Nuevo León Guide

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

1,959 routes in Region

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.516254, -55.836362

Resumen

Excellent limestone, multiple styles: slab, pockets, tufas and freestyle (jk), best crags in Mexico, super short approach (maybe you can belay from your car) Regio culture, carne asada and climbing

descripción

Northestearn state of Mexico, crags are close to the capital Monterrey, lots of stuff to do besides climbing, secure camping spots, serious climbing and serious fiesta.

Acceso

Monterrey International airport receives flights mostly from the US, fartest climbing crag is 1 and a half hours from landing.

Alojamiento

Multiple hotel and hostal choices in the city, in Potrero and El Salto are posadas and camping spots with kitchen.

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Estacionalidad

702 routes in Crag

Caliza

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.581044, -100.433467

Resumen

From all the climbing areas in Nuevo Leon "La Huasteca" is the closest one to Monterrey. The rock here is limestone and its color is pale gray to white. Most routs here are slab, with some exceptions.

descripción

"La Huasteca" is home of lots of classic climbs in Nuevo Leon. There are some multi-pitch routs and a via ferrata. Some routs have very high first bolts, this is because the river has eroded the ground level during rain seasons.

restricciones

The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible.

Acceso

Drive from Monterrey on Morones Prieto heading east (oriente) towards Saltillo but be careful not to go onto the highway. Before the toll highway to Saltillo follow the sings to "La Huasteca".

Alojamiento

Either stay at Huastecamp with Diego, deep in the canyon or at Monterrey. It is not recommended to stay at the entrance of the canyon due to its proximity to the city.

Summary:

33 routes in Crag

Búlder y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.649375, -100.448776

Resumen

Rutas variadas muy cerca de la entrada y de los ricos elotes. ADVERTENCIA: PRIMERAS PLAQUETAS FUERON ROBADAS, EXTREMA PRECAUCIONES

WARNING: FIRST BOLTS HAVE BEEN STOLEN, PROCEED WITH CAUTION

descripción

Easy acess and short approach, locals might came over to look around.

Fácil acceso y acercamiento corto, gente local usualmente se acerca a ver.

Acceso

Southwest of park entrance, across parking lot and through a dirt ramp, you can see a small chappel on the back.

Al suroeste de la entrada al parque, por el estacionamiento a una rampa de terracería, al fondo se observa una capilla pequeña

Summary:

4 routes in Area

Escalada artificial, Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.647495, -100.452318

Resumen

Primer pico con forma triangular justo frente a la entrada.

first arête just across the river in front of the park´s entrance.

descripción

Pico Licos tiene varias rutas de escalada asistida, tradicional y deportiva.

Pico Licos has several routes; aide, trad and sport.

Historia

Pico Licos fue el primer pico escalado en el parque. El primer ascenso fue realizado por Federico "Lico" Ramirez e Ignacio Manzo en Agosto 1956.

Pico Licos was the first summit climbed onthe park. The first ascent was performed by Federico Ramirez A.K.A."Lico" and Igbacio Manzo on August 1956

Summary:

7 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.647979, -100.452061

Summary:

32 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.647868, -100.453221

Resumen

Zona clásica con rutones clásicos, grados sostenidos y de referencia, problemas de equilibrio, especial por sus agarres tipo pocket pero con crimps

Classic zone with classic routes, sustained grades.

descripción

Esta es la primer pared con turas al entrar a la Huasteca. Se caracteriza por sus agarres chicos y pisaderas malas. Son rutas en placa de mucho equilibrio.

Acceso

From entreance to the park, go along the road 1 km, and you should see it to the left, wall with lots of holes, you can park nearby in one of the park´s parking lots. cross the road carefully and after 3-5 minutes you will reach the base of the wall.

Desde la entrada, sigue por el camino 1km, la pared es visible al lado izquierdo, pared de caliza gris con muchos hoyos, estaciona en uno de los estacionamientos del parque cercanos, cruza la carretera con cuidado y después de 3 a 5 minutos estarás en la base de la pared

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.649548, -100.458661

Summary:

10 routes in Area

Llano Apto para perros Apto para niños Izquierda a derecha 5-10 min Permitido Principiantes Sol todo el día Mojado con lluvia Ventoso

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.652118, -100.460180

Summary:

11 routes in Area

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: 25.649635, -100.464831

descripción

Es la cueva más pequeña que está debajo de la cueva de la virgen.

Acceso

Camina derecho hacia la cueva. 20 min

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.651304, -100.464309

Acceso

Primero caminar hacia arriba por el arrollo y luego tomas una vereda muy poco marcada a la izquierda, sigue la vereda hasta la pared. las rutas están listadas de izquierda a derecha

Summary:

18 routes in Crag

Caliza Tumbado Vertical Frágil cuando mojada Sol por la mañana Mojado con lluvia Ventoso No apto para niños Destrepe Placa este Potencial de nuevas vías Abandonado

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.649830, -100.463343

Resumen

This great area with 5.10 and 5.11 routes is located below the Virgen and Virgencita caves.

descripción

Sun all morning. Shade after 2PM during Summer

Acceso

You can access this area with the trails in front of the wall. An easier path is to follow the Juan de Dios access trail, and follow the wall to the right until reaching the crag

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.648821, -100.462449

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.648224, -100.461247

descripción

right under the house built on the mountain. justo debajo de la casa del doctor que fue construida justo en la montaña.

Acceso

park right after crossing the bridge at the curve. and find the path up to the house. Or, park at la pared de los gatos and head up to Lagrimas y Sonrisas then just continue walking close to the wall untill you find yourself right under the Casa del Doctor.

Summary:

11 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.648034, -100.460639

descripción

It's a small area with a few climbs. Cracks, face. Great area to avoid having to cross the river when there´s water flowing down from the Presa Rompe-picos (not very often).

Es una área pequeña con unas cuantas rutas. Grietas, placa (con goteritas). Excelente para no mojarte cuando el río tiene agua y no puedes llegar a la extrema o navajas sin tener que cruzar el río.

Acceso

Your drive up to "Pared de los Gatos" right before crossing to the cattle gate (ditch with five iron pipes on the ground). You'll see a tree and you'll notice you can park your car. Usually there's people there taking rappeling courses. From there you walk back from the way you came on the road an look for a path up to the wall. When you get to the wall just look for the bolts. (There may be unfinished routes so be prepared to abandon if you find a route without anchors).

Llegas hasta la pared de los gatos justo antes de cruzar el guarda-ganado (la zanja con tubos) vas a ver un árbol y lugar para estacionarte. Normalmente hay gente tomando cursos de rappel ahí. Ya estacionado caminas un poco de regreso por donde llegaste y buscas un camino para subir a la pared, ya en la pared solo tienes que buscar las placas (hay que estar listo para abandonar rutas sin reunión)

Historia

Developed by Herazmo Guzman a.k.a. "El Mudo", Dani de la Fuente y con colaboración de Miguel Guerra a.ka. "El Don"

Summary:

1 route in Area

<5 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.646882, -100.455356

Resumen

Has routes both on the south and north face. Tiene rutas en la cara norte y cara sur.

descripción

Named after the Diablos Club. Nombrada asi por el Club Diablos.

Acceso

North face, park in the first parking lot, cross the street. South face, you can park in the Navajas area. Para accesar a la cara norte, usar el primer estacionamiento de la curva, y al cruzar la calle comienza. Para accesar a la cara sur se puede estacionar en la zona de Navajas.

Alojamiento

Huastecamp

Ética

Very old and minimal protections that's how they were set, these are old classic routes, please keep them that way by not adding bolts.

Summary:

24 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.647923, -100.459934

descripción

Wall to the right of the cattle guard. La pared que esta a la derecha del guardaganado.

Summary:

41 routes in Area

<5 min Tolerado Vertical Sol por la tarde Apto para perros Apto para niños Llano Placa suroeste Potencial de nuevas vías Principiantes

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.649230, -100.459620

Resumen

Escalada en placa, una excelente zona para aprender a pisar bien.

Face climbing, excellent place to learn footwork.

descripción

Es una zona recta de roca caliza con muchas rutas consecutivas desde 5.7 hasta 5.12c, con una muy alta frecuencia de rutas entre 5.10b y 5.11b.

