Routes as trad in Nordland

Description and topo available

Descent follows the SE ridge in the direction of Vinstad.

A serious and sandbagged line with a death pitch up high and some difficult route finding. Not recommended. Topo here

Some images here:

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More images and brief desription

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here

Topo here

A serious and sandbagged line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards. Not recommended. Topo here

Images here:

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1. Up the corner on jugs then slabs to a grassy crack. Belay at a good stance below grassy ledges. A long pitch with some short runouts at the beginning.

2. Out left from the grassy ledge & into the base of a left to right corner system. 5/10m of easy stuff then head out onto the arête where there´s a short sequence of hard moves. Continue until reaching a band of darker rock. Step right here to a small stance at the base of a dihedral.

3. Steep finger jamming up the diherdral. Belay at good stance in a corner. An excellent pitch

4. Straight up (loose) then out right where a short steep section gains the terrace.

5. Ignore the guidebook and go straight up the clean crack to a good ledge.

6. Rock quality deteriorates from here. There´s a comfy belay ledge 20m past the roof.

7. More of the same to another big ledge on the corner.

8. Og igjen..

> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on NBT

Some images-

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One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6.

Perhaps the most popular route to the summit

The direct finish to Första approximationen

On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.

Descent:

follow the south ridge until the Helvetestinden pass and down a gully to the Kirkefjord

Topo here

Topo here

Topo here

Topo here. Be prepared to run it out at the grade for sections on the 2/3 crux pitches. Some big cams nice to have for the rest of the climb. A description and some images of the route can be found here

There are topos here and here. The first ascentionists recommend taking a #6 to protect the pitch 5 off width.

A description and some images of the route can be found here

Topo here.

Description here

A topo & some images available here

A description & topo available here

On the North Face of Moltbaertinden North Peak. Description & topo available

Descent:

two rappels until the north ridge. Follow the ridge to the north and down a large gully between Moltbaertinden and Breiflogtinden.

Shared start with One Hundred Years Later on the grassy slopes above a leaning pillar. All stances are bolted.

One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.

1. Easy scrambling up the leaning pillar.

2. Trends gently right up middle of slab to a small ledge. Bit runout in places but safe.

3. Some more of the same slab off the belay, passing a bolt (no hanger) to a finger crack. Gear belay (bolt there; Has no hanger).

4. The crux of the route. 5 bolts protect a powerful sequence (can be done A0) into some technical slab work. Semi hanging belay with one bolt in a corner below the perfect splitter.

5. Climb the splitter to a DBB (some signs of corrosion on these bolts).

6. Traverse out right into an akward, slightly vegetated crack. Traverse left when you pass the roof via slabs with underclings to access the next crack system. Climb up this to a DBB. It may be worth splitting this pitch in 2.

7. Continue up the crack. When this ends a bolt protects moves left into the next system & up to another DBB.

8. Climb the remaining crack system to a DBB under the roof.

9. Underclings right under the roof then up the corner. A low angled ramp leads up to a DBB.

10. Easy scrambling up the corner to the base of the chimney.

11. Chimney challenge then grassy slopes up to the clean looking flakes.

12. Climb the flakes then scramble left to belay at the base of the large detached flake.

13. Squirm your way up then a couple of face climbing moves to gain LF corner. Follow this up to a big ledge with a single bolt. A bit vegetated.

14. Take the handcrack in the corner then scramble to the top.

Some images here-

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Description and topo available here:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214814/Breiflogtinden-East-Face-Arctic-Odyssey

Bold slab climbing. There´s a topo here.

AAC article with a description here

Follow the obvious crack up the inside corner. Easy to protect. Beware the thin flake.

Follow the crack to the right and climb the arete til the top.

Make a big step over the water and climb "right on the Edge".

The traverse of the Gimsøy skyline is a fine tour for running/hiking in the summer. Begin via the Storknubben hiking trail then from the Summit continue East along the U-shaped ridges before eventually descending via NW slope of Skjolden. There are a couple of short technical sections which slow things down. Allow a half day for hiking or 3/4 hours for running.

A GPX file and photos available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4016851045

The left roof crack

The right roof crack

Mixed line. Shares lower-off with Rutger Hauer.

A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. A nice introduction to Lofoten rock offering good jamming and slab climbing, large belay ledges & with the exception of P1, bolted belays.

The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes.

1. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof.

2. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m, then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge.

3. Traverse right then over a bulge, following this crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge.

4. Easier climbing straight up, then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay.

5. Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly left to bolted belay at a small stance.

Some images here-

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La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall. The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection. 2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.

1. Technical stemming pitch, small, good gear. Bolted belay. Scramble left to base of P2

2. The enduro pitch. Bolted belay on top of pillar (this pitch is recommended as one pitch ledge to ledge but can be split at the intermediate rap anchor, hanging belay). 2 x #4 plus a #5 & #6 are nice to have.

3. Technical slab work up the ramp to the top of the wall. Bring micro cams (green & purple C3) for after the last bolt. Bolted belay

Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels.

NB- Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top.

It´s possible to continue from rock and roll ridge up to Nordfjellet. Routefinding & loose rock are the real crux so a short rope plus gear to rig rappels is advisable.

From the summit, continue down the ridge towards the glomtinden hiking trail.

Starts just right of the established lines.

This finger crack in the LF corner is attractive but somewhat difficult

Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit.

The low angled left trending finger crack. When the initial crack ends trend right then straight up to a tree belay

This unmissable overhanging roof crack is the first route you´ll see when driving into Henningsvær. Put up & named by Robert Caspersen after his brothers (Pål Espen) tragic death on Presten.

It´s one of the hardest lines on the islands but was on-sighted by Pete Whittaker in 2019.

If you´re not a Pete Whittaker type, with easy access & good protection, it´s probably your best candidate for an 8a trad project. Consider quadruple cams from 0.5 to 1".

As of 2021, fixed equipment has been installed before the mantle, presumably to facilitate working/cleaning the route. The mantle is no gimmie & is part of the original line.

Some images here:

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Criminally under climbed, this is one of the best road side finger cracks in the North.

The Maurpillaren to Sjørfjellet ridge. Mostly easy alpine style scrambling with some exposed sections. There´s 2 rapps, both 30m & both from fixed nuts & slings.

It´s possibe to continue traversing all the way to Nordryggen (up to N6-, 2 x 60m ropes needed).

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