Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Creasta Cocoșului | |||||
7+ | Nemo
| ||||
7+ | Joe indianul
| ||||
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Munții Igniş Turnul Marcului | |||||
7 - 8 | Oblic
1
6-
30m
2
7
35m
3
7 - 8
40m
| 110m, 3 | |||
7+ | Diedrul cu Mesteacăn
1
6+
35m
2
7
30m
3
7+
30m
| 95m, 3 | |||
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Munții Igniş Peretele Lespezi | |||||
7+ | Traseul Nou
1
7+
33m
2
6
30m
3
7+
30m
| 93m, 3 | |||
7+ | Mireasa Neagră
1
7+
40m
2
7
40m
3
6
30m
| 110m, 3 | |||
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Limpedea Faleza Mare | |||||
7/7+ | Fix Pix | 15m | |||
7+/8- | Rock Masters | 15m | |||
7+ | Histeric | 15m | |||
7+ | ★★ Obsession | 15m | |||
7/7+ | New Balance | 15m | |||
7+/8- | Lângă | 15m | |||
7/7+ | Treger Ștefan | 15m | |||
7/7+ | Minus | 15m | |||
7+ | Anemia | 15m | |||
7+ | Mistake | 15m | |||
Nord-Vest / North-West Munții Gutâi Piatra Vlaicului | |||||
7+/8- | Vis de vară | 8m | |||
7+ | Hurcă | 12m | |||
7/7+ | Pata albă | 13m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Gura Humorului Obcina Voronețului | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Z
Also works as trad | 18m, 8 | |||
{FR} 6c | Tavi
Older, pre-current-ethics route, 3 artificial footholds at the start and 1 artificial handhold in the undercling near the top. Try it without them | 5 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Berii | |||||
{FR} 6c | Brună
Start is apparently damaged, route is no longer a UIAA 5. Equip: Adrian Munteanu, 2005 | 15m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Drogheria | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Mucosolvan
Equip: Nicolae Durnac & Loredana Durnac, 2006 | 28m, 12 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău La spital | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Râie
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2007 | 18m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Diaree
Equip: Voicu Raia & Nicolae Durnac, 2007 | 25m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Teniază
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2020 | 28m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Hemoroizi
Equip: Nicolae Durnac & Loredana Durnac, 2007 | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Constipaţie
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2007 | 20m, 12 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Mătreaţă
Equip: Sergiu Bersan & Nicolae Durnac, 2007 | ||||
{FR} 6b/b+ | Colită
Equip: Gabi Cicu & Nicolae Durnac, 2009 | 20m, 12 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ 101
Equip: Ionut Crefelean & Nicolae Durnac, 2009 | 20m, 12 | |||
{FR} 6c | Contuzie
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2009 | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Luxatie
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2018 | 30m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Criză | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Dobândă
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2010 | 18m, 9 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Criză
Equip: Loredana Durnac & Nicolae Durnac, 2010 | ||||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Cindy Cat
Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2010 | ||||
{FR} 6c | Falimental
Equip: Loredana Durnac, 2010 | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | DeΦshit
Equip: Loredana Durnac & Nicolae Durnac, 2010 | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Miti'ng
Take care to avoid the edelweiss flowers on the route. Equip: Nicolae Durnac, 2010 | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Pietrele Doamnei Piatra Mare | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Floare de Colţ
Equip: Voicu Raia & Cătălin Frăţilă, 2003 | 2 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Piatra Şoimului | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Mamba
Equip: Voicu Raia, Catalin Ciofu & Florian Mastacan, 2004 | 35m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Alpinet
(5a) Equip: Florian Mastacan & Radu Tudorachi, 2004 | 2 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Rarău Peretele Coteţului | |||||
{FR} 6b/b+ | ★★★ Salmonella
Equip: Florian Mastacan, 2003 | 22m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Harmony
The entry and first meters of the route are deteriorated due to construction work on a parking lot. Equip: Florian Mastacan, 2002 | 22m | |||
{FR} 6c | Fantasy
The entry and first meters of the route are deteriorated due to construction work on a parking lot. Equip: Florian Mastacan, Gheorghe Sologiuc & Nicolae Durnac, 2002 | 20m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 1 | |||||
{FR} FB:5C | unknown 4 | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 2 | |||||
{FR} FB:5C | Biceps rece | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 20 | |||||
{FR} FB:5B - C | Garnitura | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 22 | |||||
{FR} FB:5C | Sunt eu Lăscărică | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 24 | |||||
{FR} FB:5C | Brăduţul | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Sihla Bloc 29 | |||||
{FR} FB:5C - 6A | Fluturaşul dezbrăcat | ||||