This is a straight line of limestone with lots of consecutive routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12c, mainly 5.10b to 5.11b.

restricciones

Cuando entren en auto, cuidado con la roca suelta, no cualquier vehículo puede pasar por ahí. En los domingos puede haber mucha gente local que va de paseo, pero solo es en las primeras rutas.

When parking, watch out for loose rock, not all vehicles are able to ride on it. On Sundays, it could get a bit crowded with local people on picnics, but only at the beginning of the crag.

Acceso

Si tienen 4x4 o algún buen substituto, se pueden estacionar junto a la piedra. Si cuentan con un auto regular, se estacionan a 50 metros.

With a 4x4 or a good substitute vehicle, parking beside the crag is possible, if not, any car can be parked about 50 meters from the crag (170 ft).

Alojamiento

No es recomendado acampar aquí, es un lugar MUY concurrido. Solo se recomienda acampar en Guitarritas y/o cañón de San Judas. Es más recomendable quedarse en zona urbana..

Camping here is ill-advised, the place is frequently visited by locals. The only good camping grounds in Huasteca are Guitarritas and San Judas Canyon, else, stay in the city.

Ética

Por favor, no tirar basura. Recuerden que al limpiar la ruta hay que bajar a rappel en doble para conservar el equipamiento de las rutas. Un replaqueteo le iría muy bien a esta zona.

Please, pick up your trash. Also, for conservation of the routes' equipment, do clean your routes by rappeling down with both halves of the rope as to avoid any friction. Re-bolting this crag is advised.

Summary:

87 routes in Crag

Caliza <5 min Permitido Desplome Tumbado Vertical Sol por la tarde Frágil cuando mojada Mojado con lluvia Apto para perros Apto para niños Llano norte sur oeste Principiantes

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.620190, -100.459270

Resumen

Shaded up until noon, after that it will receive the projected shadow from the mountain across the road around 5 pm (summer).The most shaded canyon has a couple of the hardest routes in La Extremita.

descripción

It´s a group of small canyons that have been developed by local climbers. Some routes have long runouts but they are on easy juggy climbing.

Acceso

About a hundred meters (downriver) from La Extrema

Summary:

71 routes in Crag

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.617332, -100.460369

Resumen

Grades from 5.8 - 5.11D. A couple of clasic multi-pitch routes. You'll find lots of fun here.

descripción

This is a great area with lots of routes and grades to choose from. Beware of lose rock after rainy days (people not wearing helmets satay a safe distance from the rock faces). The face is oriented to the west so in the summer you can climb during the morning up until noon. During winter you can climb in the warm sun all afternoon.

Acceso

Drive from the La Huasteca Park entrance and get to La Zona Extrema. 2-3 km for entrance you can see the wall on your left side, continue along the road until you find an rustic road entrance you can park on the road, 4x4 vehicules can park closer to the wall, theres lots of riverbed stones, stucked cars are common.

Desde la entrada del parque unos 2 o 3 km por el camino verás la pared de tu lado izquierdo, continua por la carretera hasta encontrar una entrada de terraceria antes de una curva, puedes estacionar en el camino de terraceria, 4x4s pueden acercarse más a la pared, hay mucha piedra de rio suelta, es común que se atasquen carros pequeños

Resumen

This is the most impressive wall of all la Huasteca. The rock on its 550m of climbing is just fantastic.Excellent grip on dihedrsls, crimps pockets..on excellent limestone. There are around 7 or 8 routes here. We opened a couple (Nayeri and Pau).both sport climbing multi-pitch routes. Most of the routes sre sport but there are 2 or 3 mixed cñimbibg routes too. Winterbis the season to climb here

Acceso

Enter into the canyon on the way to Guiterritas You will see this impressive wall justvrightbof the valley in front of Guitarritas canyon. Passed Don Simon Rancho (where there is a barrier) continue 100m more and go right crossing the stoned river bed. Look at an abandoned wooden house above the river bed (bellow and left of Tatewari). From here walk to the right,flat,until beeing at the center of the wall.Then go up,look for cairns. Total walking approach is little more than one hour

Alojamiento

Huastecamp or pitch your tent wherever you want

Summary:

134 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.609975, -100.504852

descripción

You have to drive through a gate where a man asks for donations to the community. Just give him something above 20 pesos and be friendly (just like him)

Summary:

4 routes in Area

Escalada deportiva y Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: 25.617366, -100.463799

descripción

Es la pared del lado derecho antes de la curva que lleva a Medicos.

Summary:

4 routes in Crag

5-10 min Permitido

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.615154, -100.462453

Summary:

76 routes in Area

Apto para perros Apto para niños Llano suroeste <5 min Tumbado Vertical Sol por la tarde Fuego

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.612245, -100.455120

Resumen

Technical climbs on slabby to vertical rock of excellent quality. You can only get shade during the mornings. It's best suited for Winter climbing. South oriented wall, crimps crimps crimps.

descripción

This crag is populated by a lot of 5.11+ routes and a few 5.10+

be careful on the routes you choose to climb and be specially careful when you clip into an old custom angle-hanger (they're 15+ years old, rebolting is required).

Acceso

7 km from entrance, drive along the road you can see the wall to the left, a big wall with a lot of paralell lines, look out for the rustic road and drive 200-300m you can park there and walk 100m to the base of the wall

A 7 km de la entrada, podrás ver la pared del lado izquierdo, una pared grandota, hermosa con muchas lineas diagonales paralelas, chulada de pared. Busca el camino de terracería y manea unos 200-300 metros hasta que termina el camino, puedes estacionar ahí, camina otros 100m y estará en la base de la pared.

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Caliza 30-45 min Tolerado Sol todo el día

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: 25.610460, -100.443011

descripción

Además de las rutas de gran pared que hay en esta zona, no hay ninguna otra ruta. Además, por el tema del clima, se recomienda altamente, solo realizar los ascensos a estas rutas en invierno y con un clima frio, ya que el sol pega todo el día.

Acceso

El approach a la base de la pared se puede hacer siguiendo la siguiente ruta de wikiloc. Se estaciona afuera del rancho del Águila Blanca, se cruza una barda de alambres, luego se caminan otros 200-300 metros hasta otra barda de alambres, y después das vuelta a la derecha, siguiendo un camino bastante marcado al lado de la reja de alambres, hasta un punto que cruzas esa barda por una sección con muchos Cactus y Espinas, para llegar a una cañada poco obvia, siguiéndola hasta la base de la ruta. Sigue la siguiente liga de wikiloc: https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/approach-a-rutas-del-pico-negro-62333284

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

Suave este 10-20 min Permitido Tumbado Vertical Sol de mediodía Mojado con lluvia

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.588407, -100.462649

descripción

-----Español-----

Nueve rutas armadas. Todas en el rango de 5.9 a 5.10d.

-----English-----

Nine routes bolted. They´re all in the 5.9 - 5.10d.

Acceso

-----Español-----

25°36'01.3"N 100°26'59.5"W

Tomar la terracería a la derecha de la carretera principal, hay un letrero que dice "Rancho San Judas". Es una terracería ligera para cualquier vehículo.

25°35'54.7"N 100°27'04.9"W

Al llegar al lecho del río es necesario 4x4 para seguir en vehículo o comenzar a caminar 1.5 km hasta el siguiente punto.

25°35'26.9"N 100°27'39.1"W

Dejar aquí el vehículo 4x4. No tiene sentido intentar cruzar el primer jardín de piedras ya que se pone peor justo adelante.

25°35'18.1"N 100°27'45.3"W

Caminar 350m hasta la pared con plaquetas.

-----English-----

25°36'01.3"N 100°26'59.5"W

Take the dirt road right of the main road, there is a sign "Rancho San Judas". It is an easy dirt road for any kind of vehicle.

25°35'54.7"N 100°27'04.9"W

Reaching the river bed a 4x4 is required to keep driving or hike for 1.5km (1mi) to the next point.

25°35'26.9"N 100°27'39.1"W

Park the 4x4 vehicle here. There is no point in trying to cross the first rock garden as it gets worse right ahead.

25°35'18.1"N 100°27'45.3"W

Hike 350m (0.2mi) to the bolted wall.

