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Sailor's Buttress

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Fotos: 1
  • Ascensiones: 8

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

This is the next area of reasonable rock 200 metres to the right of 'Forgotten Face'. At the right end of 'Sailor's Buttress' there is an assortment of graffiti with an anchor featuring prominently on a high point at the end of the crag. The most obvious feature of this area is a distinct 'open-book' corner capped by a small roof. This is roughly in the middle of the crag, and is the line of 'Calling Elvis'. Some of the best climbs at Frog are located on 'Sailor's Buttress'.

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Restricciones heredado de Frog

Please check with the MCK before climbing there as access is sensitive. The land is partly used by the army and persmission is required before going from the commanding officer at the time. Some climbs are off limits during firing practice.

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Ética heredado de Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Vías

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Grado Vía

At the left end of the crag is a short chimney. Take this to a ledge and then easily right to the final wall. Climb slab past a tree and exit right up a crack.

Historic route number: 30

PA: Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992

This route starts 30' to the right of 'R2D2' at the base of a large flake that slants leftwards. Climb the flake to the wide groove above. Up this and move up to a crack leading past a small tree to the top.

Historic route number: 31

PA: Claude Dufourmantelle, 1985

To the right of 'Legionnaire' is an impressive red buttress with a short wide chimney containing a large projecting chockstone. Immediately right is a thin crack leading to a horizontal break. Climb the crack and traverse rightwards along the break to a groove. Move up this (crux), and then make hard moves right (crux) to gain the obvious flake and finish.

Historic route number: 32

PA: Pat Littlejohn, 1992

Any climbers who feel the need to use the tree at the start of this route should look for another climb! Start behind obvious tree to the left of 'Flight of Fancy'. Hard move off ground, then follow crack to top.

Historic route number: 32a

PA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1996

About 60' left of 'Calling Elvis' there is an obvious groove line capped by a roof. Climb the steep wall on the left and step right into the bottom of the groove at 75' (bolt). Hard move up past second bolt, and continue up groove/crack to the roof. Climb this direct (crux) via the thin crack which splits roof. Brilliant climbing with excellent protection.

Historic route number: 33

PA: Iain Allan, 1992

Take six quick-draws on this excellent route. Start just left of 'The Bug'. Climb small buttress up past bolt to small ledge. Step left and up rightwards past bolt to steep wall. The crux is to cross this wall leftwards past another bolt to ledge and bolt. Sustained moves lead up right of the ledge past two bolts to top.

Historic route number: 33a

PA: Iain Allan, 1996

A short climb but a good introduction to Frog climbing. Start below the corner 30' right of 'Flight of Fancy' with a tree at 35'. Climb left bulging wall then step right into corner when possible. Straight up through tree to top.

Historic route number: 34

PA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1992

It was said to be harder than trying to phone Elvis! A very obvious 'open-book' corner capped by a triangular overhang. Steep climbing up the groove, over a bulge and an awkward move (crux) enables the overhang to be reached. Step left and make a hard move up the crack above to top. The wall on the left of the final overhang can be traversed to the arete, which is followed to the top. This is a slightly easier alternative.

Historic route number: 35

PA: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1992

This is the next wide chimney right, with the column of rock at its base. Climb the deep chimney to the chockstone. Surmount this and continue to top.

Historic route number: 36

PA: Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992

Start about four metres left of 'Trader Horn' at a short crack. Up this then climb on increasingly steep ground past two bolts. After second bolt step left to slanting crack (crux). Find good protection in crack then continue up on small holds past two more bolts.

Historic route number: 36a

PA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1996

To the right is an obvious leftwards slanting crack which rises up a steep wall. Climb crack to where it bulges at 20'. Over bulge (crux) to good holds. Reverse and move up rightwards to ledge. Step left and up good rock to top.

Historic route number: 37

PA: Iain Allan, Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992

An excellent sport climb. Start at the steep boss of rock between 'Trader Horn' and 'Aquarius'. Climb directly up past 3 bolts to the overhang. Surmount this direct past a 4th bolt and on to finish.

Historic route number: 38

PA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1994

This route takes the clean crack to the right of 'Trader Horn' and 'Percolator'. Climb corner crack for 20' then follow crack left (crux), and up to ledge. Finish up crack above.

Historic route number: 39

PA: Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992

Steeper than it looks. Start in the corner about 40' right of 'Aquarius', where there is a steep corner crack. Climb this to bulge (bolt on right). Surmount this (crux), then step left into crack which is followed to the top.

Historic route number: 40

PA: Iain Allan, 1994

Between 'Sailors Buttress' and 'CB Buttress' there is a separate cliff with an obvious terrace at half-height. Starting from the right end of this terrace is a very distinct thin crack which is visible from the road. Climb this crack direct (bolt at 10'), to the top.

Historic route number: 40a

PA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1997

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