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Very crimpy low end 7c put up by a visiting climber in 2016, and the hardest problem at Lukenya as at 2020. Start in the cave on decent handhold, big reach out to a bad crimp on the lip then hard tension move with heelhook to get a good left handhold. Easy from there to top. Beta video: https://vimeo.com/178325970

The most visually iconic line on the plains. Start is shared with 'Gills' (matching the far left of the crack rail). Traverse the rail before performing a series of athletic moves leading right to a shared top out with 'Shark Bite.'

Currently the hardest route in Lukenya and one of the highest quality routes I have ever bolted.

Start on the far left end of the cliff under the obvious right-rising traverse. Work through the traverse culminating on a hard move to a good rest jug. Chalk up and prepare for the V7 crux through steep terrain to perfect jugs above.

A great, complex problem up the centre of the boulder. Start matched on the good blocky rail low down and work your way up and slightly right, establishing on an undercling and sidepull before a big move to the top. A tricky topout still follows, but the holds are there.

Right of Rooster Tail. Sit-start on the lowest possible holds. Very hard first move (crux), to get to a better hold out left. Straight up from there.

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

The sit-start to Machungwa. Start on the two low crimps down and right, hard scrunched-up move up and left to the start hold of Machungwa, and finish straight up. Harder for the tall.

The arete immediately left of 'The Calm Before the Storm.' Start matched on the decent square knob. From there its just a matter of braving the storm ahead.

On the left side of the boulder. Grade is not really a good barometer on this one. Start on the good rail, get your feet set and launch for the top and mantle.

Long and sustained! Start way to the right under the overhang, just left of the entrance to the cave, matched on the slanting hold from a sit-start. Work your way left on decent holds and bad feet to a hard match (crux), then round then corner and up the blocky finish.

The logical conclusion to a lot of messing around on this boulder! As for Big Knife, but keep going with tricky beta along the rest of the boulder, finishing up Corkscrew. Long, fun and knackering!

Crimpy highball up the left side of the boulder, on the face.

Up the arete left of Sniffing Glue. Stand-start on two decent flat holds and work up the arete with power and precision to top out either straight up or left.

Start on two small crimpers above the rock. Traverse left and finish as for act of blasphemy. #SD #traverse #crimpy

Start on pocket/crack at the end of 'Final Boss' and proceed to do the problem in reverse up to where you join 'Jack.' From here, the problem proceeds up and left, sharing a stylish top out with 'The Joker.'

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. Deceptively difficult and low percentage.

A sharp and aesthetic traverse of the boulder. Start matched in "The Joker" crack and proceed to make a full traverse of the boulder utilising the features on the main face to the end of the climbable holds marked by a short horizontal crack with a small pocket at it's end. Once the furthest hold right "the pocket" has been achieved, the climber may top out. Note: the top edge of the boulder is off limits. The climber must dance around on the holds and features on the main face and belly of the boulder.

A mantling testpiece. Stand-start around the middle of the boulder with hands on the sloping edge, and feet on an obvious rail. Go up via a couple of small holds, hip flexibility and thrutching to better holds above and easy top-out.

Choice line in the middle of the boulder. Stand-start matched in a big horizontal pocket. Move up to the lip then work your way right to slightly more incut holds and use the left-hand edge of the rock on top to finish. Harder than it looks!

Sit-start on the only real obvious holds through the middle of the boulder. Hard move to get established in the pocket, then hard moves to the top.

Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece.

Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you.

On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler.

The second should have a back rope for the first 9m. At the right-hand end of Upper Cliffs is a prominent chimney. This superb technical route starts just left of this feature, below a slab, Gain slab easily and traverse left to corner (bolt). Swing around left edge and ascend face above (crux). On up steep rock (bolt), to a final belay bolt. Up easily to top or abseil off bolt.

Start on arete, make your way left onto face and then straight up through big powerful moves.

Fully bolted. Start on slab below first bolt. Move straight up to anchors. First section is tricky and technical to a large block. Climbing past this block is the crux, with different methods better suiting different heights of climber: either go straight up on poor crimps before moving right, or get a heel-lock and toe-jam in place either side of the block and reach straight for a small but positive crimp up and right. Finish on small crimps to top. Grade subject to debate, bu last 3 people to climb the route suggested 7b+ as the grade so that will be kept for now. FA and date unknown.

