El Salto; C.d.G. Guide

Ruta en la cara principal de la zona (cara visible desde la carretera). Empieza con un ligero slab, sube a una pequeña cueva en dónde se puede descansar, posteriormente sigue hacia la derecha por un slab y un muy buen descanso, después sigue por una grieta bien marcada hasta la reunión. La piedra se vuelve algo areniza en la sección de la grieta.

Primer ruta de izquierda a derecha de la segunda cara de la zona. Ubicada en una grieta marcada.

Comienza la ruta por un recoveco amplio, hacia una zona con tufas pequeñas y roca suave, es mejor escalar por la izquierda. La pared se vuelve como placa pero con buena adherencia. Buena para calentar!!

Ruta con reunión incompleta.

Multilargo de 3 largos.

Left most route. Three roofs and a run out headwall at the top. Belayer beware. Full anchors.

Extension of Almost Believe That They're Real. Continue past the first anchors through the roof and thin headwall up top to full anchors.

Start on the right side of the center wall, in a left facing dihedral. Climb past jugs through the roof and punch it to the chains past the second roof.

Use the first 4 bolts of Jimmy's Route then tread left. Followed by 25 meters of steep tufas and knee bars to the delicate finish below the anchors.

Please avoid touching the blocs in the gully on the left at the start of Jimmy's Route and El Camelion Azul. A familly of large exotic tropically colored Lizards live in that habitat.

Pitches:

1. grey, straight up, left of palm tree, slightly left towards the end.

2. grey to orange rock, over bump to anker.

3. start travers right, continue up slightly right.

4. start smal travers right, straight up to diagonal side crack

5. straight up to Orange dihedral, anker on the right of the palm tree.

6. easy straight up. Best to extend the anker for belay comfort.

7. Topout left (6m) no bolts

Gear:

80 meter singel or double 50 needed to rap! 15 quick draws (1 or 2 long ones could be handy)

Approach:

Walk from town to the El Salto canyon, pass the "Dona Kika Wall" on the left until you reach the goat herders shed, about 50 meters after you cross to the other side of the canyon and start walking up follow the trail marked by stone cairns.

Decent:

Walk down possible to the right side, come down near the big prominent slab. Rap down using the same ankers. (in the slight traverse of P3 there is a fixed draw in situ to back clip while rappelling).

This route does not see a lot of traffic, please provide info as you can.

Designed to be a trad route: lots of bolts, easy rappels, three or four bolt belay stations. Start just left of the lowest point on the wall. Bivy possible after pitch six. Cut under the obvious orange roof on pitch 11.

Start right of the lowest point of the wall. Unfinished project.

This route is the one left of Troska Ninja. It is a tall route (42m) with sub anchors for the rappel. It starts off with slab type moves with the crux in the thin vertical section just below the palm tree and then the fun starts when it gets in your face and the overhang starts. The bolts up top are a little run out. It can be done comfortably with a 60-70 meter rope.

Technical headwall up to super overhanging then roof.

Tricky moves through steep.

Heading to the tufa tongue.

Roof to the tufa system left of pornarchy. Shares anchors with Pornarchy

Start at the end of the low roof and cut left into serious tufas.

Technical facd climbing up to super steep tufas.

The left route on the prouw with different types of hangers.

Up straight and left for the last bolt and anchor.

A route with very old hangers located not far from the wooden structure.

Route has no anchor.

DO NOT CLIMB as it is DANGEROUS.

The last route on the left of animas wall. Start on watchtower and tread left of pinch -o-rama.

Route full of side-pulls and underclings.Easy jugs finish.

Climbs the dihedral up-right to straight finish to anchors

Short route with anchor right of the small tree. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny. Watch the loose blocs above the anchors.

Climb to the intermediate anchor of Power of Cheeze which is actually according to some local intel: El Poder del Queso

It's run out and it has some chossy rock, but also some fun moves

Runout. Scary!

Starts left of bush to anchor under roof.

Going up the yellow rock with a bulge in the middle.Classic crimping up orange bomber rock.

Starts behind the small tree / bush into the open dihedral. Start on Malavisco and go straight up to a broken hold. Worth doing.CURTIS LOVE 2004

Starts on Bongkatron, but finishes on Cara Cortada.

Start on the left side of the left boulder detached form the wall, first bolt is high up the wall, a few moves off the boulder.

The perfect warm-up, super nice climbing on mostly good holds.

Look at the tufa above the first anchor and you just want to climb it! 4 more bolts.Full value and amazing 4 bolts of pure pinching(not)up high.

Starts on top of the "middle flake" and finishes with the nice grey tufa. The classic warm-up with great moves on solid stone.

Starts on top of the right (pointy) flake.

Starts right of the flakes, has 2 "random" perma draws on it.

One of the first routes on Las Animas.Classic.