Descenso

-----Español-----

Tener cuidado de no atorar el vehículo 4x4 en la grava suelta del lecho del río.

-----English-----

Make sure you don´t get stuck on the gravel of the bed of the dry creek.

Summary:

16 routes in Boulder

Caliza Permitido Sol por la mañana Sol de mediodía

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 25.582251, -100.446379

descripción

Boulders desde 10 minutos de hike en el cañon hasta 40 minutos despues, 22 rutas desarrolladas por el momento. En la entrada al cañon pusieron una cerca de puas, se puede pasar por abajo de ella y seguir el camino sin problema.

Acceso

cañon de san bartolo, camion abandonado.

Summary:

3 routes in Unknown

Todo Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: 25.558597, -100.395027

descripción

Zona muy pequeña, rutas cortas con grietas, solo para practicar el poner protecciones removibles , solo tiene reuniones

Summary:

9 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.558297, -100.396381

Resumen

cracks! Grietas!

descripción

This is on the right side of the Presa Rompe-picos (driving upriver).

Acceso

park and walk up the trail which is right under the walls

Historia

Developed by local Huastequeros.

Summary:

12 routes in Area

Permitido Sol por la tarde

Escalada deportiva y Búlder

Lat / Long: 25.558687, -100.389868

Resumen

Cueva cruzando el rio. 1 kilometro antes de la rompepicos. Su nombre en honor a The Wall de Pink Floyd.

descripción

Piedra solida de rio. Caliza con minerales.

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.556926, -100.395602

Resumen

Tiene sombra siempre.

descripción

En un pequeño cañón, del lado derecho hay una sección con varias rutas.

Acceso

Antes de cruzar el puente que lleva a la presa rompepicos, salir por la izquierda, donde se llega a una zona de estacionamiento. Caminar un par de minutos más adelante hasta donde está el pequeño cañón del lado izquierdo, y subir. Las rutas están del lado derecho (y otro par del lado derecho).

Alojamiento

No se ve como un lugar bueno para acampar, pues hay mucha concurrencia a la presa rompepicos. Se puede optar por acampar en guitarritas, que queda algo retirado, o en la ciudad.

Ética

Favor de llevarse su basura. No hay registro en esta página de quién está haciendo estas rutas, si alguien sabe algo de la zona, compártanlo.

Summary:

7 routes in Boulder

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 25.556914, -100.399457

descripción

Son los Boulders que están en la presa Rompe Picos

Summary:

19 routes in Cliff

Desplome Seco cuando llueve

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.557414, -100.399379

descripción

Esta pared tiene un desplome muy engañoso. La roca es muy diferente al resto de las rutas en la Huasteca.

Acceso

Llegas a la rompepicos y después de cruzar la presa a la derecha en la pared más desplomada y obvia, ahí están las rutas.

Summary:

4 routes in Area

Caliza <5 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.494148, -100.358124

Resumen

Muros con pocas rutas en el camino al Pajonal.

descripción

Dos zonas con dos rutas cada una.

Acceso

Avanzar después de la presa Rompepicos por el cañón principal. Después de pasar frente al cañon de la sandia y rancho las tinajas, se encuentra una desviación en el km 10 rumbo al Pajonal. Tomar el camino de la derecha y avanzar hacia la antigua presa.

Alojamiento

Hay quien acampa en la planicie de la presa, o en las zonas se puede poner tienda.

Historia

Armadas por Miguel Guerra, Daniel Niño, Cesar Jackie y Herazmo Guzmán aprox en 2010-2011.

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.529401, -100.397466

Resumen

Hermoso cañon con paredes naranjas desplomadas.

restricciones

Por el momento es propiedad privada y no hay paso.

Summary:

24 routes in Crag

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 25.485108, -100.373040

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

680 routes in Crag

Apto para perros Caliza Camping Agua potable Fuego

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.948416, -55.480250

Resumen

El Potrero Chico is one of the world's premiere big wall sport climbing destinations with over 600 routes including more than a dozen big wall multi-pitch climbs.

descripción

El Potrero Chico park is located just outside the small town of Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico. Being just an hour away from the city of Monterrey, Mexico it is very easy to get here. Flights from the U.S. can have you to the climbing destination in as little as a half day. A taxi can take you from the airport to EPC in under an hour for about $60USD.

El Potrero Chico is also very easily driven to from the U.S. The most common route for driving comes through Nuevo Laredo at the border with Texas. After the border crossing the drive can be done in under 3 hours.

The size and beauty of the mountain here is incredible and is a wonderful sight for the eyes. Come to Mexico and enjoy not just the climbing but the wonderful culture as well.

Get an impression about the area in this video: https://youtu.be/UngOjysJN-g

Guidebooks: There are currently (2019) 5 paper guide books for EPC moderately available:

EPC Climbing 3rd Edition by Frank Madden (2022). The most up to date guidebook for Potrero. Full color topo images. Route descriptions and beta for key routes to climb while visiting. Books will be available at El Buho, Rancho El Sendero, La Posada, Homero's camping, Lemuria and Leo's Taco's and Taxi Services. Also a percentage of the proceeds go to El Buho to help with the building of a new school in a nearby town as well as to Escalando Fronteras for helping at risk youth in Monterrey. https://www.epcclimbing.com/
A Climber's Guide to El Potrero Chico by Simeon Heimowitz (2018). More like an extended rant about climbing development in EPC with some route information interspersed. The lack of index and odd cliff layout makes finding routes harder than it need be, too.
Climb El Potrero Chico by Ed Wright. Generally done as an annual edition, with the 20th edition in 2015. Mostly a route listing, little details beyond name & grade for most routes, though it does include hand-drawn topos for a few of the longer routes. No longer being updated or printed.
The Whole Enchilada by Dane Bass (2007). A real guidebook, route descriptions, cliff pictures, etc. Now somewhat out-of-date. But still floating around.
Mexico Rock: A climber's guide by Jeff Jackson 1999. The original guidebook to El Potrero Chico containing not only a lot of good information about climbing in Potrero but also several other areas in the Northern Mexico area. Long since out of print, there are still some copies floating around so if you can get your hands on one, do it. A cool part of the history of climbing in Potrero Chico.
And for digital: Rakkup guide, also by Frank Madden. A more up-to-date version, but similar to his printed edition. https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/el-potrero-chico-rock-climbing/

Rest Day Activities:

The biggest thing people like to do is visit the San Joaquin Termas (hot springs). Great rainy day activity.

Nearby by petroglyphs site is a must to see an incredible part of Mexican history. Boca de Potrerillos, about a 30 minute drive from the Potrero. Taxi can be reserved by any of the campgrounds.

Monterrey is a great city to visit, it has multiple museums to visit and a very cool downtown park.

Grutas de Garcia and the Grutas de Bustamante. Super cool cave systems that you can pay a small price to go in and explore a little.

restricciones

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Acceso

The rock climbing is split between the East and West side of the canyon. Most of the crags have a 1 to 5 minute approach while some of the crags have a 45+ minute approach from inside the canyon. Since most of the camping and lodging is just outside the park you will have a 10 to 15 minute walk to get inside the park.

Alojamiento

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e-mail: betorodriguezv@gmail.com

======================================================

General Entries:

Rancho El Sendero, Homero's, La Pagoda and La Posada all have excellent rooms and camping available all throughout the year. Reservations are best made ahead of time in the case you are trying to get one of their rooms or casitas for groups. Plan ahead as they can get booked up well before busy season.

Rancho El Sendero - https://www.facebook.com/ranchoelsendero Homeros - http://potrerochico.org/listing/homeros La Pogoda - http://potrerochico.org/listing/la-pagoda La Posada - http://www.elpotrerochico.mx/

There are also lots of other casitas in the area for rent as well. Contact information can be hard to find for these ones but you can maybe just show up and get lucky finding one of them. They will have signs posted out front for the climbers to see.

Historia

Climbing in this area was started many years before American's ever came here to develop. A handful of summits had been completed back in the 60's. This area saw it's big sport development begin in the late 80's by more than a handful of people. Jeff Jackson, Ed Wright, Alex Catlin, Kurt Smith, Elaina Arenz, Dane Bass, Kevin Gallagher, Hank Caylor, Tony Faucett, Rick Watson, Craig McCudden, Curtis Mai, Todd McCray and a host of Austin climbers.

