Nodos en Madagascar

Tête de moulinette : OK

Tête de moulinette : OK

Du Rova, redescendre dans la face Nord en direction du secteur très facile à repérer, 100m plus à l'ouest du Rova.

Relais intermédiaire à équiper commun avec A zébu ! et Number 6.

Block field off of RN4.

Major block field north of RN1.

Le fouillis de blocs et falaises est impressionnant et assez facilement accessible depuis la RN7.

Block field near the Beal factory on RN2.

Big wall climbing on black and orange streaked cliffs.

Crag layout is available here:

http://ailedescimes.com/cameleon/

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Pitches info:

1. 43m (10 bolts)

2. 49m (9 bolts)

3. 38m (7 bolts)

4. 50m (7 bolts)

5. 58m (8 bolts)

6. 50m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Scolothom.jpg

Pitches info:

1. 30m (5 bolts)

2. 35m (6 bolts)

3. 50m (10 bolts)

4. 52m (8 bolts)

5. 57m (8 bolts)

6. 20m (2 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/Air-Society-copie.jpg

Other notes:

It is possible to scramble to summit (and apparently walk down to camp Catta - not verified!).

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b obligatory!

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Les-Vazahamateurs.jpeg

I did this route with one of the guides (Faly) but it is not in the topos, bolts were quite new (in summer 2022) so probably is a recently open route.

More info about the crag layout can be found here:

http://ailedescimes.com/vatovarindry/

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Woodstock.jpg

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via 'La croix du sud' to the right.

Recommended equipment:

• 8 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 47m (6 bolts)

2. 48m (8 bolts)

3. 50m (5 bolts)

4. 40m (4 bolts)

5. 45m (8 bolts)

6. 50m (5 bolts)

7. 25m (no bolts!)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Malagasy-maroto.jpg

https://www.campcatta.com/topo2.php?page=topo4&ref=1&nb=44

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a obligatory!

Pitches info:

1. 50m (11 bolts)

2. 50m (7 bolts)

3. 50m (8 bolts)

4. 40m (2 bolts)

5. 50m (11 bolts)

6. 50m (6 bolts)

7. 30m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/bocatta_r.gif

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via the same route, except in the central area. See the route diagram (link at the bottom) for more details.

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (9 bolts)

2. 40m (10 bolts)

3. 50m (6 bolts)

4. 45m (8 bolts)

5. 30m (1 bolt + possible micro-friend)

6. 40m (8 bolts)

7. 40m (8 bolts)

8. 35m (5 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/croixsud.gif

Other notes:

Well equipped, classic

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via 'La croix du sud', 25m to the left.

Recommended equipment:

• 8 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 35m (8 bolts) 7a+/7b

2. 46m (7 bolts)

3. 50m (6 bolts)

4. 35m (6 bolts)

5. 35m (2 bolts)

6. 35m (6 bolts)

7. 46m (7 bolts)

8. 43m (5 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Karma-Chameleon.jpg

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 12 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (9 bolts)

2. 55m (8 bolts)

3. 60m (9 bolts)

4. 45m (5 bolts)

5. 45m (10 bolts)

6. 50m (10 bolts)

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Baile.jpg

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via 'Baile' (to the left) for 2 pitches, then abseil down via current route. Look at the route diagram for more info.

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Mahitsy-volom-bava2.jpg

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil down via 'La croix du sud' (4 routes to the left, some 40m at least).

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Veloma-madagsikava.jpg

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c+ obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 11 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

http://ailedescimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Catta-lands1.jpg

More info about the crag layout can be found here:

http://ailedescimes.com/mintsinjoarivo/

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c+ obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 13 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Un altro giro di giostra

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via 'Le crabe aux pinces d’or' or just walk down the ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 15 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Dancing with the world

Other notes:

Well bolted.

Climbing notes:

Route leads between two black stumps in the middle of the tower.

Recommended equipment:

• 17 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 55m (9 bolts)

2. 50m (10 bolts)

3. 45m (8 bolts)

4. 60m (16 bolts)

5. 60m (4 bolts)

6. 40m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Mainty sy fotsy

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Le crabe aux pinces d’or

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 7b obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Although you can abseil via this route (round-edged Mammut bolts) we recommend abseiling via 'Le crabe aux pinces d'or' (route to the left) although you can

You can also walk down.

