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Table of contents
- 1.
Rose Ledge
207 in Crag
-
1.1.
Lower Tier 194 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Introductory Buttress 13 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. Rook Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.1.3. Main Wall / Main Face 32 in Sector
- 1.1.4. Overhang Buttress 11 in Sector
- 1.1.5. Chumbo Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.6. Amphitheater / Short Wall 24 in Sector
- 1.1.7. French King Buttress 28 in Sector
- 1.1.8. The Slab 7 in Sector
- 1.1.9. Buoux Buttress 22 in Sector
- 1.1.10. Pendulum Buttress 21 in Sector
- 1.1.11. Lost in the Woods Buttress 21 in Sector
- 1.1.12. The Aviary 2 in Area
- 1.1.13. Purple Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.14. Guillotine Roof 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.15. The Bishop 1 in Boulder
- 1.1.16. Pawn Boulder 2 in Boulder
-
1.2.
Upper Tier 13 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Pancake Buttress 2 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Central Buttress 2 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Long Buttress 9 in Sector
-
1.1.
Lower Tier 194 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rose Ledge 207 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope, Escalada clásica y otros estilos
Lat / Long: 42.601228, -72.460634
restricciones
The Western Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition coordinates most access issues in Western Massachusetts. Check their website for access information.
1.1. Lower Tier 194 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope, Escalada clásica y otros estilos
Lat / Long: 42.600557, -72.459937
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 17 | Deadpoint | V1 | 10ft | |||
| 18 | Snake Eyes | V2 | 10ft | |||
1.1.1. Introductory Buttress 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope y Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 42.601695, -72.461789
Acceso
Introductory Buttress is the first sector reached along the Lower Ledges Trail.
 /e3/96/e3963e396633d20a57c16fe48d155ef9aa3fe466) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fat Flake | 5.6 | ||||||
| 2 | Flakeless | 5.8 | ||||||
| 3 |
Direct Start
Flakeless variation. | 5.9 | ||||||
| 4 | Orientation | 5.9 | ||||||
| 5 | ★ Greeting Crack | 5.4 | 39ft | |||||
| 6 |
Undercut Arête
Greeting Crack variation. | 5.10a | ||||||
/82/56/8256079fca72f288c6162071531ff7092c82581e)   |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 | Red Wall | 5.11- | ||||||
| 8 |
Red Wall Variation
Start up 'Hampshire Corner', then finish on 'Red Wall' | 5.8 | ||||||
| 9 |
★ Hampshire Corner
Pro to 3". | 5.7 | 25ft | |||||
| 10 | Div. 3 | 5.9 | ||||||
|
Further right, after a break in the climbable portion of the cliff | ||||||||
| 12 | Lonely Crack | 5.8 | ||||||
| 13 | The Niche | 5.9 | ||||||
| 14 | The Neb | 5.10 | ||||||
1.1.2. Rook Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
Acceso
Just off the trail, at the right end of 'Introductory Buttress'.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rook | V5 | 13ft | |||||
| 2 | Rook Direct | V4 | 10ft | |||||
1.1.3. Main Wall 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope y Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 42.601187, -72.461049
Acceso
