Vías en Nueva Zelanda para grado seleccionado

1. Down at the track walk left for a few metres where easy rock can be scrambled up to reach the same grassy bank as for the end of the first pitch of Green Eggs and Ham. Look for a dirty vertical crack. This is the start. Climb the crack to the cave. The original ascent used aid, but the pitch has since been freed. Scramble up and left along the tree covered ledge past steep walls until a line of least resistance becomes apparent.

2. Head up, right and up again through broken ground till the top is reached. Can be broken into two pitches to avoid rope drag. A pleasant enough climb, all on natural pro.

Originally two pitches; 1st pitch bolted and 2nd trad.

The climb is now three pitches with bolts all the way to the top.

First bolt on second pitch hanging halfway out of the wall.

Finishes in the saddle at the same place summit track comes up from the south side. Glue in anchors have been installed on the climbers left (east).

Belay off tree

Up the wide crack on the arete. Single bolt anchor.

Easy chimney to first bolt. Thought provoking moves take you right past another bolt and around the corner to a nice arete. Go up the slab past a rusted bolt, a couple good bolts and a peg.

Two options to belay: chains or newer glue-ins a little to the right.

Very slabby. All feet. Start with right hand in the pocket.

Quite slabby feet climb. Big jug at the top on the right.

Work your way up the crack, very obvious, travers around the right hand side of the plant near the top

Great climb through a variety of holds. Shares anchor with White Anglo Saxon Protestant.

To the right of the cave is a tree, you can belay from this point and climb up and to the left (over the cave entrance, have your belayer watch for people coming into and out of the cave).

It's a trad climb that leads up and over the large block at the top, the belay anchors are on the back wall of the block, either loooong slings or cord is helpful to set up a top rope.

Climb the pointy flake that leads up to the pocketed wall above, the Crux is getting established on this. There are a few good holds but many are slopers and watch out for the moss and lichen that really make you feel you're climbing in a Jungle.

A metre to the left is an open corner with a thin crack. Climb this, then move left to finish up a waterworn groove.

Climb the green wall in between two large trees. Tending rightwards. Route name, grade and description provisional pending further information. FA Unknown.

Up left short side

Up right side

On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Sit start. Use the juggy arête out left and the crack out right to work your way up. Finish up and left.

Interesting moves at the start from the fang onto the ledge. From there a straight forward climb up the crack topping out on the right. Be careful with placements and take plasters.

Stand start with a hand on each side of the face. Head straight up the black slab to reach the jug and top out.

Easy for those tall enough to reach. A tough challenge for those who aren't.

tart matched in the left channel. Reach across to the right channel then top out there.

Start matched on obvious smooth block. Head right and then straight up.

Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range.

Match on the arête. Move up the left side.

Climb the pinches and jugs. About 4m to the left of Sun's Out.

Stand start. Match on the jug. Head to the right then up the side of the face.

Sit start, match on the vertical jug, and use other good jugs to climb the rest.

Easily up to the overhanging bulge, hump and bump your way over the bulge and continue to the anchors.

Anchor hangers now have rings so you can climb and then abseil without walking off.

Follow the arete just to the right of The Potarta moving right and up to the shelf and anchors. 2 BRs, 2 BBs.

Start as for Sunday Sunday, clipping the first bolt of that route to move right and follow two more bolts, finishing directly and to the left of the third, to the groove above.

Follow the drill hole to reach the ledge at top. The anchor shared among these routes is some meters back from the edge.

Start on the right side of the dark buttress right of “Midday lightning”, then up the centre of the buttress and left of the third bolt.

Right facing corner crack from hand to fist to offwidth.

Start either on the left or right of the pillar (left is 18), follow the main flaring corner up & right to a very cool blast hole. Continue upwards and left to the DBC anchor (shared with Atomic Rooster).

Start up crack to the right of the slab face. First piece can be placed from the ground, second piece from first stable stance . Then go left up the slab face via bolt to place piece in horizontal crack to second bolt and DBC anchor finish.

Follow the obvious flared crack to the left of slab wall. Leads to easy run out scramble. limited protection once you get to the scramble. Double chain anchor.

Start in the steep finger crack directly above the fence. Continue climbing straight up, keeping left of the large gorse bush, then traverse right at the top to the anchor set up by Christian Gamst.

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

Up the arete and buttress to the blast hole, and then jive and reach. Don't stray onto the routes to the right and left. Use the belay station for "Dochawiyogicojalime"

Climb up the corner between shooting in the dark and zag, traversing left under the chossy ledge and finishing at the former's anchors. Slinging the tree while amusing, is not advised. If (and when) it goes, it will pull down most of the climb. The crack in the corner offers excellent protection, although the chossy ledge above provides food for thought. First ascent done with two offsets and a 0.5 C4 that a certain leader forgot on the ground.

Climb the slabby arete to the right of "I Do My Cleaning in the Rain", leads to a great crack on the left with plenty of placement options. Mantle onto the large ledges and protect the widening crack above to head up to the anchors. You can either stay mostly in this crack, or bridge out left so you can use the juggy edges above.

