A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Philip C
Ivan Heng
Luca De Giorgi
Paul Steinig
Johan Sandberg
Torbjorn
geoClimb
Kai
Dominik
Nicky
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Lofoten / De magiske øyene
1606 in Area
-
1.1.
Moksnesøya 118 routes in Area
- 1.1.1. Kvalvika 24 routes in Field
-
1.1.2.
Kirkefjorden / Kjerkfjord 73 routes in Area
- 1.1.2.1. Olstinden 1 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.2. Klokktinden 1 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.3. Vinstad 1 routes in Crag
-
1.1.2.4.
Bunesfjorden 37 routes in Field
- 1.1.2.4.1. Bunessanda 33 routes in Field
- 1.1.2.4.2. Bunesfjorden 4 routes in Field
- 1.1.2.5. Storskiva / Point 551m 1 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.6. Helvetestinden 11 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.7. Stamprevtinden 2 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.8. Merraflestinden 5 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.9. Segltinden 3 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.10. Marklitinden / Maslitinden 5 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.11. Moltbærtinden 1 routes in Cliff
- 1.1.2.12. Breiflogtinden 4 routes in Crag
- 1.1.2.13. Branntuva 1 routes in Crag
- 1.1.3. Reineburger 5 routes in Crag
- 1.1.4. Akkarviktinden 1 routes in Crag
- 1.1.5. Ølkontinden 2 routes in Crag
- 1.1.6. Reinesvaet 5 routes in Crag
-
1.1.7.
Tindstinden 7 routes in Crag
- 1.1.7.1. The boulders 6 routes in Field
-
1.2.
Flakstadøya 93 routes in Area
- 1.2.1. Digertinden 1 routes in Crag
- 1.2.2. Andopshesten Massif 4 routes in Area
- 1.2.3. Stjerntinden 1 routes in Area
- 1.2.4. Stortind 7 routes in Crag
-
1.2.5.
Flakstadpollen / Nufjordkrysset 24 routes in Field
- 1.2.5.1. Heilt rå-steinen / Boulder A 8 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.2. Ting & Tang / Boulder B 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.3. Mumbojumbo / Boulder C 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.4. Ekkaman / Boulder D 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.5. Flo / Boulder E 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.6. Mandela / Boulder F 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.7. Mighty Prow / Boulder G 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.8. Svette Hender / Boulder H 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.9. Fråste-Eggen / Boulder I 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.5.10. Langneset-Buldern / Boulder J 2 routes in Boulder
-
1.2.6.
Ramberg 39 routes in Crag
-
1.2.6.1.
The boulders 37 routes in Field
- 1.2.6.1.1. Beach boulder 11 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.6.1.2. Skagsanden 19 routes in Field
- 1.2.6.1.3. Idyllsteinen 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.6.1.4. Kaptein Supertruse 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.6.1.5. Tralala steinen 1 routes in Boulder
-
1.2.6.1.
The boulders 37 routes in Field
-
1.2.7.
Storura 17 routes in Field
- 1.2.7.1. Boulder A 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.2. Boulder B 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.3. Boulder F 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.4. Boulder M 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.5. Moulder N 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.6. Boulder O 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.7. Boulder P 0 routes in Boulder
- 1.2.7.8. Blue Skies 1 routes in Boulder
-
1.3.
Vestvågøy 252 routes in Area
-
1.3.1.
Gimsøya 35 routes in Area
- 1.3.1.1. Hoven 3 routes in Crag
-
1.3.1.2.
Gimsøysand 13 routes in Field
- 1.3.1.2.1. Boulder A / Finnish Line 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.1.2.2. Boulder B / Pinnocchio 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.1.2.3. Boulder C 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.1.2.4. Boulder D / Grizzly 6 routes in Boulder
-
1.3.1.3.
Gimsøymyren 16 routes in Field
- 1.3.1.3.1. Dubble Blocks 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.1.3.2. Crocodile Dundee 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.1.3.3. Storknubben 8 routes in Field
- 1.3.1.4. Boathouse Wall 1 routes in Crag
- 1.3.1.5. Vestvagøy Bridge Ice 2 routes in Sector
-
1.3.2.
Valbergsveien Is / 815 Ice 3 routes in Area
- 1.3.2.1. Smorttinden 2 routes in Crag
- 1.3.2.2. Varden 1 routes in Cliff
-
1.3.3.
Smorten 22 routes in Field
- 1.3.3.1. Where´s my feet / Boulder A 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.3.2. Morena / Boulder B 9 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.3.3. Game of Drones / Boulder C 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.3.4. Low / Boulder D 9 routes in Boulder
-
1.3.4.
Valberg 26 routes in Area
- 1.3.4.1. Finnhamn / Risøya 3 routes in Field
-
1.3.4.2.
Skokkelvika 15 routes in Field
- 1.3.4.2.1. Slartibartfast / Boulder A 11 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.4.2.2. Moaiern / Boulder B 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.4.3. Risryggen 8 routes in Field
-
1.3.5.
Justad 11 routes in Area
-
1.3.5.1.
Kartneset 3 routes in Field
- 1.3.5.1.1. Excalibur / Boulder A 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.5.1.2. Kid Fisher / Boulder B 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.5.2. Trolldalstjonna 4 routes in Field
-
1.3.5.3.
Kangerura 2 routes in Field
- 1.3.5.3.1. Delirium / Boulder E 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.5.3.2. Boulder F 1 routes in Boulder
-
1.3.5.1.
Kartneset 3 routes in Field
- 1.3.6. Stamsund 20 routes in Area
- 1.3.7. Sand 6 routes in Field
- 1.3.8. Haveren 3 routes in Crag
- 1.3.9. Eggum 41 routes in Crag
-
1.3.10.
Unstad 29 routes in Field
- 1.3.10.1. Fjollejalla 2 routes in Cliff
-
1.3.10.2.
Unstad Nord 2 routes in Field
- 1.3.10.2.1. Back to the sea 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.10.3. Unstad Syd / Lofotlam 24 routes in Field
-
1.3.11.
Uttakleiv 55 routes in Field
-
1.3.11.1.
Syd 37 routes in Sector
- 1.3.11.1.1. Lille overhenget 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.2. Baugen 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.3. Yttersia 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.4. ABS 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.5. Frem og tilbake 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.6. Storm music 6 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.7. Golden wall 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.8. Høyre veggen 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.9. Kunstneren 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.10. Alaote 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.11. Sjø overhenget 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.12. Sjøveggen 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.13. Strandveggen 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.14. Parkeringsveggen 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.1.15. Torstein´s rail 5 routes in Boulder
-
1.3.11.2.
Nord 18 routes in Sector
- 1.3.11.2.1. Halvmånen 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.2. Svenneprøven 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.3. Vegglusen 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.4. Utdrikningslaget 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.5. Christiansens kant 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.6. Andreas Travers 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.7. Centralveggen 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.3.11.2.8. Overhengende veggen 1 routes in Boulder
-
1.3.11.1.
Syd 37 routes in Sector
- 1.3.12. Kriktinden 1 routes in Crag
-
1.3.1.
Gimsøya 35 routes in Area
-
1.4.
Austvågøy 1143 routes in Area
-
1.4.1.
Brenna 17 routes in Field
- 1.4.1.1. Boulder A / Around the world 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.1.2. Boulder B 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.1.3. Boulder C 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.1.4. Boulder D 4 routes in Boulder
-
1.4.2.
Lyngvær 88 routes in Area
-
1.4.2.1.
Lyngvær Boulders / Monster / Stem Bastensen 78 routes in Field
- 1.4.2.1.1. La Perla 12 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.2.1.2. Monster 16 routes in Field
- 1.4.2.1.3. Stem Bastensen 50 routes in Field
-
1.4.2.1.
Lyngvær Boulders / Monster / Stem Bastensen 78 routes in Field
-
1.4.3.
Rørvika 24 routes in Area
- 1.4.3.1. The Ice 2 routes in Area
- 1.4.3.2. The Rock and Roll Ridge 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.3.3. Upper Wall 11 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.3.4. Lower Wall 9 routes in Area
-
1.4.4.
Pianokrakken 90 routes in Crag
- 1.4.4.1. Sørfjellet 6 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.4.2. Housewives 3 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.4.3. Maurpillaren 10 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.4.4. Svenskeveggen 14 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.4.5. Oceanside minnerisset / Master Blaster 8 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.4.6. Donkey Kong 16 routes in Field
-
1.4.4.7.
Commodore 8 routes in Field
- 1.4.4.7.1. Boulder A / Commodore 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.4.7.2. Boulder B / Viileä viive 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.4.7.3. Boulder C / Helmenkalastaja 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.4.7.4. Boulder D / Ubderberg 3 routes in Boulder
-
1.4.5.
Djupfjord 71 routes in Area
- 1.4.5.1. The ice 0 routes in Area
-
1.4.5.2.
The boulders 26 routes in Field
- 1.4.5.2.1. Lofoten Tourist 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.5.2.2. Big boulders sector / Liquid Explosion 13 routes in Field
- 1.4.5.2.3. Rock Shapes 8 routes in Field
- 1.4.5.3. Coley Smoke 7 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.5.4. Bare blåbær 6 routes in Crag
- 1.4.5.5. Pillaren (Point 713m) 10 routes in Crag
- 1.4.5.6. Budalstinden 5 routes in Crag
- 1.4.5.7. Djupfjord wall 6 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.5.8. Djupfjord Buttress 3 routes in Crag
- 1.4.5.9. Two Faces Buttress 3 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.5.10. Sjøsvaet 5 routes in Crag
-
1.4.6.
Presten 141 routes in Crag
- 1.4.6.1. Corridor boulders 14 routes in Field
-
1.4.6.2.
Presten boulders / Hammaren 98 routes in Field
- 1.4.6.2.1. Boulder A / Prestentraversen 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.2. Boulder B / Morstadstrekket 8 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.3. Boulder C / Flaket 9 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.4. Boulder D / Lofotsommer 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.5. Boulder E / Presten Roof 7 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.6. Boulder F / Lille overhenget 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.7. Boulder G / Flakeggen 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.8. Boulder H / Flakeggen 7 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.9. Boulder I / Andreas vegg 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.10. Boulder J / Røde risset 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.11. Boulder K / Giljotinen 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.12. Boulder L / Posøren 13 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.13. Boulder M / Gråveggen 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.14. Boulder N / Panodraama 10 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.15. Boulder O / Lillegutt 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.16. Boulder P / Solan & Ludvig 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.17. Boulder Q / Fuglekassa 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.18. Boulder R / Sad Brit 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.19. Boulder S / Moonblock 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.20. Boulder T / Roadkill 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.2.21. Boulder U / Backside beauty 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.6.3. Lille Presten 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.6.4. Presten 20 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.6.5. Stålormsrisset 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.6.6. Harley Davidson Wall 5 routes in Cliff
-
1.4.7.
Gandalf 59 routes in Crag
-
1.4.7.1.
Gandalf boulders 19 routes in Field
- 1.4.7.1.1. Boulder A / Randalf 15 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.7.1.2. Boulder B 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.7.1.3. Boulder C 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.7.1.4. Boulder D 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.7.2. Live Aid 5 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.7.3. Gandalf Main 25 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.7.4. Gandalf Upper 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.7.5. Silmarillion Wall 4 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.7.6. The Hobbit 4 routes in Cliff
-
1.4.7.1.
Gandalf boulders 19 routes in Field
-
1.4.8.
Festvåg 46 routes in Crag
- 1.4.8.1. Lille Festvåg 10 routes in Crag
- 1.4.8.2. Store Festvåg 27 routes in Crag
-
1.4.9.
Nipen 36 routes in Area
- 1.4.9.1. Urvika 10 routes in Field
- 1.4.9.2. Store Nipen 1 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.9.3. Lille Nipen 1 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.9.4. Senior veggen 11 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.9.5. Junior veggen 13 routes in Cliff
-
1.4.10.
Henningsvær 11 routes in Field
- 1.4.10.1. The School 6 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.10.2. Waterfront 5 routes in Boulder
-
1.4.11.
The Coast 64 routes in Area
-
1.4.11.1.
The boulders 35 routes in Field
- 1.4.11.1.1. Geitvikneset 21 routes in Field
- 1.4.11.1.2. Geitvika Boulders 14 routes in Field
- 1.4.11.2. Jomfrupillaren 3 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.11.3. Geitvika 4 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.11.4. Hamlet Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.11.5. Time is a disaster 8 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.11.6. Migan pillaren 5 routes in Cliff
-
1.4.11.7.
Kvandalstind / Point 833 4 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.11.7.1. Østryggen 2 routes in Sector
-
1.4.11.1.
The boulders 35 routes in Field
- 1.4.12. Vågakallen 24 routes in Crag
-
1.4.13.
Kalle-området 205 routes in Area
-
1.4.13.1.
Trolldalen 43 routes in Crag
- 1.4.13.1.1. Trolltrappen 4 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.1.2. Trollfestningen 14 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.1.3. Glåmtinden / Glomtinden 5 routes in Crag
- 1.4.13.1.4. Bertas lefser / Boulder A 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.5. Cabeza / Boulder B 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.6. Man Without Qualities / Boulder C 3 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.7. Power Slab / Boulder D-E 4 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.8. Flying V / Boulder F 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.9. Sea of Crimps / Boulder G 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.10. Railbreak / Boulder H 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.11. Pickin' Flowers / Boulder I 1 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.1.12. Waldorf & Statler / Boulder J 2 routes in Boulder
-
1.4.13.2.
Kallebukta 47 routes in Crag
- 1.4.13.2.1. The boulders 37 routes in Field
- 1.4.13.2.2. Honnikornsvaet 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.2.3. Cornflakesveggen 4 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.2.4. Apa 4 routes in Cliff
-
1.4.13.3.
Øvredalen 13 routes in Crag
- 1.4.13.3.1. Lille Vågakallen 2 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.3.2. Alkoholveggen 8 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.3.3. Småkallanryggen 3 routes in Cliff
-
1.4.13.4.
Paradiset 102 routes in Crag
- 1.4.13.4.1. The boulders 17 routes in Field
- 1.4.13.4.2. Vågarisset 3 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.3. Dammen 11 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.4. Dosethrisset 6 routes in Crag
- 1.4.13.4.5. Draughella 5 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.13.4.6. Main Cliff 15 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.7. Svenske Diedret 7 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.8. Butter Arms 10 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.9. Storsvaet 6 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.10. Living in Paradise 11 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.11. Demonstranten 5 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.13.4.12. Kveldskosen / Dama Dablam 6 routes in Sector
-
1.4.13.1.
Trolldalen 43 routes in Crag
-
1.4.14.
Kabelvåg- området 140 routes in Area
- 1.4.14.1. Dalsjorda 3 routes in Crag
- 1.4.14.2. Ørsvåg 13 routes in Field
- 1.4.14.3. Sandvika 27 routes in Crag
- 1.4.14.4. Ursvika 4 routes in Boulder
-
1.4.14.5.
Urdstabben 22 routes in Crag
- 1.4.14.5.1. Hovedveggen / North Wall 13 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.14.5.2. Sydveggen / South Wall 7 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.14.5.3. Nordland Pils 2 routes in Boulder
- 1.4.14.6. Hjørnet 10 routes in Crag
-
1.4.14.7.
Finnvika 61 routes in Crag
- 1.4.14.7.1. Finnvika/Tjeldbergvika Boulders 46 routes in Field
-
1.4.15.
Stor Kongsvatnet- området 2 routes in Area
- 1.4.15.1. Tjeldbergtind ice crag 0 routes in Cliff
- 1.4.15.2. Damvatnet 2 routes in Area
-
1.4.16.
Svolvær- området 69 routes in Area
- 1.4.16.1. The boulders 53 routes in Field
- 1.4.16.2. Svolværgeita 7 routes in Crag
- 1.4.16.3. Kirkegårdsrisset 1 routes in Crag
- 1.4.16.4. Blåtinden 2 routes in Crag
- 1.4.16.5. Svolværveien Ice 3 routes in Sector
- 1.4.16.6. Skråpillaren 2 routes in Crag
- 1.4.16.7. Råna 1 routes in Crag
-
1.4.17.
Northeast 56 routes in Region
-
1.4.17.1.
Skrova 6 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.1.1. Skrova Øst 6 routes in Field
- 1.4.17.1.2. Stappen 0 routes in Crag
- 1.4.17.2. Lillemolla 3 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.3. Stormolla / Storemolla 9 routes in Area
-
1.4.17.4.
Ptarmigan Slabs 5 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.4.1. Hellskardtindan 1 routes in Crag
- 1.4.17.4.2. Hellskardnuten 4 routes in Crag
- 1.4.17.5. Rulten 11 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.6. Geitgaljen 4 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.7. Trakta / Litlkorsnestinden 2 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.8. Higravtindan 3 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.9. Abrahamstind 4 routes in Area
- 1.4.17.10. Fiskebøl / Rennarelvfossen / Sløverfjord Tunnel 3 routes in Crag
- 1.4.17.11. Stauren 5 routes in Crag
-
1.4.17.1.
Skrova 6 routes in Area
-
1.4.1.
Brenna 17 routes in Field
-
1.1.
Moksnesøya 118 routes in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lofoten
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 68.140538, 13.991548
- N6
- 'Den siste viking'
- N6+
- 'Vågarisset'
- N7-
- 'Housewives'
- N7
- 'Elvis'
- N7+
- 'Ormen Lange'
- N8-
- 'Dorisraffset'
- N8
- 'Stålormsrisset'
- N8+
- 'Thundra'
- N9-
- 'Minnerisset'
descripción
There´s separate guidebooks available for the trad & sport, bouldering & skiing. For information on winter climbing, a combination of the facebook group & TheCrag are your best resources.