The Main Wall is the second sector that appears when walking in along the Lower Ledge Trail. It has convenient access to the top: there is a staircase at the right end.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Fun Crack / Fist Fight
PAL: | 5.9 | 20ft | |||||
| 2 |
The Chimney
Chimney around the corner left of the majority of the Main Wall. There is a large tree across the top to set a top row. | 5.5 | 30ft | |||||
| 3 |
Access Chimney
Set up a top rope above the access chimney behind the main wall. | 5.6 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 4 | Twisted | 5.9 | ||||||
| 5 | Kathy's Challenge | 5.10+ | ||||||
| 6 | Leaning Arête | 5.12 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ Delaney's Arête
PAL: Brian Delaney | 5.11+ PG13 | 40ft | |||||
| 8 |
Eleven Something
Delaney's Arête variation. | 5.11 | 40ft | |||||
| 9 |
High Energy Plan
PAL: Mike Heintz | 5.12b | 39ft | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Solar Flare
PA: Brian Delaney, Mark Delaney, Steve Jones, Corey Jones & Romain Vogeler PAL: Eric Sutton | 5.11 PG13 | 40ft | |||||
| 11 |
On the Beach
Solar Flare variation. | 5.11 | 40ft | |||||
| 12 |
Pockmarks
Solar Flare variation. | 5.11 | 40ft | |||||
| 13 |
Independent Start
Solar Flare variation. | 5.9 | 40ft | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Tennessee Flake / Tennessee
Height-dependent crux can force 5.10 or 5.11 moves for short climbers. Usually top-roped. Bolted top anchor. This was named 'Tennessee Flake' for a particular flake that has since fallen off, creating the current crux. Before the flake fell off, Tennessee was rated 5.7. PAL: Brian Delaney, Mark Delaney, Steve Jones, Corey Jones & Romain Vogeler | 5.10a | 46ft | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Tennessee Variation
Climb the face to the right of the original crux. | 5.11 | 40ft | |||||
| 16 | Total Eclipse | 5.11+ | 40ft | |||||
| 17 |
Lunar Eclipse
Total Eclipse variation. | 5.10- | 40ft | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Marie Antoinette
2 bolt top anchor. | 5.10- | 40ft | |||||
| 19 | ★★ Guillotine / Double Overhead Cam | 5.8 | 40ft | |||||
| 20 | Primrose Arête | 5.11+ | 40ft | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Widowmaker / Leave it to Beaver
PAL: Alan Bressler, 1976 | 5.10c | 40ft | |||||
| 22 | Creation | 5.12- | 40ft | |||||
| 23 |
Creation Science
Creation variation. PAL: Dan Mahoney, Will Caitlin & Dave Callahan | 5.1 | 40ft | |||||
| 24 |
Evolution
Creation variation. | 5.10+ | 40ft | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Double Helix / Rikert's Corner
2 bolt anchor PAL: Dave Rikert | 5.9 | 40ft | |||||
| 26 | Pumper Pillar | 5.11d | 40ft | |||||
| 27 |
★ Off Width / Stetson Stumble
Pro to 6". No pro for the first 20'. | 5.8 | 35ft | |||||
| 28 |
Fight Club / Transmogrifier
PAL: Mike Heintz | 5.12 | 35ft | |||||
| 29 | Knockin' on 11's Door | 5.12 | 35ft | |||||
| 30 | Jehovah's Gun Cream | 5.10+ | 35ft | |||||
/42/89/4289361f7058bfa8056cc97c40ec302b6eeb8409) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 31 | Beginners / Beginner's Corner | 5.5 | 35ft | |||||
| 32 | ★ Easy / Beginner's Buttress | 5.4 | 30ft | |||||
1.1.4. Overhang Buttress 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada en tope rope
Lat / Long: 42.601017, -72.460736
Acceso
On the right end of 'Main Wall', separated by a staircase that provides access to the top of the cliff.
