foot of cracks and into right hand crack when possible. Up this for 12 m until a move left can be made into the wider crack. Up this to belay on block on left (peg belay).

2. 27 m. Step right to thin crack and up to roof. Move right under roof (1 aid peg), then lower off nut to gain obvious crack low down on the steep right wall. Up crack (1 aid nut), then step left to corner (1 aid peg), and sloping ledge. Up onto large ledge above and belay. Freed by H Barber - Step right to thin crack and continue traversing right to niche below headwall.

3. 28 m. Move up then traverse left around corner and descend slightly to ramp. Follow this to steeper wall which is climbed to broken ground. Scramble off right. Seriousness: 5

At the extreme right end of the Main Wall there is an obvious corner where the cliff bends sharply into Entrance Wall. This route makes its way up to the left of the corner. Start below the prominent nose by a large detached block.

1. 25 m. Climb onto block then up steep crack to ledge. Follow crack above until it is possible to step right, then up blocks to good belay.

2. 25 m. Climb above belay and step right to ledge. Now up to higher ledge, from where a traverse leads left for 5 m to a crack. Up this and belay on a detached block. Peg belay.

3. 30 m. Straight up slabs above for 10 m to recess (peg runner). Descend a few feet then traverse left across steep wall to crack. Up this to ledge then finish up broken rock to the right. Seriousness: 3

1. Start 5 m right of Devil Drives, in a left-facing crack. Jam up crack up to small roof. Step left and traverse for 3 m to enter a vertical gully. Up this and left to reach first belay of Devil Drives. Up this to belay in corner under steep grey crack.

2. Lay-back and jam up crack, up over the protruding flake. Continue up easier to the end of grey rock to base of red shattered wall. Move left and up the final section of Devil Drives.

Great route with spicy bits. The climb takes the wide crack to the right of Death-Proof, then shares a pitch and belay with Devil Drives and finishes up to the left.

1. This pitch follows the wide/fist crack. You can start with few moves on the thin crack just to the right of the wide crack. Climb over the bulge and into the alcove. Either belay here or combine pitch 1 and 2.

2. Take a step left from the alcove onto the arrete (you're now above Death-Proof) then straight up to below the small overhangs, traverse left and up on blocks until you reach a good belay with a few cracks.

3. Go up over a few bulges for 3-4m then traverse left for 3 meters, then up a steep block and crack (this is the same pitch as Devil Drives). Belay at the rusty pegs.

4. Go up the slab for 4m, then take a left around the corner to a foot traverse, along this for about 2m which brings you onto a small block (gear), over the bulge above you and into the crack which is followed to the top. (This pitch was climbed by Emmanuel a while before but he can't recall who with)

This is the right end of main wall after it takes a sharp bend. It's not actually the wall near the entrance, that's Fisher's Cliff. Entrance wall offers good climbing and the rock is reasonably sound. The best routes are in the centre area of the crag.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start at the foot of the ill-defined gully leading diagonally up to the right. This part of the cliff is obvious as approximately 30 m over to the right, there is another gully, (the line of Deluge), leading diagonally up to the left.

1. 18 m Climb the corner crack past an awkward bulge at 9 m to a tall rock pedestal.

2. 12 m Climb the crack between the mail wall and the pedestal. Go over the top of the pedestal and descend a little to belay.

3. 31 m Easier now, traverse right and climb a corner to a broken terrace. Climb into an overhang groove-cum-ramp and follow this right-handed to the top.

Start 5 m right of Kindergarden Grooves, and follow an obvious line of cracks running more or less straight up the front of the buttress.

1. 18 m Climb the crack as far as a bulge, move slightly right and up over vegetated blocks. Easy rock leads to a recess up on the left to belay.

2. 12 m Climb out to the left, using a jam, the up the ensuing slabs to the bottom of a steep crack with a large chockstone in the middle. Climb this to the broken rake halfway up the cliff to belay.

3. 24 m Traverse right over easy rocks across the back of gully. Climb this then traverse right across the sloping slab for 5 m. Up nose tending right to the final wall.