{FR} FB:5B - C | Miezozoic | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Agapia Vespa | |||||
FR:6c | ★★★ Ciofonea
Equip: Adrian Buhaescu | 13m, 5 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Agapia Ozana | |||||
FR:6b+ | ★★★ Barabancea
Equip: Adrian Buhaescu | 10m, 4 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector A Superior Bloc 1 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:5+ | Degețel | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector A Superior Bloc 5 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:5+ | Ieșirea de urgență | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector B Inferior Bloc 1 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:5+ | Alice in Wonderland | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector B Inferior Bloc 2 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:5+ | Brexit | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector B Inferior Bloc 3 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:5+ | Sextaz | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Stânca Sector B Superior Bloc 2 | |||||
{FR} FB_ALT:5+ | Ionică | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Lomaşului Faleza Lomăşiţa | |||||
7+/8- | Aerian | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Tarniţa Faleza Tarnița nr. 3 | |||||
7+ | Swallowtail | ||||
7+ | Shield Lichen | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Borsecului Faleza Ursului Sector A | |||||
{FR} 6c | Dusk
Equip: Simon Istvan, 2018 | 12m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Borsecului Faleza Ursului Sector B | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★ Halo Sun
Equip: Florin-Ciprian Andrecut, 2009 | 12m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Borsecului Faleza Ursului Sector C | |||||
{FR} 6c | Rucăr
Equip: Ciprian Andrecut | 14m | |||
{FR} 6c | Judgement Day
Equip: Ciprian Andrecut | 12m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Ceahlău Stânca Dochiei | |||||
{FR} 6c - 7a | Unnamed 1
Manufactured bolts, haven't checked the top Equip: Oliver Batar, 2002 | ||||
{FR} 6c - 7a | Unnamed 2
Manufactured bolts, haven't checked the top Equip: Oliver Batar, 2002 | ||||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Peretele Bardosului Gâtul Iadului | |||||
7+/8- | The Lizard
1
7+/8-
2
7+
3
7-/7
4
6
5
5+
6
7+
7
7+
PA: Radu Tudorachi, 2006 | 320m, 7 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Merda
| 20m, 8 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Peretele Bardosului Faleza "Hornul Mare" | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Pino
Mant: Ag 2022 | 20m, 10 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Pinocchio
Mant: Ag 2022 | 20m, 11 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Turnul Negru | |||||
7/7+ A1 - 2 RUS:5B | ★★★ Fisura Neagră
PA: Gheorghe Udrea & Ștefan Focșe, 1957 PAL: Oliver Batâr, 2001 Equip: László Fucskó & Tamás Benedek, 2001 Mant: Ag 2022 | 110m, 3 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Bolovanu' lu' Culiţă | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | 7-Up
| 12m, 6 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Faleza La căsuţe | |||||
7/7+ | Bagă Dreapta
| 20m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Piatra Altarului | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Umbra Vânătorilor
1
6a+
2
6a+
3
6a+
4
5b+
5
5b
6
6a
7
6c
Initially opened up as a trad linkup of Umbra Muchiei and Traseul Vânătorilor de Munte , this was reequipped as a mixed trad route (currently on spaced up bolts and some old pitons, with plenty of gear opportunities. Described is the classical entrance from Umbra Muchiei, with the Vanatori lower traverse version being easier but far more exposed to rockfall from the routes above. P1: Common with Umbra Muchiei. Climb a detached boulder and then head on a left-leaning crack (6a+) P2: Common with Umbra Muchiei. Can be broken in two pitches using the intermediate belay from the Vanatori lower traverse. If doing it in a single pitch, keep an eye on your rope management, since the line traverses more than is visible in the topo. Pitch 2A continues slightly leftward on the widening crack to a human-sized alveole, then heads up over a slight overhang to a grassy ledge that leads rightwards to the intermediate belay from the alternative entrance (5c?). Pitch 2B then traverses leftward again on a flake that leads to a crack, then past an overhang and rightwards again on easy terrain on Vanatori face to a ledge at the base of a chimney. P3: While Umbra Muchiei heads left directly on the arete, Umbra Vânătorilor climbs straight up on the chimney, then once it ends in a small alcove traverses right to a slightly overhanging offwidth that exits on the arete, near a dead tree. Belay on the left of the tree is part of Umbra Muchiei, and entirely avoided when linking the following pitch with the chimney/offwidth. 6a+ P4: Head on the arete on easy and airily protected ledges to a belay at the base of a large rock fang. 5b P5: Climb the rock fang on very easy terrain with 1 5b flake until reaching a rap station. Either regroup there and rap on the other side of the flake to where the line joins Vanatori, or be lowered there and belay and then lower your second. 5b P6: Common with Vanatori. Follow the vertical, then slightly overhanging crack through gorgeous white rock. Short but physical. 6a+, or 5c A0. P7: Common with Vanatori. Follow a right-arcing crack (6c or A1) and traverse right into a dihedral (5c/6a) before exiting to the final belay. From there, there are 10 more meters of scrambling to the cross. 6c, or 6a A0 Equip: László Lukács & Páll Endre, 2015 | 7, 15 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Cuşma Lapoşului | |||||