Where possible, please support businesses which contribute to the local climbing scene. Guidebooks and equipment are available in Svolvær from Skandinavisk, locally based & certified guides from I Fri Natur and Bergtagen and shoe resoling from the Kabelvåg based Artic Soles.
Acceso
Prime rock climbing season is May to late September.
Because of it´s coastal climate, ice conditions vary wildly. When the ice gods are kind, December to February is the best time to swing an axe. If the gods are mad, more stable continental conditions can found around Narvik & Abisko.
Peak ski touring conditions kick in when the polar storms subside & mørketid is over (February to April).
Alojamiento
A good start for general trip logistics can be found on the
Historia
A dirty little secret of Lofoten trad climbing is things generally aren´t so steep & grades are a little soft. For visiting climbers searching for a challenge, here are some suggested, well protected, testpiece routes at the grade
1.1. Moksnesøya
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 67.978623, 13.053719
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8 | ★★ Sjøsvaet, Å | 4 | 120m |
1.1.1. Kvalvika
- Summary:
-
24 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.068478, 13.073678
1.1.1.1. Oceanside
- Summary:
-
16 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.072250, 13.072039
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 17 kg torsk | 6B+ | ||||
2 | ★ Black Rider | 7A | ||||
3 | ★ Flying colors | 6C | ||||
4 | Nameless #4 | 5B | ||||
5 | ★ Double Trouble | 7B | ||||
6 | Bøttetak | 5C | ||||
7 | ★★★ Papillon | 8A | ||||
8 | ★★★ Undertaker | 7C+ | ||||
9 | ★ Imse vimse spindel | 6B+ | ||||
10 | Unknown #10 | 6C | ||||
11 | ★★ Mikä mikä maa | 7A | ||||
12 | Rainbow Roof | 7B+ | ||||
13 | Nameless #13 | 7B | ||||
14 | Yasser | 6B | ||||
15 | Funny Toe | 5+ | ||||
16 | ★★ Lippapoikkari | 7A |
1.1.1.2. Hillside
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.067733, 13.072419
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Diesel Power | 7B | ||||
2 | Jake´s arete | 7B | ||||
3 | Markku´s Flake | 6B | ||||
4 | Christiansens vegg | 6B | ||||
5 | Markku´s Prow | 6B | ||||
6 | Ozzy´s wall | 7B | ||||
7 | Eivindeggen | 6B | ||||
8 | Eivindveggen | 6B |
1.1.2. Kirkefjorden
- Summary:
-
73 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 67.991302, 13.015374
descripción
Some descriptions and topos of the area can be found here-
|
1.1.2.1. Olstinden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.954121, 13.074898
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sørvest pillaren | 5+ |
1.1.2.2. Klokktinden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.979970, 13.080433
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Beyond Cod and Eagle
PA: Stian Bruvoll & Chris Wright, Mar 2023 | WI5+ M8 |
1.1.2.3. Vinstad
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.959830, 12.974625
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pure Addiction | 7 | 280m, 6 |
1.1.2.4. Bunesfjorden
- Summary:
-
37 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 67.976231, 12.969789
1.1.2.4.1. Bunessanda
- Summary:
-
33 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 67.976387, 12.961946
1.1.2.4.2. Bunesfjorden
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 67.971891, 12.983208
1.1.2.5. Storskiva
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.971922, 12.946064
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
East Butress
Description and topo available Descent follows the SE ridge in the direction of Vinstad. PA: Jordi Esteve, Pau Gómez & Gerber Cucurell, 2016 | 6- | 13 |
1.1.2.6. Helvetestinden
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.979850, 12.978434
Acceso
Descent- The slab walkoffs, while chill, would be very gnar if wet
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Main WallA beautiful looking pile of choss | ||||||||
2 |
Left Approximation
PA: Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997 | 6- | 18 | |||||
3 |
★ Terrs i mar
A serious and sandbagged line with a death pitch up high and some difficult route finding. Not recommended. Topo here Some images here: View this post on Instagram More images and brief desription PA: Jordi Esteve & Gerber Cucurell, 2015 | 7- AID:A0 PROT:R - X | 630m, 16 | |||||
4 |
Thirst in the clouds / Helvetesveggen
An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here PA: Orujov Alex & et al, 2009 | 6+ AID:A3 | 16 | |||||
5 |
Noensfoten
PA: Salvador Llorens & Guillermo Cuadrado, 2015 | 7- | 570m, 14 | |||||
6 |
★ Ticket to Greenland
A serious and sandbagged line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards. Not recommended. Topo here Images here: View this post on Instagram PA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek | 6+ PROT:R | 12 | |||||
French PillarThe striking buttress on the right hand side of the main wall. | ||||||||
8 |
★★ The Next Best Thing
> Some images- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Adam Stack, 2005 | 6+ | 380m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Norwegian Sheep Ranch
One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6. PA: Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden, 2005 | 7 PROT:R | 6 | |||||
Far Right | ||||||||
11 |
★★ Highway to hell
Perhaps the most popular route to the summit PA: Åsmund Vaage & Steinar Holden, 2016 | 6- | 250m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Tradicionarius
PA: Salvador Llorens & Guillermo Cuadrado, 2015 | 7- | 250m, 6 | |||||
13 |
Första approximationen
PA: Joakim Söderström & Jonas Wiklund, 2010 | 7+ | 130m, 4 | |||||
14 |
Första approximationen direkt
The direct finish to Första approximationen | 6+ | 20m | |||||
|
1.1.2.7. Stamprevtinden
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.990646, 12.969519
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sweet dreams then beautiful nightmares
PA: Jiri Švihálek & Ondra Švihálek, 2012 | 7 AID:A2 | 480m, 13 | |||
2 |
The Human Timeline
On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.
PAL: Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, 25 Mayo 2019 | 7/7+ | 600m, 20 |
1.1.2.8. Merraflestinden
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.990506, 12.994837
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Kor e hammaren Edvard
PA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002 | 6+ AID:A1 | 14 | |||||
2 |
Borr i Bekkmørtna
PA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002 | 7- AID:A0 | 12 | |||||
3 |
Indiana
PA: Rob Lamey & Mike Rolf, 2016 | 7 | 10 | |||||
4 |
Bilberry Meadow
Topo here. Be prepared to run it out at the grade for sections on the 2/3 crux pitches. Some big cams nice to have for the rest of the climb. A description and some images of the route can be found here PA: Rob Lamey & Mike Rolf, 2016 | 7+ | 8 | |||||
5 |
Syv Veggen
There are topos here and here. The first ascentionists recommend taking a #6 to protect the pitch 5 off width. A description and some images of the route can be found here PA: Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, Mayo 2017 | 7+ | 480m, 11 |
1.1.2.9. Segltinden
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.984115, 13.042175
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hoist the colours
PA: L. Martin Solberg & J. Broch Haugue, 2014 | 7+ AID:A0 | 340m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Achilles Tendon
PA: G. Cuadrado & G. Cucurell, 2015 | 7- | 340m | |||||
3 | Bergekongens Krone | 7- |
1.1.2.10. Marklitinden
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.000041, 13.012406
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
South WallReports from parties repeating these routes have suggested the climbing isn´t so nice, protection isn´t the best & there´s some loose rock. If that sales pitch tickles your interest, there are topos here. | ||||||||
2 |
Sørveggen
PA: Ruth Fenn & Stefan Grisser, 1999 | 5+ | 10 | |||||
3 |
Sjømann
A topo & some images available here PA: Gerber Cucurell & Felix Queipo, 2016 | 6- PROT:R | ||||||
4 |
Hungry Eyes
PA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek, 2009 | 6 AID:A1 PROT:R | 400m, 11 | |||||
5 | Right pillar | 5+ | ||||||
North Wall | ||||||||
7 |
`Paret Nord´
A description & topo available here PA: Unknown | 7 AID:A1 |
1.1.2.11. Moltbærtinden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.000734, 12.980600
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Diamantfinner
On the North Face of Moltbaertinden North Peak. Description & topo available
PAL: Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, 24 Mayo 2019 | 7 AID:A2 | 400m |
1.1.2.12. Breiflogtinden
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.006799, 12.981246
Acceso
Easy descent by walking South from the summit then down the gulley between Breiflogtinden / Moltbærtinden (trail used by hikers since at least the early 1900s)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Permit to Åsgård
Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted. PA: Holger Jantsch, Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997 | 7 | 600m, 16 | |||||
2 |
★★★ One hundred years later
Advertencia Equipo fijo: No rappel over the route One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.
Some images here- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Helmut Gargitter, Simon Kehrer, Ivan Calderon, Fredrico Pisani & Fernando Rubio, 2013 | 7+ | 600m, 14 | |||||
3 |
Recht Rinne
PA: Svein Smelvær & Bjørn Hanche-Olsen, 1972 | 6- | 17 | |||||
4 |
Arctic Odyssey
Description and topo available here: PA: D. Panov, A. Panov & A. Demirov, 2017 | 8- AID:A3 PROT:R | 950m, 20 | |||||
|
1.1.2.13. Branntuva
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.028763, 13.015610
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sound of waves
Bold slab climbing. There´s a topo here. AAC article with a description here PA: Lukas Marecek & Jirí Svihálek, 2009 | 6+ PROT:R | 450m |
1.1.3. Reineburger
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.927193, 13.084816
Resumen
This big boulder lies just outside of Reine. A few easy lines make it to an ideal climbing destination for beginners and uncertain weather.
descripción
The Reineburger is a beautiful big boulder at the shore, just outside of Reine. Two easy cracks and a tricky arete provide enough climbing fun for a few hours.
Acceso
From the parking at the entrance of Reine walk 100-200 meters towards the tunnel (south). You will see the boulder down by the sea. 2 minutes.
Historia
The lines have first been recorded by Luca De Giorgi and Paul White during a climbing trip in September 2016. Due to it's proximity to the road and town and clearly visible cracks, it is probable that the FA's where done by other climbers earlier on.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Nobody's River
Climb the inside corner, tricky move just before the end. PA: Paul White, 5 Sep 2016 | FR:6a+ | 8m | |||||
2 |
★ Little nose of el Cap
Climb the arete, sustained climbing to the big pocket to the right. Then one more long move to the final holds. PA: Luca De Giorgi, 5 Sep 2016 | {FR} 6a | 8m | |||||
3 |
★★★ That time you got chased by an angry Norvegian farmer
Follow the obvious crack up the inside corner. Easy to protect. Beware the thin flake. PA: Luca De Giorgi, 5 Sep 2016 | {FR} 4 | 8m | |||||
4 |
Nobody likes Gill
Follow the crack to the right and climb the arete til the top. PA: Paul White, 5 Sep 2016 | {FR} 3 | 8m | |||||
5 |
★★ right on the edge
Make a big step over the water and climb "right on the Edge". PA: Georg Schrutka, 24 Ag 2019 | 4- | 10m |
1.1.4. Akkarviktinden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.967818, 13.162175
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Todarodes Sagittatus | 5+ AID:A2 | 200m, 5 |
1.1.5. Ølkontinden
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.973972, 13.157337
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | It's All About the Numbers | 6+ | ||||
2 | Looks can be Deceiving | 6 |
1.1.6. Reinesvaet
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.984292, 13.171135
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The American Tourist | 6 | ||||
2 | ★★ Sea Breeze | 5 | ||||
3 | Nonchalance | 6 | 8 | |||
4 | Aanie Onyoo | 5- | 10 | |||
5 |
Reine Couloir
This line tackles the gully on the broken face to the right of Reinesvæt PA: Benson & Robertson, 2001 | 500m |
1.1.7. Tindstinden
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 67.889043, 12.979277
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | ★★ Tindstinden | 5+ | 100m |
1.1.7.1. The boulders
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 67.883617, 12.994803
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Kolotus
PA: Hilla Rudanko, 2017 | 6A | ||||
2 |
Pitkäveto
PA: Anssi Kankkunen, 2017 | 7A | ||||
3 |
Helvetin hyvä paimen
PA: Anssi Kankkunen, 2017 | 7A+ | ||||
4 | Sarvipää | 7A+ | ||||
5 | Jäkälä | 6B | ||||
6 |
Pötkötys
PA: Hilla Rudanko, 2017 | 6A |
1.2. Flakstadøya
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 68.074637, 13.315374
|
1.2.1. Digertinden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.108449, 13.355448
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Nordveggen
Route descriptions here: http://www.ntk.no/topo/nordveggen-digertinden/ https://www.alpineadventures.no/single-post/2017/03/20/And-the-journey-goes-on | WI4+ M3 | 400m |
1.2.2. Andopshesten Massif
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.096722, 13.370037
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
BlekktindThese lines are located on the East Wall & are described in the 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet. A topo here | ||||||||
2 |
French Route
Not much information available. It´s left of Den Norske Sor-Afrika Linja and is pictured in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. Low resolution topo here PA: 2011 | |||||||
3 |
Den Norske Sor-Afrika Linja
PA: 2009 | WI5 M4 | 700m | |||||
4 |
Slovenian-Norwegian Route / `Line B´
Right of Den Norske Sor-Afrika Linja and left of the American route, this line does not top out (escaping right at the upper amfi) | |||||||
5 |
The American Route / `Turner Route´
PA: 2009 |
1.2.3. Stjerntinden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Area
Lat / Long: 68.048024, 13.289895
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Normalveien
Route description here: http://alpinklatring.blogspot.com/2013/03/stjerntinden-frste-vinterbestigning.html Images here: View this post on Instagram | M4/5 | 930m |
1.2.4. Stortind
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.080471, 13.270055
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Øst pillaren | 6 | 8 | |||||
2 | Aina sugar kantarell | 7 | 11 | |||||
3 | Slovakiaruta | 7- | ||||||
The Ice | ||||||||
5 |
Norwegian-Slovenian Route / `Line C´
Described in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014 and the 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet, Topos here & here PA: Trym Atle Sæland & Marko Prezelj | 800m | ||||||
6 |
Rosenberg and Watn line
PA: Ben Rosenberg-Hans & Petter Watn | WI4 | 400m | |||||
7 | Way Out West | AID:A0 M7 | 600m | |||||
8 | All Good Boys go to Heaven | WI4+ M3 | 600m |
1.2.5. Flakstadpollen
- Summary:
-
24 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.071760, 13.333545
1.2.5.1. Heilt rå-steinen
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.071627, 13.347141
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Moon areté | 8A | ||||
2 |
★★★ Rough Gem
PA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2015 | 8B | ||||
3 | Buseggen | 7C | ||||
4 | Retursva | 5+ | ||||
5 | ★ Rå egg | 7A | ||||
6 | Rå makt | 6B | ||||
7 | ★ Rå makt sds | 7A | ||||
8 | Boulder problem #7 |
1.2.5.2. Ting & Tang
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ting & Tang | 6A+ | ||||
2 | ★★ Tin & Tang SDS | 6B+ | ||||
3 | Medan du sov | 5 |
1.2.5.3. Mumbojumbo
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Mumbojumbo | 6B+ |
1.2.5.4. Ekkaman
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ekkaman | 6A |
1.2.5.5. Flo
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Flo | 6A+ | ||||
2 | Flatt batteri | 5+ |
1.2.5.6. Mandela
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nelson Mandela | 6A |
1.2.5.7. Mighty Prow
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unknown projekt |
1.2.5.8. Svette Hender
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Renault Clio | 7A+ | ||||
2 | Store svette hender | 6B | ||||
3 | Ukjent projekt |
1.2.5.9. Fråste-Eggen
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ville vesten | 5 | ||||
2 | Fråste-eggen | 6B |
1.2.5.10. Langneset-Buldern
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nameless #23 | 6A+ | ||||
2 | Nameless #25 | 5 |
1.2.6. Ramberg
- Summary:
-
39 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.084678, 13.256545
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | Ramberger | 7 | 4 | |||
3 | Midtgardsormen | 6+ | 4 |
1.2.6.1. The boulders
- Summary:
-
37 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.084678, 13.257132
1.2.6.1.1. Beach boulder
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.094474, 13.239575
1.2.6.1.2. Skagsanden
- Summary:
-
19 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.104031, 13.276433
1.2.6.1.3. Idyllsteinen
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.104859, 13.255268
1.2.6.1.4. Kaptein Supertruse
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.105204, 13.260517
1.2.6.1.5. Tralala steinen
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.105089, 13.258638
1.2.7. Storura
- Summary:
-
17 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.067893, 13.250139
1.2.7.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.065613, 13.243673
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Märkä Tuuli | 6C | ||||
2 | Pain is a motivator | 7A+ | ||||
3 | Into the fog | 6C |
1.2.7.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.066300, 13.244662
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ 3,2,1 go! | 7B | ||||
2 | ★ Unused route / Unnütze Raute | 7B | ||||
3 | Chaots in Hurry | {FB} 6C | ||||
4 | Chaots in Hurry sit start | 7A | ||||
5 | ★★ Cheater on the wall / cheater an die wand | 7B+ |
1.2.7.3. Boulder F
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.067936, 13.244272
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The good morning shit
Sit start | 7C+ |
1.2.7.4. Boulder M
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.066514, 13.246901
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Aika kultaa suihkut | 7A | ||||
2 | Cathrine | 5+ | ||||
3 | Zeta | 6B | ||||
4 | Jones | 6C+ | ||||
5 | Michael Douglas - project | 3 |
1.2.7.5. Moulder N
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.066737, 13.248558
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Kasin pantti | 6A |
1.2.7.6. Boulder O
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.066958, 13.246421
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hihilisko | 6C |
1.2.7.7. Boulder P
1.2.7.8. Blue Skies
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.065064, 13.235064
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Blue Skies
PA: Levin Schilling, 2016 | {FB} 8A+ |
1.3. Vestvågøy
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 68.195346, 13.886171
1.3.1. Gimsøya
- Summary:
-
35 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.302297, 14.161859
1.3.1.1. Hoven
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.331326, 14.108617
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
North Col
Described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. There´s a low resloution topo PA: 2011 | WI5 | 120m | |||||
2 |
Meling-Frans
Described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. There´s a low resloution topo PA: Thomas Meling & Joel Frans, 2013 | WI4 M5 | 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | Creatures of Love | M5 | 400m |
1.3.1.2. Gimsøysand
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.315203, 14.245339
|
1.3.1.2.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.315532, 14.247258
|
1.3.1.2.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.315393, 14.243427
|
1.3.1.2.3. Boulder C
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.315210, 14.243589
|
1.3.1.2.4. Boulder D
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.314914, 14.244012
|
1.3.1.3. Gimsøymyren
- Summary:
-
16 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.280197, 14.159555
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
4 |
★ Gimsøytraversen
The traverse of the Gimsøy skyline is a fine tour for running/hiking in the summer. Begin via the Storknubben hiking trail then from the Summit continue East along the U-shaped ridges before eventually descending via NW slope of Skjolden. There are a couple of short technical sections which slow things down. Allow a half day for hiking or 3/4 hours for running. A GPX file and photos available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4016851045 | 2 |
1.3.1.3.1. Dubble Blocks
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.280197, 14.159555
|
1.3.1.3.2. Crocodile Dundee
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.292706, 14.167202
|
1.3.1.3.3. Storknubben
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.297160, 14.184726
1.3.1.4. Boathouse Wall
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.261103, 14.197350
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Disappointment in her eyes | 5+ AID:A2 | 35m |
1.3.1.5. Vestvagøy Bridge Ice
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 68.266639, 14.183245
descripción
About 1km back from Sundklakkbrua are two excellent ice lines.