Start 5 m right of Gasper Vagrant.

1. 18 m Climb up over grassy bulges then left and climb crack to a ledge. Make a difficult, slightly descending traverse to another ledge below a chockstone crack. This is climbed to a ledge belay.

2. 37 m Climb an easy chimney (here the climb joins Kindergarden Grooves), then move right over slab to an independent line, and then up the steepening wall to a sandy ledge.

3. 6 m Move up slightly and traverse right along sloping ledges, then climb the steep wall above.

Start about 61 m right of The Gasper, at a diagonal line running from right to left to an obvious exit.

1. 21 m On a corner go up directly to reach a prominent slab slanting left. Either follow the slab to its finish, or go onto a rib on its left and then rejoin the top of the slab where there is a fine pinnacle belay.

2. 31 m Now trend diagonally left on the easiest line and take the weakness line to the top.

About 30 m left of Phoenix there is an obvious tree growing some 9 m up with a prominent white root hanging to the ground. About 9 m left of this feature there is a big corner leading to overhangs at 15 m.

1. 15 m Climb crack to sloping ledge beneath overhangs. Peg belay.

2. 12 m Move up to good handrail then surmount overhang, (1 nut and 3 pegs). Up arete and step right to good belay. Nut belay.

3. 31 m Step right and work generally right-wards to obvious wide finishing crack. Up this and over bulges above. Severity: 2

Start 9 m left of Phoenix.

1. 34 m Climb the crack past flakes and a small bush at 5 m, to the bottom of a chimney. A ramp leads diagonally right from the top of the chimney to a good ledge. Climb the blocks and arete to the top of flake.

2. 21 m Up the steep wall moving right to the top. Severity: 3

About 6 m right of Medicine Man, there is a crack that moves through a series of bulges. Around the first bulge from the left. Then up the second bulge pulling on gear. Continue up, exit on the right of the crack system.

About 137 m from the right-hand end of Entrance Wall there is a triangular-shaped buttress with its apex at half height of the cliff. On the left section of the buttress is a fig tree with a white trunk which almost reaches the ground. Start by tree.

1. 34 m Climb up to the tree and continue up the slabs to a roof at 14 m. Step right to a niche and gain the ledge 3 m up on the right. Just left of the ledge is a groove. Climb the right arete for a few feet until one can step right and follow the weakness to a ledge. Back left to good spike belay.

2. 27 m Follow the arete on the left to ledges and move back right to two deep holes. Step right and follow the crack to where another crack runs off right. The right-hand branch leads to easy ground. Severity: 2

Start to the right of Phoenix at a prominent ragged crack which runs up the buttress just left of the pinnacle peak.

1. Climb the crack to the pinnacle. Belay (Nuts were used for direct aid to enter the crack but shouldn't be necessary now the crack is cleaned). 2)Descend and traverse left onto Phoenix.

2. As for Phoenix.

About 18 m right from where the rock turns from yellow to red is a tree at 9 m. Start at blocks just right of the tree.

1. 14 m Climb over the blocks to below a tree just left of a wide crack. Use the tree to gain ledges and a thread belay.

2. 23 m Up the the level of the roof and then left to an excellent thread. Straight up to the start of a crack and traverse easily left to the foot of twin cracks. These lead to a spike belay.

3. 15 m Crux. THe steep crack leads, with a sling for aid, to a spike and niche (peg runner). Use a peg above the niche to swing left into a shallow V groove. This leads to ledges with a chockstone and peg belay.

4. 13 m Easy climbing leads left and then back right to finish directly above last belay.

Start as per Hiraeth (about 18 m right of Phoenix Pinnacle where the rock turns from yellow to red is the remnants of a tree at 9 m).

Fine climbing on gear up to number four BD cam.

1. Climb over blocks to below a tree and just left of a wide crack. Use tree to gain ledges. This is where Hiraeth goes up and left. Continue up and right over easier broken terrain to a corner 8 m below a large roof.

2. Climb corner to roof which is surmounted direct. Step right and then back left onto sloping ledge. Continue slightly left until a crack on the right provides the airy finishing moves.