For the latest in guidebooks that are available in the area check out the following links: https://www.epcclimbing.com/

http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/el-potrero-chico-rock-climbing/

Summary:

16 routes in Crag

1-2 horas

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.946451, -100.462312

Resumen

Click on the link to see the trail on WikiLoc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/fitness-cave-trail-115591379

descripción

This section is outside the of the main El Potrero Chico canyon. This sector is on the north eastern facing wall of the mountain.

restricciones

The mine is now closed so be respectful when crossing the property. You can no longer drive your car up to the top part of the trail.

Acceso

Exit from the backside of the La Posada Campground through the gate going towards the closed mining area. Follow the rock cairns north towards the town. When you hit the gravel road follow that all the way to the top of the mining area. When the road comes to an end start to follow the trail marked by cairns. The approach time up to the first crag Blubber Wall can take up to 1 hr 30 minutes. Fitness Cave is another 10 minutes up the gully.

Summary:

40 routes in Cliff

<5 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.950191, -100.473842

descripción

The first deep canyon on the left (east) side as you enter the Potrero.

Summary:

27 routes in Cliff

<5 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.950681, -100.475821

descripción

The 2nd canyon on the left side as you enter the Potrero, it is much shallower than the Los Lobos canyon on its left or Estrellas canyon to its right.

Summary:

73 routes in Cliff

<5 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.949762, -100.474868

descripción

The Estrellas canyon is the 2nd deep canyon on the left (east) side of the Potrero as you enter.

Summary:

27 routes in Cliff

Suave <5 min Sol por la tarde

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.949433, -100.475639

descripción

A small south-facing wall that is on the eastern side of the canyon. A good introductory set of single-pitch climbs. Great place for 5.10 climbers.

Morning/Evening Shade, Afternoon Sun

Summary:

16 routes in Cliff

Caminata pronunciada 20-30 min Sol por la tarde

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.948853, -100.474924

descripción

A very varied wall with easier and slabby routes down low, some multi-pitch routes and vertical routes on pocketed limestone higher up. The higher section stays in the shade most of the day in December / January but the climbs are in the sun in mid / late afternoon.

Acceso

Hike up like for Mini Super and continue along the cliff, you will first reach some easier slabby but nice routes on dark grey rock. Continue higher up on a partially steep path to reach the next routes until you reach a small plateau for more pocketed routes. Hike down a few meters for the last routes and to continue to The Conundrums.

Summary:

9 routes in Cliff

Acceso escalando 45-60 min

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: 25.948420, -100.474712

descripción

This is the high hanging canyon across from the tin pavilion and above the wave. It is in the corner between TNT Wall and The Conundrums, accessed just left of "Cyclops", the 5.13a.

Acceso

Climb "Argos", or the first pitch of "Kotu Mundi" or "Sandra" in "The Conundrums".

Summary:

1 route in Area

Acceso escalando 1-2 horas Sombra todo el día

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.947315, -100.472944

Resumen

This canyon, located above The Vatican, is about the size of Estrellas, and has a similar amount of quality-looking rock, but almost no established routes. Due to how narrow the canyon is, both walls get all-day shade (at least during winter).

Acceso

From The Vatican, either climb Jesus Caballero, or climb Sandra P2 and follow the fixed line left and down a bit to reach the bottom of the canyon. Either way, rap JC to get back down to The Vatican.

On the hike up to the top of the canyon (where the only currently established route is), you will encounter three steep sections with fixed ropes. The middle one is bolted as a short 5.8 pitch, so you can climb and/or rap it on your own rope if you'd prefer. The total time from the bottom of the canyon to the top will be around 45 minutes, give or take depending on hiking fitness and whether you stop to belay on the 5.8.

Summary:

14 routes in Cliff

Caminata pronunciada 20-30 min Sombra todo el día

Escalada deportiva, Escalada clásica y Escalada en tope rope

Lat / Long: 25.948089, -100.474968

descripción

This area is directly above "The Wave" and is marked by a long black streak. Most routes are multi-pitch routes on grey and dark grey rock but the wall also features a great 5.13a (Cyclops) on its left side. In winter most of this wall stays in the shade all day.

Acceso

Either hike over from TNT Wall or take another path passing the wave up the hill.

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

<5 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.948327, -100.475467

descripción

This wall is the obvious wave-shaped formation that sits below the TNT, Vatican, and Condundrums walls on the east side of the Canyon.

Descenso

When rappelling these routes make sure to watch the rope on them. 70 meter ropes are required.

Summary:

64 routes in Cliff

Suave 5-10 min Sol por la tarde

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.947066, -100.475551

descripción

This is the large expanse of rock facing southwards into the Potrero on the east-side. It starts out just above the aroyo, and extends up to obvious bend i the wall characterized by a steep orange bulge topped by a gray bulb -- or from the road to about 400m up the wall.

Acceso

This crag is located in the back of the Potrero Chico area. Walk through the canyon to the back past the cattle guard. After crossing the cattle guard cross over the arroyo on the left and this is the bottom of the big wall that is the backside of El Potrero Chico.

Summary:

44 routes in Cliff

10-20 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.945762, -100.473801

descripción

This is the upper section of the wall, hike farther up and in.

Summary:

22 routes in Cliff

10-20 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.947465, -100.477715

descripción

The obvious pair of spires on the right side, past the cattle gate.

Acceso

Walk past the cattle gate to hobo camp, then follow the blue trail up to the right towards the Outrage wall, and turn left at the red trail.

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

Apto para perros Apto para niños Caminata pronunciada Fisura Diedro Placa 30-45 min nordeste Tumbado Sol por la mañana

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.947088, -100.479912

descripción

The Dihedrals are the obvious set of dihedrals up and left of "The Outrage Wall". Despite the name, lots of crack climbing and tricky slabs.

Acceso

Take the trail up towards the spires, and go up and over the saddle above the spires, then continue upwards and left.

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Apto para perros Caminata pronunciada sur sureste 30-45 min Desplome Sol por la mañana

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.947362, -100.480051

descripción

The shallow cave right of "The Dihedrals", high up on the wall behind "The Spires" with great steep climbing on tufas. The bottom of the "bowl" is quite dusty. Shade arrives in the afternoon from the left, the rightmost routes are in the sun till mid afternoon in winter.

Acceso

Take the trail up towards the spires, and go up and over the saddle above the spires, then continue upwards.

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Caminata pronunciada 30-45 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.947663, -100.479980

descripción

Vegetated buttress between "The Surf Bowl" and "The Outrage Wall" with one of the longest climbs in Potrero Chico.

Summary:

48 routes in Cliff

Caminata pronunciada 10-20 min Sol todo el día

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.948418, -100.478156

descripción

The black and white streaked orange overhanging wall on the inside of the Potrero, on the west side with many, mostly harder, single and multi-pitch routes.

Acceso

Pass the cattle guard and after about 30m take a right up the hill following a well marked path. There are wooden signs indicating the way to The Outrage Wall, The Spires and the sectors higher up.

Summary:

27 routes in Cliff

Llano <5 min sureste Tumbado Vertical Sol de mediodía

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.948554, -100.476951

descripción

This cliff is one of the easiest to find -- it is the big vegetated slab behind the tin pavilion.

Several of EPC's classic multi-pitch go up this wall.

Acceso

Step over the aqueduct and walk past the (mostly) abandoned picnic area.

Summary:

22 routes in Cliff

Llano <5 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.949287, -100.476534

descripción

This is the large clean buttress on your right after you pass the Pool Area and fenced off base of "The Virgin Canyon". It runs until the big tree against the wall on the aqueduct.

Acceso

Step off the road, over the aqueduct. You could, if you had actually driven to EPC (or up to the Potrero from camp) actually belay most of these routes from your car.

Summary:

95 routes in Cliff

Suave 5-10 min

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.950027, -100.478671

descripción

This is the first deep canyon on the right as you walk into the park, just past the swimming pools.

Walls are ordered left-right along the canyon, when facing the side of the canyon that wall is on. (That is, clockwise around the canyon, starting with the first wall on the lowest point of the left (north-facing) side of the canyon.