Descenso
Abalakov rapp
Historia
Some images of the lines here-
View this post on Instagram
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Ukjent Gimsøya Ruta 1
Classic ice line forming in gully above the road approximately 1km from Sundklakkbrua. Faces the sun so unlikely to be in season from late jan/early feb (i.e when the sun returns). Abalakov desent. If you know the name, please update. | WI5 | 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ Ukjent Gimsøya Ruta 2
A great mixed line which stays in season longer than the WI5 to the right. | WI3+ | 2 |
1.3.2. Valbergsveien Is
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.261868, 14.135402
1.3.2.1. Smorttinden
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.263238, 14.145573
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Smortaksla Couloir
Directly above the 815/E10 intersection. Steep snow with sections of watefall ice. | WI3 - 4 | 400m | |||
2 |
Anderstinden Linje
Mixed line above Sandvika with many possible variations to the summit. The ice here seems to form slower than the other surrounding routes. Be prepared for classic Lofoten mixed climbing with sections of rock, ice and moss. There is a GPX and photo of one variation available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4651430624 | 500m, 4 |
1.3.2.2. Varden
- Summary:
-
1 route in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.257797, 14.127582
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Varden Linje
Formation below Varden/Anderstinden & above the 815 approximately 3.5km South from Sundklakkbrua. Visible from Henninsvær, forms early & seemingly can stay in condition late into the season (march/early April). The approach exposes you to avalanche terrain; Caution required. Snowshoes or skis handy. | WI4+ | 2 |
1.3.3. Smorten
- Summary:
-
22 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.260695, 14.166639
Acceso
|
1.3.3.1. Where´s my feet
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.261678, 14.165527
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Where's My Feet?
Start from the underclings | 7B+ | ||||||
2 | Negro | 6A |
1.3.3.2. Morena
- Summary:
-
9 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.259676, 14.167295
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pullover | 4+ | ||||||
2 |
★ Moreno
Sit start on flake, traverse low on slopers & finish up left of arête | 6C | ||||||
3 |
Muikkuna
Dyno from the sloper PA: 2019 | 7A | ||||||
4 |
Moreeni
Sit start left side roof. Right hand on undercling, left on pinch. Sloper traverse right & finish up with the Moreno dyno PA: 2016 | 7A | ||||||
5 |
★★ Morena
Sit start on flake, dyno to sloper & mantle up | 6C | ||||||
6 | Cowboysträck | 6A+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | ★★ Pinchcliffe | 5+ | ||||||
8 | Nameless | 6A+ | ||||||
9 | Nameless #2 | 4+ |
1.3.3.3. Game of Drones
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.259746, 14.167295
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Game of Drones | 6A+ | ||||||
2 | Nameless | 5 |
1.3.3.4. Low
- Summary:
-
9 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.259698, 14.167878
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Smal kanal
Sit start deep in the cave. Hard to avoid dabbing with pads | 7A | ||||||
2 | Gubbstön | 5+ | ||||||
3 | Blanquito | 6B | ||||||
4 | Fyrglo | 4+ | ||||||
5 |
★★ Project Flexmix
Sit start on the left with both hands on the horn. Sloper traverse then mantle up onto the flake | 6C | ||||||
6 |
★ Hurdalsrisset
Start up Project Flexmix then continue on the rail into Silly Season | 7A | ||||||
7 | ★ Silly Season | 5+ | ||||||
8 | ★★ Silly Me | 6A | ||||||
9 | Kolmen minuutin muna | 5 |
1.3.4. Valberg
- Summary:
-
26 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.192652, 13.969743
1.3.4.1. Finnhamn
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.191400, 14.018573
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Southern Charm | 5B | ||||
2 | Northern Harm | 6A | ||||
3 | ★★ Melootti | 6C |
1.3.4.2. Skokkelvika
- Summary:
-
15 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.202326, 13.976882
descripción
2 boulders with sandstone like texture. The largest features some of the best problems in Lofoten
Acceso
|
1.3.4.2.1. Slartibartfast
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.202366, 13.977208
|
1.3.4.2.2. Moaiern
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.202186, 13.976127
|
1.3.4.3. Risryggen
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.182117, 13.910508
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Wicked Tuna
A broken flake at the start means this route is also now significantly harder. | 6B+ | ||||
2 | Knekkbrød | 7A | ||||
3 | Kurze Arme, keine Kekse | 7A+ | ||||
4 | Endless possibilities | 7B | ||||
5 | ★ Nameless #4 | 7C | ||||
6 |
★ Public service
A broken flake at the start means this route is now significantly harder than listed in the guidebook (6a). | 6C | ||||
7 | Roll over | 6B | ||||
8 |
Lyn
Image here: https://i.redd.it/lsqw8741lj431.jpg Video beta here: https://youtu.be/egVZYH5lRvY?t=80 | 7B+ |
1.3.5. Justad
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.176042, 13.850325
1.3.5.1. Kartneset
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.182188, 13.859611
1.3.5.1.1. Excalibur
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.182169, 13.860246
1.3.5.1.2. Kid Fisher
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.182193, 13.859192
1.3.5.2. Trolldalstjonna
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.176253, 13.850118
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ A trailer by the sea | 6C | ||||||
2 | Start on the steep side | 7A+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★★ King fisher
Image here- View this post on Instagram | 7A | ||||||
4 |
Mad Max
SDS | 6B |
1.3.5.3. Kangerura
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.169097, 13.843895
1.3.5.3.1. Delirium
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.169947, 13.846583
1.3.5.3.2. Boulder F
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.168226, 13.841240
1.3.6. Stamsund
- Summary:
-
20 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.123321, 13.829098
Resumen
A granite sports crag emerging out from the depths of the corona times (thanks to efforts from Leknes local Håkon Nordhaug)
descripción
Several good quality vertical to slightly overhanging routes on good holds. There is plenty of opportunity for further development.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Skjellaksla | ||||||||
2 | Big Belly Route | 5 | ||||||
3 | ★★ Vaffelsøndag | FR:7a+ | ||||||
4 |
★ Shakalaka bunker
Slab climbing then a jug fest to the chains | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||||
5 |
★★ Mimes brønn
Crimps & slab lead to a steeper finish on good holds | {FR} 6c | 18m | |||||
6 |
★★ Tims drøm
The first route put up. Flowing movement up the scoop leads to crux just belay the chains | {FR} 6b | 17m | |||||
7 |
★ Corona chimney
An easy starts lures you into the darkness. A unique route in this style for Lofoten | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||||
8 |
★★ Vandrefalken
A boulder problem start with easier climbing closer to the chains. May be tough for the grade? PA: Håkon Nordhaug, 2020 | {FR} 7a+ | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 | ★★ Ørnevinger | FR:7a+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
Ace of spades
PA: Simon Hegdahl, Jun 2021 | FR:7c+ | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Hiakk
Sustained climbing on unlikely, but superb featured granite. PA: Håkon Wegge, Mayo 2021 | {FR} 8a | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Black crow king
A short slab then burly moves to establish into the dihedral. It´s engaging stemming, side pulls and jamming from here to the chains. | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||||
13 | Walk in the park | 5 | ||||||
14 |
Projekt 2
The hard open projekt directly through the roof. Potentially 8a? | {FR} 8a | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★ Queen Konkylie
Starts in the corner to the right of the roof. Shared lower off with Projekt 2 PA: Håkon Nordhaug, 2020 | FR:6c+ | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 | ★★ Ruta #16 | FR:6c+ | ||||||
17 | Foxy Lady | 5 | ||||||
18 | Rock and roll slide | 5 | ||||||
19 |
★ Lemon squeezy
Located in the far right corner. | 5 | 15m | |||||
Kattberget2 obvious roof cracks sit on the wall above the Theater/yoga studio | ||||||||
21 |
Ukjent 1
The left roof crack | |||||||
22 |
Ukjent 2
The right roof crack |
1.3.7. Sand
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.314951, 13.873557
Acceso
No access during the summer. Do not walk through the field until the land owner has cut the grass
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Skøgel
Video beta https://youtu.be/2c1QYGLCPhg?t=71 PA: Nalle Hukkataival | 7C | ||||
2 |
★ Second wind
PA: Nalle Hukkataival | 7B | ||||
3 |
★ Outlook
PA: Nalle Hukkataival | 7C | ||||
4 | Nameless 2 | 6A+ | ||||
5 | ★ Nameless | 7A | ||||
6 | Nameless 3 | 5 |
1.3.8. Haveren
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.302214, 13.938967
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Arctic Mousaka | WI4 | ||||||
2 | Første gang | 5 WI4 | 5 | |||||
3 | Shekina | WI7 M4 | 500m |
1.3.9. Eggum
- Summary:
-
41 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.298463, 13.706742
descripción
A bit of an oddity for Lofoten, Eggum is a world class sports crag situated in a cave on the NE tip of Vestvågøy. The majority of routes are hard & steep. You won´t find a crag in Northern Norway with this many options in the 8a & harder range.
Acceso
Park at the harbour & walk 100m towards Eggum (North). On your left there´s a gate to access the paddock. Follow the trail up to the cave.
The paddock´s used for grazing sheep so please close on your way in/out.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The IceThere are at least 4 recorded winter lines around Eggum. 1 on the buttress left of the sports crag; The others just North of Bjørndalen on the walls below Middagsheia. Some potential for new lines on the North facing aspects between Eggum & Unstad. | ||||||||
2 |
British Route
`Follows a long chimney then through a tunnel with a big rock structure above´ PA: 2000 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
Cross Route
Follows natural weakness left of Around the edge. PA: Richard Cross | |||||||
4 |
★ Around the edge
PA: Sigve & Stian Bruvoll, 2018 | WI3+ M6 | ||||||
5 |
Haley-Årtun Route
Located on buttress to the right of Around the edge. Topo and some images here PA: Colin Haley & Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 2011 | |||||||
SeilasgeggenThe wall left of Sector Crux. Rarely climbed. | ||||||||
7 |
★★ Vestfjordseilasen
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2005 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
8 |
★★★ Live 8
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2005 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Sector CruxThe short wall left of the black streaked ´stinky corner´ & the main cliff. It´s deep in the cave and stays dry in most conditions. | ||||||||
10 |
Crux-Judas
Mixed line. Shares lower-off with Rutger Hauer. PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | FR:6b+ | ||||||
11 |
★★ Rutger Hauer
PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
12 |
★ Mølje kalas
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2005 | {FR} 7b | ||||||
13 |
Bråtebrann
Starts up Svart Magi before breaking left halfway & into a full body dyno PA: Robin Mjelle | {FR} 8b | ||||||
14 |
★★ Svart magi
PA: Sindre Sæther, 2005 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
15 |
★★ Lille vakre anna
PA: Eivind Storvik, 2004 | {FR} 6c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Hovedveggen | ||||||||
17 |
★★ Stinker's corner
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2004 | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
18 |
★★ Hoppalong Knut
PA: Knut Hatteland Sømme, 2004 | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
19 |
★★★ Full belastning
The caves classic hard line PA: A Christiansen, 2005 | {FR} 7c+ | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Attaca con tufa
The extension to Full belastning. PA: Eirik Birkelund Olsen, 2007 | {FR} 8a+ | ||||||
21 |
★ Ellinors vise
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2005 | {FR} 7a+ | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Øl som medisin
PA: Jarle Kalland, 2015 | FR:8b | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Commando
The caves classic moderate PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | {FR} 7b+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 |
★★★ Joker nord
The caves king (& hardest) line PA: Sindre Sæther, 2005 | {FR} 8a+ | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Aetat
PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | {FR} 8a | ||||||
26 |
Andreas Ruta
Starts right of Aetat via a rope ladder start. Shared lower-off. PA: Knut Storvik, 2015 | FR:7b+ | ||||||
27 |
★★ Uvørn sjænking
PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | FR:8a+ | 25m | |||||
28 |
★★ Heimlich maneuver
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2004 | FR:7b+ | ||||||
29 |
★★★ Reidar Sjuse
PA: Knut Storvik, 2004 | FR:7c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
30 |
★★★ Gullfaks
The caves classic easy line. PA: K. Storvik & A. Christiansen, 2003 | {FR} 7a+ | 20m | |||||
31 |
Think locally
The direct extension to Gullfaks climbs straight up through a blank looking section of the wall. PA: Die Schlingel, 2019 | FR:7c | 19 | |||||
32 |
Think locally, fuck globally
The open project extension to Think locally. Equip: Die Schlingel, 2019 | FR:8a+ | 43m, 24 | |||||
33 |
★★ Gullpils
The rightwards extension to Gullfaks. PA: Knut Storvik, 2007 | FR:7c+ | 32m | |||||
34 |
★ Polakken
PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | FR:7c | 20m | |||||
35 |
★★★ Alopølsa
PA: Andreas Christiansen, 2007 | FR:7b | 20m | |||||
36 |
★★ Alopils
The extenstion to Alopølsa. PA: Knut Storvik | FR:7c | 25m | |||||
37 |
★★ Alkotest
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2005 | FR:7a | 20m | |||||
38 |
★★ Ildvann
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2005 | FR:6c/c+ | 15m | |||||
39 |
★★★ Sankthansormen
The extension to Ildvann. PA: Eivind Storvik, 2005 | FR:7a | 28m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
40 |
★ Eggulf
PA: Knut Storvik, 2003 | FR:5c | ||||||
41 | ★★ Baginski spesial | FR:5c | ||||||
42 | ★ Forselv rederi | FR:6a | ||||||
43 |
★ Prinsessens søster
The P2 extension to Forselv rederi. | FR:7a | ||||||
44 | ★★ Is this all, Sophie? | FR:6a | ||||||
45 |
★★ Got you fooled there...
The extenstion to Is this all, Sophie? | FR:6a+ |
1.3.10. Unstad
- Summary:
-
29 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.267201, 13.585441
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ukjent 1
If conditions are mild, some ice forms on the Northern end of Unstad (Kleivheia). Some images here: View this post on Instagram | WI4+ | 2 |
1.3.10.1. Fjollejalla
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.251759, 13.657599
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The outset
The left route. | 6 | 35m | |||
2 | Podieplass | 6 | 35m |
1.3.10.2. Unstad Nord
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.279239, 13.582853
1.3.10.2.1. Back to the sea
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.279235, 13.582849
1.3.10.3. Unstad Syd
- Summary:
-
24 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.259054, 13.586458
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Flash factor | 4 | ||||
2 | Flare factor | |||||
3 | Lean mean | |||||
4 | Crack attack | |||||
5 | Flee for cover | |||||
6 | Worry free | |||||
7 | Quick zZz | |||||
8 | Flipp flopp | |||||
9 | Squeeze | |||||
10 | Sheep shot | |||||
11 | Highlands | |||||
12 | Lowlands | |||||
13 | Cornerstone | |||||
14 | Diamonds are hard | |||||
15 | Swimming up | |||||
16 | Sorcery | |||||
17 | Hercules | |||||
18 | Low water solo | |||||
19 | Lullestol | |||||
20 | Kykkelikokos | |||||
21 | Dråpetest | |||||
22 | Borderline broadway | |||||
23 | Ridge rally | |||||
24 | Horizontal asymptote |
1.3.11. Uttakleiv
- Summary:
-
55 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.214529, 13.513794
1.3.11.1. Syd
- Summary:
-
37 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 68.207346, 13.492125
1.3.11.1.1. Lille overhenget
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.2. Baugen
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.3. Yttersia
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.4. ABS
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.1.5. Frem og tilbake
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.1.6. Storm music
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.1.7. Golden wall
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.8. Høyre veggen
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.9. Kunstneren
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.10. Alaote
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.11. Sjø overhenget
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.1.12. Sjøveggen
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.1.13. Strandveggen
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.1.14. Parkeringsveggen
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.1.15. Torstein´s rail
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.2. Nord
- Summary:
-
18 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 68.221043, 13.533726
1.3.11.2.1. Halvmånen
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.2.2. Svenneprøven
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.2.3. Vegglusen
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.2.4. Utdrikningslaget
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.2.5. Christiansens kant
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.2.6. Andreas Travers
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
1.3.11.2.7. Centralveggen
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
1.3.11.2.8. Overhengende veggen
- Summary:
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1 route in Boulder
1.3.12. Kriktinden
- Summary:
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1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.220764, 13.627567
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ Vaffelvika
Park near Steinsfjorden & walk along the coast until an easy gully appears. Solo up this. Climb the superb steep water ice. The remainder of the route is described as ´thin ice, interesting mixed climbing and frozen moss´. Descend to the South East. Topo and further description here PA: Stian Bruvoll & C. Wright, 17 Mar 2019 | WI4+ M4 | 620m |
1.4. Austvågøy
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 68.307971, 14.684717
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1.4.1. Brenna
- Summary:
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17 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.329203, 14.334922
descripción
A quiet, scenic village with a handful of established problems. There´s a lot of potential for further development.