Start about 1.5 m right of My Last Sigh in a hand-jam crack. Climb crack to top of pillar. Continue up, moving right over broken terrain to the ledge at the base of a clean vertical crack in a recess. Surmount ledge and then up crack. Continue up to overhang, through this and up stem right to crack. Up this and finish left.

(not sure of exact location) Entrance Wall, right end. The climb is located a little to the right of the mini stone amphitheatre. Start at the bottom of a large vertical slab with a visible crack splitting its middle. Reach the the top of the pedestal and access the crack/corner with a bouldery move. Alex has cleaned off several decades of bird crap with a broom attached to a stick, add a grade if it has built back up. At the top of the slab, delicately head left under the block, then straight up on steep rock. Towards the end, a short (steep) detour on the right avoids a couple of meters of soft rock. 60 m ropes are necessary for a solid belay at the top. Brilliant climb on great rock!

This is the long low cliff to the right of Fischer's Tower as one enters Hell's Gate from the Elsa gate. The best climbing on this crag is at the right end where fine crack problems exist. These climbs range from 9 m to 18 m in length and have bolted anchors (placed by the British military some years ago). The rock above these cracks deteriorates quickly. All the cracks in this area have been climbed (led) free. It is an excellent area for beginners and when the weather is unsettled.

Near the left hand end of the cliff a grassy gully runs up the wall, and from its top a rampline runs right-handed up the wall. Start at a tree at the foot of a grassy gully just right of the top of the bay. Up the gully to a pale wall. Right up cracked slab onto ramp. Walk up ramp. Take top wall by crack along extension of rampline. Not a very satisfying climb.

The section of Fischers Cliff perpendicularly opposite Fischer's Tower is probably the highest section of clean rock. Gashing this face is a long diagonal cave which The Chute follows. This climb is to the left of The Chute at an obvious crack along a break in the overhangs. Start a few feet further left at a peg crack running up then left to a niche. (Painted "S").

1. 11 m Climb this crack to a niche.

2. 15 m From the niche step right onto rib. Climb this until it is possible to step right across a shallow groove to another rib. Ascend this, (peg runner), then step right again and up to a belay below the overhangs.

3. 27 m Just right of the belay is a square cut groove going through the overhangs. Climb this then left at the next overhang, over some vegetation and then easily up broken rocks to the top.

Start left of The Chute where a narrow crack breaks through the bulge.

1. 23 m Climb crack then move left and continue up crack for 12 m. Move left and up wall to belay in niche. Peg belay.

2. 31 Just right of the belay is a square cut groove through the overhang. Climb this then left at the next overhang. Up broken rock to top.

Immediately opposite Fischer's Tower there is an area of clean rock, where there is a prominent diagonal cave. Below this feature there is a shallow square cut chimney at ground level. (Painted C).

1. 21 m Up the chimney then step right by good hold. Cross left above chimney into crackline leading to bottom of chute. Up to the top of chute. Tension left from a peg to good ledge and peg belay. There is a peg in place at the end of Pitch 1, where most parties abseil off (as of the old guidebook).

2. 34 m Step left and enter bulging crack. Up cave and exit left. Climb wall above. Severity: 5

Just to the right of the crag's highest part, the cliff dips. Start at foot directly beneath the dip and to the right of a purple-coloured rock. (Arrow and painted "A"). The route ascends the groove to the left and beneath point of roof. Climb to foot of roof using one peg for aid. Now peg round right point of roof and up groove to the left. Peg belay at top of this groove. Now hard moves can be made up to the left. Peg right, where a pull up can be made to a sloping ledge. Now move up ledge and step right to good ledge. Climb easier rock above to a prominent flake and step right into vegetated crack. Now climb up to top, an etrier being used to surmount final overhang.

Start 18 m right of Arual at some large blocks just left of some bushes. Sling visible at 6 m.

1. 18 m (Crux) From the top of the highest boulder move up and swing onto good ledges (peg runner). Gain the slab on the left and traverse left to a peg belay about 13 right of a chimney line. Peg for aid in place.