Bajar a la primera reunión para poder descender al piso (aun con cuerda de 80m). Climb culo de la negra and continue for another 20m , lower to the first anchor to get to the ground (even with an 80m).

Second route just left of the big tree.2nd pitch is 5.11d , rarely done because of massive beehive nest 3/4of way up.

Long, sustained, technical, endurance climb. There is a big bee nest along the way and you have to literally go through it. Usually the bees don't do anything if you move slowly, don’t touch the nest and you're not sweating. But sometimes they do attack. It’s quite a challenge and it adds up to the adventure.

Starts just left of the big tree and crosses right above it. Belayer be careful at the 4th crux moves.

Extension de "Tufa Lina"

The obvious grey tufa just right of the big tree where the flat dirt platform meets the dirt road.

A hold broke at the crux, new grade at 5.13a.

Climbs the huge tufa. Originally graded 5.11b! It seems a hold broke at the start making it 5.11d or even 5.12a. The boulder start is the crux.

Goes up left along the big grey tufa ;-). Steep start and tough finish once you loose the tufa to your right.

That route climbs the best tufa of Las Animas. Near the top of the tufa you head right for some juggy climbing until you reach the beautiful orange streak. The headwall offers very good climbing on good crimps, side pulls and other cool features. Clip the bolt line right of the tufa, It shares the anchors with Inercia.

It’s the first route to the left of the fence.Dirty corner to a slab with small holds and long resaches. Short. Not worth doing.

Impossible looking orange slab to cool climbing above.

Start in the corner with a boulder move and move up through some slab moves(Hard) to reach the tufa and palm tree. Rest. From there, prepare for 25m of super steep and exposed climbing. Probubly the best route of its grade in the park. Closed now due to Historical Research.

Start left of "El Primer Paso" in a corner and continue up passed the anchors for a mind crushing pump.Stellar and super clean.Good job boys!

Climb up the left side of the huge tufa.

Climb the blue and orange slab up and left Through tufas and a little surprise at the end. The classic on the wall. Nothing beats it.

5 more bolts and 12 meters off the anchors of Bunga Bunga for the grade. Enjoy the runout at the 3rd bolt. If you call this 13c, you obviously had extended draws at the anchors when you did it to help you through the last moves before clipping the actual anchor. Climb it like it was done, then we will talk.

Share the firsts bolts with “Unga Bunga” and goes right at the 5th bolt through fixed draws for 35M power endurance climbing.

Lower bolts are removed because of petroglyphs higher bolts remain.

First bolts are chopped. Climbed to the sub anchor(14a) by Ricardo Vara in 2016. Offical FA by Bruno "Machina" Garcia Feb 2019.

Starts with Dias de Purgatorio but trends out left to the Anchors

Travesía; escalas hasta el descanso de "Días de Purgatorio" y te vas hacia la izquierda en la travesía.

Extension of El valiente. Keep going to massive tufas and runouts.

Starts just where the road hits the wall on your way down. Same start as Bizzare Contacts and same finish too, but trends left arround the tuffas instead of right.Watch the ground fall at the 2nd and 4th bolts.

Drive your biceps and fingers through the first crux to a rest, then enjoy the rest of the 5.13 climbing to the anchors. Original entrance through "Bizarre Contact" but when climbed through "Días de Purgatorio" it’s named “Murder Weapon”.

Drive your biceps and fingers through the first crux to a rest, then enjoy the rest of the 13 climbing to the anchors.

Hard bouldery crux at the bottom followed by a good rest and then a heady crux up top. 3 huge tufas mark this route on the right side of the wall near the 4 wheeler trail.

Start on Bizarre Contact and continue straight in between the huge tufas. Needs a good brushing. Bouldery and pumpy in the chains...

Extension of Tufa King Pumped... I hope you like run outs!

Hard bouldery route, short but worth the effort.

The extension of Tufa King Short. A little more than 40m long... Use a 70m long rope to go to TKS anchors or a 80m to go all the way down, barely...

Climb the obvious thin grey streak.

Climb Dante's inferno and continue for some more. 80 m rope will get you down, barely

Follow the golden stripe for awesome technical and long climbing.

La extensión de "El Camino del Chino". Hike camino de chino and check your fears at the door crimp and throw all the way to the anchors.Whippers galor! Run out but safe .

Just right of Camino del Chino.

The bolt line just left of the obvious grey tufa.

Starts next to the low tufa with some distinct pockets.The oldest route in El Salto . New bolts now make it safe and pleasurable after years of scary run -outs on rusted home made hangers. Hold on at the third bolt.

6 plaquetas adicionales ala via original, de resistencia y moviemientos duros.

