Vías en Hamerkop Kloof para grado seleccionado

Situated on upstream side of the buttress immediately upstream of the pinnacle at the head of the kloof above the top weir.

1. 25m 11 Climb follows a well-defined crack that faces the stream. Ascend the crack for 10m, then continue following crack past blocks to belay on top.

Begin just downstream of the first weir, high in the recess just to the right of LOVE AT FIRST FRIGHT. [Pipe No 34 above the pipe ramp.]

1. 21m 7 Ascend the line of least resistance up the scruffy gully to the top of the tree line.

2. 22m 11 Move left and climb the crack line to the right of the grey faces which bound the left side of the recess (when facing in).

Note: Be careful rope doesn't loosen rock at the top of the gully.

Takes the left slanting off-width crack 5m downstream of SLIP SLIDING AWAY. [Near pipe No 30 above the pipe ramp]

1. 21m 11 Climb the wall to the left of, and close to, the off-width crack. Pull onto the wide grassy ledge above in the gully proper.

Note: It is possible to descend by abseiling from a stout tree in the centre of the gully a few metres above the grassy ledge.

Climbs the left-hand slab and faces in the steep gully between SUB JUDICE and SPHINCTER SPASM. [12 pipe lengths up from the ramp]

1. 23m 11 Climb a faint grey scoop and pull up over two detached slabs to a tree and broad ledge.

2. 22m 11 Climb in twin recesses, one with a chockstone, (take your pick) to the top.

Note: Not recommended. There's plenty better nearby.

Start 7 pipe lengths upstream from where the pipe descends to stream level, and the lowest rock moves away from the pipe. Scramble up to a short upstream-facing 10m high grade 6 recess with chockstones at the top.

1. 20m 11 Climb the recess and emerge at the foot of a short corner crack. Climb the crack (11) to a large ledge. Traverse downstream and around the back of a squat pillar with a block on top. Climb a short brown corner above a tree on to a grassy ledge.

2. 15m 9 Climb a wide crack right of another pillar and on to the grey faces above moving left to the top.

Start 5 pipe lengths up from the pipe ramp.

1. 25m 11 Climb the grey blocks to the left of the grade 6 recess of PORCO DIO. Cross that climb and enter a 5m recess to a grassy ledge. (This is a poor substitute for the adjacent appealing crack on PORCO DIO.) Traverse right onto a broad ledge to the right of the pillar which PORCO DIO skirts.

2. 23m 10 Climb the brown recess above (hard rock to the right). Move right and fight through the tree onto the right-hand final arête.

The climb takes the prominent chimney situated just upstream of the descent gully with the water pipe. Follow this pipe up the ramp until next to a large cave. [Upstream of Pipe Ramp]

1. 20m 9 Climb up to the right of the cave onto a ledge. Ascend crack to next ledge and walk into back of chimney. Up chimney to the roof and move out onto the top of a huge detached block.

2. 18m 9 Move right into groove and climb this past a rusty peg to the summit.

Variation:

2 18m 13 Move up and left onto steep exposed slab and continue up to a large flat block. Step right and finish up the arête. (21 Jul 1985 L. Gardiner and T.P. Willmot)

The climb is situated on the true left-hand side opposite the second weir. Its start is 8m downstream of corner below the red face.

1. 21m 11 Climb the shallow groove keeping to the natural line which passes a small bush to a large tree. Belay from blocks above tree.

Takes a direct line up the square buttress just downstream of the pipeline ramp. At the top there is a capstone pointing downstream. Start at water level, just downstream of a tiny waterfall. [G - 5]

1. 25m 7 Climb the centre of the blocky grey faces to a broad ledge with square grey blocks beneath overhangs.

2. 25m 13 Move up into the shallow brown recess and through the overhangs to the right (13). Continue to the top on delightful clean rock up the right-hand centre of the arête (11).

Note: Exposed, clean climbing after the overhangs. The grade 13 moves may be avoided by traversing left onto ZARZUELA.

Identified by a square orange incut at top of buttress. Climb at water level to the left of some black streaks at a 4-trunked gnarled tree. [A - 5]

1. 12m 10 Climb up the small open book to the first ledge. Continue up the same fault to the second ledge and then on the grey face to a large grassy ledge.

2. 36m 11 Traverse left 10m and climb right of a hidden scooped 5cm-wide crack. Up easy rock to a steep orange face and climb through the orange square, or avoid it to the right over more easy rock.

Starts directly opposite BITCH TO THE BOYS (which has a large bullet-shaped rock featured halfway up the crag). Start in a 5m wide square recess in grey rock with slightly overhanging brown rock above. The start is near water level. [F + 20]

1. 18m 11 Climb the left-hand corner to below the overhanging brown arête (8). Move right below this (11) and up to a broad grassy ledge.

2. 20m 10 Continue directly above to the top.

Start in the right-hand of the two corners mentioned in STOP PRESS. Scramble to the highest point in the wide recess and climb past some cacti behind a large block in the corner. [E + 8]

1. 40m 11 Climb directly up the corner past a tree at 12m and on through the obvious fault line to a second tree. Move left in the last few metres.

Note: Consistent grade. Lovely holds. Clean rock. Nice climb.

Diagonally opposite the black-streaked rock of SQUARE ORANGE is a grey face at water level below a shelf with set-back faces behind. [A - 5]

1. 10m 11 Climb the faint recess in the short grey face to the grassy shelf.

2. 30m 10 Move 10m right to the brown faces. Climb to a small grey pinnacle at 20m then move left over easy rock to the top.

Note: Vegetated in upper reaches. Gets progressively worse, after a good first pitch.

The climb is downstream of PINA COLADA. It starts opposite the B-C descent ramp next to LEKKER OKE. About 15m above the path is a striking, large tree which appears partly dead. Scramble to a grassy ledge behind the tree.

1. 32m 11 Climb the blocks behind the tree for 6m like a giant stair to the bottom of a jamming crack in the corner. Climb the crack by jamming or move 2m left and climb the corner and arête. Continue to the large ledge with trees 6m higher. Climb the red face on the right of the ledge for 8m, moving 2m right to small tree and on for another 6m on steep face with good holds to the top which is 5m downstream of a 900mm white cubic block.

Note: A clean, interesting short route suitable for large groups at meets.