Due to the easy approach (up stairs), the abundance of good climbs, and the tendency to be shaded, the lower walls of the Virgin canyon are very popular, and can be quite busy on weekend days as locals come out to climb them.

Acceso

Enter the pools and walk up the stairs. Or, walk to the left side of the canyon and step up around the edge of the chain link fence and up the path.

If walking up the stairs, you will hit the north wall of the canyon at "Cat Wall" when you first get to a rock wall. If you don't enter at the pools, but by cutting aorund the end of the fence, you'll be at the "Surf Board" wall.

Summary:

17 routes in Cliff

Suave 5-10 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.950162, -100.476951

descripción

This is the wall across the back of the picnic area above the pools, with BBQs along its base. It is the first wall to the right along the front-side of the Potrero.

Be very careful on this wall, especially on the upper pitches of any mulit-pitch routes, when the pools and picnic/BBQ area is busy. Any rock fall could hurt locals, including children, who will not be looking for or expecting rock fall. (In fact, it is probably best to not climb anything multi-pitch on this wall if the pools and picnicing is at all busy.)

Esta pared se encuentra en la parte trasera de las albercas. En la base hay varios asadores.

Hay que tener mucho cuidado de no tirar piedras en los multi-largos.

Acceso

Walk up past the pools and BBQs to the obvious wall.

Entras por las albercas y caminas a la izquoerda subiendo rumbo a la pared mas cercana

Summary:

65 routes in Cliff

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: 25.951806, -100.480700

descripción

This is the beautiful main wall that you see from the campgrounds, right of the narrow opening into the Potrero proper. The tallest peak, approximately in the centre, is "El Toro".

As you look at it, the leftmost silhouetted ridge is the route of "Monster Truck". Closer than this, and running lower than it for most of the climb is a 2nd ridge that goes up to the central (El Toro) peak -- that is "The Scariest Ride in the Park".

Acceso

Varies from sector to sector.

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

1-2 horas

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.955877, -100.487165

descripción

A saddle in the rock west (right when facing the Potrero) of "Buzz Rock".

Acceso

To get to this crag you need to take the same approach trail for Land of The Free, Plutonia Cave, Buzz Rock. Where the trail splits left and uphill for Land of the Free and Plutonia you instead continue towards Buzz Rock. About 20 meters past that split in the trail is another split. Take this left split up hill into the gully to the left of Buzz Rock. Follow the rock cairns up the gully for a long ways.

Summary:

10 routes in Crag

Suave 20-30 min Permitido Abandonado Sol todo el día Mojado con lluvia

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.955772, -100.481833

Resumen

April-May: Sun starts hitting the wall at 9:30am and it bakes it until 3:30 or so, the it gets shade again.

descripción

Buzz Rock is the small, dome-shaped outcrop located north of El Toro.

Alojamiento

Homero's, La posada, La pagoda,etc. are all really close to this crag.

Summary:

4 routes in Cliff

10-20 min

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: 25.952573, -100.479217

descripción

This is the seperate "dunce cap" shaped spire in front of the Potrero proper, on the right side of the road.

Not many routes, not very good rock, and a longish approach leave this not being climbed very often.

The routes here are all on some of the worst quality rock in Potrero Chico. Highly recommended not to be climbed.

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

357 routes in Crag

Caliza Potencial de nuevas vías

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.379966, -100.264638

Resumen

El Salto is a sport climber’s paradise in Nuevo León. Steep limestone walls extend out of the massive canyons in the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range.

descripción

The various cliffs and sectors are offering everything from techy face climbing to steep tufa-pinching to roof climbing through caves. There are hundreds of climbs in El Salto, concentrated at different crags, mostly in 2 main canyons: Animas Wall and the The Cave in the main canyon (El Salto) and La Boca, the smaller side canyon with the Main Wall and multiple smaller sectors, and Cumbia Cave (listed here as a separate area as the access is different). Additional smaller areas are spread throughout the canyons as well, and the potential for further development is huge.

Acceso

Drive through the town named "Cienega de Gonzalez", there is no clear sign with the town's name so make sure to ask. About 3/4 through "Cienega de Gonzales" you'll find a little chapel to your left, make a right turn there onto a dirt road that leads you into the canyon. Keep driving/walking unlit you find "Las Animas" wall. You will need a 4x4 vehicle to get to the wall. A lot of climbers do walk from "Cienega de Gonzalez" to the wall, it's just a 30 minute walk.

Alojamiento

You could ask to stay at Kika's place, any of the other camps in Cienega de Gonzalez or camp anywhere you like. There is good camping spots at "La Boca" canyon.

Ética

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

Arenoso Izquierda a derecha Caliza 10-20 min Tolerado Vertical Frágil cuando mojada Sol por la mañana Caminata pronunciada Apto para perros suroeste Potencial de nuevas vías Arbustos Principiantes Refugios

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.356157, -100.313627

descripción

Una pared de piedra caliza ubicada en el lado derecho de la carretera cuando te diriges hacia Cilantrillo. Actualmente, hay tres rutas establecidas, pero la zona tiene el potencial de desarrollar alrededor de 5 o 6 rutas más. La cara de la roca tiene dos lados; el principal es visible desde la carretera, y en ese lado, puedes encontrar una ruta increíblemente placentera. Por favor, ten cuidado con las pinturas rupestres ubicadas en el centro de la cueva.

La segunda cara está en el lado derecho, frente a las cabañas 'EL WEREKE'. En este lado, hay dos rutas, una con anclajes mecánicos y la otra con epoxi. Además, si caminas hasta la cima de la pared a lo largo de un sendero no muy definido, encontrarás anclajes para rappel. Estos anclajes se dejaron para el desarrollo de más rutas. La zona fue establecida en septiembre de 2023, y el trabajo aún está en curso.

Acceso

Para acceder a la zona, es necesario descender al río a través de un terreno marcado por un asador rojo, en ese terreno hay unas escaleras para descender al río y posteriormente subir a la pared. Alternativamente, pueden desviarse justo antes de las cabañas 'Las Guacamayas' y tomar el sendero junto al río. Posteriormente, sigue un sendero zigzagueante y avanza hacia la pared. Si llegas a la cara principal, encontrarás hermosas pinturas rupestres, y la ruta en esa cara está ubicada en el lado izquierdo de las pinturas.

Si continúas ascendiendo por el sendero (a la derecha de las pinturas rupestres), descubrirás la segunda cara de la pared. En este lado, puedes encontrar dos rutas. Para acceder a esta pared, puedes rodear una roca prominente o ascender por una roca de losa, y verás las rutas en el lado izquierdo.

Historia

La zona se desarrolló por Brian Sánchez, Eduardo Mijares, Milton P., Sebastián Landeros, Israel Mata, Luis Carlos García y Luis Esquer por un curso de armado impartido por Luis Carlos García.

Summary:

167 routes in Crag

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.391022, -100.241974

Resumen

This is the main canyon with the major cliff Las Animas and Tecolote Cave but also with loads of smaller sectors distributed throughout the canyon.

descripción

This canyon can be quite busy on the weekends as it is then mostly frequented by off-road and ATV-owners enjyoing their toys. It might be wise to escape to other areas on Saturday afternoon and Sunday.

Acceso

From Cienga de Gonzales hike or drive down into the river bed and head into the canyon on the road. A 4x4 is recommended when driving.

Summary:

145 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.386276, -100.230321

Resumen

The side canyon right of the main canyon when looking at it from the village. A beautiful and quiet place with climbing on the obvious Main Wall but also on multiple smaller sectors.

descripción

Este cañón se encuentra al sur este del cañón 'El Salto'. Para llegar se puede caminar desde Ciénega de Gonzalez.

Acceso

Caminar 20 min de Doña Kika hacia el cañon

From town, turn right just south of Kika's at a red arrow. You can follow a dirt road almost to the wall or hike for about 10 min from the creek bed if your car doesn't have clearance.

