Vías en South-West England para grado seleccionado

Follow the furthest left-hand line of pegs in Avon gorge.

1. 6a, 27m.

2. 6a, 25m

An enjoyable appendage to the climbs on the Unknown Wall. The crux arête is avoidable so only warrents the grade if adhering to the true line. Possibly better done in one long pitch.

1. 6a, 27m. Men of the World pitch 1

2. 6a, 27m. Traverse right from the belay passing the line of pegs then step down slightly to hand traverse right along the good break. Up above the break and just before the corner of Urban Gorilla, is a shot hole. Reach up for this then using good layaways and holds, swing directly up the bulging wall until stopped by the blank white wall above. Tip toe leftwards and clip the peg on Blik. Taking a disciplined approach to avoid the temptation of using the Blik crack, climb the left arête of the white wall directly above the peg until emerging into the corner. Move up the corner, clipping the peg on the left before swinging up right to sensationally pull over the widest part of the overhang.

1. 6a, 42m.

2. 6a, 20m.

Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mould of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious looking flake.

1. 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.

2. 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.

3. 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges.

1. 5c/6a, 27m.

2. 5c, 20m.

3. 6a, 20m.

1. 5c/6a, 25m.

2. 6a, 40m.

The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large corner at the base of the face.

1. 6a, 18m. Move up to and climb a thin crack and wall to a bolt. Pass the bolt leftwards via some fingery moves to a thin horizontal break. Traverse left with difficulty and move up a tiny corner to a good crack, then climb up it to the next set of ledges. Move left to a belay on the arete as for New Horizons.

2. 5c, 20m. Move back right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Continue in the same line up a little corner, peg, to a prominent peg on the right. Climb past the peg to a lighter band of rock and a peg on the left below a small white corner. Climb the wall right of the white corner, past a peg, to the top.

1. 6a, 30m.

2. 5c, 12m.

1. 6a, 33m.

2. 5a, 10m.

An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. High in the grade. Start at a blank section of wall 7m right of the long corner groove of M1. Make some bouldery moves up the initial wall before moving left and climbing a corner/groove to a break and two pegs. Make bold moves rightwards up the wall to a ledge. From a short crack on the left, move up left to pockets that lead to a concrete block. Move right to a narrow groove and climb this and the wall above with difficulty past a pocket and bolt on the left to better finishing holds that lead to the ramp.

Easy slab to funky groove climbing where a new staple protects. Escape rightwards after clipping old bolt for 2nd.

E4 without the bolt The route now has a lower bolt so is a clip up

A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp. Traverse left for 3m along the break to a tiny ledge. Climb slightly rightwards up the wall, past 2 pegs, to good nuts in the cracks above. Move up leftwards with difficulty to the base of an open groove and a peg on the right and proceed up the groove to where it fades. Finish up the fingery final wall passing a peg.

E5 if hidden wire found.

An upper wall testpiece that features a well-protected crux. Start at a right-leaning crack, the base of which disappears into a hole in the ramp. Follow the crack pleasantly to a hand-ledge. Continue more steeply to where it thins, and make a couple of urgent pulls up the wall just left of the crack to an easy finish up a tiny corner.

A really tight eliminate between Rancho Cucamonga and Banshee, finishing to the right of that pitch. Climb the fingery wall using the edges of crystally pockets and (carefully) brittle sidepulls on the left until a final long move gains jugs and the peg with the maillon. From the break on Banshee (more gear) climb to the right of the parent route via a thin move and a good crimp in the middle of some black stuff and finish direct.

Certainly climbed previously. At the bottom of the ramp, right hand on obvious hold, left hand on a couple of savage crystals, right foot on slopey break. Dyno to catch a tricky drag on the top and hump out the slanted mantle.

A borehole to the right of the top pitch of Banshee is the line. Climb it with left facing layback. Committing.

Steeper lower arête leads to slab with slim crack. Feels bold as gear (Friend 3.5) is hidden out of view.

The sheer black slab to the right of God Save the Queen. Use tiny sharp holds to get to the ledge. Swing left and use a big side pull to get up on to the ledge

The steep wall to the left of JCB

1. 5a, 20m.