Spotted the great crack and had already cleaned the widening crack at the top so it was match made in the heavenly sun.

Start to the left of "My Foot Slipped". Climb the steep crack on the left side of the pillar. Continue directly up for a few meters then step left onto a ledge below a smooth concave face. Climb a few moves up the left side of the face to reach the handrail then traverse right just above the bolt to the nose.

Starts just right of "Canadian Summer (M5)".

Mantel onto the shelf and up the stairs to the right.

Over the block, then another mantel to the belay.

Start to the right of Serenity. Straight up the face above past four bolts.

Start 5m R of ‘A Carp Died for this Climb’ Climb the corner with a thin crack at the back of it. Alternatively climb the corner 2m to the R. Continue directly up easier rock to the corner with yellow rock on its right. Start in the corner then move up left and continue trending slightly leftwards up the face and corner until a bolt can be seen on a smooth face to the right. Traverse past the bolt and continue upward to the anchor point below a large overhang near the top of the crag.

Start to the right of 'Fingertip Face' Get up onto the platform. A move on the left gets you started up the groove, then straight up to the belay.

Start 5m right of 'The South Face' Climb the centre of the narrow face at the back of the corner to a small ledge 4m up. Step left round a small arete onto the scooped face. Climb directly up on good rock 1m to 2m right of drill hole. Continue up smooth steep face and move right to the belay.

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

There is a double bolt chain anchor on the ledge for multipitch practice.

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

Climb up to the ledge, move right onto the face and go up through the gorse bush. Climb the headwall on the right using the top two bolts of the project or do it all trad with small gear in the crack.

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

Layback up the flared crack to meet "Scrack" at the last bolt, shared anchor.

Start up between 'The Whimsical West' and 'Rock Climb This You Bastards'. Follow the line of the bolts, keeping close to them for the best climbing.

Start 5m left of "Rock Climb This You Bastards". Climb the corner. Continue up the centre of the polished faces following the line of bolts.

Climb the prow and the final rounded face to the anchor bolts shared with "Blue's Suede Shoes".

Start in the groove beween Blue's Suede Shoes and The Whimsical West. The first bolt is on the right, the rest are stright above the groove, finishing at the double bolt belay shared with BSS and WW.

Starts 5m left of "The Whimsical West". Climb 3m up to the left end of large rounded ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb up to second bolt then traverse horizontally along ledge then up to third bolt.

Up to fourth bolt then up the corner just right of the anchor bolts. Alternatively from fourth bolt climb corner just left of the anchor bolts.

Start at the corner or wall left of Arachnid, up left of the nose, and to the anchors shared with Arachnid. The start is a bit thin but good climbing above.

3m left of Arachnid. Two bolt belay. Stay on the shield headwall, some holds on the left edge. Avoid the poor rock of to the right.

Still alot of debris either side please be careful. start on the face and position yourself through the rails, mantle and then fight the pump to the top.

would be a crag classic maybe if it were slightly cleaner

Start as for Go Up The Waterfall but instead of traversing leftwards under the overhang go straight up to the same anchor. Possible earlier FA unknown.

Starts on the face to the right of the waterfall (the slabby jutting out pieces where birds hang around, look for the guano), traverse left under the waterfall and then steel yourself for the big haul up and over!

Top half is a breeze and fun to climb up where the water flows after heavy rain.

Start slightly right of the shrub in the middle of the waterfall face under the guano, work your way straight up on small edges to the bulge, then proceed directly up.

First few meters offers no opportunity for protection, but provides enjoyable and delicate climbing. Placements improve as you get higher, and the big haul over the overhang and bulge is well protected, leading to easy climbing above, topping out on DBA. Look out for the hidden jugs and edges on top of the bulge.

Unsure if this variation has been climbed before, but thought I'd share.

Start on the rails, get feet on, make your way to the top just below the gorse. down climb to the right.

The line with 2 bolts, if you can find them among the overgrowth.

Climb the left-facing corner. Originally continued up the corner crack and through what is now very overgrown territory, nowadays just climbed to the ledge on the right. Generally climbed to gain access to the anchors for the next two routes.

Climb the deep groove to good stances, then straight up and exit through the gap between the blocks at top.

Boulder direct to the ledge, or traverse in from the left (16). Then up the blocky groove and exit to a chain hidden in the bushes above. Looks easy but the top can be tricky and this is perhaps not ideal as your first lead on gear at the long side if you are not solid at the grade.

Either: traverse in to the ledge from the right (16, see start of Smash And Grab), climb the right-hand groove (17, see start of Rebuilding Oscar), climb the face (17, shown) or climb the left-hand groove (21). From the ledge bridge up the main groove, past a drill hole (a triple sling will protect this nicely), and over the blocks at the top.

The short corner further right of Badfinger, one stage higher up the ledges. This now has an electrical control pipe for the field sprinklers running down it, and is bound to be dirty and overgrown. If you really must climb it, be very careful not to damage the pipe. The first ascent is contested.