A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Horseshoe Quarry
245 in Crag
- 1.1. The Bay / Star Wars 0 in Cliff
- 1.2. Gouranga Bay 11 in Cliff
- 1.3. Heart Buttress 10 in Cliff
- 1.4. Chocolate Blancmange Wall / The Slabs 15 in Cliff
- 1.5. Sunday Sport Wall / Africa Buttress / Left Wall 53 in Cliff
- 1.6. Main Wall 27 in Cliff
- 1.7. Android Sector 22 in Cliff
- 1.8. Toilet sector 29 in Cliff
-
1.9.
Upper Tier 78 in Cliff
- 1.9.1. Upper tier 60 in Area
- 1.9.2. Top Quarry 18 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Horseshoe Quarry 245 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281407, -1.688430
restricciones
For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/
Ética
Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.
1.1. The Bay 0 routes in Cliff
1.2. Gouranga Bay 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281361, -1.689211
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Pig in a Poke
Overgrown, with a bad belay position. This is the first route from the left. | 5a | 10m | |||
| 2 |
Bad Boys Ink
At least a grade higher if climbed direct. | 6a | 12m | |||
| 3 |
Unruly Behaviour
Overgrown, with an old lower-off. | 6a+ | 12m | |||
| 4 | Treatment | 6b | 14m | |||
| 5 | Therapy | 6b+ | 14m | |||
| 6 | Porgi AMor | 6a+ | 14m | |||
| 7 | Foreign Tongues | 6a | 14m | |||
| 8 | Gouranga | 6c | 14m | |||
| 9 |
You Crack Me Up
The only trad route on this wall. Very overgrown. | E1 5b | 14m | |||
| 10 | Minigrip | 7a+ | 10m | |||
| 11 | Unhung | 6a+ | 12m | |||
1.3. Heart Buttress 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281837, -1.689569
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nine Eleven | 6a | ||||
| 2 | Seven Eleven | {FR} 6b | ||||
| 3 | Tors Colon | {FR} 6c+ | 10m | |||
| 4 | Vent Your Spleen | {FR} 7b | ||||
| 5 | Heart to Heart | E4 6a | 8m | |||
| 6 | Sliver | {FR} 6c+ | ||||
| 7 | Stomach Pump | {FR} 7a+ | ||||
| 8 | Skin Flint | {FR} 6b+ | ||||
| 9 | The Blood Bank | {FR} 6b | ||||
| 10 | Sharing Best Practice | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
1.4. Chocolate Blancmange Wall 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.282464, -1.689186
descripción
Popular easy slabs and some even more popular easy multi-pitch routes on this section. It is cleaned up nicely, and it is a very popular section of the quarry. Fixed belay points are fitted for some routes (slab cake onwards).
Acceso
As you walk into the quarry this section is right at the end of the lower tier.
Descenso
All routes are equipped with decent lower-offs.
Historia
First ascents by Gary Gibson, Michael Hunt, and Jane Livingstone.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sharing Best Practice | {FR} 6a+ | 15m | |||||
| 2 | Barry Rubble | {FR} 5+ | 35m | |||||
| 3 | ★ Chauvi's Slab | {FR} 5+ | 35m | |||||
| 4 | Still Nacht | {FR} 5+ | 35m | |||||
| 5 |
Neanderthal
The crux is after the fixed belay point, with a hidden jug, and can feel quite exposed.. Nowadays is very popular and it is usually done as a multi-pitch route. | {FR} 5 | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 6 | ★ Trog | {FR} 5 | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 7 | ★ Men at Work | {FR} 5 | 32m | |||||
| 8 | ★ The Quarrymen | {FR} 6a | 32m | |||||
| 9 | ★ Excavator | {FR} 5+ | 30m | |||||
| 10 | Slab Cake | {FR} 4 | 25m | |||||
| 11 | ★ Spare Rib | {FR} 5 | 25m | |||||
| 12 | The Cake Walk | {FR} 4 | 20m | |||||
| 13 | ★ Christmas Pud | {FR} 4+ | 20m | |||||
| 14 | Sago Slab | {FR} 4 | 18m | |||||
| 15 | ★★ Dream Topping | {FR} 4+ | 16m | |||||
1.5. Sunday Sport Wall 53 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.282085, -1.687999
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Sunday Sport | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 2 | ★ Austin Powers | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 3 |
★★ The Big Fat Texan on the Corner
The centre of the wall, left of the big corner. Originally it was climbed direct but now holds on the right are used. If climbed from start of Austin Powers, offered a nice 6b variation. | {FR} 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 4 |
★★ He Seems so Sumo
The crack on the right starting from a block is sustained, though there is a good mid height rest. Recently extended. | {FR} 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||
| 5 | ★ Olive Oil | {FR} 6a | 20m | |||
| 6 |
Removal Man
The big corner. Bolts are spaced, some gear might help. You can clip a bolt on Olive Oil to the left if the run out feels a little too much. Its trad with bolts. | {FR} 4+ | 18m, 3 | |||
| 7 |
★ Some Place
The steep crack right of the big corner, to a neat finish above the roof. | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 8 |
★ Sag Ponir
A short crack just left of the main arete - a one move wonder on good holds.........mostly | {FR} 5c+ | 14m | |||
| 9 | Out of Africa | {FR} 6b+ | 14m | |||
