Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Mié 29.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Morena | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Pinchcliffe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Tricky topout, needed some refinements
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6A+ ~6A | Cowboysträck | ||||||
6B in topo, but even 6A+ seems a bit too much
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6C | ★ Moreno | ||||||
Seems doable, but too weak fingers
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Mié 29.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Low | |||||||
4+ | Fyrglo | 5m | |||||
Easy but a bit too high for my taste
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Lun 27.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder | |||||||
6B | Windswell | ||||||
Felt pretty soft compared to the other stuff around
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5+ | Sunset | ||||||
Nasty topout, luckily lots of sand as crashpad replacement
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5 | ★★ Not how to surf | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Nice powerful crack, decided for whale-style topout
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder | |||||||
4 | At least I can swim | ||||||
Bouldering in the sunset on a white beach Water a bit chilly, though
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Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Moksnesøya Kvalvika Oceanside | |||||||
5B | Nameless #4 | ||||||
Stiff, stiff, like all problems here...
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Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Strandveggen | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Strandveggen | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Tricky to climb during high tide, almost lost my crashpad to the sea
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Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B | |||||||
6A | ★★ Meyers gamasjer | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Finally no snow anymore and t-shirt weather is there
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Mar 20.º Feb 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Høyre linje | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!
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Mié 25.º Oct 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Reidar Sjuse — 9 intentos | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
foot hold on first crux has now brocken, is posibal that it is easyier now
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7-/7 | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - con caitlin | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
One to come back for
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Gullfaks - con caitlin, will | 20m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Had one attempt and got clean to the roof. Would be good to come back and work the top and then go for the sendy send!
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6c/c+ Duro | ★★ Ildvann — 2 intentos - con caitlin, will | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Crux is cruxy and hard for hobbits
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- | ★★ Apa - con Sydney | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Ayers Rock - con Caitlin, Will | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Automatic for the People - con Caitlin, Will | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch
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6- | ★★★ Tom Jones - con Caitlin, Will | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses - con Caitlin | 90m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - con Caitlin | 95m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - con caitlin | 20m | Medio | ||||
Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Gaukerisset - con caitlin | 65m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.
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Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Fire forsøk - con Caitlin | 80m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous
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Dom 20.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ Buena | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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Vie 18.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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Vie 18.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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Mié 16.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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Lun 14.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★ Buena | ||||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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Dom 13.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 intentos | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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Sáb 12.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 intentos | 15m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | ★ Buena | ||||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | ★ Buena | ||||
Good sequences following Dave
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Vie 11.º Ag 2023 - Vesterålen | |||||||
Trollskåla Overhenget | |||||||
5 | ★★ Dieder | 16m, 7 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least
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Vie 11.º Ag 2023 - Vesterålen | |||||||
Trollskåla Venstre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Sofaruta | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
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6a+ | Obelix | 25m | Medio | ||||
Grade 20. Stupid finish.
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6a | ★ Mye botanikk | 15m, 7 | ★ Buena | ||||
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
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Jue 10.º Ag 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Store veggen | |||||||
5+ A0 | ★★ Senterlinje | 200m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good
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Jue 10.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - con Luzia B. | 480m | |||||
Amazing route!
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Mié 9.º Ag 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | |||||||
6 | ★ Holoholahoy | 15m | |||||
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
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7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 intentos | 9m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
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6- | ★ Jepperuta | 18m | ★ Buena | ||||
Some steep but good holds
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | ★ Buena | ||||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main B | |||||||
7- | Trim de eldre — 2 intentos | 15m | |||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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6 | ★ Langtrur | 25m, 21 | ★ Buena | ||||
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
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Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main C | |||||||
6 | ★ Dr. Bruce Banner | 7m | ★ Buena | ||||
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy
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Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Brattberget | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 intentos | 14m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
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6- | ★ Batman | 13m | ★ Buena | ||||
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
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6+ | Ironman | 12m | Medio | ||||
The good bit is quite short
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Dom 6.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main C | |||||||
6 | ★ Flygende C | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
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6+ | ★★ Hulken | 9m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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Dom 6.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main west | |||||||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | ★ Buena | ||||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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6+ | ★ St. Peter | 14m | ★ Buena | ||||
Nice roof to start
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5 | Oljeberget | 25m | |||||
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.
