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Bookhouse Cliffs

  • Contexto de grado: AU
  • Ascensiones: 8

Estacionalidad

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Descripción

The Bookhouse Cliffs are the southern-most crags at Frog. The vehicle track starts to fade once past the cliff, and there are no worthwhile rock faces further South. The best landmark for the start of the climbing area is a 40' rectangular block leaning against a red buttress. The climbs begin in a small recessed area just to the left of this block.

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Restricciones heredado de Frog

Please check with the MCK before climbing there as access is sensitive. The land is partly used by the army and persmission is required before going from the commanding officer at the time. Some climbs are off limits during firing practice.

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Ética heredado de Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Vías

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Grado Vía

At the left end of the recessed area is a large guano-smeared cave/chimney. This climb takes the crack to the right of this. Bridge up past the chockstones to the leftwards slantrng crack. Follow this to the top (crux). Good protection all the way.

Historic route number: 1

PA: Niall MacHugh, 1992

Climb the wide chimney to the right of the previous route, to the overhang. Move onto the left wall below a narrow crack. Climb this to the finish (crux).

Historic route number: 2

PA: Niall MacHugh & Jeff Mariner, 1992

Ian Howell's 60th birthday present from MCK! This super little route is a rare commodity at Frog - a relatively easy sport climb. Start on left side of small buttress below an obvious horizontal flake/hold at 5'. Climb straight up over 4 bolts.

Historic route number: 2a

PA: Ian Howell, Rusty Baillie, Iain Allan & Kathleen Sebastian, 1996

This good route ascends the arete immediately left of 'Thick and Thin'. Start directly beneath bolt, and climb bulging wall on good holds to ledge on arete at 20'. Follow arete past a second bolt to crux finishing moves.

Historic route number: 2b

PA: Iain Allan, Ian Howell & Clive Ward, 1995

At the extreme left end of the Bookhouse Cliffs, a detached block forms a wide curving crack facing north. This route climbs the chimney 6' to the right. Awkward moves at the start lead to a bulge. Climb over this to a ledge on the left, and surmount small detached block. Step right to easy finish.

Historic route number: 3

PA: Barry & Niall MacHugh, 1986

First bolt shared with 'Legends Of The Fall', then head left.

The name is probably recorded in the New Climbs book.

This route is a pure sport climb past eight bolts, and takes the imposing wall immediately right of 'Thick and Thin'. A strenuous hard start leads to a ledge on a grey block at 12'. Easier climbing leads up rightwards to a small bulge below a groove on right side of wall. The groove gets harder and harder until a crux step left is made to a good 'letter-box' hold on the left wall. Two strenuous moves above lead to easier climbing up into a recess. Step right and finish up rightwards.

Historic route number: 3a

PA: Rusty Baillie, 1996

First 3(?) bolts shared with 'Legends Of The Fall', then head right.

The name is probably recorded in the New Climbs book.

This jamming exercise climbs the obvious narrowing crack in the north lacing wall 30' right of 'Thick and Thin'.

Historic route number: 4

PA: Barry, Niall MacHugh & Iain Allan, 1986

Begin just to the right of 'Bazooka'. Climb a crack until an awkward move can be made out to the left onto the obvious break which horizontally crosses Bazooka . Traverse leftwards across 'Bazooka', then climb the wall direct to tree belay.

Historic route number: 5

PA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1994

This is the obvious natural line which ascends the centre of the buttress. [21] for the first 15' only. Ascend the thin righiwards sloping crackline past two bolts to a groove. Climb this awkwardly and make a difficult step left onto a ledge. Move up short bulging wall to tree stump. and follow cracks above leftwards to another bulging wall which is climbed. Traverse left around corner then up rightwards to top.

Historic route number: 6

PA: Iain Allan, 1991

Around the corner to the right is a chimney leading to a roof with a long fig tree root. Climb the chimney to just below the chockstone at 15', and move out onto the left wall. Continue over bulge, moving leftwards to a bolt above. A technical move (crux) leads past the bolt to the top.

Historic route number: 7

PA: Niall MacHugh & John Lamb, 1991

This route shares the same start as 'Asylum Years' but continues up to the grey hanging root. Climb to the roof and move out onto the left wall (crux). Continue to the top.

Historic route number: 8

PA: Niall & Barry MacHugh, 1986

Unprotected for first 25'. Climb the centre of the large recessed grey slab to the horizontal break. Continue up slab above to top.

Historic route number: 9

PA: Bill Budenberg & Nico Mmhaeiides, 1992

The thin crack on the right edge of the recessed grey slab is climbed on fingerjams, then the wider easier crack to the top.

Historic route number: 10

PA: Barry & Niall MacHugh, 1986

This route climbs the left wall of this cliff, and starts at a point where the wall bulges by a crack at 10'. Climb the crack and step left to bolt. Move up (crux), then step left when possible into break. Follow this more easily to top.

Historic route number: 11

PA: Iain Allan, Nico Michaelides & Bill Budenberg, 1992

Start 15' right of 'Broken Arrow' where there is a groove below a prominent tree with grey roots. [21] for the first 15' only. Difficult moves up past two bolts lead to groove. Follow this up leftwards to vertical tree roots. Climb these with difficulty into tree. Ascend the crack above to the top.

Historic route number: 12

PA: Iain Allan, Claude Dufourmantelle & Guy Delaunay, 1986

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