Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 29th May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Morena | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Pinchcliffe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tricky topout, needed some refinements
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6A+ ~6A | Cowboysträck | ||||||
6B in topo, but even 6A+ seems a bit too much
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6C | ★ Moreno | ||||||
Seems doable, but too weak fingers
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Wed 29th May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Smorten Low | |||||||
4+ | Fyrglo | 5m | |||||
Easy but a bit too high for my taste
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Mon 27th May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder | |||||||
6B | Windswell | ||||||
Felt pretty soft compared to the other stuff around
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5+ | Sunset | ||||||
Nasty topout, luckily lots of sand as crashpad replacement
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5 | ★★ Not how to surf | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice powerful crack, decided for whale-style topout
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Flakstadøya Ramberg The boulders Beach boulder | |||||||
4 | At least I can swim | ||||||
Bouldering in the sunset on a white beach Water a bit chilly, though
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Moksnesøya Kvalvika Oceanside | |||||||
5B | Nameless #4 | ||||||
Stiff, stiff, like all problems here...
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Thu 23rd May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Uttakleiv Syd Strandveggen | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Strandveggen | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Tricky to climb during high tide, almost lost my crashpad to the sea
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B | |||||||
6A | ★★ Meyers gamasjer | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Finally no snow anymore and t-shirt weather is there
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Høyre linje | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Reidar Sjuse — 9 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
foot hold on first crux has now brocken, is posibal that it is easyier now
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7-/7 | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - with caitlin | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One to come back for
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Gullfaks - with caitlin, will | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had one attempt and got clean to the roof. Would be good to come back and work the top and then go for the sendy send!
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6c/c+ Hard | ★★ Ildvann — 2 attempts - with caitlin, will | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux is cruxy and hard for hobbits
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- | ★★ Apa - with Sydney | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Ayers Rock - with Caitlin, Will | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Automatic for the People - with Caitlin, Will | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch
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6- | ★★★ Tom Jones - with Caitlin, Will | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses - with Caitlin | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Caitlin | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - with caitlin | 20m | Average | ||||
Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Gaukerisset - with caitlin | 65m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Caitlin | 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ Good | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★ Good | ||||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Good sequences following Dave
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | |||||||
Trollskåla Overhenget | |||||||
5 | ★★ Dieder | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Doesn’t climb much like a dihedral, lovely wave pocketed rock, grade 18 at least
|
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Vesterålen | |||||||
Trollskåla Venstre | |||||||
5 | ★★ Sofaruta | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Grade 17, very 3D and quite steep
|
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6a+ | Obelix | 25m | Average | ||||
Grade 20. Stupid finish.
|
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6a | ★ Mye botanikk | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
The grade conversion seems out here, 19.
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Store veggen | |||||||
5+ A0 | ★★ Senterlinje | 200m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good
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Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Luzia B. | 480m | |||||
Amazing route!
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | |||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | |||||||
6 | ★ Holoholahoy | 15m | |||||
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
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7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
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6- | ★ Jepperuta | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Some steep but good holds
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main B | |||||||
7- | Trim de eldre — 2 attempts | 15m | |||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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6 | ★ Langtrur | 25m, 21 | ★ Good | ||||
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main C | |||||||
6 | ★ Dr. Bruce Banner | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy
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Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Brattberget | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 attempts | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
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6- | ★ Batman | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
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6+ | Ironman | 12m | Average | ||||
The good bit is quite short
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main C | |||||||
6 | ★ Flygende C | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
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6+ | ★★ Hulken | 9m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | |||||||
Main west | |||||||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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6+ | ★ St. Peter | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice roof to start
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5 | Oljeberget | 25m | |||||
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.
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7- | ★ Himmelspretten P1 | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Vestvågøy Eggum | |||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Ildvann - with Håkon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warm up route.
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7b+ | ★★★ Commando - with Håkon, Yngve, Stian Bruvoll | ★★★ Classic | |||||
3 sessions attempting to be a sport climber. No send
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Ersfjorden | |||||||
6 | ★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting slab and corner
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6a | ★ Sjarmøren | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Short but nice
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6b | ★★ Sekspress | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite fun and great views
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5c | ★ Prinsessa | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting and quite steep.
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Tue 1st Aug 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen | |||||||
5- | ★★★ Vårrusen | 150m | |||||
Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.
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5+ | ★ Gallionsruta | 250m | |||||
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.
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6- | ★★ Stjerndans | 150m | |||||
Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.
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7+ | ★★★ Thanatos | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | |||||
With Lenja end Benno. Ended in Rain:D
|
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - with Pat | 160m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
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Fri 28th Jul 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Brensholmen Psykologveggen | |||||||
6 | ★ Akrofobi | 26m | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting route on some large quartz holds
|
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Fri 28th Jul 2023 - Tromsø | |||||||
Kvaløya Brensholmen Panoramaveggen | |||||||
7- ~6b+ | ★★ Psycho I — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | |||||
Nails crux, felt more 22 +, given N 7- in local guide. Nice moves, some flaky flakes
|
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6a | ★★ Nesheim-ruta | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Seems the main route now on head wall
|
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6a | ★★ Panorama cafe | 43m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Over 35m, pitch one is 30 m, pitch 2 about 15 m. The top bolt bracket is missing but easy to step right into adjacent line for finish anyway
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | |||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | |||||||
4+ | Freya | 57m | Average | ||||
Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.
|
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5+ | ★ Hilda | 54m | ★ Good | ||||
Had to get the final route in before we left. Small climbing world, ran into expat kiwi Rick Macgregor, responsible for many fine Kiwi and Australian FAs.
Unfortunately the route has a couple of chips. The crag was the ultimate in consumer climbing, not something to emulate back home.
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- ~5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
P2 is more like 20m, so P1/P2 could be linked with a 50m rope.
B4, B5 & B6 are bolted.
It´s possible to climb right after P5 to the abseil line (1 bolt). Better don‘t rappel from the belay: there are most likely peoply below and apparently it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flakes.
P6 is poorly protectable in the beginning, then ok. It‘s nice climbing.
P5 is absolutely amazing.
We didn‘t climb P7.
|
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - with Pat | 600m | ★ Good | ||||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
|
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | |||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | |||||||
6- | Hrafn | 65m | |||||
Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad
|
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5+ | ★★ Sondre | 52m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb, dave ran both pitches together
|
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5+ | ★ Tiril | 55m | ★ Good | ||||
Ran both pitches together
|
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Apa - with Ola | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
|
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Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Sør-Troms | |||||||
Senja Ørnfjord | |||||||
5+ | ★ Viking | 65m | ★ Good | ||||
First pitch only
|
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5+ | ★★ Frigg | 65m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Probably my favourite of the five
|
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5- | ★ Thor | 65m | ★ Good | ||||
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car
|
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Skiløperen - with Ola | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!
|
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Gaukerisset
- with
Ola
1
3+
20
2
6-
45
| 65m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.
|
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts - with Ola | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!
|
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - with Ola | ★ Good | |||||
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!
|
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - with Francesco Mancino | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rappelled in from the top on gear anchor, 40m rope.
|
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Firts belay a bit earlier bc of the loose rock.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
- with
Ola
1
4
35m
2
4+
20m
3
4+
20m
led part of it.
4
4+
30m
| 110m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
4+ | ★★★ Nordryggen - with Ola | 510m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.
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