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Estoy de acuerdo
10 years visiting Peñoles in winter and always tried this boulder, never could stick the dyno and the rest of the line (7 crimpy moves to the jump) also always felt way to hard. This year I tried the new beta, going with right to a bad gaston and jump to the jug with left hand. On my second session I finally did the jump in isolation and 15 min later I had a magical moment and the send in my pocket, 5-stars-boulder!
finally we climbed "Roger´s Project", send-train with first and second ascend (it was hard because two times it started raining right before my send!)...first half includes a nice finger-crack (aprox. V5), then a good handcrack to rest and finally a very technical topout (aprox. V7) with a bad pintch and some very bad high slopers, five-stars-king-line
A beautiful December afternoon with good company. Happy to get the send of this testpiece! 4 sessions I think? Haven't been on this in almost a year and a half. First of the grade.
the full line!!! Traverse to the left, the crux of "Bellender Boulder" and then all the lip to the right to top out...line by Jorge Chapela dedicated to our friend Cesar Gamba
one of my favorites in Mineral, did it without the big (impossible) dyno...7 funny entrance-moves to a bad pintch, then the crux with a long dead-point move to a bad crimp, left heel and a sketchy move to a hidden crimp at the lip, then topout without even touching the big jug for the dyno haha...3 days of work, on the 4th day I send on the first try
Busted my knee 🙃