2. 6a, 20m.

3. 4a, 12m.

1. 5a, 9m.

2. 6a, 24m.

3. 4a, 20m.

1. E1 5a, 12m. Hugh's Groove

2. E4 6a 15m. Bisector Wall

3. E3 5b 25m. The Exterminating Angel

Pitch 2 of The Featherless Biped.

1. 5c, 12m.

2. 6a 35m.

A fine, sustained and safe pitch on good rock. Starting mid way along Gronk traverse at the 2 peg belay. Pull over the small roof on good holds, bolt. Two more bolts lead to a very hard sequence and another bolt. Easier climbing leads to 2 pegs and finish just left of the protruding ledge. The climb now has 4 new bolts in the lower section.

start above a bush, 6 metres left of arete on the left on graffiti'd wall

Head height sloping hand marks the start, 4m left of the arete on the far left on graffiti'd wall

use crimps left from 'one for the road' to dyno up right for a v-nick.

Dyno

The short, sharp arête to the right of Jumping Carrots. Peg in the thin break. Join and finish up (or down) Jumping Carrots.

The top peg and top 8mm bolt have both been replaced with new 12mm stainless bolts. There is also a new double-ring abseil.b This has been retro bolted on a slightly different line.

next line of bolts 10m right of Bitter and Twisted.

Improbable and well protected climbing that finds an accessible path through an intimidating neighbourhood. Climb the easy wide, white groove past a couple of old pegs to a small foot-ledge (bolt above). Step across to the left and move up with difficulty past a bolt runner to a resting place under the jagged overhang (8mm bolt and handy wire placement). Follow the series of blocks steeply up leftwards past a bolt runner to reach good handholds and a peg (with in-situ sling). With added protection from wires and cams continue much more easily up into the scoop above to reach a deep slot and finish with a hard reach past a bolt runner to a replacement double ring abseil station.

Re-cleaned and re-equipped 2012. An extra bolt added just below the abseil station.

An eliminate baldish entry into Stammheim

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 6a, 25m.

An intimidating pitch featuring both delicate and strenuous climbing. Start at the peg and nut belay of Krapp's Last Tape. Climb up rightwards past a peg and up a shallow corner to an overhang, pegs. Pull over the overhang at a tiny corner, 2 pegs, and continue to a bolt. Steep climbing through the overhangs above on reasonable holds gains a break and bolt above. Head up to a shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station.

A high quality climb on very good rock, with a lot of fixed protection. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line. From the left-hand side of the ledge, climb boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs which may be missing. Move up to a peg in the wall above and traverse left to a small corner which leads to a hole, thread, peg and good nut. Move up to the overhang above, peg, and make a difficult move to get established above it, peg. Climb the weakness above to the shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station.

1. 6a, 40m.

2. 5a, 25m.

1. 6a, 35m.

2. 5c, 30m.

1. 5c, 30m.

2. 6a, 35m.

1. 6a, 20m.

2. 5c, 35m.

1. 6a, 27m.

2. 5b, 15m.

3. 5b, 25m.

Quarried perfection. Sustained and intricate climbing with good protection and rock. Start on Breakfast Ledge.

1. 6a, 30m. Follow Lich Gates to its second (poor) peg and step up left to below a small overhang. Good nuts in a short crack down to its left. Move up over the overhang, 2 pegs, and then climb a flared groove below a pink wall, peg on left, rightwards to a difficult exit, 2 pegs, and a rest on the right. Traverse the fingery break left, 2 pegs, to a bolted stance.

2. 6a, 25m. Climb up the wall on the right, peg out left and a bolt on the right, to a groove and 2 pegs. Follow the groove to a left-trending break and move left, peg, and up into a small overhang capped corner/groove, peg. At the overhang go left, peg, and pull over the overhang to finish.

1. 6a, 25m.

2. 5c, 20m.

3. Easy, 12m.

1. 5c, 27m.

2. 6a, 20m.

3. 5c, 15m.

Ascend just right of the sign on the 'bog wall' starting with a left hand pocket and right hand crimp. Bump up your right hand to another crimp and dyno to the top!