7+/8- A2 RUS:4B | Traseul Ruxandra
PA: Dan Vasilescu & Andrei Gata, 1976 | 91m, 3 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Peretele Mariei | |||||
7+/8- A0 RUS:4B | ★★ Finala '67
A well protected route (bolted/natural features belays, occasional bolts on the route itself, the original aid pitons still in place) following a highly aesthetic crack system. P1: After an initial overhang, traverse to the left until reaching a ledge, then follow a dihedral to the belay (a comfortable ledge with 2 trees) P2: Head up on a dihedral then traverse left on a small arete, continuing until the base of a 20m long hand-sized crack. At the metal pipe, traverse right, horizontally, until reaching easier ground. Bolted belay. P3: Traverse/downclimb slightly to the right and follow a slightly overhanging, and then vertical crack on more sustained terrain than P2. Bolted belay. PA: Dorel Șapira, Gheorghe Udrea & Paul Fozocoș, 1967 | 100m, 3 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Plus Sector 1 | |||||
{FR} 6b+/c | Alien Flower
Equip: Tudor Vartic & Razvan Vartic | 20m, 9 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Faleza Scorpion | |||||
7+ | Scorpionul
| 16m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Făgetul Ciucului | |||||
{FR} 6c | Traseul Tirbuşonul
70m rope required | 35m, 14 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Făgetul Ciucului Raza Soarelui Sector A | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Nico
PA: Nicoleta Dumitru, 2 Jul 2022 | 20m, 7 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Miana
| 23m, 7 | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Lacrimi și Sfinți
| 23m, 7 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Tallado ★★★ Lynx
| 25m, 9 | |||
{FR} 6c | Tallado ★★★ Pas Final
| 25m, 11 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Făgetul Ciucului Raza Soarelui Sector B | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Rainy Day
| 20m, 8 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | Distant Sun
Access is either from the narrow ledge that leads you to Sector B or by going left after climbing the Sarpele route from Sector A | 20m, 6 | |||
{FR} 6c | Petit nonsens
Access is either from the narrow ledge that leads you to Sector B or by going left after climbing the Sarpele route from Sector A | 20m, 6 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Bobcat
Can be climbed as an extension of the Lynx route from Sector A | 17m, 6 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Făgetul Ciucului Raza Soarelui Sector C | |||||
{FR} 6c | Delta
| 15m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Făgetul Ciucului Raza Soarelui Sector D | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Rotpunkt
| ||||
Oriental Carpathians Bicaz Gorge Suhardul Mic | |||||
7/7+ | ★★★ Diedrul Cuiburilor de Şoimi
1
7-/7
50m
2
5
30m
3
7/7+
40m
Route renovated in march 2023. Pitch 1: Head up on easy slab towards the fir tree, then at some tree roots take right, towards a very red portion of the rock. Follow a slightly overhanging crack up it (probably the most interesting portion of the route, cool moves and a rock not very often found in the area) and exit right then slightly left to the base of a wide dihedral where the bolted belay station is. 50m, 7-/7 UIAA Pitch 2: Follow the dihedral upwards. Slightly more airily bolted/pitoned, but easy terrain and good possibilities for larger mobiles. After ~25 meters, you'll see an old 3-piton belay station on a ledge to the right. The bolted belay is 10 meters higher, so continue following the dihedral up and traverse to the left under a roof to the bolted belay. 30m, 5 UIAA Pitch 3: Follow a crack upwards (crux of the route, 7/7+ UIAA, can be aided on medium-large nuts/small to medium friends) and reach a ridge. Follow it, and belay at a tree. 40m, 7/7+ UIAA PA: László Karácsonyi & Petre Cristina, 1956 Equip: 2008 Mant: Dic 2022 Mant: Mar 2023 | 120m, 3 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Cheile Șugăului Munticelu | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★★ Agonie și Extaz
1
4a
2
6a
3
6c
Fully repaired and re-bolted, the old pitons are still in place though.
PA: Ticu Lăcătușu & Cosmin Oprea, 1986 Equip: Ticu Lăcătușu & Vlad Băluță, 2020 | 110m, 3, 20 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Cheile Șugăului Faleza Aeriană | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | Farfuria Zburătoare | 20m, 7 | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Shahed
PA: Andrei Verdeanu, 2024 PA: 16 Mar | 22m, 8 | |||
Oriental Carpathians Cheile Șugăului Faleza de lângă Cabană | |||||
{FR} 6c/c+ | ★★★ Cip Cirip | 16m | |||
{FR} 6c/c+ | ★★★ unknown 12 | 15m | |||
Oriental Carpathians Cheile Șugăului CN 2004 versantul stâng | |||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Merry | 25m, 14 |