Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Vesterålen Guvåg Brattbergan | |||||
Risset | |||||
Vesterålen Trollskåla Hovedveggen | |||||
4+ | Lett og fin | ||||
5 | Ytterside | ||||
Vesterålen Trollskåla Høyre | |||||
4 | Barneruta | ||||
FR:6a+ | Stomperud
PA: Ørnulf Berthinussen, 2019 | ||||
FR:6b | Awkward
PA: Ørnulf Berthinussen, 2019 | ||||
5 | Sophie´s 2nd rute
PA: Sophie Baginski, 2019 | ||||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Olstinden | |||||
5+ | Sørvest pillaren | ||||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Vinstad | |||||
7 | Pure Addiction
1
6
40m
2
7-
50m
3
7
40m
4
6+
35m
5
6+
50m
6
7-
60m
| 280m, 6 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Storskiva | |||||
6- | East Butress
Description and topo available Descent follows the SE ridge in the direction of Vinstad. PA: Jordi Esteve, Pau Gómez & Gerber Cucurell, 2016 | 13 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Helvetestinden | |||||
6- | Left Approximation
PA: Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997 | 18 | |||
7- AID:A0 PROT:R - X | ★ Terrs i mar
A serious and sandbagged line with a death pitch up high and some difficult route finding. Not recommended. Topo here Some images here: View this post on Instagram More images and brief desription PA: Jordi Esteve & Gerber Cucurell, 2015 | 630m, 16 | |||
6+ AID:A3 | Thirst in the clouds
An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here PA: Orujov Alex & et al, 2009 | 16 | |||
7- | Noensfoten
PA: Salvador Llorens & Guillermo Cuadrado, 2015 | 570m, 14 | |||
6+ PROT:R | ★ Ticket to Greenland
A serious and sandbagged line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards. Not recommended. Topo here Images here: View this post on Instagram PA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek | 12 | |||
6+ | ★★ The Next Best Thing
1
6
60m
2
6+
40m
3
6+
50m
4
6+
30m
5
5
40m
6
5
50m
7
5
50m
8
4
55m
> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on NBT Some images- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Adam Stack, 2005 | 380m, 8 | |||
7 PROT:R | ★★ Norwegian Sheep Ranch
One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6. PA: Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden, 2005 | 6 | |||
6- | ★★ Highway to hell
1
4+
40m
2
5
55m
3
6-
60m
4
4+
90m
Perhaps the most popular route to the summit PA: Åsmund Vaage & Steinar Holden, 2016 | 250m, 5 | |||
7- | ★★ Tradicionarius
1
5+
2
6-
3
6
4
6
5
7-
6
5
PA: Salvador Llorens & Guillermo Cuadrado, 2015 | 250m, 6 | |||
7+ | Första approximationen
1
5
10m
2
6
30m
3
7+
20m
4
3+
70m
PA: Joakim Söderström & Jonas Wiklund, 2010 | 130m, 4 | |||
6+ | Första approximationen direkt
The direct finish to Första approximationen | 20m | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Stamprevtinden | |||||
7 AID:A2 | Sweet dreams then beautiful nightmares
PA: Jiri Švihálek & Ondra Švihálek, 2012 | 480m, 13 | |||
7/7+ | The Human Timeline
On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.
PAL: Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, 25 Mayo 2019 | 600m, 20 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Merraflestinden | |||||
6+ AID:A1 | Kor e hammaren Edvard
PA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002 | 14 | |||
7- AID:A0 | Borr i Bekkmørtna
PA: Jonas Tetlie & Knut Storvik, 2002 | 12 | |||
7 | Indiana
PA: Rob Lamey & Mike Rolf, 2016 | 10 | |||
7+ | Bilberry Meadow
1
6
2
6
3
5
4
6+
5
7+
6
6
7
6+
8
5
Topo here. Be prepared to run it out at the grade for sections on the 2/3 crux pitches. Some big cams nice to have for the rest of the climb. A description and some images of the route can be found here PA: Rob Lamey & Mike Rolf, 2016 | 8 | |||
7+ | Syv Veggen
There are topos here and here. The first ascentionists recommend taking a #6 to protect the pitch 5 off width. A description and some images of the route can be found here PA: Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, Mayo 2017 | 480m, 11 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Segltinden | |||||
7+ AID:A0 | Hoist the colours
PA: L. Martin Solberg & J. Broch Haugue, 2014 | 340m | |||
7- | Achilles Tendon | 340m | |||
7- | Bergekongens Krone | ||||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Marklitinden | |||||
5+ | Sørveggen
PA: Ruth Fenn & Stefan Grisser, 1999 | 10 | |||
6- PROT:R | Sjømann
A topo & some images available here PA: Gerber Cucurell & Felix Queipo, 2016 | ||||
6 AID:A1 PROT:R | Hungry Eyes
1
2
2
3+
3
5
4
5
5
5+
6
5
7
6
8
6-
9
6 A1
10
6
11
5+ R
PA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek, 2009 | 400m, 11 | |||
5+ | Right pillar | ||||
7 AID:A1 | `Paret Nord´
A description & topo available here PA: Unknown | ||||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Moltbærtinden | |||||
7 AID:A2 | Diamantfinner
On the North Face of Moltbaertinden North Peak. Description & topo available
PAL: Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell & Jordi Esteve, 24 Mayo 2019 | 400m | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Breiflogtinden | |||||
7 | Permit to Åsgård
Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted. PA: Holger Jantsch, Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997 | 600m, 16 | |||
7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later
1
4
2
5-
3
6+
4
7+
5
6
6
6
7
6+
8
6
9
6
10
4
11
6-
12
6
13
6+
14
6+
One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.