Several nice camping spots can be found along the 864.
Acceso
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1.4.1.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
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5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.315154, 14.310987
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 | Pulley | 6A | ||||
2 | Sidestep | 5B | ||||
3 | Wall of Shame | 5B | ||||
4 | Around the world | 6B | ||||
5 | Gode Tak | 6A |
1.4.1.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
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5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.324821, 14.320877
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Supaman | 6A+ | ||||||
2 | ★ Starthjelp | 5B | ||||||
3 | Rock'n Roll | 6C+ | ||||||
4 |
Old Man and the Sea
Video beta: https://youtu.be/HrBsZ7l7yPM?t=50 | 7B+ | ||||||
5 | Espen's | 7B+ |
1.4.1.3. Boulder C
- Summary:
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3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.324704, 14.320920
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Cake Thirty | 6B+ | ||||||
2 | Ghostface | 7A | ||||||
3 | Lazy Feather | 5 |
1.4.1.4. Boulder D
- Summary:
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4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.324995, 14.321335
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Ukjent 1 | 6C | ||||||
2 | Ukjent 2 | 6C | ||||||
3 | Ukjent 3 | 7A | ||||||
4 |
Ukjent 4
The cleaned roadside highball. Still a Projekt? |
1.4.2. Lyngvær
- Summary:
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88 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.220855, 14.222990
restricciones
Main parking here
(68.213343, 14.218042)
For the Monster Wall, park in the pullout North of Stem Bastensen.
(68.221619, 14.216780)
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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BoulderingBoulders with ocean views on both sides of the E10. Contains several classic Lofoten problems. | ||||||||
The Ice | ||||||||
4 |
Ukjent 1
Some images here: View this post on Instagram Location and images here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4679406358 | |||||||
5 |
Vestre Linje
Abalakov descent | WI4 | 3 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Høyre linje
Abalakov descent. Some images View this post on Instagram | WI4 | 3 | |||||
7 |
Kamin linje
Abalakov descent | WI4 | 3 | |||||
8 | Ukjent 5 | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
White SlabThe clean white slab above the parking. There´s currently 2 routes here with potential for more. | ||||||||
10 |
★★ At dawn, we ride
A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays. The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.
Some images here- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long & Philip C, 3 Oct 2019 | 6 | 190m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★ Tvål
PA: Patrick Fransson & Odd-Roar Wilk | 5+ | 4 | |||||
MerradalenThe scrappy wall on the left. The lines here have seen few repeats | ||||||||
13 |
★ Kneeling Jesus
PA: Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm & Nils.J Vagner, 2003 | 6+ | 95m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★ Kom igjen for Helvete
PA: Jonas Tetlie & Kurt Kristiansen, 2000 | 6+ | 8 | |||||
Monster WallThe steep wall above the monster boulder currently hosts one route. To approach, hike up the creek (hard to see start of trail - listen for the water). When the creek gets to the power lines contour the small moraine to the right leads directly up to the base of lower wall. From the lower wall hike directly up through wide open small trees and a steep mossy ramp up to the wall. P1 of La Vida Joika is the obvious left facing corner above the small roof. | ||||||||
16 |
★★★ La Vida Joika
La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall. The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection. 2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.
Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels. NB- Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top. PA: Charlie Long & Rune Harjo Jensen, 2019 | 7+/8- | 100m, 3, 10 |
1.4.2.1. Lyngvær Boulders
- Summary:
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78 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.219291, 14.220857
descripción
Boulders with ocean views on both sides of the E10. Contains several classic Lofoten problems.
1.4.2.1.1. La Perla
- Summary:
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12 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.229222, 14.228336
descripción
A large shaded boulder in the trees 5 mins walk from the E10. There´s several fun problems
Acceso
There´s 2 pullouts which can be used to park & approach the boulder. Largest one is 3.9km from the Rørvika/E10 turnoff.
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1.4.2.1.2. Monster
- Summary:
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16 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.219022, 14.216779
descripción
Roadside Boulder with the benchmark 8a in Lofoten
Acceso
The boulder is just past Stem Bastensen boulders or 2.2km from the Rørvika/E10 turnoff.
Park sensibly (68.221618, 14.216651)
1.4.2.1.3. Stem Bastensen
- Summary:
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50 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.214574, 14.220011
Resumen
Popular roadside crag with perhaps the most concentrated grouping of hard boulder problems in Lofoten
restricciones
.
Acceso
There is a pullout 1.6km past the Rørvika/E10 turnoff
(68.213380, 14.218064)
1.4.3. Rørvika
- Summary:
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24 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.203068, 14.259737
restricciones
There is a small pull put for 1/2 cars on the E10 just below the start of the ridge (68.207521, 14.221532). If full, park sensibly at Rørvika and walk.
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1.4.3.1. The Ice
- Summary:
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2 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.201114, 14.266260
Resumen
Late December to February waterfalls and pillars occasionally form on north facing aspects above the 816 & E10.
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Ukjent 1
The waterfall line that forms on the cliffs above the 816 midway between Rørvika beach carpark and the Rørvika point pullout. P1) The initial pillar leads to a lower angle slope with a tree belay P2) Traverse left to the next pillar. Belay/rapp from trees | WI4 | 80m, 2 | |||||
2 |
Rørvikvannet Ice
Depending on conditions, various ice/mixed lines in the WI1-WI4 range form above Rørvikvannet. Access by parking at Glomtind veien, walking across the lake. GPX file and some photos here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4640944797 |
1.4.3.2. The Rock and Roll Ridge
- Summary:
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2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.207556, 14.227517
Acceso
From Rørvika walk along the E10 until the headland. A cairned trail leads to the start of rock n roll ridge and the upper wall.
Historia
Speed record for this one drops with every NNK half year course. Currently around the 10 minute mark
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 | ★★ The Rock and Roll Ridge | 3 | ||||
2 |
Nordfjellet Traverse
It´s possible to continue from rock and roll ridge up to Nordfjellet. Routefinding & loose rock are the real crux so a short rope plus gear to rig rappels is advisable. From the summit, continue down the ridge towards the glomtinden hiking trail. | 4+ |
1.4.3.3. Upper Wall
- Summary:
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11 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.207629, 14.229493
Acceso
Access via the first half of rock and roll ridge (easy scrambling)
Descenso
From the summit, continue along the ridge (East). From the saddle, an obvious path leads down the grassy gully towards Rørvika
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Losing my religion | 5 | ||||
2 | Happy Campers | 6- | ||||
3 | Moody Blue | 6- | ||||
4 | ★ Queen of Rock 'n' Roll | 5 | ||||
5 | King of Rock 'n' Roll | 7- | ||||
6 | ★★★ Tom Jones | 6- | ||||
7 | ★★★ Automatic for the People | {FR} 6a | 45m, 11 | |||
8 | BB King was Wrong (the Thrill isn't Gone) | 6 | ||||
9 | Fugledansen | 6 | ||||
10 | Venus Passagen | 5+ | ||||
11 |
`Ny 2021 ruta´
Starts just right of the established lines. | 5+ |
1.4.3.4. Lower Wall
- Summary:
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9 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.207110, 14.231871
Acceso
From the E10, scramble directly up to the left of the boulder field.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Left sideThe crack systems here differ from classic Lofoten rock. Expect engaging and technical face climbing on good quality rock. Rappel 40m via double bolt anchor. Note: It is not possible to scramble to the upper wall. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Jerry Lee
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1994 | 5+ | 35m | |||||
3 |
★★ Sticky Fingers
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1993 | 7- | 40m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Elvis
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Jimmy Halvardsson, 1996 | 7 | 40m | |||||
Right sideA nice introduction to Lofoten jamming at entry level grades. Scramble along the base from the routes on the left to access these lines. Descent notes: Option 1: Pick a suitable tree near BOB and rappel to the base of the cliff (30m). From here traverse across to the lower wall left then down the boulder field towards the E10 Option 2: From the top of the routes scramble up another 15/20m before heading East & down towards the grassy slopes. | ||||||||
6 |
Hellstinky state of mind
This finger crack in the LF corner is attractive but somewhat difficult PA: Philip C & Kjetil H. Andersen, Oct 2019 | 6 | 25m | |||||
7 |
★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg!
Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 2 Oct 2019 | 6- | 35m | |||||
8 |
★ Jeg håper Scottys hus brenner ned
From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit. PA: Vegard With Stennes & Philip C, 2 Oct 2019 | 5 | 35m | |||||
9 |
Røyskatten
Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen. PA: Kjetil Andersen & Philip C, 7 Oct 2019 | 5 | 30m | |||||
10 |
★ Høstdrømmen
The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit. PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 2 Oct 2019 | 5+ | 30m | |||||
11 |
BOB
The low angled left trending finger crack. When the initial crack ends trend right then straight up to a tree belay PA: Philip C & Kjetil Andersen, 7 Oct 2019 | 4 | 30m |
1.4.4. Pianokrakken
- Summary:
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90 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.193485, 14.220967
restricciones
Henningsværveien is prime stalking grounds for the Vågan parkeringsinspektør. In the summer, they feast on hire cars. Parking within marked lines & away from no stopping signs (posted `M´) should keep you off the menu.
A few options for parking at this crag. Please park sensibly in one of these pullouts-
(68.187428, 14.224556), (68.189266, 14.218913) & (68.185784, 14.226230)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Surrounding areaThere are two classic routes and a handful of mediocre lines above the section of 816 between Pianokrakken and Rørvika. The walls surrounding the main cliff (Svenskeveggen & Maurpillaren) host a bunch of short but great lines. Perfect cragging for mixed weather days | ||||||||
West WallThe main wall has some nice climbing through the grades. Gets afternoon sun | ||||||||
7 |
★★★ Huggormen
Great movement on great rock. Well protected. Deserves more stars/repeats. A few hard moves through the initial overhang (easier if taller) leads into some layback & smearing through the zig zag crack (7-). From here, it´s easier jamming to the top (6). Bolted lower-off replaced the sketchy shrub rapp July 2021. New rapp station was also installed above. It´s easy to setup a top rope. PA: Petter Restorp & Hanna Melin | 8- | 30m | |||||
8 |
Sigve projekt
A closed project | 8+/9- | ||||||
9 |
★★★ Tapir
Clean dog-leg crack on the left side of the cliff. Convenient lower-off. View this post on Instagram PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Anders Bergwall, 1991 | 7- | 20m, 1 | |||||
10 |
★ Fremdeles Tapir
PA: Jonas Dalstrup & Otto Romfro, 2009 | 5 | 2 | |||||
11 |
★★ Nøttebus
PA: krister jonsson & Hanna Falkestrøm, 1996 | 6+ | 3 | |||||
12 |
★ Svaclownen
PA: Fredrik Rapp & Martin Jakonsson | 6 | 2 | |||||
13 |
★ Dagens rett
PA: Ed Webster & Arild Meyer, 1994 | 6- | 70m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds drøm
PA: Sjur Nesheim & Kjell Ove Storvik, 1979 | 5+ | 80m, 3 | |||||
15 |
★ Pianogolvet
PA: Fredrik Rapp & Bobo Gustavsson, 2009 | 6 | ||||||
16 |
★ Sterk, Naken og Biltyvene
PA: Bjarte Bø & Ane Grete Nebell, 1997 | 7 | ||||||
17 |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
Popular because of the Top50 tag in the guidebook, this is a winding, disjointed line that makes communicating with your partner difficult. Will possibly feel like a hard 4+ if your not used to jamming. Ant Line on Maurpillaren, Gollum on Gandalf wall or many of the routes at Paradiset or Rørvika Lower Wall Right make for more enjoyable introductions to Lofoten climbing. PA: Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog & Ulf Prytz, 1971 | 4+ | 110m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★ Pianisten
PA: Kjell Skog, 1979 | 6 | 110m, 4 | |||||
South WallA selection of short & mostly overrated climbs with an easy approach and morning sun. | ||||||||
20 |
★ Kangshungrisset / Kangshung Crack
PA: Ed Webster & Knut Fausa Storvik, 1994 | 6+ | 60m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★ Sorte Orm / Black Adder
PA: Mathias Andersen & Eirik Andersen, 1992 PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1992 | 6 | 60m, 2 | |||||
22 |
★★ Appelcake Arete
Start 1-2 meters left of the arete in the black/grey rock. Good protection. First belay on a small ledge beside the big roof over Lys og skygge's first pitch. PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1991 | 5+ | 60m, 2 | |||||
23 |
★★ Lys og Skygge / Light and Shade
PA: Ed Webster & Trond Solberg, 1991 | 5+ | 60m, 2 | |||||
24 |
★★ Ananasekspress
The most popular way to repeat these ´Top 50´ lines cherry picks the best protected and nicest climbing.
PA: Unknown | 5+ | 60m, 2 | |||||
25 |
★★ Soria Moria
PAL: Linus Kullstad PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Niels Poulsen, 1993 | 7+ | 65m, 2 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Castle Dracula
PA: David Pickford & Malin Holmberg, 2011 | 8- | 65m, 2 | |||||
27 |
★ Nye tider / New Times
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik | AID:A3 | ||||||
28 |
★ Kongens hjørne / The king`s Arete
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 1991 | 6 | ||||||
29 |
Slemgutt risset / Bad Boy`s Crack
PA: Kjell Ove Storvik & Kjell Skog, 1976 | 5+ | ||||||
30 |
★ Dream of White Whales
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992 | 6- | 28m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
31 |
★★★ Djupfjord sprickan / Djupfjord Crack
Tight hands to offwidth crack. Fun jamming test piece that´s easy for the small hand crowd (7-) & tough work for large hands (7) Bolted anchor as of July 2019 PA: Simon Thyr, 2000 | 7-/7 | 20m | |||||
32 |
★ Jørn Roger
PA: Andreas Christiansen & Jonas Tetlie, 1997 | AID:A2 | ||||||
The boulders |
1.4.4.1. Sørfjellet
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.198878, 14.222930
Acceso
For Minnerisset, there is a small pullout for a single car infront of the crag.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Minnerisset Couloir
Descend via Djupfjord PA: Arild Meyer | WI3 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ Minnerisset
This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten. It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019. If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1". As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line. Some images here: View this post on Instagram PA: Robert Caspersen, 2002 | 9- | 28m | |||||
3 |
★ Tyngre enn du tror
PA: Leif Gunnar Bradal & Øyvind Haug, 2007 | 6 | 4 | |||||
4 |
★ Ladies Jigsaw
PA: Pauline Bird & Donna Thompson, 2000 | 4+ | 140m, 5 | |||||
5 |
★ Sauegjerderyggen
PA: Ulf Prytz & Arild Meyer | 5- | ||||||
6 |
★ Luke Skywalker
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 PA: Johan Sandberg & Truls Seines, 1993 | 5+ | 65m, 2 |
1.4.4.2. Housewives
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.192404, 14.218974
Acceso
There is a small pulllout directly below the wall (68.192483, 14.216605).
Boulder hop from the road. The guidebook way works but it´s easier following the thin strip of vegetation up & then traversing across across the boulder field. There´s a climbers trail from the trees up & right to the base of the routes.