| 10 | ★★ Madagascar | {FR} 6b | 14m | |||
| 11 | Bird Island | {FR} 6a | 31m, 2 | |||
| 12 | ★★ Seychelles | {FR} 6b | 16m | |||
| 13 | ★ Rainbow Warrior | {FR} 6c | ||||
| 14 | ★★ Weakend Warrior | {FR} 6b | 16m | |||
| 15 | ★★ Sam in your Eye | {FR} 6a+ | 14m | |||
| 16 | ★ During the War | {FR} 6a+ | 16m | |||
| 17 | Before the War | {FR} 5 | 18m | |||
| 18 | Sahara | {FR} 6c | 18m | |||
| 19 | ★★ Union Jack | {FR} 5 | 18m | |||
| 20 | African't | {FR} 6b+ | 18m | |||
| 21 | Desperate Dan | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 22 | Fine and Dandy | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 23 | African | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 24 | ★ Bloodguard | {FR} 6c+ | 18m | |||
| 25 | Grab your Mandrakes | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 26 | ★ Tirfin USA | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 27 | Tirf's High | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 28 | Race to the Freuds | {FR} 6b+ | 18m | |||
| 29 | Peckling Fever | {FR} 5+ | 18m | |||
| 30 | ★ Senter Home | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 31 | Tirfer Off | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 32 | ★ Maillon Sunday | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 33 | ★ Bootiful Bernard Matthews | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 34 | ★★ Foul's Bane | {FR} 6a | 18m | |||
| 35 | Drool Rock Worm | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 36 | ★ Stone Throat | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 37 | Slay the Gray | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 38 | ★ Mr. Cellulite's Arete | {FR} 6a+ | 14m | |||
| 39 | ★ Bandolier | {FR} 6a | 18m | |||
| 40 | ★★ Underslung | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 41 | ★ The little thin Mexican across the Border | {FR} 6b | 20m | |||
| 42 | Desperate Measures | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 43 | ★ The Mexican takes Lexicon | {FR} 6a+ | ||||
| 44 | Exceeding the Speed Limit | {FR} 6b | 20m | |||
| 45 | Mind your head | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 46 | Desperate Housewives | {FR} 6a | 14m | |||
| 47 | ★ Collared | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 48 | Spare Rib | {FR} 6b | 16m | |||
| 49 | Eddie McStiff | {FR} 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 50 | Pelvic Thrust | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||
| 51 | The Hippy, Hippy Shakes | {FR} 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 52 | Due Care and Attention | {FR} 6a+ | 18m | |||
| 53 | Any Old Iron | {FR} 6a | 18m | |||
1.6. Main Wall 27 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281701, -1.687769
descripción
Huge quarry feels remote and alien,but is less than 10 minutes from the road
Acceso
Limited parking in layby on main road
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Pale Rider | {FR} 6a | 20m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Rain Dance | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 3 | ★ Physical Fizz | {FR} 6c | ||||
| 4 | The Colostomy Finish | {FR} 7a | ||||
| 5 | ★★ School's Out | {FR} 6b | 20m | |||
| 6 | ★★ Rotund Rooley | {FR} 6b | 20m | |||
| 7 | ★★ Wave of Mutilation | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
| 8 | ★ First Days of Winter | HVS 5b | 20m | |||
| 9 | ★★ Wall of Jericho | {FR} 6b | 20m | |||
| 10 | The Leading Line | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 11 | ★★ Say it With Flowers | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||
| 12 | ★★ Legal Action | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||
| 13 | ★★ Run For Your Wife | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||
| 14 | ★★ Private Prosecution | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||
| 15 | ★★ Litany Against Fear | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||
| 16 | ★ Megalithic Man | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 17 | ★★ Megalithic Man Direct | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||
| 18 | ★ Poisonality | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
| 19 | ★★ An Ancient Rhythm | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||
| 20 | ★ Demolition Man | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||
| 21 | ★★ Shot Yer Bolt | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 22 | ★ Southern Man | {FR} 7a+ | 20m | |||
| 23 | ★ Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 24 | ★ Flat World | {FR} 7a+ | 20m | |||
| 25 | ★ Lost Monolith | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 26 | Screwy Driver | E1 5b | 20m | |||
| 27 | Spring Awakening | HVS 5a | 20m | |||
1.7. Android Sector 22 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281377, -1.687350
descripción
Both sides of this section are a bit unstable. Beware of loose rock when climbing.