Same as Finger-Tingler, but adding in a sit-start from the lowest crack.

Straight up the middle of the boulder, using a tiny sharp left-hand crimp on the face. If you are 11, very light and very strong like the first ascentionist, you can match on this and use a tiny crack side-pull. If you are not, get your feet up and throw to a good hold at the top - very hard!

Start awkwardly below a scoop and work your way into it with fantastic undercling moves. Hard hand traverse along a sharp leftward sloping ridge with poor feet, before a heady direct top out.

Start matched on the same holds as for How old are you now?, but go up and right to a decent crimp, and straight up from there.

On the far left of the boulder. Short problem from a stand-start on a rail where the rock above has broken off. Straight up through a tricky mantle.

Alternate finish to Shelter from the Storm. Start in the same rail where the mjusi lives, but ignore the higher rail on the right and instead go straight up from the small pocket crack for a crimpy finish.

Line up the overhang left and under The Storm. Stand-start on the lowest juggy rail, figure out a way to get established on the obvious cracks above, and exit right onto the finishing jug of The Storm. Named in honour of the stubborn lizard living in the start holds.

Start on the left of the same juggy rail as 'Gobi Head' and go straight up by way of sharp crimps. The only feature this route shares with Gobi Head is the rail at the bottom. Stay away from the holds far right as this is a different problem.

Crouch-start low on good crimps. Work your way up and to the right through hardish moves to a good hold just below the overhang, then commit to big moves to decent holds for the airy topout. Beauty of a boulder problem.

Sit-start with right hand on same start as act of blasphemy and left hand further left, in a wide t the large rail. Straight up trending left from there.

Start with your feet all the way at the bottom of the cave, on the boulder. Hard move to start. Then hard moves. #SD #crimpy

Deceptively difficult and techy problem. Sit-start with left hand in lowest horizontal crack and right in a good low undercling. Make your way to a standing position via okay crimps, then up and right via weight shifts and tenuous body positions to top out on the right edge of the boulder on good holds.

Squat-start in the cave on two decent holds, move up and then left to big underclings, keeping tension to join the end of Sugar Rush. Crux is maybe avoiding dabbing the rock behind you!

A pleasingly aesthetic line, though the start hold is very tough on the skin. Stand-start with left hand on an incut hold low on the arete and right hand on a higher very sharp and small crimp. Bump up the left hand and get feet higher before going up to the decent hold just right of the arete, and from there to top on okay holds.

Lovely technical climbing up the right-hand arete of the main face. Sit-start in the big crack, then work your way up with right hand using the arete and left on face holds. Figure out how to get your feet high and go for the finishing jugs at the top!

Up the centre of the main face. Same sit-start as for Rising tides. Instead of crossing with right hand to the pocket though, take it with your left and go straight up, using the diagonal crimp on your right and stretching for the top. Probably harder for shorter climbers.

Great little V5 up the overhanging nose of the boulder. Start matched on the good holds about chest height and use power or heel-hook trickery straight up.

An alternative finish to Heavy is the head. Start on the same holds as for Heavy is the head, but when you arrive at the decent crimp about midway in match and head out left rather than right.

To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves!

Sit-start matched in big low crack, right of Shin tingler. Move up to lip then even harder mantle.

Same start hold as Farasi and goes left on a powerful traverse and topout.

Start with right hand on good crimp and left on your choice of bad holds lower down. Pick between two poor choices of of foot beta and make two moves to the lip and top out. The sit-start from the two lowest crimps remains to be done.

Start low in the cave on a crimp rail and up to bigger jug (left of razorback start holds). Up and left the steep face on small crimps, avoiding any of the larger razorback holds to the right. Join razorback for the topout only. Would be 3* if not a bit of an eliminate!

Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger.

Start on the big horizontal rail then a huge move up to the higher horizontal slot above, and easy top-out. Not too hard once you actually get it, but low-percentage for many people.

To the right of 'Legionnaire' is an impressive red buttress with a short wide chimney containing a large projecting chockstone. Immediately right is a thin crack leading to a horizontal break. Climb the crack and traverse rightwards along the break to a groove. Move up this (crux), and then make hard moves right (crux) to gain the obvious flake and finish.