2. 18 m Straight up behind the belay to a peg in place which is used to swing left into the chimney. Follow this for a few feet and then traverse easily right to blocks. (Just right of start).

3. 15 m Gain the bird's nest to the right, marked white, (thread runner). Traverse horizontally left for 5 m then straight up finishing directly above start.

Start 46 m right of the last route in a bay where the lowest half is conspicuously white and the top a crumbling overhang. Scratched "S".

1. 11 m Climb 2 m up a yellow vertical arete, traverse 2 m right, climb groove then traverse back 2 m left and up 3 m to a good stance and thread belay.

2. 23 m Traverse left 6 m along a ledge which is a continuation of the stance, then diagonally up and left by a bush to a shallow cave. From the cave finish to top of crag by easy but rather loose scrambling up diagonally right or on sounder but more difficult rock up to the left.

Start 14 m Left of Bloodline, (chipped "S").

1. 17 m A short crack leads to a niche on the left. Exit right to a thread runner and traverse diagonally left across slabs to below a crack which leads to a ledge and peg belay.

2. 22 m Traverse left for 9 m until a perched block is reached. Climb straight up for 1.5 m then diagonally right until one can move back left to a ledge and belay.

3. 6 m Easy ground.

Start 6 m left of Bloodline on polished slabs below a jagged crack filled with sticks leading to a small hole containing a bee-hive. This route was climbed by direct aid from sticks pounded into the crack by Dorobo honey gatherers sometime late in 1971. It is awaiting its first graded ascent.

Start at a yellow wall where the cliff bulges out from a blunt rib. Painted "BO". Climb ramp to steep wall and peg up crack for 15 m to ledge in notch. Continue pegging over roof and traverse right 3 m to ledge. Belay. Now free to top, first right and then straight up.

12 m right of Bloodline is a shallow cave, dry and quite suitable for bivouac in the rains. 30 m further right is another shallow cave, tetrahedral-shaped. Along this wall are a number of very technical boulder problems, most of which remain dry during rains and provide an interesting diversion in bad weather.

Start about 180 m right of Bloodline, below a tree at 3 m, Painted "DR". Up to tree then left to block ledge. A peg is now necessary to move up and over to the right into a crack by a flake. Move up rightwards towards broken gully and then the wall on the left end of a large grassy ledge. There is a crack above and a buttress on the left; climb this buttress to the top.

Start 12 m right of Desperation Row on a black ledge below a widening crack, chipped "T". Climb the crack, peg for protection. Step right across top of pillar and swing right onto block across groove. Move up left into corner groove and swing up to exit left. Up ramp to belay. Abseil from pinnacle left or finish up easily.

Start in a corner to the right of Trapeze, painted "O".

1. 25 m Climb the corner and move 3 m right to a broken corner. Up this corner over a series of three short walls and through a notch onto the band of broken rock and earth. Straight up to ledge and block belay.

2. 35 m. Traverse left along ledge 18 m to a flake chimney. Up this and scramble up gully above to finish.

Start 8 m left of The Tish on a large block.

1. 8 m Up crack using 5 pegs.

2. Move right 1.5 m then free up to large crack between main wall and loose looking boulder on block, for 4 m.

3. From good stance on block climb up to overhang on pegs. Up dirty crack for 5 m until a scramble over loose rock can be made to belay on pinnacle. Climb direct to top for 24 m.

Start a couple of metres right of O, by a painted "T". Climb wall on left of pillar by using a nut sling to where the rock bulges and the wall on the right has large cracks. Move up this wall by making a long leg stretch over onto a block ledge. Traverse left to foot of crack mentioned at the end of Desperation Row. Climb this to top.

Start 6 m right of The Tish, where a sharp-edged crack splits a south-facing wall 2 m out from a corner. Beware of loose rocks in the top of crack.

Start 6 m right of Linament in a shallow square cut groove, chipped "G". Climb straight up the groove to a tree at 18 m. Belay and abseil.

Start just right of Grotto. Climb up some roots at 3 m. Bear left to a tree.