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Ascensiones en Northern Norway teniendo Beta

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Mostrando 1 - 100 de 358 ascensiones.

Grado Vía Estilo de equipamiento Calidad Escalador
Mié 29.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Vestvågøy Smorten Morena
5+ Pinchcliffe Búlder Muy buena
Anderl
Tricky topout, needed some refinements

 
6A+ ~6A Cowboysträck Búlder
Anderl
6B in topo, but even 6A+ seems a bit too much

 
6C Moreno Búlder
Anderl
Seems doable, but too weak fingers

 
Mié 29.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Vestvågøy Smorten Low
4+ Fyrglo Búlder 5m
Anderl
Easy but a bit too high for my taste

 
Lun 27.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder
6B Windswell Búlder
Anderl
Felt pretty soft compared to the other stuff around

 
5+ Sunset Búlder
Anderl
Nasty topout, luckily lots of sand as crashpad replacement

 
5 Not how to surf Búlder Muy buena
Anderl
Nice powerful crack, decided for whale-style topout

 
Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder
4 At least I can swim Búlder
Anderl
Bouldering in the sunset on a white beach Water a bit chilly, though

 
Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Moksnesøya Kvalvika Oceanside
5B Nameless #4 Búlder
Anderl
Stiff, stiff, like all problems here...

 
Jue 23.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Strandveggen
5+ Strandveggen Búlder Muy buena
Anderl
Tricky to climb during high tide, almost lost my crashpad to the sea

 
Mié 22.º Mayo 2024 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B
6A Meyers gamasjer Búlder Muy buena
Anderl
Finally no snow anymore and t-shirt weather is there

 
Mar 20.º Feb 2024 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Lyngvær
WI4 Høyre linje Hielo Clásico
Vincent
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!

 
Mié 25.º Oct 2023 - Lofoten
Vestvågøy Eggum
7c Reidar Sjuse — 9 intentos Deportiva Muy buena
Andreas Marthinsen
foot hold on first crux has now brocken, is posibal that it is easyier now

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
7-/7 Djupfjord sprickan - con caitlin Clásica 20m Muy buena
Mackenzie
One to come back for

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Vestvågøy Eggum
7a+ Gullfaks - con caitlin, will Deportiva 20m Clásico
Mackenzie
Had one attempt and got clean to the roof. Would be good to come back and work the top and then go for the sendy send!

 
6c/c+ Duro Ildvann — 2 intentos - con caitlin, will Deportiva 15m Muy buena
Mackenzie
Crux is cruxy and hard for hobbits

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa
6- Apa - con Sydney Clásica 15m Muy buena
Mackenzie
Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise
6+ Ayers Rock - con Caitlin, Will Clásica 20m Muy buena
Mackenzie
Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall
6a Automatic for the People - con Caitlin, Will Deportiva 45m, 11 Clásico
Mackenzie
Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch

 
6- Tom Jones - con Caitlin, Will Clásica Clásico
Mackenzie
Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6- Guns n' Roses - con Caitlin Clásica 90m Clásico
Mackenzie
Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!

 
6 Tromsø ekspressen - con Caitlin Clásica 95m Muy buena
Mackenzie
I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret
6+ Svenske Diedret - con caitlin Clásica 20m Medio
Mackenzie
Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg
6- Gaukerisset - con caitlin Clásica 65m Clásico
Mackenzie
Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.

 
Lun 4.º Sep 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg
7- Fire forsøk - con Caitlin Clásica 80m Muy buena
Mackenzie
Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous

 
Dom 20.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita
6+ Englevinger Clásica mixta 85m, 1 Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3

 
5 Rapellruta Clásica 48m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.

 
Vie 18.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
5+ Lys og Skygge Clásica 60m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them

 
5+ Appelcake Arete Clásica 60m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb

 
Vie 18.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Presten Presten
6 Vestpillaren Clásica 480m Megaclásica
Vanessa Wills
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day

 
Mié 16.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika
6b Bormeister Fausa Deportiva 22m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.

 
6a+ Drømmen om Michaela Deportiva 20m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Much easier when we got on the right route.

 
6c/c+ Mono Bongo Deportiva 20m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.

