Vías en King's Kloof

Great route for beginners to learn to multi-pitch. Awesome view over King's Kloof.

Walk up the hill past Three Wise Men and around the corner for a bit. The route starts on a smooth orange slab.

1. Climb diagonally to the left to the stance on the big ledge.

2. Continue left, up the arête. Traverse right after the 3rd bolt. The head for the chains on top of the mounthain.

You can top out this route or abseil with two ropes (a single 70m works, or 60m might just make it with stretch)

Starts 7m up the slope from 'Seeds we Sow', climb right of the bolts up to the blank face which Crux (easy after you figure it out).

Starts 5m up the slope from 'Promised Land' Slab climb after initial pullup.

The next two climbs can be run together as a 31m outing. A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier, starting at a shield-shaped bulge just left of the middle of the main face. Climb up and over the bulge into a small recess and easier climbing. Scramble to anchors.

Upper tier – continuation of TWM - Scramble slightly left until below a balancy face. Climb this to a short traverse left and up steeply left to the anchors on the left side of the overhang. Use 60m rope if lowering to the ground.

Again, the next two climbs can be run together as a 30m pitch, though you’ll fall a long way on rope stretch if you come off at the top of SITW. Don’t hit the platform! A 60m rope will allow an average-weight climber to get down on rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end of the rope just in case!

Lower tier. Start 4m right of TWM. Follow the bolts as they wander right and left to the platform under SITW.

Upper tier. From the large platform between upper and lower tiers climb the prominent z-crack and traverse left to the chains. All praise to the first ascensionist (name?) who climbed this line on trad gear in the 1970s.

Traverse left to the roof, over this and back right to the anchors. The start can be wet in Summer.

project of Neil Margetts

Just before the chain scramble: The left start to Adam’s Rib, starting up the steep crack and block at 18, then joining the main route. Rope drag may be a problem when lowering off.

Start as Eve, then straight up to a recesss, and through the 2 overhangs above

Just before the chain scramble: Starts to the right of Eve and takes the left line of bolts on the wall above, over the two overhangs. Again, rope drag may be an issue.

Starts just above the chain scramble: Line of bolts just left of the dead tree at ¾ height. Very serious injury will meet both climber and belayer if the climber falls before clipping the first bolt. Note safety bolt.

Start at the sentry box and traverse right across the wall, to exit up the roof-capped corner..

Powerful moves left and up to exit on the right side of the head-wall; easier if you’re tall..

Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains.

Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis.

Climbs the crack up the short face 2m to the left of the tree. This was the first climb opened at King’s Kloof.

This climbs the short blank face behind the tree. To get the grade, climb just right of the bolt line. Left is easier.

Start just left of the cross. Traverse gently left to finish on the arête at the top. Climb bolt to bolt; no escaping onto the big ledges!

Start as for CFD, on the block. Traverse left and up the wall to curve back right to the anchors.

Start on a block in the corner. Climbs the corner chimney/crack. Anchors shared with DS. First ascent: George Stainton January 2011 Variation 19: Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner.

Climb the left face only, not using the blocks/jugs in the corner nor the right wall of the corner.

Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left.

Neil’s project

Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the head-wall to the anchors.

Climb Turn Or Burn onto th eheadwall, then traverse right along a thin crack

Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors.

Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious under-clings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors.

Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag.

Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors.

Move up on large holds as for the main climb. Continue up and traverse left into the groove on good holds.

Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors.

An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt.

This climb is way right of the last one but the cave it's in is an obvious feature. Start just left of the bigger cave on the far right of the crag. Move up (with difficulty if short) to an off-balance rest and then do a series of strenuous moves right to get established on the headwall. Climb the headwall trending left to the chains.

Move up and left over hard terain then straight up at arete.

Follow the obvious crack to a ledge and then break out slightly left

Starts on rock mound, come off on lead and you will land in tree.

Starts on rock mound up smooth overhang. shares 6 draws and anchors with climb on right.

Variation (19): Keep to the right and avoid the crux.

Up the main dark crack.

Move diagonally and up right using side pulls and then break out right of the arete.

Traverse left under roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left.

First ascent by Eke Zsolt from Hungary on Easter 2011.

Up the corner then break through the big roofs.

Hard start into real easy climbing.

Crosses over Moses In The Bulrushes.

Climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge. Best to clean on top rope since the route runs diagonally left.

Fun face climb.

Pulls through little overhang onto face above. Technical and fun.

Crux is at the start, great warm up climb.

Last route on the right when facing the crag. On angle, shares chains with 15 next door. Best to clean on top rope since the climb goes diagonally left.

Short but business straight off the deck. Scramble up the slab to the base where there are 2 bolts for your belayer. 10 moves, steep and technical.

Sit start at the bottom of the cave with hands matched on a mini rail. Climb up and out via some big pulls being careful not to dab the boulder on the left. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start on the lower part of the arête and climb directly up on big holds. Grade still open to consensus.

Crouch start on jug, moving right into Chaffing Chicken. Grade still open to consensus.

Crouch start on jug, finish right of the roof. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right using the top edge. Finish left of the little roof. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right NOT using the top edge. Finish left of the little roof. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right, linking to Grounded Goose. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right, linking to Darkened Duck. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start at the bottom left of the boulder, climb diagonally up the right seam/crack. Top out the top right of the boulder. Fun climbing.

Sit start with hands on the obvious lowest two flat crimps. Climb straight up via slopey crimps and edges and top out.

Sit start next to the tree on a side pull and a pinch, Head up and diagnally left taking care not to dab against the tree. Use the tree to get down safely once topped out.

Sit start with left hand on a shark fin edge and right hand on a slopey dish. Do some hard core crimping and climb up diagonally left, then top out

Sit start with L-shaped hold. Compress your way through the first few moves and top out on easy terrain.

Sit Start off lower jugs, top out by the dark streak.

Sit start middle and left on main face with left hand on a pinch and right hand on a good edge. Don't use the lower block for starting feet. Power up via some throws and top out over and left. Grade still open to consensus.

Same start as Birthday Boy heading out diagonally right to the lip/edge. Grade TBC

Sit start on the left with a crimp and a side pull. Go directly up

Sit start on the big edge on the corner and top up directly above.

Sit start on the big edge on the corner. Move diagonally right

Stand start below the blunt arete. Climb this using tricky lay backs and edges and top out. Avoid the sharp arete on the right...