Right of Pesadilla with a sling on one of the lower bolts. A little bit overgrown by vines. Climb through the low crux at the third bolt with a thin pinch and throw. Then ease up and climb 35 m of 11+/12- technical laybacks and thin slab climbing. CAN LOWER OFF WITH A 80M.

Goes to the left.

Go straight up.Don't expect to flash this. Nothing is what it seems

Goes to the right. Interesting start treading right to a super jug slab.

Diedro gris. Starts left of the bush.

Route starts left of the tree with a very low first bolt, then goes behind and across the tree to the anchors.Stick clip the second bolt if this is at your limit.

Rightmost route of Las Animas. The route is inclined to the right.

It took Jimmy 8 years, 3 droped drills, 2 snapped fixed lines and dozens of partners to finish this monster project. It is said that the final 7 picthes where bolted in one push, with questionable substances to help with fatigue.

2nd ascent by Urs Moosmüller 3rd ascent by Sasha DiGiulian (Feb 2019)

Climb the center route to the top.Hard moves off the first bolts lead to nice easy climbing through jugs,pockets and tufas.

First pitch 11d. Hike 10 minutes down the hill from the Tecalote cavd to the obvious orange streak up the wall that cuts up the whole wall.

Left of the small cave, traverses right and then left again and up to the "double tufa".

Empieza al fondo de la cueva sigue unas plaquetas negras por el techo. Starts on the right wall of the small cave but left of Tu Felicidad and traverses the roof to continue out to the same anchor as Tu Felicidad.

Starts on the right side inside the cave and leads out to an anchor just next to the big tufa.

Follow black bolts to overhanging tufa system.

The second route outside the right side of the small cave. Climbs a left-facing dihedral that leads to a short overhang.

Recently repaired and made safe.

A potantially dangerous fall makes this othereise great line unpopular.

Shares anchores whith violencia

Second route in the left inside of the main cave. Dyno to a very violent move to reach the tufa 4 feet off the wall. Finish at the Tecalote anchors up and left.

At the very back of the cave,start below the obvious spiral offwidth, fight your way to the anchors out 30 feet from the ground.

Empieza a la izquierda de Wirrarika y despues se junta con La Violencia. Gym climbing at its best. Start below the first draw wrapped around a hole and go straight through thd cave.This thing keeps you horizontal the whole way. A classic tick to be sure.Finish out the left side of the czve at the same anchors as a La Violencia.

Amazing steep pockets and sloppers starting on the right side of the cave. Pull out of the left side of the cave to some technical climbing to anchors. Long and sustained.

Starts in the middle of the cave with nice tufas. The first route in the cave and the one to do asap.Think 3d people.

The hardest lkne to date.Traversing start crosses Kika shredder to arrive at the "H"shaped pocket.You may want to change ropes here to avoid drag.Clayton repeated it in 2016 after two key hold broke at the two cruxes and upped the grade 5.14b.

Hard moves off the ground to classic traversinv left on small pinches and crimps.Crosses H-Bomb arojnd the 4th bolt.Stay alive gor the surprise move at top .

Nice sustained pump up the main steepneess.Co mitting moves to transition and large throws,kneebars ,tufas and great pockets make this a classic not to miss it.

Dani Andrada climbed everything in the cave in a day,including Nosferatu barefoot,then decided to bolt a new route. A massive kmpressive line out the inverted roof.Sent the same day.

A must do for everyone not alergic to bats.Start on the lower left part of the upper csve and follow the bolts through the tunnel to exit on top of the upper wall. Mega Classic.

Steep is the game , long is the name.Bring all you got,cause it doesn't stop for 130 feet . Climbs thd cdnter of the upper 45 degree wall.

Same start as el Chi but trends left at the crux into Tension Sexual. Same anchors as tension sexual.

Empieza hasta la derecha de la cueva y se cruza con CHI. Traverses the roof and crosses Chi and finishes near Puro Pintxe Slopper.

Looks steep and amazing.

Left most route to climb the outer right arête of the caves.The route is ok dispite loose looking rock,but it gets you to the upper cave.Keep an eye out for the anchors out right. Untying at the anchors anv having a look around : you won't regret it !

Continue straight unstread of traversing to the Super Chongo anchors for more climbing on steeper tock and harder moves.

First route on the Left, dihedral with a tufa. Tricky but not hard.

Early Sloper Crux. Life can always get better, When you feel like giving up, just remember the reason why you held on for so long. Never never never give up.

Glue-ins, very few but good moves, not so hard.

Short and hard of very good quality. Only one ascent so far at the time, july2019. Grade might be harder than reality.

V4 plus V6 plus V4, mediocre rest after crux. Very small holds or very big move at the crux. Probably easier if you're tall but only one person (tall) has ever tried the route. Starts with a big move on the right, from the pockets straight up to a small tooth. Pre-clip the first bolt.

Variant of shrooming.

Route under development

Unfinished route with abandoned quickdraws.