Descenso
As of summer 2019, there is a bolted anchor at the top of Housewives. A single 60m will get you to the ground
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Loose Crusin
PA: Carl Granlund & Morgan Sahlen, Ag 2015 | 8- | 2 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Housewives
Criminally under climbed, this is one of the best road side finger cracks in the North. PA: Fredrik Rapp & Martin Jakobsson, 2011 PA: Carl Granlund, Mayo 2016 | 7- | 30m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★ Home boy
PA: Martin Jakobsson & Fredrik Rapp, 2011 | 6+ |
1.4.4.3. Maurpillaren
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.191844, 14.219920
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Pedersenryggen
The Maurpillaren to Sjørfjellet ridge. Mostly easy alpine style scrambling with some exposed sections. There´s 2 rapps, both 30m & both from fixed nuts & slings. It´s possibe to continue traversing all the way to Nordryggen (up to N6-, 2 x 60m ropes needed). View this post on Instagram PA: Tom Pedersen | 4 | ||||||
2 |
Kjærlighetens kjøtere
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1996 | 6 | 95m | |||||
3 |
★★ Ingen sommerferie
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995 | 6+ | 72m, 4 | |||||
4 | ★ Hankatten | 6 | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Pizzatyven
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993 PAL: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1995 | 6 | 100m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★ Pizzatyven direct
An old guidebook mistake has seen more traffic on this route than it deserves. Bold. PA: Colin Binks & Chris Craggs, 2008 | 7- | ||||||
7 |
★ Ant Line
PA: Kjell Ove Storvik & Niels Poulsen, 1988 | 5+ | 85m, 3 | |||||
8 |
★★ Ant pillar extension
Some images here: View this post on Instagram PA: NNKS | 5+ | 90m, 2 | |||||
9 |
★★ Mjölkmustasch
PA: Fredrik Rapp & Ola Modeer, 2007 | 6+ | ||||||
10 |
★★ Dirty 30
Starts 20m up from the Pizatyven descent. Up the open corner, then straight through the 45 deg roof. PAL: Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Ag 2017 | 8- | 25m |
1.4.4.4. Svenskeveggen
- Summary:
-
14 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.188207, 14.221296
descripción
The small crag on the opposite side of the road to Pianokrakken.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Ångermanland
Big cam handy PA: Rick McGregor, 2015 | 5 | ||||||
2 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 6 | 14m | |||||
3 | ★ Du gamla du fria | 7 | 14m | |||||
4 | ★ Madelene | 7- | 14m | |||||
5 |
Blåhval superstar
Put by a Bohuslän climber. Bold. PA: Petter Restorp, 1990 | 7 | 14m | |||||
6 |
★ Blåklokka
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1989 | 6- | 14m | |||||
7 |
★★ Jammerfest
The roof crack. Big cam needed. PA: Jimmy Halvardsson, 1990 | 6+ | ||||||
8 |
★ Steepstone
PA: Jimmy Halvardsson, 1990 | FR:6b+ | ||||||
9 |
Ukjent 1
Start up Arbetsskygg then continue direct past 2 bolts to a DBB. Still a project? | 14m, 2 | ||||||
10 |
★ Arbetsskygg
Fun climbing with some hard and delicate moves. Tougher and more poorly protected than Snickar glädje PA: Petter Restorp, 1990 | 7 | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Snickar glädje
Hard start and scene of a couple of broken ankles. Consider bringing a boulder pad/ clipping a pre-placed 1st piece PA: Some Swedes, 1990 | 7 | 15m | |||||
12 |
★ Reisefeber
A short, hard & frustrating crux between horizontal cracks punts off most takers PA: Petter Restorp, 1990 | FR:7b+ | 14m | |||||
13 |
★ I rampelyset
PA: Robert Caspersen, 1990 | FR:7b+ | 14m | |||||
14 |
★ I rampelyset direkte
PA: Knut Storvik, 1990 | 8 | 14m |
1.4.4.5. Oceanside minnerisset
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.197698, 14.217137
1.4.4.5.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.197710, 14.217036
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1.4.4.5.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.197791, 14.217261
1.4.4.6. Donkey Kong
- Summary:
-
16 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.195603, 14.217061
1.4.4.6.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196495, 14.216465
1.4.4.6.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196396, 14.217112
1.4.4.6.3. Boulder C
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196115, 14.216152
1.4.4.6.4. Boulder D
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.195935, 14.216200
1.4.4.6.5. Boulder E
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.195674, 14.216369
1.4.4.6.6. Boulder F
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.195714, 14.217010
1.4.4.6.7. Boulder G
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.194723, 14.218063
1.4.4.7. Commodore
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.193780, 14.215805
1.4.4.7.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.193084, 14.216426
1.4.4.7.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.193915, 14.215330
1.4.4.7.3. Boulder C
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.194139, 14.215434
1.4.4.7.4. Boulder D
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.194103, 14.215626
1.4.5. Djupfjord
- Summary:
-
71 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.193016, 14.256495
restricciones
Henningsværveien is prime stalking grounds for the Vågan parkeringsinspektør. In the summer, they feast on hire cars. Parking within marked lines should keep you off the menu.
Acceso
For Vågakallen, Bare blåbær or Pillaren Point approach via Djupfjordens NW shore. It´s a well cairned trail. On low tide, it´s faster following the shoreline to the moraine.
Djupfjord wall/buttress, Two Faces Buttress & Sjøsvaet are accessed from the pullout on the other side of the fjord.
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1.4.5.1. The ice
1.4.5.2. The boulders
- Summary:
-
26 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.192801, 14.237952
1.4.5.2.1. Lofoten Tourist
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.191044, 14.230858
1.4.5.2.2. Big boulders sector
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.192040, 14.233310
1.4.5.2.3. Rock Shapes
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.193971, 14.241476
1.4.5.3. Coley Smoke
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.193885, 14.264071
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ There is to Do | 6- | 50m | |||
2 | ★ Job to Do | 5+ | 50m | |||
3 |
★★★ Coley Smoke
PA: Nick Ashton, Glenn Henry & David Musgrove, 1998 | 5 | 120m, 4 | |||
4 |
Children playing
PA: Jonas Dahlstrup, 2012 | 5 | 2 | |||
5 |
★★★ Child's play
3 unique pitches, the last (4) is part of the Coley smoke. PA: Michael Hayes & Graham Weston | 5+ | 130m, 4 | |||
6 |
★★ Very Expensive Ticket
| 7 | 220m, 6 | |||
7 |
Rännesnärja
PA: Fredrik Rapp, 2007 | 5- | 5 |
1.4.5.4. Bare blåbær
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.193727, 14.261526
Acceso
From fjord/djupfjorvatnet moraine, stay right of the pine trees & crossing the stream. Not far after crossing, the path forks. Left leads up to the Bare blåbær slab, right is the Vågakallen hiking trail.
The trail is very easy to follow, with cairns for the short sections of boulder hopping.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Whale Meet Again
PA: Nick Ashton, Glenn Henry & David Musgrove, 1998 | 7- | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Bare blåveis
PA: Rolf Bae, Robert Casperson, Jonas Dahlstrup & Eiliv Ruud, 2008 | 6+ | 200m, 5 | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★★ Bare Blåbær
P1/P2 can easily be linked & helps speed things up on busy summer days. It´s also common to climb right at P5 to the abseil line, as the final pitches are not of the same quality & it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flake above PA: Tim Hansen & Ingun Raastad, 1986 | 5- | 250m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Filling in the Blanks
PA: Jonas Dahlstrup & Simon Svendsen, 2009 | 6- | 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Thiras Mirith
PA: Odd-Roar Wilk, Jørgen Sundby & Borghild Hansen, 1993 PA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Per Kylner & Jenny Gustavsson, 1993 | 6 | 170m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★ Triumfbuen
PA: Leif Magnussen, Jørgen Aamont, Stein Moller & Lena Dahl, 2008 | 6 | 270m, 7 |
1.4.5.5. Pillaren (Point 713m)
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.192264, 14.263068
Acceso
If you havn´t done the approach before, the easiest option is traversing across from base of Bare blåbær using the faint climbers trail.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The descent
Both of the guidebook options are not advisable. Instead, head in the direction of Vågakallen via a faint trial from the summit block (pictured), when this ends, a short move to regain the ridge is needed (pictured). Ignore the first rapp station you pass. Continue along the ridge then scramble back down (pictured). From here, traverse across the hanging valley (South-East, ~50m) to the base of a short & steep gully. Go up here. This leads to a wide open area. Don't be tempted to descend any gullies. Head straight up the first large grassy gully towards the ridge line (North). Continue along this ridge for another 150/200m (towards Vågakallen) where the ridge from Pillaren ends & the rapp station is located (pictured). Slings, 10m. You can nearly taste the beers at Klatre now. Continue in the direction of Vågakallen via a short ascent back up the opposing ridgeline. From this summit, a clear trial appears which leads down to grassy slopes & the Vågakallen hiking trail. Yay. PA: Some Jedi | 3 | ||||||
2 |
★★ The King Has Spoken / Der König Hat Gesprochen
PA: Stvefer Peter & Schrott Hannes, 2011 | 7- | 600m, 14 | |||||
3 | Håkon's Restless Crack | 4+ | ||||||
4 |
★★ Celebrian
Gear beta: Standard Lofoten rack plus a #4
Images here: View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Niels Poulsen, 1990 | 6- | 530m, 11 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Goodbye High School
PA: Jiri Svihalek & Lukas Marecek, 2009 | 6+ | 14 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Høstgull
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Arild Meyer, 1995 | 7- | 12 | |||||
7 |
★★ Elgfesten
PA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Niels Poulsen, 1992 | 6 | 7 | |||||
8 | Danske ruta | 6+ | ||||||
9 |
★★ Bare Bacalao
PA: Charlie Long & Thomas Sloss, 2014 | 7+ | 210m, 6 | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Outlying | ||||||||
11 |
Fjellvåken
Located opposite side of the fjord (North). PA: Rune Harjo Jensen & Stian Bruvoll, 2017 | 7- | 260m, 6 |
1.4.5.6. Budalstinden
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.186755, 14.245324
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Sydryggen
A rarely visited summit with panoramic views. It´s a fun scramble and a nice rest day option during high season. Approach via the Festvåg hiking track, taking an obvious NE trail just below the Festvåg summit block down to Festvågtinden/Budalstinden col (68.1802736, 14.2318267). From here, a faint trail leads up then roughly follows the ridge over to the summit block. Allow 2-3hrs return. It´s also possible to continue East along the ridge to Kvandalstinden. Ropes recommended for one short section of slab (around N4 but awkward to reverse). Descend by reversing the route. | 2 | ||||
2 |
★★ Budalspillaren
Reputation for some nice, but heavily sandbagged climbing (N8-) 2 x 60m ropes needed for the rapp. PA: Robert Caspersen & Frøydis Ravlo, 2002 | 6+ | 140m, 6 | |||
3 |
★ Skvis
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Jan Helge, 2002 | 6+ | 140m, 5 | |||
4 |
★ Kjære frøken Johansson
PA: Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1995 | 6+ | 4 | |||
5 |
★★ Bibel hjørnet
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1995 | 5+ | 85m, 2 |
1.4.5.7. Djupfjord wall
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.188510, 14.237516
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Lady of the lake
PA: Malin Holmberg, 2011 | 9- PROT:R | 250m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Norwegian Wood
PA: Malin Holmberg & David Pickford, 2011 | 7 | 240m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Dorisraffset
PA: Fredrick Rapp | 8- | 2 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Rataxes
PA: Fredrick Rapp | 7+ | ||||||
5 |
★★ Henry-Expressen
PA: Fredrick Rapp | 7- | 3 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Trapezium Wall
PA: Malin Holmberg & David Pickford, 2011 | 8+ | 85m, 2 |
1.4.5.8. Djupfjord Buttress
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.188311, 14.235424
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Fish Restaurant
PA: Jiří Švihálek & Lukáš Marecek, 2009 | 5+ | 9 | |||
2 | ★ The best of nothing | 5 AID:A1 | ||||
3 |
★★★ Djupfjord Buttress
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1995 | 5+ | 7 |
1.4.5.9. Two Faces Buttress
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.187497, 14.234209
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mandragora | 6 | 80m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ Dr. Jekyll
Mixed slab climbing. Rumour has know one really knows who´s Dr jekyll & who´s Mr Hyde.. PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999 | 6 | 55m | |||||
3 |
★★ Mr Hyde
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1999 | 6+ | 70m, 2 |
1.4.5.10. Sjøsvaet
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.184759, 14.232008
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Ørnens brødre
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Old bolts A committing mixed line on the left slab. PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Arild Meyer, 1998 | 7 PROT:R | 200m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Solens sønner
A mixed route characterised by safe but runout slab climbing View this post on Instagram PA: Ed Webster & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993 | 6 | 150m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Månens døtre
PA: Ed Webster & Johan Sandberg, 1993 | 6 | 140m, 4, 5 | |||||
4 |
★ Skåningen
PA: Johan Sandberg & Bo Andersson, 1993 | 5+ | 75m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Lay-bye Layback
Short route with crux just off the ground. Bring small wires/cams PA: Colin Binks, 2008 | 7 | 15m |
1.4.6. Presten
- Summary:
-
141 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.179935, 14.215355
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1.4.6.1. Corridor boulders
- Summary:
-
14 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.180520, 14.213451
descripción
A collection of quiet, sheltered boulders between Presten and Djupfjord
1.4.6.1.1. Seal Deal
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.183890, 14.219577
1.4.6.1.2. Beach block
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.181569, 14.214172
1.4.6.1.3. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.179462, 14.212630
1.4.6.1.4. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.179526, 14.212438
1.4.6.1.5. Boulder C
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.179469, 14.212354
1.4.6.1.6. Boulder D
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.179628, 14.212296
1.4.6.1.7. Boulder E
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.178888, 14.211666
1.4.6.2. Presten boulders
- Summary:
-
98 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.177497, 14.209694
descripción
This is Lofoten´s most popular bouldering spot. All day sun, quick to dry, mostly good landings plus a wide variety of problems through the grades.
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1.4.6.2.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177920, 14.208363
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1.4.6.2.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177822, 14.208762
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1.4.6.2.3. Boulder C
- Summary:
-
9 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177725, 14.208763
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1.4.6.2.4. Boulder D
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177665, 14.209088
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1.4.6.2.5. Boulder E
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177591, 14.209507
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1.4.6.2.6. Boulder F
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177662, 14.209860
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1.4.6.2.7. Boulder G
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177809, 14.209766
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1.4.6.2.8. Boulder H
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.178142, 14.208931
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1.4.6.2.9. Boulder I
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.178142, 14.208526
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1.4.6.2.10. Boulder J
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.178120, 14.208210
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1.4.6.2.11. Boulder K
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.178024, 14.208217
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1.4.6.2.12. Boulder L
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177804, 14.208270
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1.4.6.2.13. Boulder M
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.178115, 14.210469
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1.4.6.2.14. Boulder N
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177382, 14.208647
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1.4.6.2.15. Boulder O
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177287, 14.209685
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1.4.6.2.16. Boulder P
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177230, 14.209719
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1.4.6.2.17. Boulder Q
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177186, 14.209813
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1.4.6.2.18. Boulder R
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177199, 14.209610
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1.4.6.2.19. Boulder S
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.177269, 14.209875
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1.4.6.2.20. Boulder T
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.176737, 14.210475
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1.4.6.2.21. Boulder U
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.176369, 14.210700
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1.4.6.3. Lille Presten
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.182662, 14.221977
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Muldvarpen
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1995 | 6- AID:A1 | 100m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★ Tarzan
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Johan Sandberg, 1995 | 6- | 100m, 2 |
1.4.6.4. Presten
- Summary:
-
20 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.181132, 14.220695
Acceso
It´s a small pullout that´s often full in high season. The descent will leave you at the Festvåg carpark so either get dropped off/hitch hike to the base or hitch hike back to your car from the descent trail.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The descent
Follow path (East) with some exposed scrambling off back of Presten, and down to saddle (68.1800305, 14.2286126). Continue straight up the other side of the saddle, following the ridegline roughly South before joining main hiking track near Festvåg summit (allow 1-2 hours). | |||||||
2 | Himmel og Helvete | 7 | ||||||
3 | To krigere | 7 AID:A3 | ||||||
4 |
★★★ Korstoget
Some excellent crack, slab and face climbing. The physical crux is bolted (and can easily be French freed). Images here: View this post on Instagram PA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1992 | 7 PROT:R | 390m, 11, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Ypperstepresten
This route can easily be done in 3 pitches to storhylla by stretching the first belay to a stance close to the roof (55m) and pitch 2 until one of the good ledges above the roof (45/50m). This avoids rope drag and bad communication for the roof pitch (P2). Protection is good (heart in the book dates back to before micro cams/totems) PA: Bengt Flygel Nilsfors & Aart Verhage, 1992 | 6 | 220m, 5 | |||||
6 | Biskopen | 6- AID:A0 | ||||||
7 | Søndagskole turen | 7 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ The Codfather
Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Mark Garthwaite & Mick Fowler, 1999 | 7 PROT:R | 500m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Reisen
PA: Tom Cosgriff & Sjur Nesheim, 1993 | 7+ | 440m, 11 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Klokkeren
Excellent climbing from Storhylla up the corner system left of Vestpillaren (rejoins at the slanting corner stance). PA: Tommy Nilsson, 1984 | 7- | 150m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Variasjon til en variasjon
Take the crack to the left from the pitch 2 Vestpillaren anchor. It´s nice, well protected climbing that´s handy for passing slower parties. PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Niels Poulsen, 1992 | 6+ | 45m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Joika Ekspressen
A direct route straight up the middle of Presten linking together some excellent pitches from 4 classic routes. Scenic & well protected, it´s a particularly great outing for busy days on the Priest.
PA: Rune Harjo Jensen & Philip C, 2019 | 7 | 400m, 11 | |||||
13 | Vestpillaren Variation Start | 6- | 50m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.
PA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1980 | 6 | 480m, 12 | |||||
15 |
★★ Vestpillaren original starten
The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay PA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978 | 5+ | 140m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning
The original finish goes left from the slanting corner ledge.
PA: Arild Meyer & Brynjar Tollefsen, 1978 | 7 | 160m, 4 | |||||
17 |
Thunder in Paradise
A variation to the start of Vestpillaren taking thin grooves in the blunt arete to the left. PA: Martin Fransson, Frej Wichmann & Oskar Alexandersson, 2014 | 8- | 120m, 3 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Himmelen kan vente | 6+ | 310m, 9 | |||||
19 | The Altar Boys | AID:A3 | ||||||
20 |
Holy Diver
Best attempted after a dry spell. Reports suggest the black streaked slabs after the 7+ climbing are not so nice when the wall is wet. Some images here- View this post on Instagram | 7+ | 380m, 10 |
1.4.6.5. Stålormsrisset
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.177015, 14.213716
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bendelormen
The OW on the side of the boulder. Out the overhang then up the crack. Big cams necessary. The end is super easy, so perhaps best to belay your partner up from the start of the ramp to avoid heinous rope drag. Descend by continuing to the top & then walking off right. PA: Jonas Jakobsen, 2011 | 7+ | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Stålormsrisset / Harry Potter Crack
Steep fingers & hands up the flake into a mantle and slab finish. Protection is fine despite the heart rating in the guidebook. Bolted loweroff as of 2019 (possible to setup a TR) PA: Magnus Eriksson & Frej Wichman, 2008 | 8 |
1.4.6.6. Harley Davidson Wall
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.176442, 14.213348
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Massor av kubik | 6 | ||||
2 | Spinning Wheel | 7 | ||||
3 | Easy Rider and the Fat Boy | 6 | ||||
4 | Full fart | 7 | ||||
5 | Sportster | 7 |
1.4.7. Gandalf
- Summary:
-
59 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.175859, 14.212959
Acceso
Main carpark (68.171092, 14.214752).
