Vías en South Platte

Ok...I’m only guessing the year. It’s hard to remember that far back.

Dave Dangle and I walked by the most beautiful wall, instant exposure and in the shadow of Sphinx Crack, a couple of times. Rushed up there after work and with the clock ticking we launched onto this incredibly steep face. Holds appear magically. No, we had never previewed or top-roped this face, although I later heard that it had been top-roped.

We hand Drilled ¼ inch bolts. These were few and far between…I think we drilled 4 bolts on the face, the last one was after the big hole. If you do this route you will know the hole I am talking about. It’s the huge rest stance that somehow you manage to ooze yourself into. After this hole you go up and then left onto a ramp. Leading left onto the ramp above the hole, with the last bolt distantly below and in fading sunlight was one of the most intense climbing moment I have ever had. The consequences of a fall were unthinkable, the size of the holds on the ramp unknown, and I did not think I could reverse the moves. Ahhhhhh…feel the adrenaline.

Somehow I could not understand how others reacted to this route. My good friend John Schaefer exercised better judgment and refused to take his girlfriend Carole on a 5.9 outing up the route, since I was clueless on how to grade it. Later, after Chris D. lead me up some 5.12 bolt fest on a nearby crag, I witnessed in horror when he took a slip while trying to step into the hole on Cheops. With the few bolts at that time, he almost decked.

Later the route was then retro-bolted with 3/8 inch bolts drilled which makes it a much safer climb. I am happy about the new bolts. I admit I am a communist when it comes to climbing. The rock is for all of us to enjoy, and I am glad that there are enough bolts to make this a fun climb. Please leave all the bolts in place…if you want to recreate the run-out experience, just clip every other one.

Peace to All…Steve