Descenso
All routes, including the trads are equipped with good quality lower offs.
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fragmented | {FR} 6c | 20m | |||||
| 2 | Finishing Off | {FR} 6b+ | 20m | |||||
| 3 | Spectophotometry | E2 5c | 20m | |||||
| 4 | ★★ 50 Bolts to the Gallon | 6a | 20m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Like Ice Like Fire
Look for a handy borehole around the midsection. Around the third bolt there is a large loose flake on the left, so climb on the right to avoid this. | 6a | 20m | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Galening Crack
Very nice trad pitch. Bring some medium-sized nuts and either top out or use the lower off. | HVS 5a | 20m | |||||
| 7 |
Compromise
Shares lower-off with the adjacent 6a+ route. Protection is somewhat hard to find. | E2 5b | 16m | |||||
| 8 | Promises | 6a+ | 16m | |||||
| 9 | The Rottin' Word | 6c | 20m | |||||
| 10 | Decaydence | 6c | 20m | |||||
| 11 |
A Right Earful
Hard finish and tricky corner leading to easy rest | {FR} 6a+ | 15m | |||||
| 12 | Clean Your Mouth Out | {FR} 6c+ | 20m | |||||
| 13 | The Dust Bunnies | {FR} 7a | 20m | |||||
| 14 | ★ Dalken Shield | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 15 | ★ Hardcore! You know the Score | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||||
| 16 | ★ The Directors Cut | {FR} 6b | 18m | |||||
| 17 | Blade Runner | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
| 18 | Bruce's Bonus | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 19 | Androids Direct | E1 5b | 20m | |||||
| 20 | ★ Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep | E1 5b | 20m | |||||
| 21 | ★ Rage | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 22 | The Running Man | 6b | 20m | |||||
1.8. Toilet sector 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281083, -1.686914
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Long Walk | {FR} 6c | 16m | |||
| 2 | The Dark Tower | {FR} 6b+ | 16m | |||
| 3 | The Drawing of the Tree | {FR} 6b+ | 16m | |||
| 4 | ★ Willie the Kid | {FR} 6a+ | 16m | |||
| 5 | Calamity Jane | {FR} 6b+ | 16m | |||
| 6 | ★ Jeff Garrett | {FR} 6a+ | 16m | |||
| 7 | The Dogs | {FR} 6b | 16m | |||
| 8 | ★ Derailed | {FR} 6a+ | 15m | |||
| 9 | ★ Passage of Time | {FR} 6b | 15m | |||
| 10 | The Sewer | {FR} 6a+ | 16m | |||
| 11 | ★ Latrine | {FR} 5 | 16m | |||
| 12 | ★ Armitage | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 13 | Shanks | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 14 | Potty | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 15 | Psycho Ceramic | {FR} 6a+ | 16m | |||
| 16 | ★ The Bog | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 17 | Twyfords | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 18 | ★ The Small Room | {FR} 6a+ | 16m | |||
| 19 | ★ Thomas Crapper | {FR} 6a | 16m | |||
| 20 | Two Loos | {FR} 4+ | 16m | |||
| 21 | ★ Montezuma's Revenge | {FR} 6b | 16m | |||
| 22 | ★ Latec | {FR} 5 | 20m | |||
| 23 | Toilet Graffiti | 5+ | 14m | |||
| 24 | Toilet Humour | 5 | 14m | |||
| 25 | De Throne | 5 | 14m | |||
| 26 | ★ On Uranus | {FR} 6a | 14m | |||
| 27 | Eau de Toilette | {FR} 6a | 12m | |||
| 28 | Andrex | {FR} 6b | 12m | |||
| 29 |
Easy Come, Easy Go
Belaying safely will be more difficult than climbing the route. | {FR} 3 | 10m | |||
1.9. Upper Tier 78 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281801, -1.688548
1.9.1. Upper tier 60 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281691, -1.687225
Resumen
The second tier on the right.
descripción
Very sunny and dry, but some of the corner routes stay in the shade until midday.