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7- | ★ Himmelspretten P1 | 9m | ★ Buena | ||||
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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Vie 4.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6c Duro | ★★ Ildvann - con Håkon | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great warm up route.
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7b+ | ★★★ Commando - con Håkon, Yngve, Stian Bruvoll | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
3 sessions attempting to be a sport climber. No send
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Jue 3.º Ag 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Ersfjorden | |||||||
6 | ★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen | 20m, 9 | ★ Buena | ||||
Interesting slab and corner
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6a | ★ Sjarmøren | 12m, 8 | ★ Buena | ||||
Short but nice
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6b | ★★ Sekspress | 20m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Quite fun and great views
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5c | ★ Prinsessa | 20m | ★ Buena | ||||
Interesting and quite steep.
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Mar 1.º Ag 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Vårrusen | 150m | |||||
Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.
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5+ | ★ Gallionsruta | 250m | |||||
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.
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6- | ★★ Stjerndans | 150m | |||||
Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.
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7+ | ★★★ Thanatos | 220m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.
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Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | |||||
With Lenja end Benno. Ended in Rain:D
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Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - con Pat | 160m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
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Vie 28.º Jul 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Brensholmen Psykologveggen | |||||||
6 | ★ Akrofobi | 26m | ★ Buena | ||||
Interesting route on some large quartz holds
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Vie 28.º Jul 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Brensholmen Panoramaveggen | |||||||
7- ~6b+ | ★★ Psycho I — 2 intentos | 15m, 5 | |||||
Nails crux, felt more 22 +, given N 7- in local guide. Nice moves, some flaky flakes
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6a | ★★ Nesheim-ruta | 15m | ★ Buena | ||||
Seems the main route now on head wall
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6a | ★★ Panorama cafe | 43m, 15 | ★ Buena | ||||
Over 35m, pitch one is 30 m, pitch 2 about 15 m. The top bolt bracket is missing but easy to step right into adjacent line for finish anyway
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Jue 27.º Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | |||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | |||||||
4+ | Freya | 57m | Medio | ||||
Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.
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5+ | ★ Hilda | 54m | ★ Buena | ||||
Had to get the final route in before we left. Small climbing world, ran into expat kiwi Rick Macgregor, responsible for many fine Kiwi and Australian FAs.
Unfortunately the route has a couple of chips. The crag was the ultimate in consumer climbing, not something to emulate back home.
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Jue 27.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- ~5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
P2 is more like 20m, so P1/P2 could be linked with a 50m rope.
B4, B5 & B6 are bolted.
It´s possible to climb right after P5 to the abseil line (1 bolt). Better don‘t rappel from the belay: there are most likely peoply below and apparently it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flakes.
P6 is poorly protectable in the beginning, then ok. It‘s nice climbing.
P5 is absolutely amazing.
We didn‘t climb P7.
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Mié 26.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - con Pat | 600m | ★ Buena | ||||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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Mié 26.º Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | |||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | |||||||
6- | Hrafn | 65m | |||||
Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad
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5+ | ★★ Sondre | 52m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Nice climb, dave ran both pitches together
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5+ | ★ Tiril | 55m | ★ Buena | ||||
Ran both pitches together
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Mar 25.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Apa - con Ola | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.
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Mar 25.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - con Pat | 100m, 10 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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Mar 25.º Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | |||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | |||||||
5+ | ★ Viking | 65m | ★ Buena | ||||
First pitch only
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5+ | ★★ Frigg | 65m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Probably my favourite of the five
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5- | ★ Thor | 65m | ★ Buena | ||||
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car
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Lun 24.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Skiløperen - con Ola | 40m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!
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Lun 24.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Gaukerisset
- con
Ola
1
3+
20
2
6-
45
| 65m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.
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Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 intentos - con Ola | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!
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Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - con Ola | ★ Buena | |||||
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!
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Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - con Francesco Mancino | 20m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Rappelled in from the top on gear anchor, 40m rope.
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Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Firts belay a bit earlier bc of the loose rock.
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Sáb 22.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
- con
Ola
1
4
35m
2
4+
20m
3
4+
20m
led part of it.
4
4+
30m
| 110m | ★ Buena | ||||
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.
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Sáb 22.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
4+ | ★★★ Nordryggen - con Ola | 510m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.
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