/79/63/7963b56673c8df4681f32c3b64be1baddde796ed) /c5/4d/c54d896a5345c07728bec99b93a99a8c3917947f) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Sideline / Sideline Arête | 5.8 | 30ft | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Tigerwalk | 5.9 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★★ Lunge Roof / The Lunge / Gunks Roof / Rhino Dyno
Usually top-roped from bolted top anchor. PAL: Brian Delaney, Mark Delaney, Steve Jones, Corey Jones & Romain Vogeler | 5.10-/10 R | 40ft | |||||
| 4 |
White Myron
PAL: Dan Mahoney, Will Caitlin & Dave Callahan | 5.12 | ||||||
| 5 | Super Nova | 5.12 | ||||||
| 6 | Pinocchio | 5.10 | ||||||
| 7 | Pinocchio Variation 1 | 5.10+ | ||||||
| 8 | Pinocchio Variation 2 | 5.11- | ||||||
| 9 | Flexor Fire | 5.10 | ||||||
| 10 | Unnamed | 5.8 | ||||||
| 11 | Cool Whip | 5.10+ | ||||||
1.1.5. Chumbo Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
Acceso
Near 'Overhang Buttress'
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The Lip
Traverse the rising lip on the boulder, left to right. | V2 | 15ft | |||||
| 2 |
Pommel Horse
Climb the face left of the seam. | V3 | 10ft | |||||
| 3 |
Chumbo Love
Climb the face right of the seam. | V3/4 | 13ft | |||||
| 4 |
Chumbo Arête
Climb the steep arete on jugs. | V2 | ||||||
1.1.6. Amphitheater 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope y Escalada clásica
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Unnamed | 5.3 | ||||||
| 2 | Stipe End | 5.10 | ||||||
| 3 | Morning Delight | 5.9 | ||||||
| 4 | Morning Delight Variation | 5.10d | ||||||
| 5 | Look Sharp | 5.11d | ||||||
| 6 |
Exploding Crystals Ripped My Flesh Apart
PAL: Dan Mahoney, Will Caitlin & Dave Callahan | 5.11d | ||||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 | Spring Training | 5.11d | ||||||
| 8 |
Lockout
Spring Training variation. | 5.11- | ||||||
| 9 | Incipia | 5.11 | ||||||
| 10 | Technopop | 5.11- | ||||||
| 11 | Unseamly Tactics | 5.12- | ||||||
| 12 | P. V. T. A. | 5.6/7 | 35ft | |||||
| 13 | PVTA Variation | 5.11+ | ||||||
| 14 | Playland | 5.6 | ||||||
| 15 | Playland - direct finish | 5.8 | ||||||
| 16 | Powerfinger | 5.11+ | ||||||
| 17 | Powerfinger Variation | 5.9 | ||||||
| 18 | Pigpen | 5.9 | ||||||
| 19 | Tree Flake | 5.6 | ||||||
| 20 | Yvette's Climb | 5.10 | ||||||
| 21 | Tendon Death | 5.11d | ||||||
| 22 | Camp Corner | 5.5 | ||||||
| 23 | Maternal Instinct | 5.11+ | ||||||
| 24 | Lip Trip | 5.12 | ||||||
1.1.7. French King Buttress 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope, Escalada clásica y Escalada en roca
Lat / Long: 42.600424, -72.459786
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Under the Weather | 5.11 | ||||
| 2 | Dyno-Mite | 5.11 | ||||
| 3 | Plunging Digits | 5.10 | ||||
| 4 | Dad's Dangle | 5.11+ | ||||
| 5 | False Arête | 5.10 | ||||
| 6 | Left Pitchfork Crack | 5.10a | ||||
| 7 | ★ Center Pitchfork Crack / Devil's Pitchfork | 5.9 | ||||
| 8 | Center Pitchfork Crack Variation | 5.10 | ||||
| 9 | Right Pitchfork Crack | 5.8 | ||||
| 10 | Right Pitchfork Crack Variation 2 | 5.11 | ||||
| 11 | Right Pitchfork Crack Variation 1 | 5.10 | ||||
| 12 | Concave Wall | 5.11 | ||||
| 13 | Concave Wall Variation | 5.11 | ||||
| 14 | Rosebowl | 5.11+ | ||||
| 15 | Rosebuds | 5.11 | ||||
| 16 |
Thorns
Rosebuds variation. | 5.11+ | ||||
| 17 | Channel Z | 5.11 | ||||
| 18 | ★ Weird Corner | 5.7 | ||||
