Brothers in Arms E1 5a

An adventurous climb, generally on reasonable rock, that could be done without a bivouac by a fast party. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp you arrive just above a broad saddle between the main cliff and a small outlying hill. Head up on faint paths directly up to pale, easy-angled slabs at the foot of the face. Scramble up the slabs, traverse L into trees, start about 10m further L, on a shady ledge below a R-facing flake crack.

1. 55m. 5a. Up the flake that works its way up R-wards. Near top of flake a medium-large cam may be placed. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out L on to the face and start a heady climb up and L to a block on a ledge, here a weighted sling and/or small wires offer some protection. Climb first L-wards then directly up a poorly protectable slab aiming towards a lone palm tree and excellent belay. Very poorly protected, sustained pitch, mainly on excellent rock.

2. 40m. 4c. Continue directly up passing several trees to broken grassy ledges, flake belay.

3. 55m. 4b/c. Up wide grassy, slabby corner R of belay for 10m. Move R below roof then up R-wards towards a small tree. Up to slabs and across these, poor protection, to chimney. Up this on poor rock and grass to jammed block belay.

4. 40m. Move up then R onto a slab, which is followed R-wards, with no protection, to a shattered rock corner. Up this steeply to ledge with spike belay.

5. 45m, 4b Climb up to the L, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a short steep black wall with pockets for both protection and hands. Move up L to ledges. After a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up and L to tree belay in grassy bay. A short 20m. scramble through grass leads to the base of the walls left of a great open diedre, possible bivvy site. Block belay.

6. 45m. 4c Approach the wall at a small shelf and traverse L 5m. Make your way up and L to the obvious tree.

7. 30m. 4b. Continue up and slightly L to tree on next ledge system below final headwall.

8. 30m. Scramble L to ledges with small trees, possible bivvy site.

9. 35m. 4a. At L end of bivvy ledges step down and L onto wall to gain good holds, up these onto a slab then R facing corner and the top.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski )

Kenyan climbing ethics apply; anything that can be protected with natural protection should be, and climbers should leave no trace and be respectful of the incredible nature and local culture. Some practices seen in the valley to be avoided by future developers include: painting route names on rocks, overbolting and bolting of naturally protectable routes, and retro-bolting of