 
5c Fjell og vidde klatring Deportiva 15m Buena
Vanessa Wills
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like

 
Lun 14.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6 Tromsø ekspressen Clásica 95m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.

 
6 Gamle rev Clásica 110m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.

 
Dom 13.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret
6+ Svenske Diedret — 2 intentos Clásica 20m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.

 
6 R Love Me Two Times Clásica 20m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock

 
Sáb 12.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen
7 Snickar glädje — 2 intentos Clásica 15m Clásico
Vanessa Wills
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

 
6- Blåklokka Clásica 14m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack

 
6 Frøken Sverige Clásica 14m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Good sequences following Dave

 
Vie 11.º Ag 2023 - Vesterålen
Trollskåla Overhenget
5 Dieder Deportiva 16m, 7 Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least

 
Vie 11.º Ag 2023 - Vesterålen
Trollskåla Venstre
5 Sofaruta Deportiva 12m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep

 
6a+ Obelix Deportiva 25m Medio
Vanessa Wills
Grade 20. Stupid finish.

 
6a Mye botanikk Deportiva 15m, 7 Buena
Vanessa Wills
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.

 
Jue 10.º Ag 2023 - Ofoten
Narvik Haugfjellet Store veggen
5+ A0 Senterlinje Clásica 200m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good

 
Jue 10.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Presten Presten
6 Vestpillaren - con Luzia B. Clásica 480m
Wille Cederberg
Amazing route!

 
Mié 9.º Ag 2023 - Ofoten
Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen
6 Holoholahoy Deportiva 15m
Vanessa Wills
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…

 
6+ Escalade feminine Deportiva 10m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.

 
7 Den Lille — 2 intentos Deportiva 9m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky

 
6- Jepperuta Deportiva 18m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Some steep but good holds

 
7 ~7- Adjöss och tack för fisken Deportiva 18m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.

 
Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen
Main B
7- Trim de eldre — 2 intentos Deportiva 15m
Vanessa Wills
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.

 
6 Langtrur Deportiva 25m, 21 Buena
Vanessa Wills
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous

 
Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen
Main C
6 Dr. Bruce Banner Deportiva 7m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy

 
Lun 7.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen
Brattberget
7+ Trusa på utsida — 2 intentos Deportiva 14m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!

 
6- Batman Deportiva 13m Buena
Vanessa Wills
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul

 
6+ Ironman Deportiva 12m Medio
Vanessa Wills
The good bit is quite short

 
Dom 6.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen
Main C
6 Flygende C Deportiva 12m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived

 
6+ Hulken Deportiva 9m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.

 
Dom 6.º Ag 2023 - Himmeldalen
Main west
7 St. Pavel Deportiva 25m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka

 
6+ St. Peter Deportiva 14m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Nice roof to start

 
5 Oljeberget Deportiva 25m
Vanessa Wills
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.

 
7- Himmelspretten P1 Deportiva 9m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun

 
Vie 4.º Ag 2023 - Lofoten
Vestvågøy Eggum
6c Duro Ildvann - con Håkon Deportiva 15m Muy buena
Philip C
Great warm up route.

 
7b+ Commando - con Håkon, Yngve, Stian Bruvoll Deportiva Clásico
Philip C
3 sessions attempting to be a sport climber. No send

 
Jue 3.º Ag 2023 - Tromsø
Kvaløya Ersfjorden
6 På sva er vi alle trist som faen Deportiva 20m, 9 Buena
Vanessa Wills
Interesting slab and corner

 
6a Sjarmøren Deportiva 12m, 8 Buena
Vanessa Wills
Short but nice

 
6b Sekspress Deportiva 20m, 10 Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Quite fun and great views

 
5c Prinsessa Clásica 20m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Interesting and quite steep.

 
Mar 1.º Ag 2023 - Tromsø
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen
5- Vårrusen Clásica 150m
Vanessa Wills
Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.

 
5+ Gallionsruta Clásica 250m
Vanessa Wills
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.

 
6- Stjerndans Clásica 150m
Vanessa Wills
Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.

 
7+ Thanatos Clásica 220m Megaclásica
Vanessa Wills
Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.

