Vías en Maungarei Springs

Easily up to the overhanging bulge, hump and bump your way over the bulge and continue to the anchors.

Anchor hangers now have rings so you can climb and then abseil without walking off.

Follow the arete just to the right of The Potarta moving right and up to the shelf and anchors. 2 BRs, 2 BBs.

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with Over the Mountain.

Easy slab on small wires, leads to a bulge with a small cam to protect the crux. Named after a mythological creature the Potarta that tickles feet and eats heads, which seemed kind of analogous to a climb with dubious gear and a slab to fall on.

Several metres back on the shelf you top out onto is the anchor to lower off.

Start as for Sunny Sunday, at the third bolt step right and over the bulge (crux).

Start as for Sunday Sunday, clipping the first bolt of that route to move right and follow two more bolts, finishing directly and to the left of the third, to the groove above.

Follow the drill hole to reach the ledge at top. The anchor shared among these routes is some meters back from the edge.

Up the blast hole to a ledge and steep face.

Up the drill hole to ledge, then move right and climb the buttress.

“Ants” 9m 15 Up the recess/corner, right of ”How does it go”, step right onto block with blast hole, up a shallow scoop and short wall to the bolt, a small cam fits in the horizontal crack just above the bolt, swing right to reach the anchors. Trad, or clip the bolt. John Broadwell, Antony Ranger 09/11/2023

Start on the right side of the dark buttress right of “Midday lightning”, then up the centre of the buttress and left of the third bolt.

Head up a thinning crack then step across right to access another thin crack. Possible earlier FA unknown.

The controversial and contrived direct finish on the slabby face has been chopped.

Technical and interesting climbing leads to an easier top.

Hard bouldery start up the scoop to a no hands rest at mid-height. Then some balancy moves direct up the face to finish (stay off the right arete for full value).

Left- hand start variant to Hrgngh.

Start left of the blunt arete for Hrgngh, the left crack and everything beyond is out (no bridging obviously). Make your way up some difficult moves and finish as for Hrgngh.

Right facing corner crack from hand to fist to offwidth.

Climb the crack on the left side of the pillar of 'Ogopogo Strikes Back' (17). Good nut placeable from the ground saves your ankles, juggy but somewhat powerful start leads to easier ground above. Plenty of options for cams/nuts, enjoy mantling up at the top.

Start either on the left or right of the pillar (left is 18), follow the main flaring corner up & right to a very cool blast hole. Continue upwards and left to the DBC anchor (shared with Atomic Rooster).

Start up crack to the right of the slab face. First piece can be placed from the ground, second piece from first stable stance . Then go left up the slab face via bolt to place piece in horizontal crack to second bolt and DBC anchor finish.

Follow the obvious flared crack to the left of slab wall. Leads to easy run out scramble. limited protection once you get to the scramble. Double chain anchor.

Climb the blocks then pull through the steeper section to the right of the tree. Easy slab finish to the anchor. Stay left of the arête to avoid the choss and place gear in the thin crack on the left.

Start in the steep finger crack directly above the fence. Continue climbing straight up, keeping left of the large gorse bush, then traverse right at the top to the anchor set up by Christian Gamst.

Follow the crack over a small roof then finish at the anchor of Morning Coffee.

Start below the dominant prow, move diagonally up and to the right by the easiest path to reach the anchors

Not yet bolted, as I'm still cleaning it.

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

Up the arete and buttress to the blast hole, and then jive and reach. Don't stray onto the routes to the right and left. Use the belay station for "Dochawiyogicojalime"

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

The face to the left of PBJ. Eliminate the ledge for full value.

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

Follow the left arete upwards, technical moves and thin feet

Up the groove as for Zag, finish right past two bolts to the anchor of 'I Like Arêtes and I Cannot Lie'.

First bolt installed by unknown, climbed to anchors of dochawi by Mario Hernandez, later extended by running out to the top by Phil Higgins and Dave Ackery, Before finally having an extra bolt and anchors installed. You figure out who the FA is.

Up the groove, finish easily by escaping left past the small tree to the anchors of "Shooting in the Dark".

Don't know if this has previously been climbed?

Climb up the corner between shooting in the dark and zag, traversing left under the chossy ledge and finishing at the former's anchors. Slinging the tree while amusing, is not advised. If (and when) it goes, it will pull down most of the climb. The crack in the corner offers excellent protection, although the chossy ledge above provides food for thought. First ascent done with two offsets and a 0.5 C4 that a certain leader forgot on the ground.