Historic route number: 32

This route is a pure sport climb past eight bolts, and takes the imposing wall immediately right of 'Thick and Thin'. A strenuous hard start leads to a ledge on a grey block at 12'. Easier climbing leads up rightwards to a small bulge below a groove on right side of wall. The groove gets harder and harder until a crux step left is made to a good 'letter-box' hold on the left wall. Two strenuous moves above lead to easier climbing up into a recess. Step right and finish up rightwards.

Historic route number: 3a

On the right face, to the left of the obvious scoop used in Turbulence and As Good As It Gets, is a thin crack that slants up to the left. Very technical moves past the third bolt.

On the left side of the cliff on the brown/orange wall. Up the prow, moving right to the finish. The crux moves between the second and third bolt is as good as any 3* boulder problem in Lukenya. As of 28 Feb 2021 there is no anchor, so either top out or make an extended rope anchor from the tree at the top of the crag.

This exciting route takes the steep face between El Duende and Rear Window, beginning on the corner buttress. Start up right of obvious flake to 15 feet, traverse right onto face below overhang. Up right to obvious ledge/foothold, step left and move up to below overhang: then through overhang up to meet jugs on top (natural pro).

In the general area to the left of El Duende, clip First bolt of El Duende, move left and over small bulge and up to overhang. Straight through overhang to top. The opener has granted permission for a bolt near the bottom to allow climbers to start left and independent of El Duende.

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

It's a rare occurrence when an experienced sport climber delivers a bold traditional climb. Start in the middle of yellow wall 15' left of 'Chirac The Monster', below large ledge sloping up and left. Up to undercling and on to small finger crack. Up and left into bowl, which is exited at top to easier ground.

Historic route number: 70c

Not just one of the best climbs at Frog, this could be one of the best in the country. A pure sport climb with 10 bolts. It is a route of great character with a bold finish. Start some 50' right of 'Nuclear Arms', where two closely placed bolts protect the first difficult wall. Climb this to a sapling below obvious 'ear'. Move up the 'ear' to crux move at the top which leads to hard step left onto easier ground. Two moves left to arete which is followed up to the 'magic block'. Undercling right around this then climb crack to its top. Swing out left and up to finish.

Historic route number: 62a

This route begins to the right of the arch and the tree root, above the '82 AF' graffiti. Avoid dirty cracks and instead start off block where easy moves lead to fixed pegs and bolts up on left. Move left (crux), to a good stance on a block at second bolt. A difficult power-stretch move leads to easier climbing above, and right to top.

Historic route number: 55

About 60' left of 'Calling Elvis' there is an obvious groove line capped by a roof. Climb the steep wall on the left and step right into the bottom of the groove at 75' (bolt). Hard move up past second bolt, and continue up groove/crack to the roof. Climb this direct (crux) via the thin crack which splits roof. Brilliant climbing with excellent protection.

Historic route number: 33

This is a variant to the Keep Route. Start up The Keep to the overhang. Traverse right to bolt in overhanging hand traverse. Go up flake to nut runner (crux) and then finish right at abseil ledge.

Same traverse as Lotus Unfolding and finish up the prow on 99 Flake to top out. Climb it quickly or bring lots of skin - pumpy for the grade!

Left to right traverse of the main face of the boulder.

Sit start with left hand on the arete and right hand on a crimp low down. Slap up the arete and use small crimps and body tension to reach the top!

Stand-start on the good holds in the middle "corner" of the boulder. Find th only decent hold up and right from there, get your right foot high and mantle hard to the top.

Great boulder problem. Start low with a left-hand gaston and right hand on a big pinch. Come round the arete onto the face with strenuous moves, to good crimps and a reachy topout.

Up the middle of the boulder. Stand-start with a high right foot, right hand on small crimpy sidepull and left hand on small cramp. Get horizontal, bump up twice with left hand (hard moves) then an easy finish.

The lowball boulder just to the right of the Tiger Shark. Sit start with a good right heel to get established, the rest is just a matter of getting up

A tall, classic stand-alone line up arguably the cleanest face on the plains area. Start crouched, matching on lowest usable crimp rail. There are multiple ways to solve the problem above and become worthy of the legendary Ring.

Start matched low in The Shark's mouth at the end of the toothy rail. A fun traverse along the razor sharp teeth end in big moves to the shark's nose.