Alojamiento

En el cañón se puede acampar, es un lugar muy bonito de clima y vejetacion boscoso

Summary:

42 routes in Cliff

Llano <5 min Sol por la tarde

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.390538, -100.256507

descripción

Cueva a un lado de la carretera ,ubicada enfrente del "El Salto Crag Ground climber campground" Roadside Cave located across the street from "El Salto Crag Ground climber campground" official Morning shade Crag all year round.

Acceso

located passed La Cienega de Gonzalez 1 km further from it ,Park on the side of the road and walk 10 seconds.

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

10 routes in Area

Suave 45-60 min Privado

Escalada deportiva, Búlder y otros estilos

Lat / Long: 26.159712, -100.790753

Resumen

La popa es una pared de unos 500 metros de altura, y 3 kilómetros de largo, con cara norte y sur. Hay 2 multi-largos y mucho potencial de otras, pero lo característico es su potencial para boulder.

descripción

Hay dos principales secciones de boulders sueltos, unos al suroeste de la popa, y otros al este.

restricciones

El carro se deja en el terreno privado de un señor, y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho, y ya atrás del rancho directo a los boulders.

Acceso

Para llegar a los boulders del sur, se va por la carretera pasando Mina Nuevo NL, luego justo antes del restaurant El Oasis (en 26.1145074025231, -100.64737197156748) se mete por el camino a la izquierda. Continúa por el camino como por media hora, eventualmente viendo la pop a tu derecha, hasta llegar a un terreno privado del lado derecho con una rejita y un anuncio amarillo. Es terreno privado pero el dueño permite estacionar ahí, pero de todos modos por cortesía comentarle. El carro se deja en el terreno y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho por el lado derecho, y ya atrás del rancho se camina directo a los boulders entre veredillas espinosas, apuntando más o menos a una formación rocosa roja que es como el centro y tiene los boulders al rededor.

Summary:

5 routes in Area

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 26.143760, -100.768657

Acceso

Para llegar a los boulders del sur, se va por la carretera pasando Mina Nuevo NL, luego justo antes del restaurant El Oasis (en 26.1145074025231, -100.64737197156748) se mete por el camino a la izquierda. Continúa por el camino como por media hora, eventualmente viendo la pop a tu derecha, hasta llegar a un terreno privado del lado derecho con una rejita y un anuncio amarillo. Es terreno privado pero el dueño permite estacionar ahí, pero de todos modos por cortesía comentarle. El carro se deja en el terreno y luego se camina tantito rodeando su rancho por el lado derecho, y ya atrás del rancho se camina directo a los boulders entre veredillas espinosas, apuntando más o menos a una formación rocosa roja que es como el centro y tiene los boulders al rededor.

Summary:

1 route in Field

Suave 30-45 min

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 26.155849, -100.810338

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

Caliza

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: 26.165100, -100.783979

Acceso

Approach from above near San Jose de La Popa or from below near the town of Los Remotos.

It is also HIGHLY recommended to drive to San Jose De La Popa, and hike up through the back. Hiring a burro in the town is also an option. Then rappelling to the base through El Gavilán to avoid cacti/bush waking for hours through the desert. You can also drive up this hike if you have a very capable 4x4 vehicle.

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

31 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.958703, -100.596328

Resumen

High quality desert limestone, a lot of friction and smooth with your skin.

descripción

This is about 30 minutes northwest from "El Potrero Chico", on a different formation. Also lots of room for development.

Acceso

Walk uphill from the parking area on the obvious trail that zig-zags up straight to the wall

Summary:

30 routes in Crag

Lat / Long: 25.958971, -100.596276

descripción

This is the main crag in this area. From the parking area follow the zig zagging trail up to the very obvious cave feature.

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Lat / Long: 25.952013, -100.587814

descripción

Technically this crag is not part of Culo de Gato, but is another buttress in the same formation.

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

25 routes in Crag

30-45 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.303304, -100.133577

Resumen

Total steepness... Roofs, 45 degree overhangs, long sustained routes, tufas, stalactites, no hands rests, kneebars, heelhooks, toehooks and lots of fun.

descripción

Cueva de Cumbia is a cave with overhung routs ranging from 5.12 to 5.13, there are some 5.11 though. The climbs here have lots of features like giant tufas and holes.

Acceso

To get to the cave you must know how to get to Las Adjuntas first. From Las Adjuntas walk about 200 meters downstream and look for a little ramp that goes uphill to your left. Go up straight trending to the right, once you reach the very corner of the property there is the beginning of the trail. They are charging 100 pesos per person to use the cave. Within meters you have to jump over a fence that crosses the trail, you will follow the trail until you reach a sort of undeveloped boulder/wall which continues with another path. Look for a path that diverges down in front of this wall. This path continues until you reach a creek with a water source. Until here the path is very well marked, but here is where it gets tricky. 10 meters before reaching the creek, there is a trail that goes up the hill very steep, it is very hard to see thanks to how there has not been much activity in the cave and vegetation has grown strongly along the trail. Some maintenance is long overdue. Here I leave a wikiloc path of how I got there, hope it helps.

https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/camino-a-la-cueva-de-la-cumbia-87451357

Alojamiento

There are some good camping spots near the start of the trail, or you can stay with Lalo. (Last right house before the main bridge)

Ética

Dateeee

Historia

Mark Grundon and Rodrigo Garza found this cave on 2013 and were the firsts to set routs here. The place is still in development, lots of room for more climbs.

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Lat / Long: 25.302592, -100.134066

descripción

Esta es la primer pared semidesplomada a la que llegas. unos 20 mts adelante hay una pequeña cueva donde hay 3 rutas. Sigue caminando hacia la derecha por una vereda unos 50mts para llegar al segundo sector.

Acceso

Del puente caminas rio abajo unos 200 mts hasta ver una subida a la izquierda para llegar a unas zonas donde hay unos techos y mesas. De ahi subes derecho rodeando una piedra de como 5 metros de alto. Subes un poco mas y donde se hace plano le das a la derecha y ahi se ve el inicio de la vereda.

Summary:

18 routes in Sector

Lat / Long: 25.303819, -100.133212

descripción

Este es el segundo sector y el mas grande, aquí es donde están las rutas mas largas de la cueva

Acceso

Para llegar tienes que pasar la cueva donde esta el techo horizontal en el primer sector y bajas por una vereda muy angosta hasta llegar al segundo sector que te queda hacia arriba a la izquierda.

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26 routes in Crag

<5 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.570925, -100.314690

Resumen

El diente: cueva 1: cueva nino de cobre , sector el manantial, cueva 2: cueva del leproso, sector , dos cascadas, cueva 3: cueva del esclavo , gran pared de diente, pared sector : Los anunnaki.

descripción

El cañón del Diente cuenta con varias formaciones rocosas muy exóticas y paradisíacas. Las cuevas y paredes son de caliza y todas están repletas de tufas y chorreras de buenisima calidad. En la sombra se puede escalar incluso en días muy calientes. Los paisajes y vistas y el sentimiento de exposición en la mayoria de las rutas hacen que este lugar sea mágico y te desconecta de todas tus preocupaciones cotidianas.Tienes que venir a escalar a este lugar!

restricciones

El cañón del diente se encuentra detrás de una propiedad privada que indebidamente obstruye el camino que lleva hasta este lugar. El Camino Al diente es una servidumbre de paso y bien de dominio publico, usa el camino a tu criterio personal o camina por el rio si lo prefieres!

Acceso

Para llegar se tienen que cruzar una caceta de seguridad donde se debe dejar una identificación, continuas por el camino y de terraceria hasta llegar a un segundo portón gris donde comienza la propiedad privada, a partir de ahí se sigue el arrollo hasta llegar al diente.

Alojamiento

Se puede acampar en cualquier planicie que encuentren a no mas de 10 metros del rió, esto para no invadir propiedad privada. Dentro del canon se puede acampar en cualquier lugar, antes del canon solo se puede acampar en la zona federal!

Ética

No dejar basura, no rayar paredes ni piedras, no hacer fogatas, no llevar perros. Area natural protegida dentro del parque nacional Cumbres de Monterrey. Ser amable con Los guardias y vigilantes que custodian el camino y la propiedad colindante al diente.

Historia

Antiguo pueblo conocido como :Mineral de San Pedro y San Pablo.(pueblo magico desaparecido )

Summary:

24 routes in Unknown

20-30 min

Lat / Long: 25.571431, -100.313987

descripción

Es la cueva principal del diente.