Climb the slabby arete to the right of "I Do My Cleaning in the Rain", leads to a great crack on the left with plenty of placement options. Mantle onto the large ledges and protect the widening crack above to head up to the anchors. You can either stay mostly in this crack, or bridge out left so you can use the juggy edges above.

Spotted the great crack and had already cleaned the widening crack at the top so it was match made in the heavenly sun.

Climb the inwards corner to the right of "Shooting in The Dark" and left of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun". Some subtle cracks for protection down lower open to a nice wide hex size crack as you get to the crux of mantling before easier ground above. Climb moves right up the easy blocks to the anchors of "Climbing Cracks in the Sun".

Gianna and I managed to dodge the rain and climb "Shooting in The Dark" but the rain returned with a vengeance so we cleaned this route instead of climbing. Named after the a-ha version of Crying in The Rain which I heard the weekend before.

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

Follow the corner and crack immediately left of "Shooting in the Dark" to shared anchors.

Start to the left of "My Foot Slipped". Climb the steep crack on the left side of the pillar. Continue directly up for a few meters then step left onto a ledge below a smooth concave face. Climb a few moves up the left side of the face to reach the handrail then traverse right just above the bolt to the nose.

Use the thin crack and pockets up the steep face then straight through the overhang. Once through the overhang trending left and up a steep corner to the anchor. Initially climbed as a dry tooling route at grade M7, later free climbed.

Top out the boulder problem then climb the sweet finger crack to an easier top section. Shares anchors with "His".

Steep bouldering start to the ledge around grade 18. Alternatively start 3m from the right then walk across the ledge around grade 16. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

Starts just right of "Canadian Summer (M5)".

Mantel onto the shelf and up the stairs to the right.

Over the block, then another mantel to the belay.

Climb to the anchors between "Swan Lake" and "Canadian Summer (M5)". Trad gear all the way, bouldery finish either up the crack (which is protectable with large cam/s) or the arete.

I'm still investigating a possible sport route on the left face to the anchors, needs some cleaning of the choss, don't climb this section in the meantime!

Named after Maungarei and the mokomoko (Māori for skink), there are many around the crag and the two first climbers looked like mokomoko clambering up through the crack or over the arete.

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

Scramble up onto the ledge. Navigate straight up the face. slight left of bulge goes at 25, right of the bulge 26

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Climb the large blocks to the boulder and crack. Protection goes in the crack, you go to the left of the boulder - hexes and nuts work well. Traverse right to the anchors of "Sylvie’s Blast Hole".

Start below as for "Sylvie's Blast Hole", then traverse diagonally up to the anchors of A Carp Died for this.

Loose blocks have been removed, but there may still be a few more until it sees more traffic.

Start to the right of Serenity. Straight up the face above past four bolts.

Start 5m R of ‘A Carp Died for this Climb’ Climb the corner with a thin crack at the back of it. Alternatively climb the corner 2m to the R. Continue directly up easier rock to the corner with yellow rock on its right. Start in the corner then move up left and continue trending slightly leftwards up the face and corner until a bolt can be seen on a smooth face to the right. Traverse past the bolt and continue upward to the anchor point below a large overhang near the top of the crag.

To the right of "A Carp Died for This Climb", follow the line of weakness to the anchors.

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

Climb the cruxy face then slabby corner left of "A Carp Died for This Climb", moving right for the last move or two to the shared belay/rap anchor. 3 bolts and possible to clip the fourth on "A Carp Died for This Climb". Take care approaching and clipping the third bolt as run-out.

Climb the corner between Carpe Diem & Tuatara on gear placed in the crack. Continue up Tuatara climbing the smooth face either to the right or left of top bolt.

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

Start to the right of 'Fingertip Face' Get up onto the platform. A move on the left gets you started up the groove, then straight up to the belay.

Start is between Fingertip Face and MV6.Follow the crack,groove,drillhole,up to the MV6 anchors. Good stances for gear placements but a little run out at the top.

Start 5m right of 'The South Face' Climb the centre of the narrow face at the back of the corner to a small ledge 4m up. Step left round a small arete onto the scooped face. Climb directly up on good rock 1m to 2m right of drill hole. Continue up smooth steep face and move right to the belay.

Climbs the blocks to the right of 'The South Face', follow the blast hole line towards the anchors of 'Fingertip Face'. Some good placements on the first half, the bolts can be used for a mixed route or there's a small crack with a couple of placements leading up to the anchor.

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

There is a double bolt chain anchor on the ledge for multipitch practice.