Beauty of a problem up this proud boulder. Start low and left of the overhanging prow. Go right to some decent slopers, back left to a good crimp and keep your calm for the top-out.

Same start position as Tiny scissors, difficult traverse requiring finger strength and tension to finish up Little Knife, using the slightly hollow but good flake as an undercling. A couple of excruciatingly sharp holds but fun movements!

On the back side of the boulder. Starts on big jugs, moves left on good hold and heel-hooks until a big move up and over the bulge. FA proved that knees can legitimately be used in climbing, despite jealous naysayers.

Just to the left and around the corner from 'Feet Up', but before 'the legitimacy of knees'. Sit start on two good crimp jugs, moving upwards on the left side of the crack until very good jug on the lip.

#SD #crimpy

Stand-start on small crimps, work your way left then up on small but positive holds. Cool movement, and not as bad for your fingers as the name suggests!

Lovely problem with some intricate, delicate moves up the face of the slab. Stand-start on the right of the face with hand on opposing sidepulls at about shoulder height, and feet on a low obvious thin ledge. Work your way left and up to a balancy finish. Bit easier for the tall.

Stand-start on a sloping right hand and left on a sharp rail, both around head height. Either cross through or bump to the big flake up and left. Take care with this hollow flake and the one above, topping out straight up.

Don't look down. Start on the small flake head right to slopers. #crimpy

Sit-start matched on corner of low blocky flake. Straight up via crimps and nice tensiony moves.

Sit-start with hands on the low block and adjacent small chickenhead. From here either jump to the jug above or deadpoint to diagonal right crimp, then mantle and finish.

On the mountain-facing side of the perched boulder. Sit-start, matched on a big jug on the left of the cave. From there traverse low along the boulder until you reach the cave, and go up before getting into it.

Aka something related to mental and disease. Up the face to the left of the cave perched boulder, on the side facing Mombasa Road. Sit-start on the lowest reachable holds then work up and slightly right before a heady top-out.

Stand-start, delicate moves up the face, then easily over the top block.

Great compression boulder. Sit-start with left hand on a good hold on the lefthand side of the arete, and right in a pocket, feet low underneath. Hug your way up the prow to juggy holds higher up.

Stand-start just behind the small tree, which can be padded so you don't fall into it. Left hand starts on a small left-hand crimp (couple of fingers) and a right-hand pinchy crimp. Straight up from there, with a fun big move to the finishing jug. One for Moonboard aficionados.

Deceptively difficult climb up the black face on the backside of the boulder. Sit-start matched on obvious crimp in middle of face, and find your way straight up.

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

The main line up the center of the head-wall. Start matched on left facing side-pull and make powerful moves up to get established on the wall. An efficient start is key to avoiding exhaustion in the no fall zone. Stay calm, don't panic, have fun!

On the side of the boulder facing the road.

Sit start with one hand on crimp and another on low sidepull. Make strong moves right and up to sloping rail and spicy mantle to top out.

Stand-start on decent holds below a squarish block with a zigzagging crack. Go up to this and straight up. For feet, avoid using the different-coloured rock that protrudes out from under the boulder.

Stand-start matched on decent but sharp holds below a v-shape in the rock. Move up to the v and straight up from there. For feet, avoid using the different-coloured rock that protrudes out from under the boulder.

Sit-start with hands matched in big low crack. Get to the lip straight above and slightly left then hard mantle to finish.

Deceptively tricky. Stand/squat-start on two low crimps along the same crackline around the bulge. Hard first move, then easier to top, straight up.

Crouch-start on the right of the boulder, where a small, shallow, horizontal crack on the middle of the boulder peters out. Start with both hands on decent crimps at this point (can be crossed), with bad feet, and work your way left along decent if small crimps. Go up and finish when you reach the first vertical crack (top of Weakness Protection Programme).

Short but very fun. Start in the obvious slot to the left of Ukiyo. Big move up to the lip, then cut loose and match before moving left to better holds and mantling.

Start matched on the smaller crimp rail to the left of Yugen. Find a hold round the corner on the left, then up to the top edge and find a way to mantle up.

Sit-start from a squarish hold under the arete. Powerful first move up to a crack, then easier but fun moves up the arete to finish.

Same start as Golden Power, bail right around the arete.