Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sáb 6.º Abr 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
TRS. Getting hot, tired, flubbed it. Couple of sits.
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19 Fácil | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★ Out With The Boys | 15m, 4 | Medio | |||
Pumpy warmup.
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Dom 31.º Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Pipeline Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Grim Reaper - con Jonno Rau | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Mostly great 16 ish fist/hand jamming until you hit the beefy crux, then back to easier stuff above. Well protected. Jenga blocks above are solid, stuff 1m left of the anchor probably isn't.
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Dom 31.º Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
The left is indeed less awkward starting the slab. But most of the fun is below that.
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Dom 31.º Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes - con Jonno Rau | 15m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Totally forgotten everything. Started in stiff shoes, sat and switched, hauled up chalk. Bit of a shitshow.
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17 | ★ Ring Them Bells - con Jonno Rau | 15m, 6 | Medio | |||
Been a while. Prob too far left at 1st bolt.
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Dom 17.º Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Wasn't going to but did. Just another afternoon at the gym.
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18 | ★ Groove Thang | 12m, 3 | Medio | |||
17 Duro | ★ Career Opportunities | 13m | ★ Buena | |||
Harder than it looks.
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19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Sáb 9.º Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Ow tweaky shoulder.
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18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Lap #40 apparently.
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18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
19 Fácil | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Sáb 2.º Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Up N Away - con Gareth | 10m | Medio | |||
A bit bloody sharp.
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20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons - con Gareth | 23m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Not led it for a while now.
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18 | ★★ Game Over - con Gareth | 23m, 5 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Now with more pull.
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18 | ★ Haul Away | 15m, 5 | Medio | |||
19 Fácil | ★ Built For Comfort | 15m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
The pull cord fairy pays a visit. Almost all done.
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Sáb 17.º Feb 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Replacing pull cord on route to left. Sketchy anchor traverse happened.
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18 | ★ Groove Thang | 12m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Replacing pull cord on route to right.
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Mar 6.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 Duro | The Sufferer and the Witness - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 37m, 3 | Medio | |||
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
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Lun 5.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
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20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 5 | Medio | |||
A bit squeezed at the top.
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17 Duro | ★★ Iboga - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 30m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
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Dom 4.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 Duro | ★ Natural Selection | 26m | ★ Buena | |||
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
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18 | ★ Human Intervention - con Aidan Sarginson | 28m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.
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Sáb 3.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
19 | ★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
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18 | King Of The World - con Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 23m, 5 | Medio | |||
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
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Vie 2.º Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Duro | ★★ Great Scott - con Aidan Sarginson | 27m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
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Sáb 20.º En 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Pipeline Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Grim Reaper - con Andy Baird | 18m | ||||
ACAT working bee. Dogged/aided while dirty, then scrubbed clean. Didn't have the energy or will to re climb it, must return. Crux will be tricky.
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Jue 4.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - con Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 15m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
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22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - con Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 28m, 11 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
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16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - con Gareth | 28m | ★ Buena | |||
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
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20 Duro | ★★ Great Scott - con Justin Wimmer, Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
18 | ★ Critters Corner - con Justin Wimmer | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
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Mié 3.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 Duro | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - con Gareth | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
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20 | ★ Sunday School - con Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
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20 | ★ Sunday School - con Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ Buena | |||
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Upper tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Elephant's Revenge - con Gareth | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Middle tier | ||||||
15 Duro | Irrelephant - con Gareth | 8m | Medio | |||
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
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Mar 2.º En 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 Duro | ★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - con Gareth | 30m, 3 | ★ Buena | |||
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
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Jue 28.º Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 18m | ★ Buena | |||
Nice line, could use a brush.
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17 | ★★ Boat Ramp Crack - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
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Mié 27.º Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
22 | ★★ Predator - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 12m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
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Mié 27.º Dic 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - con Jonno Rau, Gareth | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.
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Dom 17.º Dic 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Mangatoetoenui Gorge Bowie Rickman Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★★ Heroes - con Jonno Rau | 35m, 1 | ★ Buena | |||
Think Jonno strayed too far right, missed the spike, exited right instead of left. Getting hot and blowy, time to leave. Keen to return and lead it.
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18 | ★★★ Just For One Day - con Jonno Rau | 35m, 2 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Terrific climbing, not too run out and there's no doubt gear I missed. Nervy moment after first bolt when I pulled a sizeable sharp flake off while starting the crux. Pockets full of wind-blown sand so missed those for cams, will remember a brush next time. Big overhanging chockstones at top a bit alarming. Must do again!
