Vías en Oceania para grado seleccionado

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.

Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.

Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR.

The steep corner.

Start 6m R of Nero.

Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.

The arete, veering L.

Start: Start where the E face meets the N face.

Try and find this one, I dare you.

Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge.

Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!

The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.

Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

Finish up blunt arete.

Start: Start just R of WMWK.

Good face climbing past BR into crack.

Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right.

Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.

Steep groove, delicate slab. Start on the L end of Skydiver Wall, just L of a nose. Had a lower-off added around 2003 (which appears to have been removed).

Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.

Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.

Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.

Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).

The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.

Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).

More like a RHV than a separate route...

Start: Start as for CC.

A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.

Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'

solo

Start as for 'Daily Planet' then traverse L along break. Up past pocket to horizontal break. Stand up and move back R to finish up last moves on 'Daily Planet'. Lower off as for 'Daily Planet'.

The small arete with a bolt. Start R of LL.

Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.

Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.

Up the face with 1 BR. Start as for FB.

Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake. Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.

Start on wall R of DM. Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.

Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt. Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station.

Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing.

This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. Small wires (take extra #3 RPs) now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21. Start just right of Tannin. While sketching out with your modern gear, spare a thought for Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent which was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

A direct start to the first pitch of Humouresque. Start 2m R of H. Climb to the right of the first FH to ledge. Straight up passing 2nd FH to join H at the bottom of it's crack. The first few metres of this is a lovely hand crack, and when it deteriorates into grunge you can maintain the quality climbing by drifting R up the clean thin yellow line into the last few moves of Tremulo. A worthwhile 19ish variant is to skip the hard moves at the first bolt by starting up Tremulo.

Left to right over nose. Sit start.

Start at base of mossy ramp, climb easily to small roof. Follow small crackline to top on slim to no protection.

Up Jason then R along traverse line to Mind Games. Up MG for 4m, including it's crux, then further R to groove.

Start as for Mind Games. Up Mind Games for 4m, then step 1m L to take faint groove straight up.

The incipient corner/flake just left of Dylan has a scary start, especially since a key jug and gear block came off in 2016.

The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.

Sustained full value crack.

Start: Start 1m R of W.

The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.

Start: Start just R of HW.

The weakness just L of a pedestal.

Start: Start 5m L of S.

Start as for Megalomaniac. Up Megalomaniac a little, L to sickle crack, then over roof.

Start up Megalomaniac then move right and follow weakness, gear is a little fiddly at times, but there is plenty of it to keep you happy.

Sustained arete, ample gear but you need to be able to hang on to get it in. Start a few metres R of Electric Warrior. Step left into line then up and right at 10m.

Up to pin, step left then up headwall. Start in the gully right of UIMB, on the left wall.

Located on the level down and right of the Exodus ledge. Starts up poorly protected corner with hard climbing and poor rock to ledge. Continue up corner to roof, then exit right past bulge and then L to finish up arete.

The LH crack on the small pinnacle 20m further uphill from Reaper. On the L side of the Saraband pinnacle find a corner with some hollow sounding rock (alternatively, start one metre down the hill to access the short hand crack). Up this past some fantastic sidepulls, then aim for the LH crack which maintains interest to the top.

Spectacular. Start 3m R of The Sting. Use holds on arete to gain hanging corner and to ledge. Over roof to join crack and arete.

Directly up the wall.

Start: Start L of 'Scourge', and just R of the arete.

The start is desperate and poorly protected.

Start: Start on the L side of the arete, L of TGFoF.

Bit of a squeeze job that adds a direct finish to 'Not Like a Hurricane' Climb 'Not Like a Hurricane' past horizontal break and mantle onto ledge. Clip the bolt and continue up and slightly right to top.

Start as for 'Oh Bondage' for 5m, step right to a small thread, up past break to ledge, instead of mantling traverse right to jugs and your final gear before blasting straight up to finish.

Follow break across Starless to finish up arete.

Start: Start below LE.

Tackles the hanging corner on the left side of a narrow grey/black buttress (Cow Cragg) immediately left of Lawrence's second pitch.

Start at belay/rap station near the Lawrence traverse.

Gain the hanging corner as for Withnail and I. Continue up the obvious crack/seam in the wall above.

A varied route which parallels Lawrence to its right and features some interesting rock flutings.

The cruxes on this and the variation are runout on average gear and the rock is a little fragile in places.

Start at the first belay of Lawrence.

From the first belay of Lawrence climb a short right leading crack to a small stance. Climb the vague groove and buttress above passing the rap station for Forbidden Fruit on its left. Higher up the buttress narrows and is marked by a crack on its left. Climb the compact grey wall to its right to gain an atttractive orange groove near the top. Finish steeply on jugs and belay in a cosy niche.Scramble easily to the top of Dunes Buttress. A righthand variation was done at 21 by Ingvar which climbs the wall directly above the Forbidden Fruit anchors to rejoin the original route at the compact gray wall.

Definitely bold but the climbing is rubbish. Start at Arab's 2nd belay.

1. 15m (-) Climb the arete R of Arab's corner to a ledge.

2. 20m (21) Continue up the undercut arete, which gets rather runout.