Nice tufa climbing!

Super cool 3D climbing.

Cruxy start and then a technical chimeney between tuffas.

Mega Clasic!! A great ride of 3D climbing between great tufas.

A tufa broke and there's a super hard boulder crux on the first roof (v9?), The upper part is Still very dirty and needs some cleaning 🧹

3rd route from right to left.follow the overhanging crack diedral into roof and gigantic tufas.

First anchor goes up to 28 meter, extension goes another 12 meters.

First anchor name: un mundo feliz. Extension name: fuera de la realidad.

80 m rope.

Open Project.

Long and well bolted route.

if you climb it be carefull there are some big blocks of rock that are lose in some parts

This 6 pitch route is now open to the public. Established ground up with removable bolts but bolted with stainless steel glue-in wave bolts on rappel. Someday it will go all the way to the top, an estimated 6 more pitches. But the halfway height shouldn’t stop people from climbing it now and enjoying getting some elevation.

If I have seen further than others, it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants. - Isaac Newton

The name is to recognize all the pioneers that went before me that helped establish Mexico climbing, I would name them all but then I would forget someone deserving of much respect. Also, one of our bolting party Dylan is a very tall man with a very long ape index and an even bigger appetite for adventure. Given what he has been through adventuring with me he deserves to have a climb named after him. To top it all off to me also the top of the mountain looks like two shoulders.

Pitch 1 5.9 - Starts at the top of the vegetated boulder field, look for the bolts that go up, start climbing. Pitch 2 5.10a - Some really nice quality climbing. Be sure to touch the palm tree for good luck. Pitch 3 5.11a - This is the crux pitch but the hard section is bolted close enough you could French free it if you needed to. Palm tree makes a nice rest ledge before starting the cruxy section. Pitch 4 5.10 - A lot of yucca died so you could enjoy this pitch, but don’t worry, they aren’t coming back and they left behind some face climbing for you. Pitch 5 5.10 Touch the palm tree for good luck, this is palm tree #3 on the route. Pitch 6 5.10+ Cool finishing moves near the top of the pitch.

Route Development by (in no particular order): Joel Schopp, John Deas, Dylan Weldin, Heath Dieckert, Jason Mann, & Lynne Maphies. Thanks to my wife and kids for putting up with several trips across the border and back.

Random notes: * Pitch 1 is shorter at maybe 23m, everything else is about 28m-30m. Can rappel it all with a 60 if you tie stopper knots. * Pitch 4, 5, and 6 wander a bit and will require some swinging if rappeled with 1 rope. If you do double rope rappels top of 6->4->2 it goes a lot straighter. * The climb gets sun starting about 9am until about noon because it faces east and a bit north. The deep cliff shade in the afternoon makes it tolerable to climb this late into the climbing season. Especially since the canyon stays 10-15 degrees cooler F than Monterrey.

Empieza a la izquierda de una estalactita. Starts left of the big tufa.

Empieza a la derecha de una estalactita. Starts right of big tufa.

Una ruta facil; Fun moves to a hidden hold up high.

Comparte reunion con 'George'.

Shares anchor with 'George'.

Comparte reunion con Suzy Sheep.

Shares anchor with Suzy Sheep.

Start between the trees.

Hay un techo a la mitad de la ruta. Goes up the slab and over a small roof to the anchor.

12 plaquetas + reunión con cadenas y maillones grandes (08/22).

La línea izquierda de las 3 rutas largas que van por a las reuniones en piedra amarillosa y grisacea.

---ENG---

12 bolts + anchors with chains and big maillons (08/22).

The leftmost line of the 3 longer routes going up to the yellowish and grey top.

Una ruta muy divertida. El crux está a la mitad de la ruta.

Passes just right of the big grey tufa and finishes on sharp grey rock. 2 bolt anchor without chains but you may lower from the anchor to the right or left.

Hay varios techos. Ruta bien divertida. El crux está al final de la ruta.

Empieza entre dos árboles start between 2 trees

Up a dirty corner in the shape.

Fun easg climbing though a roof.

Super fun overhanging climbing Probably the best route on the wall.

Hard moves through a low roof.

Climb a crack system to the right of a tree half way up.

No bolts only anchors. It might be for trad.

Trends left along the obvious crack to the anchor next to the tree.

Start on the left edge of the low ledge.Climbs up into a small roof and anchors just above.Great transition move up high.

Very cool climbing through a small roof up high.

Fun slopers!

15 bolts + 2 bolts con cadenas.

La ruta izquierda de tres que están muy cercanas en la pared grisacea.

15 bolts + 2 bolts with chains.

Leftmost route of three which are really close on grayish wall.

A bit of a squeeze, but more space higher above.

Anchor is on the small blank face high up.Angles right throught some nive uverhangs.