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1.4.7.1. Gandalf boulders
- Summary:
-
19 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.172875, 14.213036
descripción
A popular afternoon bouldering spot problems with the Gandalf camping crowd.
1.4.7.1.1. Boulder A
- Summary:
-
15 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.172493, 14.208477
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1.4.7.1.2. Boulder B
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.173686, 14.213640
1.4.7.1.3. Boulder C
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.172846, 14.214731
1.4.7.1.4. Boulder D
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.172718, 14.217436
1.4.7.2. Live Aid
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.174880, 14.212744
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fremmed på veien | 7 | 60m, 2 | |||
2 | Kaptein Sabeltann | AID:A2 | ||||
3 | Live Aid | AID:A3 | 85m, 3 | |||
4 | For Cod's Sake | 7 | 75m, 3 | |||
5 | Hot Fisk, Jumping Weasel | 8- | 85m, 2 |
1.4.7.3. Gandalf Main
- Summary:
-
25 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.174361, 14.213568
descripción
All day sun, easy access, good rock & several entry level routes make this the most popular crag near Henningsvær. It´s the first one in/last one out of condition each season and can stay climbable January through November.
In the summer, expect to line up for the guidebook classics.
Descenso
A pleasant walk off (West).
There is also an abseil line which was rebolted April 2020. 2 rapps (42 & 34m). It´s not unusual for the ropes to get snagged.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Edderkoppen | 7- | 50m, 2 | |||
2 | ★ Tynne ting | 6 | 35m | |||
3 | Nøttolfs fristelse | 6+ | 45m, 2 | |||
4 | Nøtteliten | 6+ | 95m, 3 | |||
5 | ★★ Førstereisgutten | 7 | 95m, 3 | |||
6 |
★★★ Gamle rev
PA: Ed Webster & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 | 6 | 110m, 2 | |||
7 |
Revungen
PA: Asgeir Larsen & Thorbjørn Enevold, 2007 | 7 | 110m, 3 | |||
8 |
★★★ Tromsø ekspressen
PA: Håvard Nesheim & Sjur Nesheim, 1979 | 6 | 95m, 3 | |||
9 | Lost Gandalf | 5- | 110m, 3 | |||
10 |
★★ Lost Expressen
First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches. | 5+ | 95m, 3 | |||
11 |
★ Smeagul
In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack. PA: Jonas Dahlstrup & Simon Svendsen, 2008 | 5+ | 110m, 3 | |||
12 |
★★★ Gollum
Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot. In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block. PA: Arild Meyer & Sjur Nesheim, 1985 | 5 | 110m, 3 | |||
13 |
★ Gandalf's kamin
As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin) | 5 | 110m, 3 | |||
14 |
★★★ Gandalf
A classic & the first route to dry on the wall PA: Arild Meyer, 1978 | 5 | 100m, 3 | |||
15 |
★★★ Gandalf original avslutning
The original finish to Gandalf goes left of eagles nest (the P2 belay) up the burly crack. Big cam nice. | 6+ | 25m | |||
16 |
★★★ Guns n' Roses
One of the best lines here. Pitch 1 goes just right of Gandalf & up the corner with a tree before trending right & up the arete to a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 heads right & then up the short & steep hand crack (crux) to a ledge. The final pitch takes gradually easing finger cracks through the orange rock to the summit. Pitch 3 image- View this post on Instagram PA: Thorbørn Enevold & Trul Seines, 1993 | 6- | 90m, 3 | |||
17 |
★★★ Gun's and Gandalf
A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack
| 5 | 100m, 3 | |||
18 |
★★★ Gandalf and Rose
A straight line using 2 classic routes. Start this combination climbing the 1st pitch on Gandalf. Thereafter, climb the 2nd and 3rd pitch of Guns and Roses. | 6 | 100m, 3 | |||
19 | Krympefesten | 6+ | 100m, 3 | |||
20 | Rolling Stone | 6 | 95m, 3 | |||
21 | Vår pump | 7- | 85m, 2 | |||
22 | Three Lions on the Shirt | 7- | 85m, 2 | |||
23 | The Caveman | 8- | 85m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★★ Rasmus ekspressen | 8- | 70m, 2 | |||
25 | Souhalia Andrawes | 6 AID:A3 | 80m, 4 |
1.4.7.4. Gandalf Upper
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.174787, 14.213904
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blondie | 6- | 15m | |||
2 | Grus i øgat | 6 | 15m |
1.4.7.5. Silmarillion Wall
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.174330, 14.216340
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Silmarillion | 7 | 170m, 6 | |||
2 | Grisfesten | 8+ | 200m, 5 | |||
3 | Daei! | 8+ | 170m, 5 | |||
4 | The Pels of the Fisk | 8 |
1.4.7.6. The Hobbit
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brysselsteget | 7+ | ||||
2 | The Hobbit | 6- | ||||
3 | Tre grisor smô | 7+ | ||||
4 | Paddys | 6- |
1.4.8. Festvåg
- Summary:
-
46 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.176156, 14.220363
Acceso
Main carpark (68.171092, 14.214752)
Walk East 250m from the parking lot & follow the instagram crowd. Stay left on the trail for access to the Store and Lille Festvåg crags
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
OutlyingThere´s a couple of small buttresses on the section of rock between Gandalf and Lille Festvåg with a handful of rarely climbed lines. | ||||||||
4 | Mackøl og måsegg | 5+ | ||||||
5 | Gammelosten | 5+ | ||||||
6 | Smulpaj | 6+ | ||||||
The IceThe West face of the Festvågtinden massif hosts several established winter climbing options up couloirs & corner systems. | ||||||||
8 |
Sør-Gully
This line ascends the couloir between stor and lille Festvåg and up to a false summit of Festvågtind (which is not visible from the road). Easy descent via gully of store Festvåg. PA: Arild Meyer | WI3 M2 | 500m | |||||
9 |
★★ Venstre side
This line, likely an old Arild Meyer route, ascends the West couloir. The approach involves 150m of snow and low angled ice. Descend by exiting up the ramp to the left. Once the ridge is gained traverse East (some exposed sections) to reach the Festvågtind summit. Take short screws & single rack of cams. PA: Arild Meyer | WI3 | 500m, 4 | |||||
10 |
★★ Running from Wuhan
Alternative finish to Venstre side. Begins below the striking steep corner (which is visible from the road). The first pitch traverses right then up to 2 fixed pitons. Move out right from the the fixed belay & up to the base of the frozen waterfall. From here, ascend the frozen waterfall (2 pitches). Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Stian Bruvoll, 30 Mar 2020 | WI4+ M5 PROT:R | 100m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★ Boomer doomer
Pitch 2 alternative to Running from Wuhan. From the fixed belay, make a delicate traverse left around the arete where harder climbing with extremely poor protection leads to the base of the hanging waterfall. This route is likely best attempted when the frozen waterfall reaches as close as possible to the couloir. PA: Stian Bruvoll (micro trax), 30 Mar 2020 | WI4+ M7 PROT:R - X | ||||||
12 |
Høyre side
The right couloir. Sections of lower angle ice (60/70 degrees) lead to a steep snow slope finish (90 degrees). PA: Arild Meyer | WI3 | ||||||
13 |
Høyre side direkte
A direct finish up the open book corner system. It would appear this line has not seen an ascent. | |||||||
|
1.4.8.1. Lille Festvåg
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.173640, 14.220244
restricciones
Descent:
From the summit follow the climbers trail towards the gully between Store/Lille Festvåg. 30m rapp from a tree with slings/tatt down into the gully. Short scramble leads to a fixed rapp station on your left (30m)
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Månedans
Usually done in 2 pitches (P1/2 linked as close to the upper dihedral as your rope will stretch) PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Ed Webster, 1993 | 6+ | 95m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★ Singer
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1993 | 7 | 95m, 3 | |||||
3 |
Myror i ballorn
PA: Rick McGregor, 2000 | 6 | 20m | |||||
4 |
Lille vikke vire
PA: krister jonsson & Johan Reuterholdy, 1998 | 7- | 95m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★ Shine a Light
PA: Andrew Norton & Klaus von Aynaten, 2004 | 6+ | 110m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Blod eller gull
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Johan Sandberg, 1992 | 6+ | 95m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★ Blod eller gull Right-hand Finish
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Trond Helge Hansen, 1997 | 7+ | 95m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★ Studenten
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 | 7 | 75m, 2 | |||||
9 |
★ Måken Sven
PA: Aina Konradsen & Stein Stenkjær, 1999 | 6+ | 70m, 2 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Gaukerisset
PA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 | 6- | 65m, 2 |
1.4.8.2. Store Festvåg
- Summary:
-
27 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.174039, 14.222649
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lower wallAt the base of the wall, a small triangle shaped section of choss hosts 4 forgettable lines (by Lofoten standards) | ||||||||
2 | Marja Myran | 6- | ||||||
3 | Kristaver | 6- | ||||||
4 | Elezeus Hylla | 5+ | ||||||
5 | Kanales Gomon | 5+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Main Wall | ||||||||
7 |
★ Skomaker Grus
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1990 | 6+ | 4 | |||||
8 |
To drone or not to drone
Steep climbing to the left of Ole Johnny tribute. PA: Sofie Eriksson & Rune Harjo Jensen, 28 Jul 2021 | 6+ AID:A0 | 3 | |||||
9 |
★★ Ole Johnny tribute
PA: Anders Rake & Joel Frans, 2010 | 7- | 80m, 4 | |||||
10 |
★ Fisherman's Friend
PA: Jonas Dahlstrop & Mattias Strömqvist | 7- | 120m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ Johan Boyer
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Morten & Trond Solberg, 1992 | 6 | 75m, 2 | |||||
12 |
★★ Vikingjenta
PA: Ed Webster & Maria Hannus, 1993 | 6+ | 75m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Running for Teo
Quality climbing linking direct crack systems up the center of the cliff. The N7 moves on P4 can be avoided at A0 (escape also possible via fishermans friend at n6-)
View this post on Instagram PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 1 Oct 2019 | 7 | 130m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★★★ Den siste viking
Pitch 2 is nice but sandbagged (may not be the original line?) PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992 | 6 | 90m, 3 | |||||
15 |
★ Running for Rasmus
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Ed Webster, 1993 | 7- | 85m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★★ Luksusdyret | 6 | 90m, 3 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Lundeklubben
PA: Arild Meyer, 1992 | 6 | 90m, 3 | |||||
18 |
★ Straight Albatross
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Lutta Fagerli, 1992 | 6 | 90m, 3 | |||||
19 |
Wandering Albatross
PA: Ed Webster & Tormod Klepper, 1993 | 6 | 95m, 3 | |||||
20 |
★ Byger
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Ketil Lunde, 1995 | 6- | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Fire forsøk
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold, Aart Verhage & Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, 1992 | 7- | 80m, 3 | |||||
22 |
★★ Four pitch route
The most popular route up the cliff. Has some nice climbing PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg | 6- | 80m, 4 | |||||
23 |
★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium
The direct OW finish to Four pitch route. PA: Odd-Roar Wilk & Johan Sandberg, 1996 | 6+ | 20m | |||||
Right side wall & surrounding routes | ||||||||
25 |
★ Riz Raz
PA: Øyvind Utby & Andreas Capjon, 2004 | 7+ | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Skiløperen
PA: Arild Meyer & Thorbjørn Enevold, 1992 | 6- | 40m | |||||
27 |
★ The Joker
PA: Nick Bassnett & Roger Brown, 2005 | 6- | ||||||
28 | ★★ May I? | 7 | 20m | |||||
29 | ★ Yes | 7 | 20m | |||||
30 | ★★ Jammen, Jammen | 6+ |
1.4.9. Nipen
- Summary:
-
36 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.170997, 14.223807
|
1.4.9.1. Urvika
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.171762, 14.221523
Resumen
These boulders are located around the the old water reservoir at the bottom of the Festvågtind hiking trail.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder A | ||||||||
2 | 9 førsøk | 6B | ||||||
3 | Toddler | 6B | ||||||
Boulder B | ||||||||
5 | Competition Problem | 6B+ | ||||||
6 | Leave the breakfast | 6C | ||||||
7 | Los Pitufos | 6A+ | ||||||
Boulder C | ||||||||
9 | Unknown #6 | 7A | ||||||
10 | Pajaro loco | 6A+ | ||||||
11 | Castrophobia | 6B | ||||||
Boulder D | ||||||||
13 | ★★ Welcome to Henni | 6C | ||||||
Boulder E | ||||||||
15 | Stephen S. Can´t do it | 6B |
1.4.9.2. Store Nipen
- Summary:
-
1 route in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.171072, 14.224379
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ukjent 1
The line following the steep crack system up the center of the cliff. Descent- It´s not possible to walk off from the summit and there is no fixed equipment. For now, you must lead down climb to get off | 7+ | 2 |
1.4.9.3. Lille Nipen
- Summary:
-
1 route in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.171917, 14.225254
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Hvitt pulver / Charlie Sheen
Descent: Scramble down the ramp in the direction of the Festvåg hiking trail. Some images: View this post on Instagram PA: Vegard With Stennes & Philip C, 22 En 2020 | M6 | 70m, 3 |
1.4.9.4. Senior veggen
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.169780, 14.226403
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wonderboy | AID:A1 | ||||
2 | Urrurr | AID:A1 | ||||
3 | Give some | AID:A1 | ||||
4 | Hooked | AID:A2 | ||||
5 | Farfar | 6- | ||||
6 | Still hard | 6 | ||||
7 | Guidinens travers | AID:A1 | ||||
8 | Hjemmepleiern | 5 | ||||
9 | Not giving up! | AID:A1 | ||||
10 | Sonnerkroppen | 7+ | ||||
11 | The babysitter | 5+ |
1.4.9.5. Junior veggen
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.169789, 14.225703
descripción
A sheltered, bolted crag with a short approach. Easy TR access. Popular in bad weather with folkehøgskole & NNKS.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ole | 3 | ||||
2 | Dole | FR:4a | ||||
3 | Doffen | FR:4b | ||||
4 | Vanskelig | FR:6a+ | ||||
5 | Vedvarande | FR:6b | ||||
6 | Balansere | FR:6a | ||||
7 | Puffin | FR:5b | ||||
8 | Verktogskrekk | FR:5c | ||||
9 | Duffen | FR:6a | ||||
10 | Herran og Derran | FR:5b | ||||
11 | Puffen | FR:4b | ||||
12 | Puffing | FR:4b | ||||
13 | Smågodt | 3 |
1.4.10. Henningsvær
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.151844, 14.202976
1.4.10.1. The School
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.151752, 14.194501
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | For the love of wet holds | 6B+ | ||||||
2 | Från jugg till slug | 6A+ | ||||||
3 | Börnout from the hörn and out | 6A+ | ||||||
4 | Mierda! | 6A | ||||||
5 | Corner kick | 6A | ||||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | Just do it | 6A |
1.4.10.2. Waterfront
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.151382, 14.193956
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Aiming for new heights | 7A+ | ||||||
2 | Fox hunt | 6C+ | ||||||
3 | Fox face | 5B | ||||||
4 | For fox sake | 6A | ||||||
5 | Feelin´foxy | 6A |
1.4.11. The Coast
- Summary:
-
64 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.176696, 14.258278
Acceso
Camp 4 is the most convenient place to access these routes (68.168727, 14.223594).
|
1.4.11.1. The boulders
- Summary:
-
35 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.169469, 14.230833
1.4.11.1.1. Geitvikneset
- Summary:
-
21 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.168757, 14.227486
|
1.4.11.1.2. Geitvika Boulders
- Summary:
-
14 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.170433, 14.234627
1.4.11.2. Jomfrupillaren
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.170978, 14.228569
descripción
The obvious buttress high & to the left of Geitvika (goat bay) has 3 high quality climbs.
Acceso
From the Engøysundet bridge carpark, follow the obvious trial leading East along the Coast to Boulder C then walk up to the cairn. Follow the trail, which leads around the point (when Jomfrupillaren becomes visible). Continue on the trail down, then across & up the boulder field towards the cliff on a faint climbers trail. You´re aiming for the strip of trees splitting the rocky face below the pillar. Take the faint trail straight up the trees which then traverses back left to the base of the cliff.
It´s also possible to traverse in from the left (slippy and some poison ivvy/spikey bushes) or right (longer).
Descenso
A clear trail leads from the top to Heiavatnet. From here follow the Festvågtind trail down to the road.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Den Siste Sommeren
Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Magnus Eriksson & Frej Wichman, 2008 | 7+ | 130m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Vårkåt
World class crack climbing & one of the must do lines on the islands Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Patrik Fransson, 1995 | 7 | 130m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★ Bingekos
Some images here- View this post on Instagram PAL: Sigve & Rune Harjo Jensen, Jul 2017 | 7- | 120m, 4 |
1.4.11.3. Geitvika
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.172266, 14.232760
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Aprilsnarr | 6- | 120m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★★ Landstrykere
PA: Mie Kastet & Odd-Roar Wiik, 2007 | 6+ | 140m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Pan
Thin gear needed & an extra piece or two in the 0.3-0.5 are nice to have. PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 1992 | 7- | 130m, 4 | |||||
4 | ★ Mordar Anders | 6+ |
1.4.11.4. Hamlet Wall
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.171958, 14.234942
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Frozen in Time | 5 | ||||
2 | Shark Ride | 5+ | ||||
3 | Tamnavulin | 5 | ||||
4 | Uigeadail | 5+ | ||||
5 | Milburn 25 | 5+ |
1.4.11.5. Time is a disaster
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.171368, 14.252212
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Time is a Disaster
PA: Nigel Redshaw & Alex Pearce, 2005 | 5- | 90m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★ Joika Raiders
Tackles obvious cracks and corners left of the cave.
