Ascensiones de Dodor

Took a few goes to make the feet work, but got there in the end. Actually rather fun in a manufactured rock kind of way.

Technically working the project, that move. Did manage to sorta do the pocket to crimp throw, then had trouble stepping up. So it's a twofer.

Trying the mono to jug sequence but feels like my pulley will explode. Will probably shelve this project.

Two attempts on the project, completed the top, but that crux move still escapes me. Did manage to stand up on crappy hold and grab the left hand crimp (right hand on the two finger half pad) but then couldn't move the feet up, and couldn't repeat it.

Reworked the moves.

Reworked the moves.

Not even remotely clean, bottom crux is the key, top doable.

Fingers too weak to pull on da pockies

Clean from the ground.

All the way from the ledge.

Worked out the moves. One very strong cruxy move in the middle.

Got all the moves this time, couple of rests. Lower crux still difficult, but managed all the moves.

Pulled through the lower crux, but completed the rest of it.

Quite the challenge. I had the wrong shoes for the route so I will come back with the right ones and try again for sure.

went left this time, still spanned from rail to right jug, Gaston

Left at bulge. Feels more like a linkup with Sylvie's as you end up on that route's last bolt. A bit contrived, but nonetheless fun moves getting around the arête. Probably closer to 24?.. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Followed original beta for the face, big move from the left crimp to the high side-pull pocket. Then left through the bulge. Nice variation of moves.

FINALLY. And I sent the sucker in the goddamn RAIN, too! 🌧😂 Just like the first ascentionist Travis Rangi did! 👍🏼

Important lessons for me on this nice little gem. I already knew that getting strong 💪 in lockdown and doing many pull-ups was fine and all but that my technical skills would likely suffer. DID THEY EVER! I have a long way to go in that department, but I was determined to nail Dodor as a step in the right direction ♡ I have earned a return to Ti Point now.

Today as I shook out on the clipping jug for the last bolt before the anchor, I finally remembered what Sarah Hay had taught me that day at Bumbly's Buttress, Wharepapa Rock 🪨 It's not just about shaking out the pump. It's not even just about catching your breath! I should stay there until I can feel my heart ❤ rate returning to resting rate, as it while I was standing on the ground before I started climbing. I had dropped the top part FOUR times by this point, not because it's hard but because I was full of adrenaline, shaking, rushing the moves instead of doing them in control. Thank you, Sarah Hay 🌟🧗🏽‍♀️ It was foolish of me to forget, but I will remember now!!!

And a big thanks to Alexei for the patience helping me working it and the brilliance of his beta-working skills - and to Cinthy🌺, my most supportive and encouraging belayer 💫

Put the gear up for Alex.

Second repeat Lockdown climbing Left of the bulge as per usual.

Working on the 'left at bulge' variation.

Got to the move going out right to the pinch of the shallow two finger pocket above the vertical side pull. Couldn't generate enough force to get up there as I can't pull up on the pocket. Need to get feet higher. Good route otherwise, cool sequence.

Climb needs to be brushed

too hard for me. but fun to play.

Had a go at the big lock-off move that the first ascensionist does from the rail to the pinch. I can make the distance but didn't have the contact strength.

Trying a repeat with my original beta but was a bit too casual in the midday sun.

Repeat. Felt easier this time as I wasn't that focused and mucked around a bit but still got it done. Grading is hard if you practice too much

3rd go overall. Clean to clipping the bolt on the bulge. Then foot slipped as I went up to the left arete and I stood on the second bolt. Called take and then went to the top.

Redpoint. 4th go overall. Stayed on the face and kept off the right arete up until the 3rd bolt. Then traversed and went left at the bulge following Jason Watson's beta. This beta seems like soft 25 or maybe hard 24.

Second attempt overall. High point. Got to 3rd bolt clipping jug at left of bulge. Clipped third bolt. Felt very pumped as it is 4th day climbing in a row. After I came off trying to go right, I then had a look at the left exit. Seems very doable.

Surprisingly found a doable right-hand sequence on this one. Need to come back to string it together with better skin for the shallow 1-2 finger pockets. Still a couple of moves to do in isolation, so probably need a couple more sessions.

Skipped the crux by going to the right arete and then traversing back across. Definitely off route and wouldn't be able to reach the bolts. Would probably make a cool route though at about 23?

debates and banta today on what holds you're allowed to use and not 😂 my version is likely 25 could be 24...Some really good beta from Jason made the top of this one easy on the left and right so really just comes down to the individual face move and if you do it 😂 back next week to repeat and film all the methods I think 🧐

In my opinion 24 or 25 depending on how you climb it . I lead it 4 different ways so far , doing both left and right of the bulge variations ( left side variant keeping to bulge holds only ) and climbing the starting section from the ledge with face holds only , staying away from the right arete .