Vías en Melanesia para grado seleccionado

Pitch 1: 4b, Pitch 2: 5b

Pitch 1: 5b, Pitch 2:5c

The obvious #4 #5 crack to the right of Fists. Can be done by bumping single #5. A good warm up before the classic of the wall.

First route at the bottom of the descent gully. Start by pulling with care on the rickety flake. Clip the low bolt to avoid dropping into the muddy abyss if you underestimate how tricky this little slab is.

Sweet corner to a break, then vertical crack to lower offs.

Two and a half stars. Beautiful varied climbing on great rock! Initially intended to be one mega route up the 35m face but a large break in the middle is an obvious ending to the first section making this pitch an independent route. Start two metres right of the obvious corner at the left side of The Outpost cliff.

After leaving the anchors you are deposited at after rappelling, step right around vegetated corner. Slightly bouldery move easily aided to gain chossy looking break continuing through it for about a metre then step around the arete and an anchor will be visible. Continue upwards for access to OOE, TP and BTTW. Use fixed line to move safely around the next arete to rest of the routes.

Start at the L side of foot of the first buttress at a short crack – a few down and L on the side. Take a few cams for the first and last pitch if you don’t like run outs.

1. 25m 14 Up this and onto the slabby arete past 5 FHs to a DBB at the base of the steep orange wall.

2. 25m 16 Step up L and onto the steeper part of the main Stairway Wall. 9 bolts to a DBB

3. 25m 8 Up the rib to the top of the pinnacle and a DBB. Climb off the back of the pinnacle to The Balcony ledge.

Fun juggy climbing with some interesting angles. Start about 4m R of the rope that is used to drop down to the L end of the social wall. Up the jugs to get your hands on the ramp, up this then through a steeping to a belay. Belay here on keep going up the steep wall before moving L across the final ramp to the belay/lower off

A great juggy steep warm up. Start 2m R of The Cripple Nipple Project. Bridge up the walls to the large boulder chockstone. Climb onto this and then follow the diagonal line up and L before a steep little section at the last bolt. Mantle up over the top to the lower off. 6RBs, DRBB TM

Another fun great juggy steep warm up. Start about 10m down and R of TWSS. Bridge up the walls past the first 2 bolts. Above these climb onto the wall and follow the line up to a steep little finish at the last bolt. 7RBs, DRBB

The right hand route, starting off the pedestal.

Quality link up that allows the easiest path up the cliff on some beautiful stone, Take the first four bolts of Inuit then clip the LH RB and head into the top of Psychophagus. Retro’d with permission as was the original line climbed on this section of wall, done ground up on gear.

Trad line starting 2m left of Healesville Special. Place bomber wire from the ground then head straight up to DBB out of sight on top of rib.

Great climbing at the grade. The line of fixed hangers, with the crux straight off the ground.