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Stoney West Guide

  • Contexto de grado: UK
  • Ascensiones: 6

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

László Csengeri Miguel Vila Paul Renwick

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Stoney West 32 routes in Area

Summary:
E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

Escalada deportiva y Escalada clásica

Lat / Long: 53.280006, -1.679000

Resumen

A continuation of the main Stoney crag.

descripción

A crag with both sport and traditional climbing routes. In the Main area, trad and sport routes share lower-offs.

restricciones

Not too far from Horse-Thief quarry on the same side of the road, climbing is allowed, with no access issues.

Acceso

Best to be reached by car. There are laybys on the LHS of the road as approaching from Stoney village. The crag is on the same side right-hand side as Horse-Thief and Horseshoe quarry, cross the road and follow the well-trodden path.

Ética

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

heredado de Peak District Limestone

Historia

First ascents by Gary Gibson and Paul Mitchell.

1.1. Twang Buttress 0 routes in Area

Resumen

The left-most Buttress. More sheltered than the other areas.

1.2. Northerners Buttress 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 53.280081, -1.679478

Resumen

Good quality rock with a classic traditional style route in the middle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spiron VS 4c Clásica 15m
2 Can't Climb Wont Climb

The bolted route starts on the slabby wall at the left, the crux is at the bulge.

7a Deportiva 15m
3 Northerners can't Climb E5 6b Clásica 15m
4 Another Camden Day 6c+ Deportiva 15m
5 Southerners Can't Climb E3 5c Clásica 15m
6 Whisper 6c+ Deportiva 15m
7 Joy or Depsair

Feels hard for its grade if started directly under the bulge. The view from the top is excellent.

6a+ Deportiva 15m
8 Elective Affinities

Seldom climbed and now very vegetated.

E2 5c Clásica 15m

1.3. Main Area 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 53.279909, -1.678712

Resumen

The first section you will encounter when approached from the footpath.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Contemplation 6c+ Deportiva 8m
2 Apparition 5a Deportiva 8m
3 Superstition 6c+ Deportiva 8m
4 The Seclusion 7a Deportiva 8m
5 No Greenwich Meantime 6c+ Deportiva 10m
6 The Trill of the Chase 6b+ Deportiva 10m
7 In Conversation 6b Deportiva 10m
8 Liberation 6b+ Deportiva 10m
9 An illusion 6b Deportiva 10m
10 Rainsong E1 5b Clásica 12m
11 Late at Night 6b+ Deportiva 13m
12 Root Cause Analysis 6b Clásica 15m
13 Dust 6b Deportiva 15m
14 Suffrage 6a+ Deportiva 15m
15 Suffocation 6a Deportiva 15m
16 Little Sparrow

A nice line following a groove.

5c Deportiva 15m
17 Voices

The move past the last bolt is very hard for its grade.

6a+ Deportiva 15m
18 Fred

Long crack line with a lower off on the right.

HVS 5a Clásica 15m
19 Eddie Cochrane 6b+ Deportiva 15m
20 Setting of the Sun

Although a bit crumbling at the mid section, it gives excellent climbing all the way up the belay.

6b Deportiva 15m
21 Satisfaction 6c Deportiva 15m
22 Don't talk to Strangers 6c Deportiva 15m
23 Procession

The start is very hard for the grade. Pre-clip the first one or two bolt if you can.

6b+ Deportiva 15m
24 Perilscope 6c+ Deportiva 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5a Apparition Deportiva 8m 1.3. Main Area
VS 4c Spiron Clásica 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
5c Little Sparrow Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
HVS 5a Fred Clásica 15m 1.3. Main Area
6a Suffocation Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
6a+ Joy or Depsair Deportiva 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
Suffrage Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
Voices Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
6b An illusion Deportiva 10m 1.3. Main Area
Dust Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
In Conversation Deportiva 10m 1.3. Main Area
Setting of the Sun Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
E1 5b Rainsong Clásica 12m 1.3. Main Area
6b+ Eddie Cochrane Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
Late at Night Deportiva 13m 1.3. Main Area
Liberation Deportiva 10m 1.3. Main Area
Procession Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
The Trill of the Chase Deportiva 10m 1.3. Main Area
6c Don't talk to Strangers Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
Satisfaction Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
E2 5c Elective Affinities Clásica 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
6c+ Another Camden Day Deportiva 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
Whisper Deportiva 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
Contemplation Deportiva 8m 1.3. Main Area
No Greenwich Meantime Deportiva 10m 1.3. Main Area
Perilscope Deportiva 15m 1.3. Main Area
Superstition Deportiva 8m 1.3. Main Area
E3 5c Southerners Can't Climb Clásica 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
7a Can't Climb Wont Climb Deportiva 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
The Seclusion Deportiva 8m 1.3. Main Area
6b Root Cause Analysis Clásica 15m 1.3. Main Area
E5 6b Northerners can't Climb Clásica 15m 1.2. Northerners Buttress
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