Divine Time Buttress Todos Escalada clásica 5 vías en acantilado

The route traverses starts 2m right of the water drip and collection point at the more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. The start is marked with a cairn place on a block.

1. (19) 55m Do a couple of moves up the white rock and place a high large cam. Crank through to a jug - a bit rounded if you are short. Continue straight up the good quality grey rock to a ledge at 35m or so. Stance here or continue for another 10m up the obvious recess and step right onto the face/pillar and continue to a ledge with some blocks at the base of the orange rock.

2. (19) 25m Head for the left leaning red recessed ramp and continue to below a large overhang and make a stance on a perch.

3. (19) 25m Move right and climb through the overhang on the right. One can place excellent gear at the lip from an under-cling in the corner under the over-hang. Make sure you have very long slings to avoid drag if you choose to leave gear in the rail under the overhang. Swing out right and climb diagonally up right avoiding the chossy channel on the left. Follow the good rock diagonally right passing the first triangular overhang and continue past the second, larger triangular overhang on the right and then straight up as per the topo to a belay ledgeto stance on a large ledge.

4. (19) 50m Place a 1 inch cam up on the right. Climb up the flakes first using jugs and then lay-back after placing the very obvious 2.5 inch cam (gold camelot or equivalent). Above you are huge roofs. Move up to under the roof and then pull through the obvious notch to find yourself under another massive roof system. Exit this on the right and then climb straight up the arete to belay left of a large yellow wood tree/bush.

5. (18) 20m Climb the obvious recess using the flakes and then do a crank through the overlap to continue more easily to the top.

Descent walk left, (EAST) about 40m to the Timerity abseil.

Notes (Snort).

1. The single hardest move especially if you are short stature is 3m off the ground.

2. This route is steep and consistent and pumpy at the grade. It has about as much 19 grade climbing as all the grade 19 pitches -combined - on Africa or Fountain Ledges so you need to be quite climbing fit. None of the actual moves are as hard as say the crux on Last Laugh but there are lots and lots of them. You should be competent and fit enough to do grade 20 one pitch routes on trad before doing this route.

3. The protection is excellent especially at the cruxes. However, at Yellowwood the routes and pitches are long and run-outs are part and parcel of the climbing experience there. Otherwise you can easily run out of time especially in winter.

4. It can be climbed all year round and is dry within two days of rain.

5. If you have an epic the route is steep so easy to rap off bollards and threads.

6. Some climbers who have done Good Time reckon the routes is improved by linking to the top pitches on Good Time after doing the 3rd pitch. This might be so but pitch 4 is excellent and pitch 5 also has decent climbing with a spicy crux at the grade. Good Time in its own right is a 5 star route and has consistent grade 19 climbing with only a short 4m crux through the roof. Unless you have a visitor who is climbing once off at Yellowwood I strongly recommend doing each route independently.

7. Gear: Standard rack of wires and cams with double cams of alternate sizes say as some of the pitches are long. No micro nuts or micro cams are necessary. 50m ropes are fine but then you will have to use the optional stance of pitch 1 which is no big deal.

8. The climbing is steep and intimidating but it flows nicely. It is grade 19! and all the cruxes can be protected before committing to the moves. Once committed to a crux, remember it is grade 19. That means you will be able to climb safely for not more than a metre or two before you will be reasonably comfortable to put out more pro.

9. Finding the Timerity descent is easy from here. You can see the red rope tat from the final belay stance on top of the Divine Time Buttress. Facing out look down and to your right and you will see red rope tat (As at June 2016) at the start of the long grassy floured ledge topped by the overhang (cave).

1. 16 50m. Start 4m right of Divine Time. Climb up onto the block and do a high step through the undercut onto the face. Continue to below the overhang and step onto the arête. Continue straight up to the ledge and walk left past the base of the grey pillar to a stance.

2. 18 35m. Avoid the vegetated corner on the right and climb the grey clean crack to the dassie ledge. If you can reach the holds place a good nut and 1.5in cam and crank up to jugs and continue to a narrow ledge. (Avoid the crank by moving to the grey pillar on the right and then back left – not very aesthetic.) Walk left along the ledge a few metres. (Remember to leave a directional piece for your second.) Climb the polished white and orange rock tending up left to stance in the cubbyhole.

3. 20 30m Climb out right of the cubbyhole to a recess. Move up right out of the recess. Climb up diagonally left past an excellent finger lock to a below a large jammed flake. Lay back past the flake as is this the easiest way to do this – just trust your feet. Continue up tending a little right to stance right below the roof on the right.

4. 19 45m Cimb straight up for about 3m and then up the flakes for another 3m. Traverse right 4m under the thin overhang to a ledge. Place some gear on the right and then negotiate a move back left to find good jugs. (Do not climb the crack on the right – loose rock.) Continue up the face staying 3m left of the dihedral on the right and then move right to the arête when 3m or so below the large overhang. Continue up the chimney crack to stance level with the large yellowwood bush seen on the right on Divine Time.

5. 16 30m Climb inside the chimney or outside on the flakes and continue straight up to the top.

This route is climbable after rain but it is harder 20/21 but still safe. You will find lots of wet holds that make the footholds seem very insecure.

The gear is really good where you need it to be.

On the third pitch, once you are in the recess do not exit it on its left. It really is not that tricky going right and much cleaner and easier. The climbing is really excellent. Going left lands you in hard scary choss. Enjoy. We did! '

The route starts below a very obvious off-width crack about 30m right of Divine Time.

1. (19+) 45m Climb straight up to the off-width and climb it. A large cam is not really necessary. Continue up the shallow recess tending up left to a ledge. Crank straight up into the obvious recess directly above and continue into a shallow left facing corner. Climb this to a large ledge. There is some lichen that is tricky when wet.

2. (19-) 35m. Walk about 4m left past the bush and climb up to the overhang below the left right facing corner. Traverse left and continue on the gorgeous red and yellow rock below the overhang till it pinches. Move up and then head back right past a lovely gold camelot placement to a ledge level with the overhang on the right.

3. (19-) 30m Traverse left 3 or 4 metres until a jug forest rises above below a shallow right facing recess. Climb up into the recess and step left. Continue straight up till easier ground allows you step across the gulley onto a ledge on the Tea Time Buttress.

4. (21) 30m Climb on the face and cracks just to the left of the grotty crack on small holds till it eases. Stance on a nice sized ledge.

5. (21) 35m Climb the Arête to a ledge level with the overhang on the left. Move left past flakes and continue up into a right facing corner. Go for the top.

Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 abseils. 50m or 60m ropes are recommended.

Walk horizontally 30m right along the ledge round the corner and look for a thread below you.

1. Abseil about 40m past a large grassy ledge to a thread point on a ledge.

2. Abseil from this thread 40m to a green rope point over a rock horn a bit to the left.

3. Abseil about 35m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .

4. Abseil about 45m to the ground.