Acceso
Walk up the slope on the right just before you enter the main quarry.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Elizabethville | 6a | 8m | |||
| 2 | Burundi | 6b | 8m | |||
| 3 | Townships | 6c+ | 8m | |||
| 4 | Victoria Falls | 6b | 10m | |||
| 5 | Kariba | 6a+ | 10m | |||
| 6 | Zanzibar | 6b | 10m | |||
| 7 | Simonstone | 6c+ | 10m | |||
| 8 | Ring Thane | 6c+ | 12m | |||
| 9 | Pretoria | 6b+ | 12m | |||
| 10 | Mombassa | 6a | 12m | |||
| 11 | Greenpeace | 6a | 12m | |||
| 12 | Bird Island (p2) | 6a | 12m | |||
| 13 | Brew Thyme | 6a | 12m | |||
| 14 | Thyme Out | 6a | 12m | |||
| 15 | What's the Thyme | 6a | 12m | |||
| 16 | Bridge Over the River Thyme | 5a | 12m | |||
| 17 | Bit of a Spare Thyme | 5c | 12m | |||
| 18 | Fat Betty | 4c | 12m | |||
| 19 | Take Your Thyme | 5b | 12m | |||
| 20 | Porridge | 4c | 12m | |||
| 21 | Crunch yer Nuts | 4b | 12m | |||
| 22 | Soggy Bottom Boys | 6b | 12m | |||
| 23 | Man of Constant Sorrow | 5c | 12m | |||
| 24 | Big Rock Candy Mountain | 6a | 12m | |||
| 25 | Everett's Arete | 5c | 10m | |||
| 26 | Repulse | 5a | 10m | |||
| 27 | Prince of Wales | 5c | 10m | |||
| 28 | ★ The Old DA Look | 4a | 10m | |||
| 29 | ★ FOP | 6a | 12m | |||
| 30 | ★ Mr Blue SKy | 7a | 14m | |||
| 31 | No way is Patience a Virtue | 6b | 14m | |||
| 32 |
While the Cat's Away
Wroth seeking out, an interesting climb on good rock. Stays in the shade until 12 am. | 6a | 14m | |||
| 33 | Dapper Dan | 6a | 15m | |||
| 34 | ★ Babe the Blue Axe | 6a | 15m | |||
| 35 | The Cretan | 6b+ | 13m | |||
| 36 | Corinthian Spirit | 5c | 14m | |||
| 37 | Theseus-Saurus | 6b+ | 14m | |||
| 38 | It's all Greek To me | 6b | 14m | |||
| 39 | The Miner Tour | 6c+ | 14m | |||
| 40 | Olympiakus | 6c | 14m | |||
| 41 | Riser | 5a | 13m | |||
| 42 | Into the Labyrinth | 6a | 13m | |||
| 43 | By Zeus | 6a+ | 14m | |||
| 44 | ★ Spiteful Rain | 5c | 14m | |||
| 45 | Second Prize/Commiseration | 5c | 14m | |||
| 46 | Consolation | 5c | 14m | |||
| 47 | Tawny Owl Pie | 5a | 14m | |||
| 48 |
★ The Owl
High crux, but reasonable. | 6c | 14m | |||
| 49 | White Dove | E1 5b | 14m | |||
| 50 | Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera | 6c+ | 14m | |||
| 51 |
★★ Supplementary Questions
Good 3D climbing in the groove. | 5a | 14m | |||
| 52 |
★ Liberal Smear
The crux is to clip the last bolt and then reach the lower-off. Finish either left or right with tricky moves. | 6c | 14m | |||
| 53 | No Flair Blair | E3 5c | 14m | |||
| 54 | Labour Relations | 6c+ | 14m | |||
| 55 | Avoiding the Issue | E4 6b | 14m | |||
| 56 | P.M's Question TIme | E3 6a | 14m | |||
| 57 | Booker Prize | 6a+ | 14m | |||
| 58 | Sir Pryse | 6a+ | 14m | |||
| 59 | Take it Easy | 6b | 14m | |||
| 60 | Oy Missus | 6c+ | 14m | |||
1.9.2. Top Quarry 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 53.281764, -1.690734
Resumen
Good sector for begginers, short and easy routes
Acceso
Top level to the left
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | A Tracky Little Problem | {FR} 4a | ||||
| 2 | Tracker Bar | {FR} 5c | ||||
| 3 | A Tracky Little Bleeder | {FR} 5a | ||||
| 4 | Mickey | {FR} 3a | ||||
| 5 | Minnie | {FR} 3a | ||||
| 6 | Daffy | {FR} 4a | ||||
| 7 | Goofy | {FR} 3c | ||||
| 8 | Donald | {FR} 3b | ||||
| 9 | Pluto | {FR} 3b | ||||
| 10 | ★ Gargle Baster | {FR} 5c | 7m | |||
| 11 | ★ Uranus | {FR} 3c | 7m | |||
| 12 |
Luke Skywalker
1 star | {FR} 4a | 7m | |||
| 13 | Klingon | {FR} 4a | 7m | |||
| 14 | Saturn's Rings | {FR} 4c | ||||
| 15 |
★ Vogon
1 reachy move | {FR} 6a | 7m | |||
| 16 |
★ Dr.Who?
1 star, technical | {FR} 6a | 7m | |||
| 17 | Torchwood | {FR} 5c | ||||
| 18 | Beam me Across Scotty! | {FR} 5a | ||||