The steep flakes up the middle of the short orange wall just R of Dunes pitch 2. Start at the first belay of Dunes.

Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall.

Up the diagonal crack of Meanderthal, then instead of traversing R continue up the arete.

Start left of cave. Follow the chalk into and out of the cave.

Start on the up hill end and traverse right all the way to the same top out as the jam slot

Rising traverse left, then up on spaced but good holds

Tenuous smooth wall just L of jugs

Described separately so that 'Poppies' gets more notice as a great 19. Start a few metres L of The Bard and climb direct up the slick blank slab to join 'Poppies'.

Start 2m R of the north arete of Bluff Minor (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major). Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of Bluff Minor. A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Start as for CD. Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start as for CD. Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trending R then L.

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

Jenny Wren, retro bolted, with direct start up the arete. This is the usual way to do the route these days.

Start as for BT.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt) - 1994-02-00

P1 (25m, -) Up BT for 22m then move 3m R to hanging belay.

P2 (25m, 21) Up to roof and scarily over it (you're 3m L of 'Time Out' at this point). Committing!

An eye catching and intimidating route. Quite a committing lead, but with good gear available if you have the skill. NB the tombstone block has now been made relatively safe (pinned).

Start: Start 2m R of K.

A variant start to 'Harrier'.from the left.

Start 3 metre right of 'Harrier'. Head diagonally left up smooth orange wall to join 'Harrier' at the bulge.

Great climbing in the first 25m - the rest is a bit dirty and easy, but OK climbing, and can be avoided by stepping back L to the DRB of Antiques Road Show. Start 8m L of Skylark. Up and a little L to a FH at 12m as for Antiques Road Show, then move up and R through the bulge about 4m R of the 2nd FH of Antiques Road Show. Continue straight up for 10m then step L to DRB unless you like the look of the very dirty 20m of moss above.

To avoid confusion - there are not 3 routes on this bit of wall. AR is a retro of the first 15m of this climb then Ab Fab comes in from the right and finishes up this climb to the Kestrel ledge.

The central line up the wall has a lot of good climbing. Can be done as one long pitch. The bolt tally is for the top pitch.

1. 25m Do 'Velvet Green', or Mother Brown.

2. 30m 21 Step left from belay and through the first overlap past FH as for Surfacing, step right and up into shallow corner then swing back left and pretty much straight up to rap anchor.

Climb the corner crack of 'Yo Yo' then continue directly up (rather than traversing R to the guano). Follow incipient crack directly up lichenous country to belay on ledge 2-3m L of Yo Yo's 3rd belay.

Start: Start at the 1st belay of 'Yo Yo'.

Two good pitches. The easy top of pitch one can be a bit dirty.

Start: Start 3 metres right of 'The Eighth Direct'.

1. 25m (20) Thin cracks up wall to bulge. Over bulge and slab to belay.

2. 15m (21) Thin face and step in overhang. Steeply up front of buttress. Easy traverse left to 'Nakablitz' rap-anchor.

The route starts from the big ledge at the end of Syrinx's 3rd pitch, about 7m R of Sunday Best.

1. 21 (40m) Climb straight up to a diagonal at half height. Step left onto the smooth orange rock to a bolt. Continue up past 2 more bolts to break through the roof about 2m L of Headbanger at 4th bolt. Probably 20 for taller climbers.

Hard moves down low and glorious rock on the headwall. Could be done in one pitch but the cruxes are at the beginning and end.

Start: Start about 8m right of 'Greasy Burritos' from a diagonal ramp.

1. 22m (21) Step out left from the ramp and climb past FH into seam and follow it until it eases. Belay on a small stance below steepening (there is a better stance 4m lower but the anchors are poor).

2. 13m (21) Move up and step left below the headwall. Rock up the headwall past 2FH on some of the finest stone anywhere to large ledge and rap anchor.

As usual here second pitch is the best. Start about 5 metres right of DVIT and 5 metres left of 'Senior Citizens'.

1. 25m (15) Follow thin line up a series of discontinuous walls to ledge.

2. 20m (21) Blocky corner then straight to roof. Hard over this then up left-leading line past final bulge.

Hard start and good top pitch. Start 5 metres right of 'Senior Citizens' at an overhanging groove.

1. 20m (21) Hard moves lead to easy corner. Up to belay on right.

2. 20m (19) Climb the stepped orange corner on the right to rap anchor. Protection is difficult in places.

Climb Waterboys, upon arrival at the finish/lowering jugs heave up to gain and exit via the flake system as for Vague Corner.

Sit start to Waterboys via a dino from the steep juggy rail.

Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving up and leftish to finish via the easier section of Left Wall.

Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft.

Sit start at a undercling. Then up the overhanging stump. Top out.

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

Climb the wall to a ledge, then move L to line up the overhanging arête. Steeply to another ledge and finish to the R.

Start: A fair way R of 'Golden Oldies' is a narrow buttress.

Climb the wall L of The Flue; either directly (reachy to hidden fingerlock), or by stepping in L from a few metres up Hot August Night (thin and poorly protected). Chains rappel. A bolt appeared at some point but it has now gone.