Ascents of Klingons by John Pitcairn

Wasn't going to but did. Just another afternoon at the gym.

Lap #40 apparently.

Not led it for a while now.

Putting the SNW pull cord back up

Mucking around looking for a direct through bulge.

The usual tactic through the middle.

Went right thru middle, forced back left below ledge.

Lap 2. A bit pumped at top.

Led for a change instead of TRS, feels good.

Got a bit too focused and didn't clip the lower of the 2 crux bolts. Oops too late. Then nearly repeated that with the final bolt.

Up to retrieve the anchor. Using all the bolts this time.

2nd lap TRS. Played around out right on the bulge, had a sit.

Last before lunch and loss of shade.

The usual beta.

TRS play right of the bolts at the bulge. Not really getting it, a few hangs. Rapped off from ledge above it.

Such a nice rest ledge.

Still good

Went right on bulge, harder. Pumped and a sit. Solo rig working well.

Community service to put the pull cord back up. Felt like 20 today, too slow through crux, tore my finger up a little.

Directly up beside the arete through the crux, bridging and heel hooks. I call 19. Fat old chain at top is a bugger to clip anything through.

Debating whether knee was up to it. In the end the crux was straightforward then had a mare trying to clip the anchor with a clusterfucked tether and a bit of pump. Probably 19, but.

Warmdown? Felt pretty good.

A long long belay session while Gareth worked it, so had a fair bit of pocket beta. Felt soft for 20, foot placement starting the crux is crucial.