| 19 | French King Arête | 5.11 | ||||
| 20 | Working Men Get Pissed | 5.11 | ||||
| 21 | Erosion Groove | 5.7 | ||||
| 22 | Erosion Groove Variation | |||||
| 23 | Joe Brown Special | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
| 24 | ★★ Tale of Two Cities / Whoops | 5.10+ | 35ft | |||
| 25 | Tale of Two Cities Variation | 5.10+ | ||||
| 26 |
Second City
Tale of Two Cities variation. | 5.9 | ||||
| 27 | Two Step #1 | |||||
| 28 | Two Step #2 | |||||
1.1.8. The Slab 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada en tope rope
Lat / Long: 42.600245, -72.459300
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Roundhouse | 5.10 | ||||
| 2 | The Name of the Rose | 5.11d | ||||
| 3 |
★★★ Children of Israel
PAL: Adrian Juncosa, Al Rubin & Sam Streibert PAL: Mike Heintz | 5.10+ | ||||
| 4 |
Children of Israel Variation
Direct finish. | |||||
| 5 | French Connection | 5.11 | ||||
| 6 | Sons of Italy | 5.11+ | ||||
| 7 | El Private | 5.9 | ||||
1.1.9. Buoux Buttress 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope y Escalada clásica
Lat / Long: 42.600070, -72.458785
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ King Phillip's Face | 5.8 | 30ft | |||||
| 2 |
Botanist's Buttress
PAL: Adrian Juncosa, Al Rubin & Sam Streibert | 5.9 | ||||||
| 3 | Rusty Wall | 5.10a | ||||||
| 4 | Waiting Game | 5.10+ | ||||||
/2b/29/2b296cff2df14207ea8c838cb110992e37177124) /5d/cd/5dcde547e0af02aa3f2c50e5cb9d870ecb95c792) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 5 | Half Twin Crack | 5.9 | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Right Twin Crack
Pro to 2.5". | 5.8 | 30ft | |||||
| 7 | Long Stem Rose | 5.11+ | ||||||
| 8 | Rosy Cruise of Friction | 5.11 | ||||||
| 9 | Jam-Boree | 5.7 | ||||||
| 10 | Beam Me Up Scotty | 5.10 | ||||||
| 11 | Les Petites Cannellures | 5.10 | ||||||
| 12 | Rose Garden | 5.10 | ||||||
/31/07/31071eaa6819301095dc872267aab246da95a0df) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 13 | ★★ Straight Crack | 5.8 | ||||||
| 14 | ★★★ Trundle Corner | 5.7 | ||||||
| 15 |
Beat the Clock
PAL: Ward Smith | 5.12 | ||||||
| 16 | Fern Crack | 5.11 | ||||||
| 17 |
Rosetta Stone
PAL: Wayne Burleson | 5.13a | ||||||
| 18 |
★★ Partners in Climb
PAL: Steve Angelini PAL: Wayne Burleson | 5.11 | ||||||
/9d/a2/9da2d4d338f437c598edb2ecbffd963f543cdb2e) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 19 | Partners in Climb Variation | 5.10 | ||||||
| 20 |
★ Indian Summer Arête
Two bolt top anchor. PAL: Adrian Juncosa, Al Rubin & Sam Streibert, 1984 | 5.9 | 40ft | |||||
| 21 | Indian Summer Arête Variation 1 | 5.10 | 40ft | |||||
| 22 | Indian Summer Arête Variation 2 | 5.12 | 40ft | |||||
1.1.10. Pendulum Buttress 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada en tope rope
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Rose Rash
Bolted top anchor. | 5.10a | 40ft | |||||
| 2 | Rose and Shine | 5.11 | ||||||
| 3 | Hyperextension | 5.11 | ||||||
| 4 | Hyperextension Variation | 5.9 | ||||||
| 5 |
Slug Fest
Hyperextension variation. | 5.11 | ||||||
| 6 | Flake Dance | 5.9 | ||||||
| 7 | Finger Dance | 5.10+ | ||||||
/53/15/5315cb017bd9eb467ac216ac0bcde93d3468c6db) |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 | ★★★ Pendulum / Ben's Boot | 5.8 | 40ft | |||||
| 9 | Pendulum Variation | 5.10- | ||||||
| 10 | Nothing Serious | 5.11+ | ||||||