 
Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
4+ Pianohandler Lunds Rute Clásica 110m
Skrei
With Lenja end Benno. Ended in Rain:D

 
Dom 30.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset
8- Lofoten reality - con Pat Clásica 160m Megaclásica
Philip C
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches

 
Vie 28.º Jul 2023 - Tromsø
Kvaløya Brensholmen Psykologveggen
6 Akrofobi Deportiva 26m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Interesting route on some large quartz holds

 
Vie 28.º Jul 2023 - Tromsø
Kvaløya Brensholmen Panoramaveggen
7- ~6b+ Psycho I — 2 intentos Deportiva 15m, 5
Vanessa Wills
Nails crux, felt more 22 +, given N 7- in local guide. Nice moves, some flaky flakes

 
6a Nesheim-ruta Deportiva 15m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Seems the main route now on head wall

 
6a Panorama cafe Deportiva 43m, 15 Buena
Vanessa Wills
Over 35m, pitch one is 30 m, pitch 2 about 15 m. The top bolt bracket is missing but easy to step right into adjacent line for finish anyway

 
Jue 27.º Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms
Senja Ørnfjord
4+ Freya Clásica 57m Medio
Vanessa Wills
Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.

 
5+ Hilda Deportiva 54m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Had to get the final route in before we left. Small climbing world, ran into expat kiwi Rick Macgregor, responsible for many fine Kiwi and Australian FAs. Unfortunately the route has a couple of chips. The crag was the ultimate in consumer climbing, not something to emulate back home.

 
Jue 27.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær
5- ~5- Bare Blåbær Clásica 250m Megaclásica
_.y.w._
P2 is more like 20m, so P1/P2 could be linked with a 50m rope. B4, B5 & B6 are bolted. It´s possible to climb right after P5 to the abseil line (1 bolt). Better don‘t rappel from the belay: there are most likely peoply below and apparently it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flakes. P6 is poorly protectable in the beginning, then ok. It‘s nice climbing. P5 is absolutely amazing. We didn‘t climb P7.

 
Mié 26.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m)
7- ~6- The King Has Spoken - con Pat Clásica 600m Buena
Philip C
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right

 
Mié 26.º Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms
Senja Ørnfjord
6- Hrafn Clásica 65m
Vanessa Wills
Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad

 
5+ Sondre Deportiva 52m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Nice climb, dave ran both pitches together

 
5+ Tiril Deportiva 55m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Ran both pitches together

 
Mar 25.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa
6- ~6 Apa - con Ola Clásica 15m Muy buena
Francesco Mancino
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.

 
Mar 25.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Lyngvær
7+/8- La Vida Joika - con Pat Clásica mixta 100m, 10 Muy buena
Philip C
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2

 
Mar 25.º Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms
Senja Ørnfjord
5+ Viking Deportiva 65m Buena
Vanessa Wills
First pitch only

 
5+ Frigg Deportiva 65m Muy buena
Vanessa Wills
Probably my favourite of the five

 
5- Thor Deportiva 65m Buena
Vanessa Wills
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car

 
Lun 24.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg
6- Skiløperen - con Ola Clásica 40m Clásico
Francesco Mancino
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!

 
Lun 24.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg
6- Gaukerisset - con Ola
1 3+ 20 De segundo
2 6- 45 Clásica
Clásica 65m Muy buena
Francesco Mancino
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.

 
Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret
6+ Svenske Diedret — 2 intentos - con Ola Clásica 20m Muy buena
Francesco Mancino
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!

 
Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms
5+ Cant believe its not butter - con Ola Clásica Buena
Francesco Mancino
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!

 
Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise
5 Living in Paradise - con Francesco Mancino Clásica 20m Muy buena
Ola
Rappelled in from the top on gear anchor, 40m rope.

 
Dom 23.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
5 Gandalf Clásica 100m Clásico
_.y.w._
Firts belay a bit earlier bc of the loose rock.

 
Sáb 22.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
4+ Pianohandler Lunds Rute - con Ola
1 4 35m De segundo
2 4+ 20m Clásica
3 4+ 20m De segundo

led part of it.

4 4+ 30m Clásica
Clásica 110m Buena
Francesco Mancino
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.

 
Sáb 22.º Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Vågakallen
4+ Nordryggen - con Ola Clásica 510m Clásico
Francesco Mancino
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.

 

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