See route diagram (at the bottom) for more info.

Recommended equipment:

• 11 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 25m (12 bolts)

2. 35m (9 bolts)

3. 35m (12 bolts)

4. 30m (8 bolts)

5. 30m (10 bolts)

6. 55m (12 bolts)

7. 35m 11 bolts)

8. 40m (6 bolts)

9. 45m (5 bolts)

10. 50m (3 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Relief

Pitches info:

1. 43m (13 bolts)

2. 42m (11 bolts)

3. 42m (7 bolts)

4. 58m (9 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Tremblements hilarants

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Important notes about the abseil are written on the route diagram (link below) in French. Could not accurately translate, sorry.

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Tsara Airlines

German report in SBB magazine 4/2017 page 44ff.

More info about the crag layout can be found here:

http://ailedescimes.com/karambony/

Abseil notes:

Walk down the small Karambony corridor.

A bit more info at CampCatta route diagram (link below) in French.

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 50m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (9 bolts)

2. 40m (6 bolts)

3. 40m (4 bolts)

4. 50m (5 bolts)

5. 40m (4 bolts)

6. 50m (4 bolts)

7. 40m (4 bolts)

8. 40m (4 bolts)

9. 40m (5 bolts)

10. 40m (4 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Cas Nullard

• CampCatta - Case Nullard

Climbing notes:

75% of the route is overhanging!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route. Must leave pitches 3 -> 7 fixed.

Walk down the small Karambony corridor.

Recommended equipment:

• 5 rurps
• 15 beaks
• 20+ knife-blades and 3 or 4 1/2, 5/8 (sawed off 1/2)
• 30+ copperheads and hooks
• 3 small cams/aliens
• 2 medium cams
• 1 #3, #4 cams
• nuts
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Sakai

• CampCatta - Sakay

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route or hike down the Karambony trail.

Read more about abseiling on CampCatta page (link below).

Recommended equipment:

Read more about it on CampCatta page (link below).

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Fantasia

• CampCatta - Fantasia

Technical face climbing on exceptional rock.

Same line with the original, harder 8th pitch.

More info about the crag layout can be found here:

http://ailedescimes.com/lemur-wall/

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - Gipsy crack

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6a+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

⚠️ Abseil via the same route except for the last two pitches. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 13 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 15m (5 bolts)

2. 40m (11 bolts)

3. 40m (13 bolts)

4. 50m (4 bolts)

5. 30m (10 bolts)

6. 40m (10 bolts)

7. 35m (8 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Pectorine

• CampCatta - Pectorine

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route.

You can also climb a bit above the last anchor point and walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 19 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 35m (8 bolts)

2. 50m (15 bolts)

3. 50m (18 bolts)

4. 50m (11 bolts)

5. 40m (11 bolts)

6. 45m (8 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - Tsaradonga

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 30m (7 bolts)

2. 55m (13 bolts)

3. 50m (13 bolts)

4. 30m (6 bolts)

5. 40m (11 bolts)

6. 50m (13 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - King Lui

Other notes:

Very well equipped.

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge (20 min, better than abseil). See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 12 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (2 bolts)

2. 55m (11 bolts)

3. 50m (8 bolts)

4. 35m (6 bolts)

5. 30m (7 bolts)

6. 30m (8 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - Three horses and a princess

Other notes:

Very well equipped.

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Recommended equipment:

• 13 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 50m (8 bolts)

2. 45m (6 bolts)

3. 45m (9 bolts)

4. 60m (13 bolts)

5. 55m (10 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Black magic woman

• CampCatta - Black Magic Woman

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6b+ obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 2x 50m ropes

Route diagram:

• CampCatta - Ebola

Climbing notes:

⚠️ 6c obligatory!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge.

Recommended equipment:

• 10 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Tsac Tsac (Note: General line shown only, blue dots)

• CampCatta - Tsac Tsac (Note: Corrupted image)