PA: Christoffer Martinsen & Philip C, Jul 2023 | 7- AID:A0 | 3 | |||||
3 |
Rally English
This route starts in the right hand side of the cave on the arete below the obvious wide crack. Bring big gear (#3 to #5). The FAs recommend rapping from the first pitch (fixed gear)
PA: Alan Goldbetter & Emily Wetzel, 2017 | 6 | 55m, 3 | |||||
4 |
Krystallveggen
PA: Christoffer Martinsen & Erlend Øian, Jul 2023 | 3 | ||||||
5 |
Dragster 3000
This tackles the left leaning crack system which begins on the wall to the right of the arete
PA: Alan Goldbetter & Arno Viitaniemi, 2017 | 6- | 45m, 2 | |||||
The Cave | ||||||||
7 | Ruta 2 | |||||||
8 |
Chick Corea
Big cams nice to have (#5, #6) PA: Sofie Nordvik & Sindre Nordhagen, Jul 2023 | 6+ | 110m, 4 | |||||
9 | Ruta 4 |
1.4.11.6. Migan pillaren
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.178079, 14.272137
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Migan pillaren
There appears to be a couple of errors in the guidebook topo and description (P2, P3, P5). The pitch description below is what made sense to us with a 60m rope.
PA: Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wilk, 1995 | 6+ AID:A0 | 350m, 8 | |||
2 |
Heaven and hell
PA: Filip Zahradnik & Radovan Kunc, 2011 | 6+ AID:A1 | 430m, 11 | |||
3 |
Asturia Route
PA: Augel Castro & Miguel Angel Adrados, 2008 | 6- AID:A1 | 220m, 6 | |||
4 |
★★★ Risset rider
Steep, Yosemite style climbing. Perhaps the best route here. PA: Robin Thomas & Alex Moran, 2010 | 7+ | 180m, 4 | |||
5 |
★★ Them Crooked Seagulls
PA: Lars Martin Solberg & Ted Ekberg, 2014 | 7+ AID:A1 | 180m, 5 |
1.4.11.7. Kvandalstind
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.183015, 14.267869
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 |
Vestryggen
Approached from Festvåg hiking trail. From just below the summit, take the forked trail East down to the Festvåg/Budalstiden col. Continuing up again on a faint trail to gains West ridge of Budalstinden (some sections of exposed scrambling). From Budalstinden, continue headings East to the summit of Kvandalstind (Østryggen). A rope may be nice for this section, particularly if you plan on reversing the route. To descend reverse the route or head South down the valley in the general direction of Geitvika (same descent as the Migan pillaren walk-off). | 4 | ||||
3 |
Ain’t too proud to pray
A topo and route description is available from Norsk Tindeklubb- http://www.ntk.no/topo/aint-too-proud-to-pray/ | M5 | 400m |
1.4.11.7.1. Østryggen
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 68.181766, 14.274903
descripción
The eastern ridge has 2 established routes on the lower sections. There is plenty of new route potential.
Acceso
Ideally a boat. Next best option is from Henningsvær as per the Migan Pillaren approach. Via Paradiset is messed up on anything but low tide.
1.4.12. Vågakallen
- Summary:
-
24 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.187853, 14.294965
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Ridges | ||||||||
2 |
Østryggen
Some information described in the Ed Webdster guidebook. Route takes 5/6 hours by a competent party. There is a reason it´s not a classic (plenty of loose rock). PA: Arne Randers Heen & Lars Nordby, 1940 | 4 | ||||||
3 |
★★★ Nordryggen
A brief description & some images from Bergtagen guides here. GPX track with the approach here Some more images View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Arne Randers Heen & Lars Nordby, 1939 | 4+ | 510m, 12 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
StorpillarenIt´s a long approach/descent with excellent beta available on peakbook. There´s a spring just before the upper pillar approach so no need to carry water in. | ||||||||
5 |
★★★ Stormpillaren
Tackles the full height of the slabs and upper pillar. A big step up from Freya in terms of exposure and difficulty. Reportedly committing; You need to be in solid 8a shape for pitch 12 . Freed in 2017. PAL: Martin Skaar Oslund & Håkon Wegge, 29 Jul 2017 | 9- | 810m, 18 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Freya
Tackling the full height of Storpillaren, from the stiff lower slabs into natural corner systems. The line has now been freed a few times & is the obvious next step up from Storpillaren. Some bolted belays make retreats possible. Recent ascent description View this post on Instagram PAL: Martin Skaar Oslund & Thomas Meling, 2015 | 8 PROT:R - X | 810m, 20 | |||||
7 | Upper Wall Approach | 3 | ||||||
8 |
★★★ The Corner Kick
The King Line of the great pillar. With big exposure & stacked pitches, it´s a worthy destination route for those strong enough. To descend, continue up the final pitches (9.5-16) of Storpillaren Freed in 2015. There´s a Topo & description on Planet Mountain PAL: Martin Skaar Oslund, 2015 | 9- PROT:R - X | 380m, 10 | |||||
9 |
★ Genus Locy
Some aesthetic looking pitches that are rumoured to climb not quite as nice as the other lines here. PAL: Martin Skaar Oslund, 2015 | 9 PROT:R | 230m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Storpillaren
> Some images here- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PAL: Odd-Roar Wiik, Arild Meyer & Robert Caspersen, 2001 | 7 PROT:R - X | 620m, 17 | |||||
11 | Søring variant | 6+ AID:A1 | ||||||
MyggapillarenThe clean looking left pillar on the NE face of Vågakallen. These routes are accessed via the Paradiset path & the trail along the West shore of Kallevatnet (same one used for access ot Storpillaren). Scramble up to the base (some bushwhacking required). Descent by rapping (30,55,60,60 & 60m) | ||||||||
13 | Wee Beastie | 6 PROT:R | 160m, 4 | |||||
14 |
★★ Mygga
PA: Bo Andersen & Sverre Søgaard, 1976 | 5+ PROT:R | 290m, 9 | |||||
15 |
★★★ The midnight butterfly
A top50 line in the guidebook. Reports from parties repeating indicate it´s a bit of an adventure route. PA: Tapio Alhonsuo & Mira Alhonsuo, 2014 | 6+ PROT:R | 270m, 7 | |||||
The IceMany of the lines are described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article of Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. Scroll through Lofoten Tindeklubb`s facebook group for some low resloution images | ||||||||
17 |
Nordryggen Vinterrute
An often eyed, rarely climbed & highly prized line with difficulty varying wildly depending on conditions. Can be serious. The approach & descent exposes you to avalanche terrain. For a description and background on the routes history, see 2013 edition Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring, low resolution image here. There´s also a trip report PA: Arild Meyer & et al | |||||||
18 |
Bullock-Turner-Bensen 1
PA: 2011 | |||||||
19 |
Bullock-Turner-Bensen 2
PA: 2011 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
Night Crosses the Crown
A route description and topo is available on the AAC here PA: Kurt Hicks & Chris Wright, 2015 | WI4+ M6 PROT:R | 750m, 18 | |||||
21 |
The Scottish Route
PA: Benson & Robertson, 2001 | M7 | 800m, 15 | |||||
22 |
Invasion in the Land of Vikings
A description of this climb can be found on the AAC PA: David Jonglez & et al, 2004 | WI5 M6 | 650m | |||||
23 |
Sætherruta
PA: 2012 | |||||||
24 |
Storrenna
PA: Arild Meyer, Odd-Roar Wiik & Kjell Skog, 1976 | |||||||
25 |
Årtun-Haley
PA: Bjørn-Eivind Årtun & Colin Haley, 2011 | |||||||
26 |
Meyer-Skog
PA: Arild Meyer & Kjell Skog, 1976 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
Mieux vaut tard que jamais / Better late than never
PA: 2004 | WI4 M6 | 650m | |||||
28 |
Glass Uhr
PA: 2004 | M5 | 650m |
1.4.13. Kalle-området
- Summary:
-
205 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.181891, 14.319700
|
1.4.13.1. Trolldalen
- Summary:
-
43 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.198352, 14.317361
Resumen
A scenic valley home to several highly rated climbs in the guidebook. Unfortunately, almost always shaded and receives runoff from the peaks above. Best visited after a long dry spell.
restricciones
The valley is sheltered from wind & has standing water so in the spring/summer the mosquitoes here can be particularly bad. Bug spray recommended for the approach/trad lines. Pick other spots for bouldering.
There is a small pullout for 1/2 cars. If full, park at the Kalleveien/Hopsveien intersection. (68.195773, 14.335242)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Outlying | ||||||||
5 |
Tranedansen
Located in a corner at the top of the grassy gulley on cliff to the right of Trollfestningen. Sarts at the same height as Spurven finishes. There´s a description in the old Ed Webster guidebook; 4 skyhook moves needed on pitch 4. PA: Arild Meyer & Finn Tore Bjørnstad, 1977 | 5 AID:A2 | 10m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Til ungdommen
Located on the North face of Lille Vågakallen. Line starts up the right hand side of the prominant black streak. Descend via 3 rapps PA: Odd-Roar Wiik, 2008 | 6+ AID:A1 PROT:R | 170m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Anachronism
A fully equipped route on the clean white slab at the end of Trolldalen. Approach by walking along the left hand side of the valley and around the lake. PA: Arild Meyer, 2006 | 7- | 55m, 2 | |||||
The boulders |
1.4.13.1.1. Trolltrappen
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.193529, 14.326345
|
1.4.13.1.2. Trollfestningen
- Summary:
-
14 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.195387, 14.319577
|
1.4.13.1.3. Glåmtinden
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 68.203472, 14.308079
Acceso
Park in the pullout on the E10 midway between the tunnel and the Henningsvær turnoff. Glåmtinden is visible from here, the trail is signposted & very easy to follow
(68.208001, 14.254262)
|
1.4.13.1.4. Bertas lefser
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.195213, 14.332167
1.4.13.1.5. Cabeza
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.195063, 14.330064
1.4.13.1.6. Man Without Qualities
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.195806, 14.330193
1.4.13.1.7. Power Slab
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196781, 14.327753
1.4.13.1.8. Flying V
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196738, 14.327555
1.4.13.1.9. Sea of Crimps
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196649, 14.327680
1.4.13.1.10. Railbreak
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196786, 14.326424
1.4.13.1.11. Pickin' Flowers
- Summary:
-
1 route in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196842, 14.326545
1.4.13.1.12. Waldorf & Statler
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.196971, 14.326645
1.4.13.2. Kallebukta
- Summary:
-
47 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.188972, 14.340715
1.4.13.2.1. The boulders
- Summary:
-
37 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.188643, 14.342396
1.4.13.2.2. Honnikornsvaet
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.189287, 14.331756
|
1.4.13.2.3. Cornflakesveggen
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.191244, 14.331520
|
1.4.13.2.4. Apa
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.188396, 14.343651
|
1.4.13.3. Øvredalen
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.193858, 14.315659
|
1.4.13.3.1. Lille Vågakallen
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.195151, 14.306362
descripción
These `3 star´ guidebook routes are likely not worth the effort.
|
1.4.13.3.2. Alkoholveggen
- Summary:
-
8 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.194106, 14.316113
|
1.4.13.3.3. Småkallanryggen
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.193928, 14.321279
|
1.4.13.4. Paradiset
- Summary:
-
102 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.181523, 14.320395
Resumen
Towering peaks above, ocean views, fast drying granite & free camping nearby make this scenic crag a dirtbags paradise.
descripción
A much loved & vibrant climbing area with great bouldering and single pitch cragging scattered across the granite cliffs & boulders of Vågakallen´s shoreline.
Much of Lofoten´s free-spirited climbing soul emerged from the walls & campgrounds here, along with a big chunk of North Norwegian climbing history. Routes established by Hans Doseth in the late 70s are still testpieces with modern gear today & if you´re thinking you bagged yourself an FA, well, prepare to be disappointed. Arild Meyer almost certainly soloed it in his boots back when the origins of NordNorsk Klatreskole were been founded here.
While Air BnB slowly snuffs out Henningsvær´s spark, the spirit of Lofoten climbing remains free, wild & vibrant in Paradiest.
Well that’s the way it used to be- progress now has a large asphalt car park with timed parking (first 4 hours free) and a much smaller area for free camping with paid toilets and shower if it’s working and a maximum of 2 days stay.
Acceso
From Kallebukta, walk South to the trail blocked by a chain (the old parking area). This is a dirt track that heads off to the right after the beach and befor the houses. Follow this South until you reach the inlet. From here, you´ll be able to see Svenske diedret on your right and Butter arms to your left.
The inlet´s roughly central to all the climbs, which are scattered out along the coast.
Historia
Some of the classic lines:
Lofoten Reality, Vågarisset, Dosethrisset, Svenske Diedret, Butter Arms, Kyllingvingen, Kveldskosen, Morstadeggen, Mount Up, Campus Kalle, The Tao-Te Circuit
1.4.13.4.1. The boulders
- Summary:
-
17 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.181269, 14.328908
1.4.13.4.2. Vågarisset
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.183849, 14.319230
Acceso
Break right and take slabs at the main cliff. There´s cairns to mark the start of the trail. Take the first chance to break left. Following the clear trail right involves a bunch of extra scrambling. You´re aiming for the vegetated ramp left of the routes.
Descenso
Vågarisset & Lofoten Reality: Possible to rapp from top of second pitches. Slings and fixed gear. 2 x 60m ropes needed. Bring some extra cord to replace tatt if going early in season.
From top, careful scrambling down grass & ledges to the West.
|
1.4.13.4.3. Dammen
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.180979, 14.320757
descripción
Sunny crag, top rope access and entry level grades make this an ideal wall for new climbers
|
1.4.13.4.4. Dosethrisset
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.180560, 14.319592
|
1.4.13.4.5. Draughella
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.180169, 14.312636
descripción
This tall boulder is a 5-10 scramble from Dosethrisset. There are a handful of routes on the North & East faces.
|
1.4.13.4.6. Main Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 68.181024, 14.323716
descripción
Not sustained - most if not all routes are split in two parts on the mid ledge.
Some images:
View this post on Instagram
1.4.13.4.7. Svenske Diedret
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.182061, 14.325172
|
1.4.13.4.8. Butter Arms
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.181449, 14.329206
descripción
Beautiful rock formaton with several easy cracks. Perfect to warm up and enjoy a stunning view of the beach below.
Acceso
From the parking follow the path to the beach, you will find this rock on your left. Impossible to miss.
Descenso
It's possible to descend by foot in the gully right of the climbs or along a beaten path on the backside of the rock.
|
1.4.13.4.9. Storsvaet
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.181095, 14.330858
descripción
A sunny & friendly slab of rock. Mellow grades and TR access make it a great option for beginners/new climbers.
Acceso
Some images here-
View this post on Instagram
1.4.13.4.10. Living in Paradise
- Summary:
-
11 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.181161, 14.332135
1.4.13.4.11. Demonstranten
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.181470, 14.333166
descripción
A shaded notch between boulders with a handful of cracks. Not really up to usual Lofoten standards but it´s sheltered from the wind.
1.4.13.4.12. Kveldskosen / Dama Dablam
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 68.180526, 14.336986
|
1.4.14. Kabelvåg- området
- Summary:
-
140 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.213037, 14.425506
1.4.14.1. Dalsjorda
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.223459, 14.362924
Resumen
There are two classic frozen waterfalls & at least 1 other climbed line to be found in the valley below Breitinden/Stortinden/Gårdstinden
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Ukjent 1
On the opposite side of the valley from Centre linje, an excellent line forms on the ridgeline back from Gårdstinden (in the direction of Stortinden). Abalakov descent Some images- View this post on Instagram | WI4 | 3 | |||||
2 |
Ukjent 2
Some images here View this post on Instagram | WI4+ | 6 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Centre linje
This line forms under Stortinden and roughly follows a drainage contour from Andrevatnet, ending on the summit of peak 682. The route is broken into 3 sections of frozen waterfall ice, usually climbed with a running belay up to good ledges. The final pitch is steep (85 degrees). PA: Arild Meyer | WI5 | 400m, 3 |
1.4.14.2. Ørsvåg
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.214867, 14.386273
Acceso
Approach East of the paddocks. Do not walk through any fenced areas.
Park sensibly here (68.212780, 14.387859)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Boulder A | ||||||||
2 | Spring thing | 6A | ||||||
3 | Chunk Feeder | 6B | ||||||
4 | Ängsarêten | 4C | ||||||
5 | AutoCAD | 6B | ||||||
Boulder B | ||||||||
7 | Muffin Challenge | 6A+ | ||||||
8 | Swinger | 6A+ | ||||||
9 | Trickster | 6A+ | ||||||
10 | Grit Ekland | 6B+ | ||||||
Boulder C | ||||||||
12 |
Ruta #9
The arête. Sit start 7b | 6C | ||||||
13 | Ruta #10 | 8B | ||||||
14 | I skuggan av Presten | 7A+ | ||||||
Boulder D | ||||||||
16 | After Work | 6A | ||||||
17 | High Step | 6B |
1.4.14.3. Sandvika
- Summary:
-
27 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.203702, 14.425963
Resumen
An easy access sports crag with short and steep routes. Many lines are quick to dry. Majority of the crag was rebolted August 2019.
