A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Marc dM Cormac Tooze Scurvy Timothy Larsen
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Divine Time Buttress 5 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Divine Time Buttress 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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Todo Escalada clásica
restricciones
The Ravine, Amphitheatre and most of the climbable rock is on the farm Gevonden 733 and is privately owned by the Dave Richter family trust. There is tacit permission to climb at Yellowwood by the beneficiaries of the trust provided we do not engage in any eco-unfriendly practises.
Acceso
The water point at the base of the Divine Time Buttress is about 100m lower than the centre of the base of the main amphitheatre.
Ética
The prevailing ethic for Yellowwood is tread lightly.
"Tread lightly" means no bolting of belay stances unless all possible alternatives have been completely exhausted. No placing of bolts for running belays that are not absolutely essential. No use of pitons, unless necessary. No use of power drills is accepted!
Climbers are asked to respect the prevailing ethic which is intended to preserve the aesthetic appeal of Yellowwood as a world-class Trad climbing destination.
It is essential for first time visitors to do an ascent of one of the existing classic trad routes to appreciate the committing and adventurous nature of the climbing at Yellowwood. Older routes such as Armageddon Time (and the direct), Blood is Sweeter than Honey and Time Warp are all test pieces for their grade. And newer routes such as Prime Time (and the direct) and Fantastic Time as well as "routes in progress" of which there at least 3, are no less demanding at the grade. Most, if not all the trad routes on the main wall have at least one "R" (run-out) pitch but none are "X" rated. There is minimal fixed gear and very few fixed stance
A new route on Yellowwood, Fighting The Dark Side Of Gravity, has had all its bolts removed, except for two that are essential for the leader on Pitch 3. Two non-essential pitons have also been removed.
There has been much debate about Yellowwood and the most active Yellowwood climbers have talked extensively so as to settle the ethos of this high-value cliff.
In a recent meeting Adam Roff, Jeremy Samson and Hilton Davies distilled the following:
Yellowwood is a very special Trad climbing venue and there have been some mis-steps in route development at the crag. Newborn was bolted many years ago before locals had given much thought to bolting and ethics. It is a legacy that shall remain, but should not be seen as guidance for route development at Yellowwood. More recently four new routes have been established by visitors who have made extensive use of non-essential bolting. Whilst route development is encouraged, non-essential bolting is not; and these new routes are getting their non-essential bolts removed. They will remain as good adventurous routes.
2014: There have been no less than 10 new multi-pitch trad routes established at Yellowwood in the first 5 months of this year. Together they constitute no less than 60 pitches or, combined, more than 1500m of climbing. All the routes have been free-climbed with the vast majority of the pitches of being moderate grade and only 2 pitches of grade 22 and one of grade 24. The routes are all well protected and no fixed gear was necessary.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Divine Time
The route traverses starts 2m right of the water drip and collection point at the more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. The start is marked with a cairn place on a block.
Descent walk left, (EAST) about 40m to the Timerity abseil. Notes (Snort).
PA: Deon van Zyl & Charles Edelstein, 2014 | 19 | 190m, 5 | |||
2 |
★★ Play Time
This route is climbable after rain but it is harder 20/21 but still safe. You will find lots of wet holds that make the footholds seem very insecure. The gear is really good where you need it to be. On the third pitch, once you are in the recess do not exit it on its left. It really is not that tricky going right and much cleaner and easier. The climbing is really excellent. Going left lands you in hard scary choss. Enjoy. We did! ' PA: Deon van Zyl & Charles Edelstein, 2014 | 20 | 190m, 5 | |||
3 |
Time lapse
PA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, Nov 2016 | 24 | 200m, 5 | |||
4 |
Outrageous Time
PA: Charles Edelstein, Richard Halsey & Adam Roff PA: Charles Edelstein & Willem le Roux, Nov 2015 | 25 | 170m, 5 | |||
5 |
Time After Time
The route starts below a very obvious off-width crack about 30m right of Divine Time.
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 abseils. 50m or 60m ropes are recommended. Walk horizontally 30m right along the ledge round the corner and look for a thread below you.
PA: Charles Edelstein, Tony Dick & Adam Roff, 30 Nov 2014 | 21 | 180m, 5 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
19 | ★★ | Divine Time | 190m, 5 | ||
20 | ★★ | Play Time | 190m, 5 | ||
21 | Time After Time | 180m, 5 | |||
24 | Time lapse | 200m, 5 | |||
25 | Outrageous Time | 170m, 5 |