Climb the line of weakness on the left hand side of "The South Face" ledge. Curves it's way up to the anchors of that climb. Plenty of small placements in the crack and very obvious line now that the gorse bush and choss is gone.

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

Climbs the face up to the first bolt of "Blood Sweat and Sunblock" then traverses left to a diagonal rail. Some big moves lead to the horizontal crack with a bomber placement, then a big move to the lip.

Climb the arête and finish with The Gecko. Two bolts, and a piece for the horizontal crack.

Climb the face just left of the arête. Technical face climbing on small crimps, arête is out. Place a cam in the horizontal break before the anchors for added protection at the final move.

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

Up the groove, delicate traverse left, finish straight up with some powerful moves

Climb up to the ledge, move right onto the face and go up through the gorse bush. Climb the headwall on the right using the top two bolts of the project or do it all trad with small gear in the crack.

First climbed using the top edge has now gone direct on the face [2 grades harder?], physical when done using the edge (i.e. not easy), crimpy on the face, great anchor with clippable biners for easy lowering.

Up the blunt arete right of 'Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools'

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

Start in the corner, then move right onto the face, then up through the bulge.

Layback up the flared crack to meet "Scrack" at the last bolt, shared anchor.

The curving crack and slab originally climbed on gear. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

Accidentally retrobolted. Can now be climbed as sport/trad.

Trend left of the bolts now that the bridging option is gone with the jenga pile of blocks. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

Start up between 'The Whimsical West' and 'Rock Climb This You Bastards'. Follow the line of the bolts, keeping close to them for the best climbing.

Start 5m left of "Rock Climb This You Bastards". Climb the corner. Continue up the centre of the polished faces following the line of bolts.

Climb the prow and the final rounded face to the anchor bolts shared with "Blue's Suede Shoes".

Start in the groove beween Blue's Suede Shoes and The Whimsical West. The first bolt is on the right, the rest are stright above the groove, finishing at the double bolt belay shared with BSS and WW.

Starts 5m left of "The Whimsical West". Climb 3m up to the left end of large rounded ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb up to second bolt then traverse horizontally along ledge then up to third bolt.

Up to fourth bolt then up the corner just right of the anchor bolts. Alternatively from fourth bolt climb corner just left of the anchor bolts.

Start on the wall 3m left of "Blue's Suede Shoes" up to the shelf, then two mantles (the first mantle is easiest from the right), then straight up the walls above to the anchor (double bolt belay). There is some loose rock off line.

Start at the corner or wall left of Arachnid, up left of the nose, and to the anchors shared with Arachnid. The start is a bit thin but good climbing above.

3m left of Arachnid. Two bolt belay. Stay on the shield headwall, some holds on the left edge. Avoid the poor rock of to the right.

Still alot of debris either side please be careful. start on the face and position yourself through the rails, mantle and then fight the pump to the top.

would be a crag classic maybe if it were slightly cleaner

Start as for Go Up The Waterfall but instead of traversing leftwards under the overhang go straight up to the same anchor. Possible earlier FA unknown.

Starts on the face to the right of the waterfall (the slabby jutting out pieces where birds hang around, look for the guano), traverse left under the waterfall and then steel yourself for the big haul up and over!

Top half is a breeze and fun to climb up where the water flows after heavy rain.

Start slightly right of the shrub in the middle of the waterfall face under the guano, work your way straight up on small edges to the bulge, then proceed directly up.

First few meters offers no opportunity for protection, but provides enjoyable and delicate climbing. Placements improve as you get higher, and the big haul over the overhang and bulge is well protected, leading to easy climbing above, topping out on DBA. Look out for the hidden jugs and edges on top of the bulge.

Unsure if this variation has been climbed before, but thought I'd share.

Wide groove just inside the end fence of Lakeside Wall. Technical start leads to quality jugs and good placements.

Delicate mantle and traverse right on the ledge to clip the one bolt. Climb diagonally right up to the anchor of Go up the waterfall.

Start on the rails, get feet on, make your way to the top just below the gorse. down climb to the right.

Stay on the arete make your way to the top, you can top out and down climb to the left or down climb to the right.

Compress the block all the way up on good feet, Top and down climb to the right.

Start on the crimps and make your way to the top, stay close to the centre crack for full value.Take care on the fall zone. Down climb on the right.

Climb the sketchy flake to the top. Still a bit crumbly so use caution. Down climb easier to start on the right then traverse back left.

Climb the sketchy flake to the top. Still a bit crumbly so use caution. Down climb easier to start on the right then traverse back left.