Acceso
Main Wall (68.203013, 14.427287)
1.4.14.3.1. Skårungen
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.205324, 14.421948
descripción
A small slab ideal for introducing new climbers/beginners
1.4.14.3.2. Main Wall
- Summary:
-
20 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.202611, 14.426414
|
1.4.14.4. Ursvika
- Summary:
-
4 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.205603, 14.479538
descripción
A single scenic boulder by the sea. Gets lots of sun & dries fast.
Acceso
Park sensibly here (68.207407, 14.475597)
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Thor försökte
Sit start & up the left arête | 6A | ||||||
2 |
★ Han är bara lat
Sit start & up the right arête | 6B | ||||||
3 |
★★ Utterjägaren
Sit start & through the overhang | 7A | ||||||
4 |
★ Ukjente hjørnet
The easy stemming/layback corner | 4 |
1.4.14.5. Urdstabben
- Summary:
-
22 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.220747, 14.510439
Resumen
A secluded but well developed crag. Many lines have been rebolted throughout 2019/20.
restricciones
Roadworks completed in 2020 mean parking´s now easiest just past Kabelvåg ( 68.220542, 14.499579). Walk East (towards Svolvær) up the new bike path 400 metres until you reach a barricade on your right (there´s also a ´benken´sign here, which leads away from the crag trail to a bench in the woods).
Acceso
It´s easy to get lost if you havn´t been here & the guidebook description can be difficult to follow.
Head down the faint trail at the barricade (68.221718, 14.507862), which goes down the initial mossy slopes then winds it´s way roughly South, gradually moving towards the cliff & a short gulley (to your right). A few meters down this gulley you scramble up & left, where the trail becomes much easier to follow. It winds up the slope (West) to where you finally get your first view of the crag.
|
1.4.14.5.1. Hovedveggen
- Summary:
-
13 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.219756, 14.508529
1.4.14.5.2. Sydveggen
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Cliff
Lat / Long: 68.219677, 14.510479
1.4.14.5.3. Nordland Pils
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Boulder
Lat / Long: 68.222171, 14.514149
1.4.14.6. Hjørnet
- Summary:
-
10 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.226176, 14.524167
Acceso
Park sensibly here (68.225467, 14.526137)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Risset | 5 | ||||||
2 | Diederet | 6 | ||||||
3 | RUSS 96 | 6 | ||||||
4 | Fast Foot | 5+ | ||||||
5 | Den fantastastiske Mikkel rev | 6+ | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★★ Ninja survive | 8+ | ||||||
7 | ★ Fu Manchu | 7 | ||||||
8 |
★ Sko and garn
Mixed route that rejoins Ninjarisset at the top | 6+ | ||||||
9 |
★★★ Ninjarisset
An excellent finger jamming crack & one of the test piece N7s in Lofoten View this post on Instagram PA: Petter Restorp, 2000 | 7 | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Han far e tilbake | 8- |
1.4.14.7. Finnvika
- Summary:
-
61 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.222361, 14.523689
Acceso
A small parking area was completed summer 2020 about 150m South of Avfallsselskap (recycling centre/tip). Conveniently, the crag trail also starts here.
The sports routes are best approached on a low/mid tide.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | Not Known | FR:6a | 10m | |||||
3 | ★ Tante Bente | FR:6a+ | 10m | |||||
4 | ★★★ Oves kvalbiff | FR:6a | 10m | |||||
5 | ★ Hardt klientell | 7 | 35m, 2 | |||||
6 | ★★ Svinluggen | FR:7a+ | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ Langbeins svaparadise | FR:6c | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 | ★ Ernas Forsvinningsnummer | FR:6c | 18m | |||||
9 | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | FR:5c | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Gravitasjon | FR:6c | 20m | |||||
11 |
★ Mono Bongo
PA: Joakim Flatøy Aae & Charlotte Halkier, 28 Mayo 2021 | FR:6c/c+ | 20m | |||||
12 | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | FR:6a+ | 20m | |||||
13 | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | FR:6b | 22m | |||||
14 | ★★ Surprise Cafe | FR:6b+ | 22m | |||||
15 | Lukket Projekt | FR:7b+/c | 22m | |||||
Håkjaerringa | ||||||||
17 |
★★★ Håkjaerringa
Mixed line through the overhang | 8+ |
1.4.14.7.1. Finnvika/Tjeldbergvika Boulders
- Summary:
-
46 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.223044, 14.528453
descripción
Boulders by the sea largely developed by Ben Moon.
Acceso
Parking as for Finnvika sports crag/Ninjarisset (next to the bike path between Kabelvåg and Svolvær)
1.4.15. Stor Kongsvatnet- området
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.246781, 14.469832
1.4.15.1. Tjeldbergtind ice crag
descripción
Roadside crag on a shaded North facing wall. Depending on conditions, a handful of routes may form in the 70-80 degree range.
Easy access to the trees above makes setting up topropes straight forward
Acceso
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
|
1.4.15.2. Damvatnet
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.241811, 14.423078
Resumen
Some ice lines form above the hanging lake. Opportunities for multi-pitch routes and cragging.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hero-ice
PA: Jonas Dahlstrup, 2021 | 3 | ||||
2 |
Scary-ice
PA: Jonas Dahlstrup, 2021 | 3 |
1.4.16. Svolvær- området
- Summary:
-
69 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.252689, 14.599809
|
1.4.16.1. The boulders
- Summary:
-
53 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.242455, 14.614114
1.4.16.1.1. Svolen
- Summary:
-
24 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.244332, 14.610112
1.4.16.1.2. Børvagen
- Summary:
-
29 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.240572, 14.636472
1.4.16.2. Svolværgeita
- Summary:
-
7 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.246214, 14.588028
descripción
restricciones
Geita is a highway for guiding companies June through August. Expect ques at the base & the rapp stations. A late afternoon start, avoiding rappelruta/1910 ruta & using the top anchor to get off (41m) is your best bet for getting in/out quickly.
Acceso
A paved staircase up to the valley below Fløya and a new parking area was built late 2019. Park here then follow signs to Fløya up to the valley. Take the first trail right when Geita comes into view.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Rapellruta / Svolværgeita direct | 5 | 48m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ 1910 Ruta
PA: Carl Wilhelm Rubenson, Alf B.Bryn & Ferdinand Shcjelderup, 1910 | 4+ | 56m, 3 | |||||
3 |
Baksida
PA: Bjørn Bommen & B.Lyche, 1928 | 5+ | 44m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Englevinger
PA: Ed Webster, Arild Meyer & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1993 | 6+ | 85m, 3, 1 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Forsida
PA: B.Bommen & B.Lyche, 1928 | 5+ | 120m, 5 | |||||
6 |
Vegetarianeren
PA: 1968 | 5+ AID:A1 | 160m | |||||
7 |
Highway to Heaven
PA: Ed Webster & Odd-Roar Wiik, 1991 | 7 AID:A1 | 110m |
1.4.16.3. Kirkegårdsrisset
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.244062, 14.583346
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Kirkegårdsrisset
PA: Robert Caspersen, 2003 | 8- | 27m, 2 |
1.4.16.4. Blåtinden
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.253804, 14.576650
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Skårungens hevn | 6 AID:A1 | ||||
2 | Frosken | 5 |
1.4.16.5. Svolværveien Ice
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Sector
Lat / Long: 68.246320, 14.604981
descripción
Between the town and airport tunnels above the E10, some prised lines form when the Lofoten ice gods are kind. Mostly South facing, they´re generally only climbable early season (Dec-Feb).
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ukjent 1
Poorly protected in the upper sections. Top out on Fløya then follow the hiking trial to descend. | WI5 M3 | 6 | |||||
2 |
Ukjent 2
Pick a suitable tree to retreat | WI4 | 2 | |||||
3 | Ukjent 3 | WI3+ - 4 |
1.4.16.6. Skråpillaren
- Summary:
-
2 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.247764, 14.615496
Acceso
It´s a N3 jungle approach to the base. Not advisable when wet.
Descent- Follow the ridge to Fløya. From here it´s down the low angled grassy ramp to the E10 or take obvious hiking trials down to Svolvær.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Don't do it direct
PA: Jussi Pöyhönen & Max Miner, 2017 | 6 | 6 | |||||
2 | ★ Meyer/Wiik ruta | 6 | 230m, 6 |
1.4.16.7. Råna
- Summary:
-
1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.247800, 14.626708
Acceso
Approach via the boulder field, up onto the slab then up the right corner where a faint climbers trail then leads to the base. The slabs are the natural drainage line from above so this one´s best avoided when wet.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Råna
Great mountain climbing. Some images here- | 6- | 270m |
1.4.17. Northeast
- Summary:
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56 routes in Region
Lat / Long: 68.319220, 14.867640
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Ridge Traverses | ||||||||
2 |
★ Lofoteggen
North to South ridge traverse (Kvittinden-Tappen-Stampen-Vatterfjordtinden). Scenic scrambling with some nice exposed sections. You may want a small rack. GPX track here | 2+/3- |
1.4.17.1. Skrova
- Summary:
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6 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.162926, 14.680285
1.4.17.1.1. Skrova Øst
- Summary:
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6 routes in Field
Lat / Long: 68.167773, 14.695338
1.4.17.1.2. Stappen
Resumen
On the East side, there is a small wall with two DBB anchors.
1.4.17.2. Lillemolla
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.196719, 14.735464
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Lofoten Panorama | 6+ AID:A2 | 300m, 10 | |||||
2 |
★ Man Hands
Beautiful location and good climbing in the lower pitches. The 2 crux traverses, however, are heavily sandbagged and runout. Another 3 stars in the guidebook but not recommended line. PA: Rob Pizem & and some other Americans, 2008 | 7 PROT:R | 7 | |||||
3 | The only flower she gets | 8- AID:A1 | 5 |
1.4.17.3. Stormolla
- Summary:
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9 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.247974, 14.893892
restricciones
Easiest option is via boat. In summer, it´s possible to take the ferry from Digermulen.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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HulderbergetAn overhanging wall 15-20m high with one bolted crack. In 2021, further development by Jarl & friends has seen several other lines established on gear. Accessed via the path from Brettesnes. Some descriptions and images can be found on the Lofoten Tindeklubb facebook page. | ||||||||
2 | Ukjent 1 | 6 | ||||||
3 | Ukjent 2 | 7- | ||||||
4 |
Fullboltet Risset
The gasp bolted crack PA: Unknown | 8- | 20m | |||||
5 |
Thundra
PA: Petter Kristensen, 2021 | 8+ | ||||||
6 |
Jårls Projekt (Lukket)
A closed project | 8+/9- | ||||||
7 | Ukjent 3 | 7+ | ||||||
8 |
Hulderdøra
PA: Martine Limstrand, 2021 | 8+ | ||||||
9 |
Kvinnelist
PA: Martine Limstrand, 2021 | 7+ | ||||||
10 | Ukjent 4 | 6+ |
1.4.17.4. Ptarmigan Slabs
- Summary:
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5 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.305731, 14.609612
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1.4.17.4.1. Hellskardtindan
- Summary:
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1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.309876, 14.626057
1.4.17.4.2. Hellskardnuten
- Summary:
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4 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.310085, 14.600436
1.4.17.5. Rulten
- Summary:
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11 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.299865, 14.787300
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 | Sydrenna (Venstre Rulten) | 3 | ||||||
2 | Østryggen (Venstre Rulten) | 5- | ||||||
3 |
Yggdrasil
The first route up the West wall ascends the pillar left of the central grass line. The hard crux moves can be done at 7- A1. Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Jarl Gåsvær, Sigrid & Petter Kristensen, 2021 | 8/8+ | ||||||
4 | Østryggen (Austra Rulten) | 5- | ||||||
5 | Valkyrje | 8- AID:A3 | 8 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The IceSeveral lines here are described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article of Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. Scroll through Lofoten Tindeklubb`s facebook group for some low resloution images | ||||||||
7 |
The Bullocks
Norsk Tindeklubb has a description and topo available PA: Marco Prezelj & Bjørn Eivind, 2009 | M6 | 500m | |||||
8 |
No sleep until Rulten
PA: Stian Bruvoll & Chris Wright, Mar 2023 | AI4+ M7 | ||||||
9 |
Remember you´re a buddha / Vestpillaren
PA: 2009 | WI5+ M6 | ||||||
10 |
★ Syklotronen
The original 2008 first ascent is located on the right hand side of the face. PA: Bjørn Kirkhaug & Mathias Strømquist, 2008 | WI4 M4 | ||||||
11 |
Syklotronen direkt / `Czech direkt´
A direct finish to the original line up the wall. PA: Martin Klonfar & Jiri Splichal, 2009 | M6 | ||||||
12 |
Artic Light
This line is located on the north side. There is a trip report here | WI4 M6 | 250m |
1.4.17.6. Geitgaljen
- Summary:
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4 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.341169, 14.815696
Resumen
This towering spire of granite is the eye catching feature when driving North-East along the E10.
descripción
Steep, sustained climbing on the SE face
restricciones
Acceso
A long approach up the valley. The final gulley is steep & often holds snow year round. Many parties take mountaineering boots & an axe. The descent off the back is much, much more chill.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Italiensk rute / The italian route
Freed by a strong Norwegian team in 2020. Sustained climbing following the guidebook description where 3 additional pitches link into a shared finish with Troll meet latinos. Take many small cams & a #5 (#6 is also nice). The bolted belays from the 1992 Italian attempt are ancient relics at this point. PAL: Rune Harjo Jensen & Jonas Østrem, Ag 2020 | 7 | 11 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Troll meet latinos
Take standard Lofoten rack plus big cams (Doubles #2 to #4 plus a #5) Topo available on planet mountain PA: Helmut Gargitter, Ivan Calderon, Fernando Rubio & Simon Kehrer, 2013 | 7+ AID:A0 | 350m, 10 | |||||
3 |
There and back again
PA: Carl Grunlund & Lars Martin Solberg, 2014 | 7+ AID:A1 | 320m, 8 | |||||
4 |
Brudevalsen
The SE ridge of Geitgaljartind. Some images here- View this post on Instagram PA: Jarl Gåsvær & Sigrid, Jul 2021 | 6-/6 | 5 |
1.4.17.7. Trakta
- Summary:
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2 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.336536, 14.882224
Resumen
A remote and beautiful summit in the heart of Lofoten´s most spectacular mountain range, Trolltinden.
restricciones
You´ll need to arrange a boat into/out of the fjord. It´s mostly scrambling to reach the peak but, because of logistics it´s easier to complete as an overnighter (the summit is an amazing place to bivvy)
Acceso
Boat to Korneset on the Northern shore of Rørhopvatnet. Destination Lofoten is your best bet for reaching out & planning logistics ahead of your trip-
Alojamiento
Roll mat. Sleeping bag.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
Nordvestryggen
PA: Alf Bryn, Carl Wilhelm Rubensen & Ferdinand Schjelderup, 1910 | 3 | ||||
2 |
Vestpillaren (Trakta)
PA: Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog & Johnny Lauritsen, 1976 | 5+ AID:A1 | 15 |
1.4.17.8. Higravtindan
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.353556, 14.812120
Resumen
Plenty of winter climbing has been done here but in classic lofoten style, route descriptions and topos are limited. Scenic climbing with many, many ice and alpine/mixed options.
descripción
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Terrible Twos
Given a Scottish grade of IX 10. There are some photos and descriptions here and here PA: Greg Boswell & Jeff Mercier, En 2020 | 120m, 3 | ||||
2 |
The Tour of The Coward
Topo and images View this post on Instagram PA: Greg Boswell & Jeff Mercier, En 2020 | WI5+ | 40m | |||
3 |
Taking it Home
Images and descriptions: View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Greg Boswell & Jeff Mercier, En 2020 | WI6 M9 PROT:R - X | 40m |
1.4.17.9. Abrahamstind
- Summary:
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4 routes in Area
Lat / Long: 68.378721, 14.842807
descripción
Most lines here are described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. Scroll through Lofoten Tindeklubb`s facebook group for a low resloution copy
Acceso
It´s a bit of a mess getting to the base (skis or snowshoes required). A boat would be nice..
Historia
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
All in
Some information here PA: 2012 | WI7 M8 | 490m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Nothing compares 2 U / The Swiss Route
Visible from the road, this line follows the prominent couloir. Norsk Tindeklubb has a description available PA: 2009 | WI6 M6 | 420m, 10 | |||||
3 |
Green & Grey
The original line, some information here PA: Thomas Meling, Magnus Erikson & Joel Frans, 2012 | WI4+ M6 | ||||||
4 | Wish You Were Here | AID:A0 WI4 M6 | 420m |
1.4.17.10. Fiskebøl
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.441108, 14.932907
descripción
Some topos are available from the Norwegian Mountain Club
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
Rennarrelva left side
Abalakov descent | WI4 | 150m, 4 | |||
2 | Rennarrelva middle side | WI4+ | 150m | |||
3 | Rennarrelva right side | WI3 | 150m, 3 |
1.4.17.11. Stauren
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 68.380083, 14.683731
descripción
These lines are are described in 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet and Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
Norwegian Route / `British Route´ / `French Route´
Claimed by seperate French & British teams but climbed earlier by the locals. There´s a topo in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. PA: Anette Larsen & Trym Alte Sæland, 2009 | |||||
2 |
Ukjent 1
A line right of Norwegian Route has been climbed by the locals | |||||
3 |
Ukjent 2
Another line climbed by locals right of Norwegian Route and left of the Norwegian-Slovenian Route | |||||
4 |
Norwegian-Slovenian Route
The AAC has a freey available topo PA: Marco Prezelj & Trym Alte Sæland | 400m | ||||
5 |
★★★ Bruvoll-Widlund
Route tackling the obvious weakness. Possibly (likely?) climbed earlier. Accessed via couloir immediately South of the Buttress in the Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring and AAC Topos. Some images here View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Stian Bruvoll & Andreas Widlund, 1 En 2022 | WI4 - 5 | 5 |