| 11 | Easier Said Arête | 5.8 | ||||||
| 12 | Easier Said Arête Variation | 5.6 | ||||||
| 13 | Faith in Friction | 5.6 | ||||||
| 14 | Chockstone Gully | 5.2 | ||||||
| 15 | Gunk Buckets | 5.4 | ||||||
| 16 | Please Be Seated | 5.10+ | ||||||
| 17 | Jug Walk | 5.4 | ||||||
| 18 | Easy Street | 5.3 | ||||||
| 19 | Rosehips | 5.10 | ||||||
| 20 | Double Prow | 5.9 | ||||||
| 21 | Walkabout | 5.7 | ||||||
1.1.11. Lost in the Woods Buttress 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada en tope rope
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sizzler | 5.6 | ||||
| 2 |
Sizzler Arête
Sizzler variation. | 5.8 | ||||
| 3 | Pollywog Wiggle | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 | Get a Leg Up | 5.10- | ||||
| 5 | Short Struggle | 5.8 | ||||
| 6 | See You Around | 5.10+ | ||||
| 7 | Gneiss Try! | 5.6 | ||||
| 8 | B and B Funk Machine | 5.8 | ||||
| 9 | Ryan-Stone Cowboy | 5.7 | ||||
| 10 | Cold River Rumble | 5.7 | ||||
| 11 | No More Mr. Gneiss Guy | 5.9 | ||||
| 12 | Little Pillar | 5.11- | ||||
| 13 | Sinuous Seam | 5.8 | ||||
| 14 | Little Bad Wolf | 5.10+ | ||||
| 15 | The Moss That Roared | 5.8 | ||||
| 16 |
Moss Direct
The Moss that Roared variation. | 5.10 | ||||
| 17 | Lost in the Woods | 5.10- | ||||
| 18 |
Lava Dome Arête
PAL: Earl Alderson | 5.10+ | ||||
| 19 | Skid Rose | 5.10 | ||||
| 20 | Mr. Hyde | 5.10+ | ||||
| 21 | Dr. Jekyll | 5.10 | ||||
1.1.12. The Aviary 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
None So Vile
PA: Nick Orange, 2016 | V10 | ||||
| 2 |
None So Vile Variation
PA: Nick Orange, 2016 | V8 | ||||
1.1.13. Purple Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Everything Is Purple
PAL: Josh Larson, 2012 | V12 | ||||
1.1.14. Guillotine Roof 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
Acceso
Uphill from 'Pawn Boulder'
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Paper Guillotine | V3 | 10ft | |||
1.1.15. The Bishop 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
Acceso
Above 'Rook Boulder'
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bishop | V2 | 10ft | |||
1.1.16. Pawn Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Todo Búlder
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pawn | V1 | 10ft | |||
| 2 | En Passant | V2 | 10ft | |||
1.2. Upper Tier 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada en tope rope
Lat / Long: 42.601147, -72.458805
1.2.1. Pancake Buttress 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada en tope rope
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Flapjack Arête | 5.8 | ||||
| 2 | World's Biggest Pancake | 5.10 | ||||
1.2.2. Central Buttress 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada en tope rope
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Let Your Fingers Do the Cranking | 5.11- | ||||
| 2 | Intifada | 5.10+ | ||||
1.2.3. Long Buttress 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Escalada en tope rope y Escalada clásica
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lean and Mean | 5.11 | ||||
| 2 | Citizen's Arête | 5.10 | ||||
| 3 | ★★ War of the Roses | 5.11+ | ||||
| 4 |
★ Summer Stroll
Pro to 4". | 5.6 | 30ft | |||
| 5 | Gridlock | 5.11d | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Rejection Slip | 5.12- | ||||
| 7 | ★★ April Flurries | 5.10 | ||||
| 8 | Grin and Bear It | 5.8 | ||||
| 9 | Final Crack | 5.7 | ||||