Summary:

1 route in Sector

20-30 min

Lat / Long: 25.571510, -100.313199

descripción

Está antes de llegar a la cueva del Leproso, del lado derecho del río. Del otro lado del río hay un manantial que atraviesa el río con una manguera negra, se puede tomar el agua.

Summary:

1 route in Unknown

30-45 min

Lat / Long: 25.570618, -100.314579

descripción

Esta atrás de la cueva del Leproso

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

11 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.526245, -100.163686

Resumen

Arch cave formation. White limestone with lots of tufas. Helmets advised.

Acceso

Long but easy approach. Walking time approximate 1.5 hours (4 km)

Historia

This arch cave formation has long been know to hikers who started referring to it as Cerro Agujerado (bored hill) and hence the name. Just recently did this cave got the attention of local climbers (to much surprise) who have been developing and setting routs for sport climbers.

Summary:

9 routes in Sector

Summary:

2 routes in Sector

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Estacionalidad

25 routes in Crag

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 24.884447, -100.094234

descripción

Es una zona con rutas desde 5.10 a 5.13. La carretera pasa por encima del puente natural de roca en donde se escala.

Summary:

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12 routes in Crag

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.850899, -100.530431

Resumen

Starting crag with about 11 routes

descripción

This area is located 100 meters before the Grutas de García complex.

Acceso

park and walk a few minutes to the farthest routes, and there are some routes right on the edge of the road.

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 25.851120, -100.531329

Resumen

Pared que esta arriba de las ultimas rutas de la zona de garcia, continuas el hike pasando las ultimas rutas (mas facil que mi vecina).

descripción

Segunda zona desarollada de garcia. La pared es visible desde la calle, arriba pasando la primera zona de escalada.

Summary:

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Estacionalidad

14 routes in Crag

45-60 min

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.036483, -99.936627

Resumen

Steep overhanging wall with white tufas.

restricciones

No issues, small parking spot.

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Llano Derecha a izquierda 20-30 min Permitido Sol por la mañana

Lat / Long: 25.036929, -99.938418

descripción

First area of the wall, it is formed by a flat area, a rain waterfall and a small cave perfect for camping, but it only fits two small tents. Since there are not water sources in the Cueva del Oso, this is the ideal place to camp since it is about half the hike to the cave. There are currently four routes in the area, one outside the cave and the rest inside.

Historia

The area was discover by Gerardo Tomás and Rodrigo Garza when the took a detour, since the old trail to the cave went by the left of the place.

Summary:

3 routes in Sector

30-45 min Permitido Sol por la mañana Mojado con lluvia Abandonado

Lat / Long: 25.036566, -99.937107

descripción

The section of the wall between the Frente del Norte Sector and the Cueva del Oso. Mainly a vertical wall although some parts can have inclination. most of the routes are in this sector.

Summary:

2 routes in Sector

Caminata pronunciada Derecha a izquierda 45-60 min Permitido Sombra todo el día Seco cuando llueve Protegido del viento

Lat / Long: 25.036224, -99.935415

descripción

Sector of the Cueva del Oso, made by two caves, a small one with two exits and a massive one also with two exits.

Acceso

All the routes in the area have a very easy approach.

Historia

The main cave is know as Cueva de los Portales by the locals.

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18 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.377851, -100.309904

Resumen

Close proximity to El Salto and offer climbing right off the road 20.

descripción

San Isidro Canyon is with in a 15 min drive from the El Salto area and many bolted lines start right off the road. Recommend visiting during the week or visit during the weekend to exscape the sound of four wheelers.

Acceso

Drive north of the El Salto area then park and climb.

Alojamiento

Pedregal de San Juan or Cabins Paso de Lobos

Ética

While some sport is established, lots of trad remains unclimbed

Summary:

16 routes in Crag

Lat / Long: 25.385990, -100.306221

descripción

Es la pared mas cercana a la carretera. Justo donde empieza la pared hay un arroyo a lo largo de la base de la pared. Es un poco incomodo para dar seguro y mantener las cuerdas secas.

Summary:

1 route in Sector

Lat / Long: 25.385412, -100.306146

descripción

The wall next to the road. Be careful with traffic and be mindful of rockfall.

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Lat / Long: 25.376583, -100.312851

descripción

Sobre la carretera, una de las paredes mas bonitas y accesibles de la zona.

Acceso

La curva antes de llegar a la pared viniendo desde la CDG, del lado derecho hay una pequeña subida corta. Menos de un minto de caminata.

Historia

Primera ruta armada por Alvaro Basich julio 2023

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1 route in Area

Permitido Sol por la tarde Sol de mediodía

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.696377, -100.401766

Resumen

Sueños de Recepción se encuentra en el cerro de las Mitras y su acceso es cercano al Pico del Agua, subiendo aproximadamente 800 metros de desnivel en 4km de distancia. Un hike de 2 horas aprox.

Acceso

Hike Pico del Agua.

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 25.694851, -100.399998

Resumen

Primera zona desarrollada de la Pared, del lado derecho viendo hacia el Norte.

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Caminata pronunciada Caliza 3+ horas Permitido

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.628562, -100.239991

descripción

The most iconic hill of Monterrey, has 4 main peaks: La Antena, Pico Norte, Pico Sur and Loma de la Virgen. Pico Norte being the tallest at 1821 msl.

Historia

It has been decreed as a Natural Monument since 1991.

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Lat / Long: 25.625877, -100.244135

descripción

Tallest peak of the hill at 1821 msl.

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2 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.377687, -100.397509

Resumen

Un pico cerca de San José de las Boquillas al filo del limite del estado de NL.

descripción

Hermoso lugar lleno de posibilidades para escalada de alta montaña. La Gloria por el momento tiene 2 Rutas principales de increíble calidad. El armador principal Zach Clanton junto con Amigos como Dave Henkel abrieron estas lineas totalmente deportivas.

Acceso

There are two different ways to get to the “Gateway”. Through a washed gully or through the donkey trails. We include both ways.

Donkey trail: (Boby & Sebas Beta)

Follow the Ridgeline donkey trail until you reach a more vertical wall, take a left and look for a blue rope. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-gloria-climbing-basecamp-94160453

Gully access: (Zachs beta)

From the parking area (25.36403, -100.39747), follow the driveway down to the creek with yellow irrigation pipes and a lone Boulder off to your left in an apple orchard area. Cross the creek and head right towards the entrance of the main drainage. - Head up this dry creek for 2/3 of the hike staying right at any point of question. There are rock cairns at one obvious fork. Don't get sucked into any of the donkey trails that traverse the wash! - Eventually, after ascending a series of 10 to 15m slab steps, you will start finding cairns. At the top of the final gully slab with a large cairn, trend up and right following cairns to a short 5.5 step.
Above the step, you enter another rough wash that leads up to a series of zig zags through ledges and slabs. Keep following cairns but choose your own adventure if you get off route. - Eventually, you will traverse far right to the "Gateway". Marked by a cairn, this serves as the lone entrance for the final ramps and steps that lead to the base of La Gloria.
Once you have found the “Gateway” take the left trending ramp up to the Pika Step where you will find a short rope hanging from a two-bolt anchor. Climb the wide crack, top out, and traverse right for 15m before heading up to the final slab.
Climb the 25m 5.3 slab and ramp system up to another two-bolt rappel anchor (both rappel anchors on the approach are not actually needed in dry conditions but serve as emergency rappel anchors in the event of a climber becoming injured or if a rain storm sneaks up on you. Downclimbing these sections could be potentially very dangerous in certain circumstances and if anything, the bolts act as excellent trail markers in a place where it’s easy to get lost!)
Once you reach the top of the final rappel anchor, you are on the home stretch. Angle up and left on another series of ramps, sidewalks, and slabs (aiming for the base of the route) until you reach a section of loose gravel-like trail that brings you to the bivy.

This can take from 1:30 to 5 hours depending on how light you are and how well you find the trail.

Alojamiento

Muy recomendado hacer esta aventura en 3 dias. Uno para subir, uno para escalar y descender la ruta y otro para hacer la caminata de bajada.