Some images here- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Helmut Gargitter, Simon Kehrer, Ivan Calderon, Fredrico Pisani & Fernando Rubio, 2013 | 600m, 14 | |||
6- | Recht Rinne
PA: Svein Smelvær & Bjørn Hanche-Olsen, 1972 | 17 | |||
8- AID:A3 PROT:R | Arctic Odyssey
Description and topo available here: PA: D. Panov, A. Panov & A. Demirov, 2017 | 950m, 20 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Kirkefjorden Branntuva | |||||
6+ PROT:R | Sound of waves
Bold slab climbing. There´s a topo here. AAC article with a description here PA: Lukas Marecek & Jirí Svihálek, 2009 | 450m | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Reineburger | |||||
{FR} 4 | ★★★ That time you got chased by an angry Norvegian farmer
Follow the obvious crack up the inside corner. Easy to protect. Beware the thin flake. PA: Luca De Giorgi, 5 Sep 2016 | 8m | |||
{FR} 3 | Nobody likes Gill
Follow the crack to the right and climb the arete til the top. PA: Paul White, 5 Sep 2016 | 8m | |||
4- | ★★ right on the edge
Make a big step over the water and climb "right on the Edge". PA: Georg Schrutka, 24 Ag 2019 | 10m | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Akkarviktinden | |||||
5+ AID:A2 | Todarodes Sagittatus | 200m, 5 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Ølkontinden | |||||
6+ | It's All About the Numbers | ||||
6 | Looks can be Deceiving | ||||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Reinesvaet | |||||
6 | The American Tourist | ||||
5 | ★★ Sea Breeze | ||||
6 | Nonchalance | 8 | |||
5- | Aanie Onyoo | 10 | |||
Lofoten Moksnesøya Tindstinden | |||||
5+ | ★★ Tindstinden | 100m | |||
Lofoten Flakstadøya Stortind | |||||
6 | Øst pillaren | 8 | |||
7 | Aina sugar kantarell | 11 | |||
7- | Slovakiaruta | ||||
Lofoten Flakstadøya Ramberg | |||||
7 | Ramberger | 4 | |||
6+ | Midtgardsormen | 4 | |||
Lofoten Vestvågøy Gimsøya Gimsøymyren | |||||
2 | ★ Gimsøytraversen
The traverse of the Gimsøy skyline is a fine tour for running/hiking in the summer. Begin via the Storknubben hiking trail then from the Summit continue East along the U-shaped ridges before eventually descending via NW slope of Skjolden. There are a couple of short technical sections which slow things down. Allow a half day for hiking or 3/4 hours for running. A GPX file and photos available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4016851045 | ||||
Lofoten Vestvågøy Gimsøya Boathouse Wall | |||||
5+ AID:A2 | Disappointment in her eyes | 35m | |||
Lofoten Vestvågøy Stamsund | |||||
Ukjent 1
The left roof crack | |||||
Ukjent 2
The right roof crack | |||||
Lofoten Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||
FR:6b+ | Crux-Judas
Mixed line. Shares lower-off with Rutger Hauer. PA: Knut Storvik, 2005 | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||
6 | ★★ At dawn, we ride
1
6-
30m
2
6
25m
3
6
50m
4
4+
50m
5
5-
30m
A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays. The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.
Some images here- View this post on Instagram View this post on Instagram PA: Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long & Philip C, 3 Oct 2019 | 190m, 5 | |||
5+ | ★ Tvål
PA: Patrick Fransson & Odd-Roar Wilk | 4 | |||
6+ | ★ Kneeling Jesus
1
5-
2
6+
3
6+
PA: Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm & Nils.J Vagner, 2003 | 95m, 3 | |||
6+ | ★ Kom igjen for Helvete
PA: Jonas Tetlie & Kurt Kristiansen, 2000 | 8 | |||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika
1
7
30m
2
7
50m
3
7+/8-
20m
La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall. The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection. 2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.
Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels. NB- Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top. PA: Charlie Long & Rune Harjo Jensen, 2019 | 100m, 3, 10 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Rørvika The Rock and Roll Ridge | |||||
3 | ★★ The Rock and Roll Ridge
| ||||
4+ | Nordfjellet Traverse
It´s possible to continue from rock and roll ridge up to Nordfjellet. Routefinding & loose rock are the real crux so a short rope plus gear to rig rappels is advisable. From the summit, continue down the ridge towards the glomtinden hiking trail. | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||
5 | Losing my religion
| ||||
6- | Happy Campers
| ||||
6- | Moody Blue
| ||||
5 | ★ Queen of Rock 'n' Roll
| ||||
7- | King of Rock 'n' Roll
| ||||
6- | ★★★ Tom Jones
| ||||
6 | BB King was Wrong (the Thrill isn't Gone)
| ||||
6 | Fugledansen
| ||||
5+ | Venus Passagen
| ||||
5+ | `Ny 2021 ruta´
Starts just right of the established lines. | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Rørvika Lower Wall | |||||
5+ | ★ Jerry Lee
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Trond Solberg, 1994 | 35m | |||
7- | ★★ Sticky Fingers
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1993 | 40m | |||
7 | ★★★ Elvis
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold & Jimmy Halvardsson, 1996 | 40m | |||
6 | Hellstinky state of mind
This finger crack in the LF corner is attractive but somewhat difficult PA: Philip C & Kjetil H. Andersen, Oct 2019 | 25m | |||
6- | ★★ Hun hater meg, det liker jeg!
Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 2 Oct 2019 | 35m | |||
5 | ★ Jeg håper Scottys hus brenner ned
From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit. PA: Vegard With Stennes & Philip C, 2 Oct 2019 | 35m | |||
5 | Røyskatten
Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen. PA: Kjetil Andersen & Philip C, 7 Oct 2019 | 30m | |||
5+ | ★ Høstdrømmen
The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit. PA: Philip C & Vegard With Stennes, 2 Oct 2019 | 30m | |||
4 | BOB
The low angled left trending finger crack. When the initial crack ends trend right then straight up to a tree belay PA: Philip C & Kjetil Andersen, 7 Oct 2019 | 30m | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Sørfjellet | |||||
9- | ★★★ Minnerisset
This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten. It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019. If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1". As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line. Some images here: View this post on Instagram PA: Robert Caspersen, 2002 | 28m | |||
6 | ★ Tyngre enn du tror
1
4+
2
4
3
6
4
5+
PA: Leif Gunnar Bradal & Øyvind Haug, 2007 | 4 | |||
4+ | ★ Ladies Jigsaw
1
4+
20m
2
4+
40m
3
4+
25m
4
3
25m
5
3
25m
PA: Pauline Bird & Donna Thompson, 2000 | 140m, 5 | |||
5- | ★ Sauegjerderyggen
PA: Ulf Prytz & Arild Meyer | ||||
5+ | ★ Luke Skywalker
1
5
35m
2
5+
30m
PA: Thorbjørn Enevold, 1993 PA: Johan Sandberg & Truls Seines, 1993 | 65m, 2 | |||
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Housewives | |||||
8- | ★★ Loose Crusin
1
8-
2
6+
PA: Carl Granlund & Morgan Sahlen, Ag 2015 | 2 | |||
7- | ★★★ Housewives
Criminally under climbed, this is one of the best road side finger cracks in the North. PA: Fredrik Rapp & Martin Jakobsson, 2011 PA: Carl Granlund, Mayo 2016 | 30m, 2 | |||
6+ | ★ Home boy
PA: Martin Jakobsson & Fredrik Rapp, 2011 | ||||
Lofoten Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||
4 | ★★ Pedersenryggen
The Maurpillaren to Sjørfjellet ridge. Mostly easy alpine style scrambling with some exposed sections. There´s 2 rapps, both 30m & both from fixed nuts & slings. It´s possibe to continue traversing all the way to Nordryggen (up to N6-, 2 x 60m ropes needed). View this post on Instagram PA: Tom Pedersen | ||||
6 | Kjærlighetens kjøtere
1
5-
30m
2
6
35m
3
6-
30m
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Arild Meyer, 1996 | 95m | |||
6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie
1
5-
25m
2
6-
25m
3
6
12m
4
6+
10m
PA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Neils Poulsen, 1995 | 72m, 4 |