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17 | ★★★ Potions Master - con Jonno Rau | 35m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Nice lead from Jonno. Great route, reminiscent of Arapiles watchtower slabbing. Left the anchor in place for convenience.
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14 | Shamed - con Jonno Rau | 25m, 1 | Medio | |||
Arrived with much less gear today but too few draws, improvised an extra couple. Think we climbed this, but didn't see a bolt so probably veered right and finished closer to Gruber. Rapped off a bollard.
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Sáb 16.º Dic 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Mangatoetoenui Gorge Rehab Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Slingky Malinky - con Jonno Rau | 20m | ★ Buena | |||
Entirely on 5 slings as suggested. Easy climbing and good stances but you might want a bit more gear than that.
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16 | ★ Sweet Sixteen - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 4 | Medio | |||
Trickyish start. Didn't float my boat.
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16 Fácil | ★ Going Straight - con Jonno Rau | 25m | ★ Buena | |||
Fun wee overlap. A bit mossy and dusty in the cracks, did a bit of scraping but mostly found alternate gear.
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15 | ★★ Resolution - con Jonno Rau | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Really pleasant route, good gear. Walked 30km to get here.
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Dom 10.º Dic 2023 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Galapagos - con Jonno Rau | 18m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sooked out and sat after getting crossed up at a nice sharp pocket. A little blood. Slung the horn for pro, then noticed there is now a top bolt out to the right. Odd position.
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18 Fácil | ★★ Hannah Louise - con Jonno Rau | 30m, 8 | ★ Buena | |||
17 | ★★ Carpe Diem - con Jonno Rau | 30m, 12 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Lun 23.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 Fácil | ★★ The Gecko Groove - con Gareth | 28m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.
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Lun 23.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bitten By A Cobra - con Gareth | 25m, 4 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.
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17 | ★★ Manbearpig - con Gareth | 15m | ★ Buena | |||
The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.
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16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - con Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Gear within half a metre of every bolt.
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17 | ★★ The Mad Hatter - con Gareth | 20m, 10 | ★ Buena | |||
Loose bolt tightening. Horrified at how much more extensive the trampled earth is and the extra tracks coming in. Unsustainable.
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Dom 22.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping - con Gareth | 48m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - con Gareth | 45m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
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Sáb 21.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 |
★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2
- con
Gareth
2
20
escalada de primero por
John Pitcairn
Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG. | 20m, 14 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
18 | ★★ Guardians of the Galaxy P1-2 - con Gareth | 35m, 28 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.
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19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - con Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
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17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz - con Gareth | 15m | Medio | |||
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
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Vie 20.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Duro | ★★ Great Scott - con Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Side pull flake still present.
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17 Duro | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - con Gareth | 18m | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.
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Vie 20.º Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - con Gareth | 20m, 5 | Medio | |||
I think it's 19.
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - con Gareth | 20m, 8 | Medio | |||
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
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Mar 19.º Sep 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
15 | ★ Oliver's Twist - con Rosie | 12m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
Replaced pull cord for this and toprope-only route to left.
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17 ~16 | ★ Green Spot - con Rosie | 16m, 5 | Ni te molestes | |||
Replaced pull cord for this and Facetious. Still don't like the big detached block.
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18 | ★ Out With The Boys - con Rosie | 15m, 4 | Medio | |||
Replaced pull cord.
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14 ~13 | ★ Yellowcake UF6 - con Rosie | 9m | Medio | |||
Replacing pull cord.
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13 ~10 | Stairway - con Rosie | 7m | Basura | |||
Replacing pull cords. Awful rock, like climbing the clay cliff at the beach.
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Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Streetwise - con Jonno Rau | 15m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
Tired, shoulder a bit grumpy. One take.
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19 | ★ Time Flies - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 5 | ★ Buena | |||
1 grunty move gives it the grade. A bit spoogy at present.
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Sáb 9.º Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★ Powder Queen - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★ Buena | |||
Crux bulge looks harder than it is.
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18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - con Jonno Rau | 25m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
16 ~16 Duro | ★ Bonne Anne - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Sáb 2.º Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt - con Jonno Rau | 18m, 6 | ★ Buena | |||
3 is enough, post cold, tweaked back. Pretty spoogy at top.
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Sáb 2.º Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 Duro | ★ Roadweary - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 9 | ★ Buena | |||
16 ~16 Duro | ★ Bonne Anne - con Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | |||
Mié 23.º Ag 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 Fácil | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Buena |