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.265118, -100.161111

Resumen

Pueblo pequeño en santiago conocido por la Cascada Chipitin.

descripción

Mucha piedra de calidad variante, mucho por desarrollar.

restricciones

Pagas 50 pesos para bajar a la cascada.

Acceso

Subiendo cola de caballo, bajas en puerto genovevo, manejas a las adjuntas, te sigues derecho y lleggas a Potrero Redondo.

Alojamiento

Hay muchos Camping y Cabañas que rentan.

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 25.264509, -100.151529

Resumen

Una sistema de cuevas justo arriba de la cascada Chipitin.

descripción

Dos cuevas de gran tamaño con muchísimas tufas y chorreaderas. Se llama cueva de La Nube gracias a como algunas tufas en ciertas temporadas gotean, al igual de como algunas tufas de gran tamaño llueven al abrir rutas. Increíble inclinación y calidad de roca variante. Una gran aventura para quien quiera desarrollar una zona tan única como esta. Originalmente desarrollada por Boby Drum en 2022.

restricciones

Pagas 50 pesos para bajar a la cascada.

Acceso

Llegas a la cascada y por el filo izuiqerdo vas subiendo hacia el rappel. Ahi estara una cuerda roja. Puedes usarla para jummarear o todavia mejor a medio camio parte un camino de lado izquiero que hace el acceso mucho mas simple.

Resumen

Zona dentro del Cañon ojo de agua de Bustamante, esta a orilla de carretera por lo que hay que tener cuidado con los coches al asegurar..

descripción

De la entrada al parque cañon ojo de agua de Bustamante son 5 minutos en coche, cerca de las albercas

restricciones

Puede haber restricccion para entrar en epoca concurrida, hay que pagar couta por persona para hacer uso de las instalaciones del cañon y por ende pasar a la zona de escalada

Acceso

Puede haber restricccion para entrar en epoca concurrida, hay que pagar couta por persona para hacer uso de las instalaciones del cañon y por ende pasar a la zona de escalada

Alojamiento

Camping en los parajes designados, hay agua corriendo donde te puedes dar un baño al finalizar .

Resumen

Zona cercana a las albercas del cañon

descripción

cresta arriba de la zona de albercas

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Estacionalidad

14 routes in Area

Todo Búlder

Lat / Long: 25.667475, -100.365676

Resumen

Parque público con vitapista, área de ciclismo y patinetas, laguito, y zona de boulder.

descripción

Parque justo al lado del morones prieto a la altura de calzada san pedro. Son 2 bloques artificiales de concreto en los que se puede boulderear.

restricciones

Abierto a todo el público

Acceso

Nos estacionamos sobre morones porque están pavimentando por la colonia, pero se deben de poder estacionar del lado de residencial en días normales.

Resumen

Mostly boulder, semi-outdoor gym with gear store. Climbing and Yoga lessons for adults and children

descripción

Great place to climb, with an excellent coach, and really good vibes.

Resumen

Afiliado a Asociasion de Excursionismo, Montañismo y Escalada del estado de Nuevo Leon

descripción

seguimos escalando en el muro de escalada mas alto de toda la zona norte de México !!!!

Lunes. Miércoles y Viernes Horario: 7:30pm a 10:00pm

Acceso

Avenida Ruiz Cortines, esquina con Avenida Gonzalitos, Monterrey, Nuevo León.

Historia

Inaugurado en 1991

Resumen

Lic. Benito Juárez Nte. 326, Casco Urbano, 66230 San Pedro Garza García, N.L.

Instagram: @piconorte

Resumen

Plaza Omnia, Carr Nacional km. 267-#1000, Col. El Uro, 64987 Monterrey, N.L.

Instagram: @sierraelevation

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Estacionalidad

27 routes in Area

Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 25.382859, -100.190472

descripción

Sector nuevo en desarrollo. Se comenzó su desarrollo en 2024.

Se caracteriza por tener un estilo único en la zona. Regletas y crimps en paredes ligeramente desplomadas. Bombeo en las cadenas garantizado.

Dado que el sector sigue en desarrollo, es necesario llevar casco en todo momento y tener cuidado con la caída de rocas. Tener cuidado en los acercamientos de no tirar piedras a los que vayan abajo.

Acceso

Parte en coche:

En la carretera que baja al La Ciénega, tomar una salida a la derecha marcada como "La Botella". Después de un par de curvas, continuar por la izquierda (para no entrar en el parque "la botella"). Continuar por el camino por 5 minutos hasta llegar a la segunda curva pronunciada a la derecha (25.386569, -100.214431). En la curva hay espacio para estacionar un par de coches. Cualquier coche puede llegar a este punto, pero si está muy mojado tal vez tengas que estacionarte antes.

Parte caminando (30-35 mins):

Desde el estacionamiento subir por la ladera formada por la curva en un camino muy marcado hacia el norte. Continuar por este camino unos 13 minutos hasta tomar una desviación ligera a la izquierda de roca que lleva al mirador "puerto gringo".

Continuar por el camino marcado otros 15 minutos hasta llegar a un claro.

Bajar los últimos minutos por un camino de bajada marcado por un letrero que dice "oso negro" (puede ser que quiten este letrero) el camino es más estrecho pero marcado. Después de un par de minutos el camino se va hacia la derecha, alejándose de la pared, en esta parte no hay que continuar por este camino, sino que hay que bajar por un camino menos marcado pero que sigue bajando. Después de un par de minutos tendrás el primer sector del lado izquierdo.

Summary:

18 routes in Sector

Lat / Long: 25.383152, -100.191266

descripción

Placa ligeramente desplomada. La pared se caracteriza por tener regletas y crimps principalmente. Generalmente es difícil distinguir los agarres buenos de los malos conforme vas escalando, pero casi siempre hay un agarre bueno que hay que encontrar. Increíbles líneas técnicas y bombeadoras de dificultad intermedia.

Summary:

5 routes in Sector

Lat / Long: 25.382951, -100.190408

descripción

Increíble pared que se asoma por arriba de la ladera. Vistas increíbles de la sierra. Las rutas se encuentran en una repisa rocosa. Tener cuidado de no tirar piedras al moverse de ruta a ruta.

Acceso

Desde el primer sector (3 mins), continuar bajando por la pared hasta que encuentras una ladera de piedras a la izquierda. Subir por las piedras con cuidado hasta encontrar un bloque con una cuerda fija para subir a la repisa.

Summary:

4 routes in Sector

Nuevo León Guide

Table of contents

1. Nuevo León

1.1. La Huasteca

1.1.1. La Zona Roja del Paco

1.1.2. Pico Licos

1.1.3. Las Rejas

1.1.4. Cazuelas

1.1.5. Parque Uno

1.1.6. La Lulu

1.1.7. Pico Independencia (izq) y Pico Pirineos (der).

1.1.8. Cueva de la Virgencita

1.1.9. Las Hienas

1.1.10. La Martha

1.1.11. Juan de Dios

1.1.12. La casa del Doctor

1.1.13. Lagrimas y Sonrisas

1.1.14. Torre Diablos

1.1.15. Los Gatos

1.1.16. La Navaja

1.1.17. La Extremita

1.1.18. Zona Extrema

1.1.19. Pico Tatewari (Abuelo Fuego)

1.1.20. Guitarritas

1.1.21. curva antes de medicos

1.1.22. Pared V

1.1.23. Medicos

1.1.24. Pico Negro

1.1.25. Cañon de San Judas (San Judas canyon)

1.1.26. Boulders Cañon San Bartolo

1.1.27. Las minis

1.1.28. Las Puchas

1.1.29. Bestia Cave

1.1.30. The Wall

1.1.31. Cañon de la Rompepicos

1.1.32. Boulders La Rompe Picos

1.1.33. Ray Bar

1.1.34. Presa El Pajonal

1.1.35. Los Perros

1.1.36. La Sandia

1.1.37. Boulders El Pajonal

1.2. El Potrero Chico

1.2.1. Fitness Canyon

1.2.2. Canon de los Lobos

1.2.3. El Fin De Semana

1.2.4. Las Estrellas

1.2.5. Mini Super

1.2.6. TNT Wall

1.2.7. The Vatican