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East Wall

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Restricciones heredado de Lover's Leap

For all access issues, please contact CRAGS, the local affiliate of the Access Fund.

As of 2020 CRAGS is running a major multi-year stewardship project to help address the significant impacts this classic area has faced, from decades of high levels of climber traffic. If you have or plan on climbing here and are able to donate either money or time, your contributions will be greatly appreciated!

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Grado Vía

A great first pitch, and easier, but still very pleasant pitches above.

  1. 50m (5.7) Up the obvious crack (which is mostly easier than it looks) to belay on the obvious big ledge (keep some mid-size cams). Can be split into two (or even three) pitches.

  2. 50m (5.6) Hardish move to gain face, clip bolt out right, then up as you will to a natural belay wherever you like.

  3. 30m (4th class) Up as you will to the top.

Optional third pitch is 4th class. Fixed anchor above second pitch.

PAL: T.M. Herbert & Bob Kamps, 1969

1 5.6 140 ft
2 5.8 110 ft
3 5.6 165 ft

Belay from natural anchors.

PAL: Ken Edsburg, T.M. Herbert & Jerry Sublette, 1965

Alternative first pitch to the remaining 2 pitches of Haystack.

PAL: M. Haymond & Jim Hicks, 1969

Belay from fixed anchors.

PAL: Royal Robbins & Ken Wilson, 1973

Fixed anchor above first pitch. Natural anchors for remaining pitches.

PA: Mike Covington & Dick Erb, 1969

PAL: Jim Orey & F. Van Overbeck, 1972

In the center of East Wall is an obvious arch, rising up from the base of the cliff and curving rightwards. East Crack goes up the 2nd crack line right of the right-end of the arch.

  1. 5.7, 160ft. Climb the crack, past a bulge and then upwards until a ledge/stance appears up and left of the crack. Belay. (small gear)

  2. 5.8, 120ft. Step back right from the belay to the crack, and follow the left crack line upwards at the large flakes. Pull over two or three bulges (5.8 cruxes), then up the crack a bit further, then move right to the ledge system where this route, "Bear's Reach" and "East Wall" converge. Belay high and left on the shared ledge, if there's crowding (common).

  3. 5.7 (crux only), 120ft. Step right from the belay and head up the obviously highly-trafficed and a bit polished crack. Pull the 5.7 crux roof, and then reach the 3rd class ledge. Place a piece (to protect the 2nd) then traverse right until you find a comfortable belay. Generally better to belay on the ledge, rather than over the top. to ease communication and rope drag.

PAL: T.M. Herbert & Gordon Webster, 1966

1 5.7 R 120 ft
2 5.7 120 ft
3 5.7 120 ft

PAL: Phil Berry & Robin Linnett, 1956

1 5.9 150ft
2 5.9 120ft
3 5.8 50ft

When looking at the East Wall, this is the obvious, nearly straight up and down, bottom-to-top crack line. When you see it, you know it. Climb the crack. Keep climbing it.

This is a 2-pitch climb. You will need a 60 meter rope.

The first pitch of this climb begins with an obvious crack heading up and slightly right. The crack breaks into two about 100 feet up, take the right crack. Shortly after the split, it becomes impossible to find gear placement, but don't worry, you run up this to an 8' wide by 30' long shelf which serves as your belay station.

On the second pitch, located on the far left side (looking at the face) of the shelf, the climbing starts easy and turns into a not so pleasant offwidth crack that about half your body fits into. Although you can't place gear through this section, its a secure climb. Once past this, its a run-up to the top where you can belay off of a tree.

Thin crack traverses right into East Corner.

¿Lo sabías?

¿Sabías que puedes crear una cuenta para registrar, monitorizar y compartir tus ascensiones? Hay miles de escaladores y escaladoras que lo hacen.

Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Chris McNamara

Fecha: 2004

número ISBN: 9780967239170

SuperTopo:
Focusing on top-rope, crags and multi-pitches in the 5.7 to 5.11 range, South Lake Tahoe Climbing is your guide to more than 250 of the best routes in the region.

Autor(es): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Fecha: 2022

número ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Autor(es): Toby Evans

Fecha: 2021

número ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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