Ayuda

Ascensiones en Elephant Buttress por John Pitcairn

Buscando en:

Filtros de ascensión:

  • Hito
  • Protección
  • Viaje
  • EPP
-

Filtros de vía:

Filtros de escalador:

Ordenado por:

Mostrando los 14 ascensiones.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Calidad
Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
17 Elephant's Revenge - con Gareth Clásica 15m Muy buena
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.

 
Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
15 Duro Irrelephant - con Gareth Clásica 8m Medio
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.

 
Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Duro Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - con Gareth Clásica mixta 30m, 3 Buena
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.

 
Sáb 3.º Abr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
16 Claim Jumper - con Paul Baron Clásica 28m Buena
Vegetated down low, lichenous higher, needs a better clean. If cleaner I think it would be quite good, has a nice physicality to it with some committing moves. Mind the chossy bits at top, but there is gear, and don't miss the anchor out left (the traverse to that is protectable by a #3).

 
16 Trunk Line - con Paul Baron Clásica 35m Buena
Much better after the clean at the bottom, but a lot of dirt will continue to rain down on it I think. Mind the somewhat chossy stuff up top, though there is good gear to be had. Squeeze between the kōwhai and the rock for a better belay experience, then extend yourself down from the tree anchor. You can rap off the shackles on the hand line and get down to the bottom of Taniwha Crackdown on a 60m rope, assuming you want to trust the hand line.

 
Lun 28.º Dic 2020 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
16 Trunk Line - con Gareth Clásica 35m Basura
Terrifying, stay the hell off. Filthy and difficult down low, objectively dangerous up top due to the huge detached death-flake. Much gardening and excavation for gear up the crack, veering left quite often just to climb on lichen rather than vegetation, then tried to stay off the horrifying huge flake as much as possible by bridging and climbing/protecting the right wall, with just one big hex in the flake gap. Topped out around the tree then anchored on the same tree as the hand line (not the shackles), which is quite old but needed for the sketchy walk-off. I will never climb this again, and recommend nobody else does either.

 
Dom 29.º Dic 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Taniwha Crackdown - con Gareth Hall Clásica 20m Buena
A bit of an evening adventure, starting as far right as possible. Traverse gear is reasonably sparse but you're not far off the ground.

 
Mar 23.º Abr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
23 Flight Of The Pachyderm - con Grant Johnston Deportiva 40m, 9 Buena
Had a go on Donovan's draws. Nice 17-ish slabbing until the first overhang, then shut down trying to get past that. Well protected to work the overhang. Beyond me right now.

 
15 The Nose - con Grant Johnston Deportiva 30m, 9 Medio
Easy sport clip-up, not my thing.

 
16 Claim Jumper - con Grant Johnston Clásica 28m Buena
It looks a bit shit but there is some decent climbing here, and it's a decent length. The bottom crack is a bit seepy after rain which makes for an underwhelming start, but things improve from there. Not the cleanest thing around but workable. Loose flake out right around halfway.

 
Dom 27.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
17 Elephant's Revenge Clásica 15m Muy buena
Really enjoyed this, worth going up there for. The offwidth start is the crux, funky moves and can be tamed a bit by a high fist jam to pull up at the top. Plenty of gear is available up the top section offwidth layback and above. It's all pretty clean too. Big gear - take at least doubles of #4 cams, at least one #5.

 
Dom 27.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
10 Hooptedoodle Slab Clásica 7m Ni te molestes
An exploratory mission. You wouldn't think a grade 10 slab could be scary, but it's covered in lichen and loose bits of rock and there is pretty much no worthwhile gear. Don't think Rob was very happy on lead. Maybe an option if it was clean, but you're probably a lot better off climbing Irrelephant (the flaring 15) to gain the upper tier.

 
Dom 27.º En 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 16 Nogasang Clásica mixta 30m, 6 Buena
It's more like 17, and there is a fair bit of lichen regrowth, but it's a cool slabby lead with some nervy moments.

 
Dom 31.º En 2016 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Taniwha Crackdown - con Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett Clásica 20m Buena
Fun and not as straightfoward as thought. One small cam and lots of nuts, gear needed plenty of extension to manage rope drag, belayed at Elephant Hunting chains (shade) but could have continued. Angela led the short 13 to the top then we soloed (me in liner socks only).

 

Mostrando los 14 ascensiones.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文